nylonRigging

One knob has to be the foot pressure + / - .. and the other ( i don't have that model juki ? ) . but could be foot height Adjust ? maybe remove front cover and look to see if obvious adj. something ? or look in the manual ? that another thing is ? have you adjusted your foot stepping height at all to step easily to negotiate the higher seams . Deflection . is when your needle is punching threw multiple layer, and it will plunge going off center slightly. It makes your bottom stitch look like crap and if bad enough deflection you can strike the needle plate . that's why needle plates are sold cheap and needle are sold by box's of 100 ....LOL Keep the needle sharp, and also you might want to bump up a size maybe at least a 135x17 ( 20 ) . You might be sewing great with a thinner blade and smaller eye . But when you jumping on top a seam that is 3X thicker than what you were just sewing. -

Also Add ; I was just back sewing and something else did just pop into my head . ( slight chance? ) maybe worth checking ? , that when you raise your foot to a height to engage that large step-up . maybe ? , your Tension Disk push-Pin, is just cut a little long, and you just barely tapping it on the high lift, and loosing a bit your top thread tension setting . It Something you Maybe ? not noticing till you pushing the upper end of you Foot lift. .

that machine is walk foot and use a 135x17 needle ? . also assuming your using 69E thread ? could be not enough thread tension, and presser foot tension ? or when your step-up on top the stack folds of the thicker seam, you might be getting some needle deflection ? if your satisfied with your machine setup, but not satisfied with the bottom stitch looks. You might also try a ( height shim ) . placed for the foot and dogs to all level out on level plain , just at the point you walk/step-up on the thick seam stack. Your sewing a folded seam/hem, that is ( 3 piece ) thick , and then your machine has to negotiate a side-seam that is rolled out of Hem. that is a good jump and the shim really helps to give machine a easy road to lay nice better stitch. you are barely getting the foots toe on top of the high seam stack, but now the thinner fabric below is suddenly unsupported. Same stepping off the high stack, your foot is running off but thinner material below is unsupported until the Heal drops off the edge. I have a few I keep in machines drawers and they come in handy from time to time. I also make my own, and in different heights, for running feet/dogs parallel on different height material. But common sold nylon/plastic ones for a straight stitch jump / they look like this . and you just slide (open needle slot ) in-front of stacked seam to jump down big, and then remove when the foot just clears the stack . . Or slide Shim in from behind to jump up big, when your needle is on the down stroke sitting in-front of the stacked seam - -

what . pintodeluxe ... say's . I think it mostly depends on the what bobbin assembly the machine has. some machines design are 1st stroke thread-tail grab magnets if you don't hold, and then some type machines don't grab but rarely. On the machines I have a couple of them are real grabby and you cant ever forget to hold the thread tails on the 1st stroke ever. Then on a couple machines, they rarely will ever grab and tangle on the 1st stroke. I think the most forgiving machines I have for not holding thread tails on the start stroke is a old Jap Consew walkfoot, and Mitsubishi. The very WORST 1st stroke grabber for machine I have, is the old Swiss Bernina 217. and you 'can't ever not once' forget with that machine. -

Bell Crank Lever . If you only getting 12 spi for your stitch adjustment like you said, then that is where you need to concentrate for starting to stretch them back out longer . https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/87846-recondition-a-29-4-bell-crank-lever/ .

You live over in Bend OR. , Don't know any sew Tech. there, but there is hand's-on Tech./repair in Salem, Portland, and across Br. in Vancouver . In the end it might have been the better choice for perfect timing job . You can still take it to qualified people for a repair on the broken set-screw, and get it set-up/timed properly to the the requirements you want the machine to work at . It 150+ miles from Bend to Salem and a Tech. there can drill that set-screw out, dissemble that part and re-Tap for using a little larger size set-screw . It a lot of driving for you, but you will end-up with the job being done correct. . .

