kgg

My take / rant: In the beginning machines were design and made for the dominate hand users, the right handed person so the hand wheel which operated all the machines of the day was placed on the right side of the machine. You got to remember back then lefties were considered to be defective. Even when schooling became popular for the masses a lot of lefties were forced to right with their right hand. Having the hand wheel there meant that the work was guided alongside the needle by the left hand. This for the right handed beginner was somewhat difficult to master where as for a leftie it was much easier process as their dominate side was the left. I guess the thought of the day was the control of the machines speed was more important then the work or was the early inventors like Singer lefties? Then came the drive systems which eliminated the need for the hand wheel to be manually controlled but by then most of the work force (right hand) were trained and use to handling stuff with their left hand. Also by then it was probably too expensive to retool the machines for mass production to take full advantage of the new drive system which would have allowed the right handed users to take full advantage of using their right hand to control the work under the needle. So in conclusion the manufactures of machines of today are as lazy as the old manufacturers and just continued the manufacturing practice which still puts the leftie at an advantage over the rightie when it comes to controlling items under the needle. Remember the first time you as a rightie used a machine with all that fumbling around by the needle. This follows the old way of thinking / manufacturing " We always done it this way and it was good enough for my grandpa." The left handed machines by all rights should be the dominate machines of today to allow the dominate right handed users to take full advantage of their machines. For those of us that are ambidextrous it really doesn't matter much. Singer 18- models 22,23 and 37 single needle Singer 18 models 25,26,27,35, and 36 double needle Singer 45w53, 18u322 and 145k kgg

You could try and take apart the motor and check and see if all the connections are good, the brush is good, the windings are good. But honestly it is probably not worth the effort as you can get a new 100 watt domestic sewing machine motor off Amazon for about $25. kgg

The cost of the laser is probably in the $15K US range, the bartacks at about $5K US each and the sewing machines at about $2K each. The costs are very reasonable. The only drawbacks I can see is not everyone is CAD capable which means investing in either training or hiring someone with those skill sets and the maintenance / repairs on the laser. The other machines can be maintained by just about any sewing machine mechanic on an as is need basis. It was nice to see that this company did invest in brand name equipment for their operation. kgg

That is good to be a nice machine when your finished doing the restoration. Always nice to see the old iron running again. kgg

Way to go. Post a couple photo's. kgg

I might have gotten OP confused with someone else's location. But the used price in US dollars for the Consew falls in roughly the 30 percent mark of a new comparable machine. While the Juki is running at about 25 percent of a new comparable machine. kgg

Decent price, $550 ( ~$430 USD). Any photo's as someone may spot something to ask about with the machines. kgg

What are they asking for the machines? kgg

Both the Juki LU562 and Consew 226 have reverse. The Juki LU562 it is a compound feed but has a small " G" bobbin whereas the Juki LU 563 would have the larger "M" bobbin. The Consew 226 if it isn't badged as "226R" is the an older version before they started to indicate that the machine had reverse. If the Consew doesn't have reverse it would be a Consew 225. If both are in the same condition I would always choose a Juki over a clone as it will be easier to get parts and to resell later on. kgg

The only one arm bandits I know of within this class of machine are: 1) Tippmann Boss at a base price of $999 US, V69 to V415 with a 794 needle and a stitch length adjustment of 4 to 16 spi ( https://tippmannindustrial.com/tippmann-boss-leather-sewing-machine/ ) 2) Cowboy Outlaw at a base price of $1395 US, V69 - V346 with a 794 needle and maximum stitch length of about 3.3 spi ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cowboy-outlaw.html ) 3) Master Tool Cub at a base price of $1950 US, V69 - V346 with a 794 needle and a stitch length adjustment of 4 to 9 spi ( https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/63500-01/master-tool-cub-manual/pr_59274/cp_/shop-now/machinery/master-tools/cub-manual-sewing-machine ) kgg

You can get a new one for $999.99 plus about $50 for shipping. I have seen items go for more then the cost of a new one at on site auctions where people have gotten into "it's mine" mindset. So it is really is going to depend on the crowd at the auction. I would set my price probably at the 40 to 50 percent mark and should the biding go above that mark I would walk away. kgg

If you notice my thread path, the tensioners were relocated and now only one is used for the top thread and the other tensioner is used for the bobbin thread. I would remove the thread tensioners and clean / smooth all the surfaces and oil them and see if that helps. You may have to just turn the tension screw counterclockwise a bit to not buy so much tension on the disc's or you may have to change or clip a bit off the length of the tensioner spring.

