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About JazzBass

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  • Location
    Las Vegas, NV
  • Interests
    Music, especially REAL jazz (not "smooth" elevator music), Flying (Glider pilot), Shooting- mostly revolvers, and of course, leather crafting!

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Just learning!
  • Interested in learning about
    Carving/tooling, stitching/construction, pattern making, holsters.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    YouTube link.

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  1. Absolutely - Sometimes we sweat like we're in the gym. I personally have no problem with staining on the back side from sweat - it beats the heck out of having dye come off on clothing. The natural colored pig skin I've been using does stain, but feels great and won't bleed dye.
  2. Wonderful! The rolled edge of the deerskin over the opening of the sheath is a REALLY nice touch that I don't believe I've seen before....and done so cleanly! Beautiful!
  3. JazzBass


    Wow....and such detail on such a relatively small scale. Magnificent work, sir!!!
  4. Nice...it seems to hold its shape, despite the soft temper.
  5. OK - Which one of you are responsible for THIS? HAHAHA!!
  6. Fear not, and don't give up. My first "experiments" looked similar. My first mistake was to "practice on something cheap". No, Tandy "craft sheets" are not cheap in cost, but trust me when I say that you can get top quality, Hermann Oak tooling leather, in specified thicknesses (not offered by Tandy), from Springfield Leather, for similar prices. This alone will take leather quality/consistency out of the equation. Casing, for me, was also the most frustrating at first, as it is so subjective. I found that, relatively speaking, I want the leather damper when carving, and noticeably drier on the surface for tooling. This allows smoother, deeper cuts when carving, BUT - you MUST wait for the surface to return to near its original color, with good moisture under the surface, to see the burnishing that you want. I think your cuts are a bit narrow and shallow, probably due to casing, knife sharpness, and/or pressure. A wider "trench" to bevel will really help as you learn the beveler. JLS mentioned the 90deg mis-orientation at the bottom left. On the rest of it, and in general, the visibility of individual tool strikes, means that you're moving the tool FAR too much between strikes. You're also trying to get the bevel in a single pass...yeah, I did that too. Try this - Cut a single, straight line in a fairly damp piece. Wait till the surface dries to near its original color. Now take your beveler - make SURE that the toe is in the groove, and tap it as lightly as possible. Move the tool a QUARTER of its width, and again, tap as lightly as possible. You're creating a small shelf, that will make indexing the tool on subsequent passes MUCH easier. It's my impression (no pun intended), that you tooled too wet (no burnish), struck the beveler too hard, and moved it far too much between strikes. Believe me...the guys who can do it in a single pass and make it look smooth and easy, have been doing it for decades! You and I need to go a little deeper and a little smoother with each of several light passes.
  7. @mikesc - A belly laugh for your brilliance, and a tip my hat to a man who understands the difference between true sarcasm and infantile "snark". I have occasionally had folks who came up to me and said, "You make it look so easy!". to which I respond, " It IS easy - you just didn't get to see the 40 years of blisters that made it easy". To be "hip" enough to choose the dichotomy of Hendrix and Coltrane, then your "btw...", reminds me of the old Dean Martin Roasts, where revering the genius of of men could be done while taking all the power out of stereotypes by laughter. Ah...the good ol' days! Meanwhile, you of course made a great analogy to the leather business. You sir, are a steely-eyed missile man.
  8. Wow - methods and business positions related to repairs, all in one thread, all of them valid! It seems that we should simply draw a distinction between "repair" and "restoration/conservation". I consider repair to be maintenance for continued use. In this case, @chrisash is of course, correct - it's a completely economic decision that determines whether to repair or replace. Ah...but then, there's restoration/conservation. Here, @fredk and others have it right. It takes magnificent skills and a labor of love to do this well. Where restoration/conservation is concerned, it's going to be a situation where someone is ready and willing to pay more than the cost of a new item. I think I'll be willing to do the former, in the hopes of gaining the skills to do the latter.
  9. Since you are going to line it, (and, I assume, stitch it) the stitching all the way around will go a long way to minimize stretching overall. As to the holes, yes, there will be some stretching. Initially, it may be very stiff putting it on and taking it off, where a bit of stretch can be welcome. My next one will be 4-5oz with a very thin pigskin liner. I'll reinforce button holes only if necessary. I think two layers of 4-5 might be a bit thick, but that's personal preference, as a heavier, stiffer strap does distribute weight over a larger area (down the back, not just on the shoulder). A thick strap like that might work better with strap locks for convenience.
  10. Thank you...always learning here!
  11. I was under the impression that with what we called "oil dye" had an oil based formula for the pigment itself, and that solvents are used as the carrier. Did I have it wrong?
  12. I agree that the Pro dye is far superior to many others... Another thing to do though, is to brush your piece after drying. Pigment that does not penetrate should be removed before sealing with Resoline, Super Sheen or other waxes/oils, or you can get running or rub off from the unabsorbed pigment.
  13. What's really surprising amongst all of this, is that, for many years, a lot of people have been worried about Orwell's "1984" becoming reality, with "big brother" surveilling every aspect of our lives...BUT INSTEAD, the people have essentially decided to surveil themselves!!! Snap a selfie - "here I am at XYZ" etc etc. As a result, it is not the government per se that is functioning as the "thought police" today- it is the private sector. Back to the point of the original post - the question is, what do we actually want done about private company censorship, shadow banning, outright banning, manipulating what is actually "trending", etc. ? I am NOT one who calls for government regulation of private companies in general, even in the face of such reprehensible behavior. People voluntarily click "I agree" in the terms of service. HOWEVER ,HOWEVER, HOWEVER - These companies, through their dishonest policies, have FAR more influence on election results than any Russian plot could ever dream of. The deliberate manipulation of political speech, ads, etc., amounts to billions of equivilent dollars in the political arena. For such deliberate abuse, there absolutely should be prosecutions for violation of election laws - if a TV station refused to run a political ad due to their bias, they would be fined and possibly lose their license. There is no "license" for social media, but unless and until they CLEARLY state that all opinions contrary to theirs will not be permitted on the site, they should be shut down entirely, solely for their deliberate election interference. In the end, I'm betting that "Atlas Shrugged" will ultimately be a more prescient work than "1984", meaning that a time WILL come when those who produce, will simply refuse to play the game of the leftist collectivists who believe that they have a moral claim upon what you create.
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