Routing your top thread . Your not routing threw both the Tension assemblies are you ? . you only use one of them for single needle . the 217 offered a double needle attachment and that is reason for there being 2 tensions . You said .." top thread feels real tight, but stitch still seems loose ". maybe you running to much bobbin tension ? . Or what 'Constabulary' said .. Double the layers, if only testing on a single layer. For the fraying thread on the Needle . start by checking for burr on the Hook . Or a burr on needle plate or feed dog . Or maybe you got to small a needle hole for thread size . Or using to much tension and causing to much friction . - -

Was going threw hardware box and seen I had 2 of these . CS Oborne . ( #217 set ) made USA . . #0 (1/4" hole) . . Spur Grommet Set . 30-$ \ plus shipping . Payment is .. Paypal , or Postal .. PM me for info . ...thanks .

I got Swiss.217 also, and the factory Cam box's and Puller set-ups are real hard to run into . The 217 is a quality gem, but rarely have I seen anyone selling used puller and cam box for them . I would love to score on an old cam box . Global also ( has or had ? ) a clone also . Looks exact copy to mine, with straight-stitch and ZZ, and needle position slide . The only thing they did not remake with there copy, is they left-off the top on-board bobbin winder . they look to have a internet page/linking 217 with advertising there puller and Cam Box . https://youtu.be/uRP4EXWJe3M https://globalsew.com/product/zz-217-series/ -

So you did Not have skipped stitches, before you changed needle and thread size . ? Can be timing with Hook and needle . or, Distance from Hook to Needle scarf on the pass-threw . also in relation to small or large size threads being used . also, take a look and make sure your Scarf presents a nice flat 90deg to the Hook, and you not tweaked left or right. .

Brother PQ1500SL , That to bad it sold, ... ' The Quilting Marine ' , had a really high praise of the machine . https://youtu.be/GRxuqaJCZL4 -

like he ( dikman ) saying .. Locktight GTG , and pin flame to loosen . Or, also can use a point-tip Solder Iron and just set it to small screw head and the Locktight will loosen right up . .

Curious .. What is everyone else doing with there old clutch motors ? off all there machines . Are they now just obsolete dinosaur, that is a throw away No Keeper ? ,also there 50+ LB. each all boxed up. So it really cost more for shipping than there worth . I spring cleaning now and making ( need room ) . have several of them all boxed up that I been saving under the cutting tables, .. So, there just a Dumpster item now with Servo drive as the industrial standard now ? .

It becomes inappropriate to use . When you can not get the machines finished results to meet 'your personal quality of standards' , with using it . . Or if it will just Not get the job done at all . .

LOL.... Well he was asking about how/removing shuttle/hook ???? , easy to pull it out and remove replace what you want and put back . ( MaliMac said:  ) quote: ..." but still couldn't get the shuttle out, how do you remove it ? " And If nothing else .. It always good for him to see what the thing is and looks like, he is actually monkey wrenching on . .

it will slide strait-up and out, as it is all one unit on the shaft . look underside for a set-screw holding shaft position . should be very similar to this old Singer 112 bobbin assembly . - -

I opened your link . ( If this what talking about ? ) . The basket needs held for timing, You got to get a Needle Plate to hold the bobbin assembly in place from freely spinning . After than, then you can start to see if there are problems .

ya that Co. ( cutex sewing ) , i have bought a lot of odds and ends from them over last few years. Some are pretty good some not. I would guess about 1 or 2 out of 10 things are subpar on the quality, but the prices are China-Low so you can afford to just throw them away if they fall to far out of Spec. . That is a good price on the 'raised' single-needle plate and dogs . makes setting up single-needle Binding a much easier road on the old singers . I run a couple double-needle machines on binding and am pretty limited to where to get for, 'raised' dogs and plates for 2-needle Gauge sets . About only place I know of to get them is direct from Tenn. Attachment . Would love to find ? .. a less expensive alternative on the raised double-needles sets, so I could set-up several more gauge sizes on the needle spreads . .