What I has never given me any problems is A & E thread. Which is made in both Canada and the US. A good source is WAWAK. There is the US WAWAK link: https://www.wawak.com/Thread/Thread-By-Brand/AE/ kgg

Someone was busy. You did an outstanding job on the table particularly with the alignment of the legs directly under the weight of the machine and the foot pedal arrangement is excellent. Nice compact size and on wheels to boot for moving the machine around. kgg

I agree. For me it and the price it would have to be spot on perfect. I still wouldn't be pleased particularly at the price. I did find a price from College Sewing for about £970.00 / $1275 USD / $1600. kgg

The last video has better performance then the first two but I wouldn't be satisfied with that shuttering. I would suggest you send those video's to the your local rep that recommended the setup and ask them what the problem is the Efka. If it was mine I would just repackage it and sent it back for a refund. kgg

I don't know if this helps but when I buy used machines my guideline for a brand name machine like Juki I am willing to pay up to 50 percent of the cost of a new same model machine. kgg

I do hope you do get the machine. I assume you paid for the machine the day you ordered it months ago. How long is the vendor going to let this go on before they declare it lost / stolen and ship another machine or refund your money. It seems this is happening more often these days. Most times it isn't the vendor at fault except they choose the shipper to handle the item. It doesn't seem to matter whether it is a small envelope size item or something needing a pallet. I ordered 25 meters (82 feet) of 21 oz canvas which is 60 inches wide. So it isn't a small package. The vendor had it pickup up by NationEx on Feb 8 in Montreal, Quebec who handed it off to Midland in Toronto, Ontario. who shipped it to Moncton, New Brunswick then someone figured out it needed to go back to Toronto, Ontario. It then was shipped to Ottawa, Ontario where Midland handed it off to Canex who did the final delivery to me on Feb. 17. I asked the vendor if it came with a mileage warranty. At least I did get the item where as a small envelope sized item I order from Amazon being sold by an US supplier on Feb. 17 is still on a walkabout. My main rant these days is the shipping costs. I was am looking for two single hole singer style sewing machine hinges and found them in the US for $5.10 plus shipping plus import taxes to Ontario, Canada. I decided against the purchase as the shipping cost was $16.95 US. kgg

No.. Since MtlBiker is a Canadian he should use a Loonie ($1coin) and on the other side a Toonie ($2 coin). kgg

If you have original feet finding something off the shelf is going to be a chore as trash treasure said. I think the inside pressor screw is 5/32" diameter with a 40 thread per inch and 7 mm in length. You could try i) a #8-40 screw since 5/32 is a #8 screw ii) order a screw from Sailrite and see if that works or iii) have someone re-tap the thread to a slightly larger standard thread size in either imperial or metric. kgg

What was the deciding factor to buy the Boss over the Outlaw? kgg

Yes, I'm a pure breed townie. I do like your polite reference "round da bay". kgg

Small magnet can help to remove bobbin. kgg

Yes, snow sliding is terrible on leather. It had nothing to do with the cobbler's ability or the quality of leather but the abuse of daily sliding for months on end. Where I grew up (Newfoundland) you got snow in October and it lasted usually til April or May with the occasional snow storm mid June. Yes, June. kgg

That bag but in brown was the same one the mother would buy every September from the local cobber for me to carry my books to grade school. I would get one year of enjoyment out of them as I used it as a sled for sliding down the snow hill behind the school during recess and lunch, books were optional. kgg