chuck123wapati

cool fact!!! not a story, none is the answer if done correctly no glue is needed. , sorry I'm out you obviously got er all knowed up.

that is beautiful, i love how you added the lining, it makes the dogs look like they are peeking out.

What @fredk says is so true. Any proof in that? show me an oil that wasn't in existence in the 20 th. century. "what people knew in their own locality and shared with each other. Now, we get knowledge from around the world." How are these two conditions different in any way? lol. we've been sharing info for thousands of years.

I disagree and ask for some proof on that. . They are still combinations of the same old oils. greases and waxes. with a few new buzz words added of course. Your testing them as we speak, how many of the oils you are testing were not around in the 20th century? Name one that any of us aren't testing that wasn't around in the 20th century.

Your using to small of thread in to big of a hole. But you go on ahead and glue it if you need to. Pull that last stitch up tight and cut close or burn it off it will pull back into the hole a bit and hide itself never to be seen again. Good luck!!! But be carefull if your stitch gets loose a little ball of glue or melted thread will hang there and dig into your customer until they come to me to cut it off and fix it.

From the books I've read, my personal experience and as well my recent samples bear some proof Thin oils, no matter what kind are used to soften and condition the leather because they can flow more easily through the leather, heavier greases and waxes are more for water resistance, protection from the elements and such That's why we add a bit of NFO or whatever oil after we finish working then after that any other heavier greases or waxes depending on the intended use of the product. Boots for example are treated differently than a purse. A purse may need more nfo, mink, mineral or lighter oils to soften it and make it pliable while boots need less of those and more water proofing. Leather hasn't changed and the products used on them haven't changed, just the way they are sold and who sells them. The leather doesn't care which you use and the oils are even more uninterested. Back on topic lol. I'm both a broke dude and a cheap old geezer, but feibings nfo products are all that are sold in my lil town so that's what I buy.

line it. that's the next step up to a quality belt. then build one! that's how i got mine lol.

or block dye them, in this case stamp first then dye.

for small pieces like that try dip dyeing them first then stamping as the leather gets to the proper stage.

beautiful work!!!!

yes you should. it would depend on the finished look your after on what you would use. I would test any product before applying it to your work on scrap pieces. Acrylic paints, poly sealers for wood, shellac, boiled linseed oil & beeswax, are just some options you can try. Good luck and post a picture of your work!! yes you should. it would depend on the finished look your after on what you would use. I would test any product before applying it to your work on scrap pieces. Acrylic paints, poly sealers for wood, shellac, boiled linseed oil & beeswax, are just some options you can try. Good luck and post a picture of your work!!

if you do it right the thread won't work itself loose mine never have. Good luck..

try and find the book , Encyclopedia of Rawhide and Leather braiding, i have an ecopy I found on the internet. It explains everything about rawhide making, cutting and usage its an old book so it is very rustic lol..

nice work and a great start to fishin season. I'd love to take a trip just for the halibut lol.

dang you Frodo. Its the first nice week and I gotta till my garden before i can get my worms to even go fishin.

none! you dont need it.

lol that's pyrography for you it has many names and many ways to do it.

dang that's to bad. we got about a half eclipse here but it was cloudy also so I didn't look very long.

I've also made flat leads from that type of rope by pulling out the core and running a zigzag stitch down them to make them stay flat. if you went this route then stamping and applying a flat leather handle would be easy also. I just don't see an easy answer to this question on a round handle that tight. Good luck!!

beautiful work!!!

or you could try pyrography.

get rid of the rope , it looks cheap, use good leather make a flat strap lead and all your problems go away. plus it looks like a quality product.

thank you!! i took the lens out of my welding helmet and used it on my camera to take pics of the last one.

have it matted and framed by a pro in a shadow box type frame so the glass doesn't touch the leather, Don't hang it where the sun will ruin it.

oh well Teknolagee is over rated!! Been doin good here its almost springtime Good to hear from you, I hope everything else is working. remember you can have bread and water or tea and toast its all up to you lol.