That bottom Pic. . ( looks like ? ) You running a raised feed dog and raised throat plate, in conjunction with your Binders hardware . Once I started doing that it became much more easy getting the results I wanted . Your comment on ..." I can't find the odd colors needed in any purchased tapes or webbing ". .. finding that right color for your binding tapes I can relate to ..LOL . It can be a big PIA . That is a job in searching and sometime I just give up and just have a color dye run done at Bally Ribbon . If they don't have it in-stock, they will do you a color dye run for your binding or your webbing . there quality is always A+, and your get what you need. .

- Hows that Binder set-up tracking on the fold and feed to your materials ? With that Binder throat screwed down flat like that to slide-plate . Just wondering because I have set-up a lot of Binders on slide-plates, and looks like you have very little ways of changing throat angle positions ? talking about Deg. of angle changes, for throwing Binding feed, flowing top or Bottom side on the sew . --- I REALLY prefer a small swing bracket with 90 deg. throat, off the slide-plates for a 1st choice . But, If I had my mind made up for a larger hardware, bed-mount swing-bracket . The one that ( Gregg from Keystone ) put up in that pic. in his Post above in the Thread . I have had that larger swing-arm Bed mount, that Tenn.Attachment Co. set's-up . If going that direction... That would be my only go-to choice . as it a hardcore piece of craftsmanship they put out . .

So you do have a R-side slide plate . But you saying .." no holes drilled in it " ? All you have to do is just drill and tap your own holes in the slide plate to mount a fixed position or a swing-arm bracket for your seam binder . Then just drill/tap a keeper screw for plate hold down to stop any slide moment while sewing . It pretty straight forward to do and slide plates are cheap . It more compact than that added extra hardware, and all you do is remove the slide plate with binder , and slide in another plain flat plate if want to use machine other than binding . --- I have owned that exact larger bed bracket swing-arm years back on a seam binder attachment, along with the single smaller swing-arm bracket that is screwed to the Side slide plate in the Pic . and also still have and use a few binders with only using the slide plate mount swing brackets. In the Pic. by (mixmikr) . There is actually ( 2 ) swing-arm hinge brackets, there doing one job . a smaller swing-arm bracket screwed to the slide plate, and also a swing-away hing back on the Bed mount bracket attached to it . To each there own, but ( to me ) it a little redundant for 2 swing-arm brackets with using one binder attachment . I never liked that large hardware bracket and it did nothing but eat up a lot of room, and did not accomplish anything the small slide-plate mount swing-arm did with seam binding a job . The single smaller hardware, swing bracket on R-side slide plate, with seam bind attachment will do your work perfectly by itself . So Why ? then you join to a larger hardware, with swing bed mount bracket ? . . ( less is more ) and 1 mounted on the slide plate is better than ( 2 ) swing arms . . 2 swing arms is also double the hardware and it also leads to more adjustment moving movements, and added problems with hardware moving and falling out of your set adjustment . .

Is your machine not have a R-side slide plate like singer 111 or 212, or another clone machine, like being discussed in thread topic ? . Because the R-side slide-plate, will completely mount/hold a ( swing away ) R-angle seam binder attachment you use. you don't need to use that bed attachment swing arm with mounting to your bed . .

Nice find . could use a couple sizes of those edge-guide Center feet . There is Something on there website you linked on there ( Co.main page ) about suspension of overseas shipping ? cant read Chinese for details ? . but if they not shipping at this moment, it probably only temporary till the Covid19 fiasco stops being the accepted normal . .

Don't know ?? if you going to find that detailed depth info with Leather and Thread . In the Para. Rigging industry there is books full of this mind numbing info . The Rigging topic has intense in-depth study of all, structural load strengths, shear strengths, shock load strengths, abrasion strengths and failures of fabrics, webbing's and all the Threads, and with all hardware's the fabrics and threads come into contact with being sewn . All done over the years because of aircraft air speed/exit speeds and structure and failure with parachute, harness container systems, cutaway systems, ejection systems ..etc. . with all the history with Gov. contracts and FAA TSO and other Certs. with all fabrics and threads involved used with constructed of life saving equipment . .

So .. your question is ? , Why Hook is dropping the # 92 thread on the stitch every time . But when rigged up with #138 thread, the Hook picks up that thread for complete stitch ? .