chuck123wapati

I had to do some research to see just what the dif is between resin, rosin ,tar or sap also how its made. Rosin is simple to make I'll collect and make a batch next spring, maybe sooner if a I can get to the woods. BTW if you do google rosin be sure to specify pine rosin or you get instruction on marajuana rosin lol i doubt it would work the same.

yup.

buy or use a 1" wood chisel and use punches for the ends that way you can make any size slot you want until you are sure what size oblongs you want. the chisel cuts really nice slots just punch out the ends and cut the slots withthe chisel.

i collected about a cup of pine sap last year to make glue as the native Americans did. They melt it and mix it with rabbit pellets. it creates a hot melt glue that they used or many things including attaching their arrow heads. I guess I should have collected more for sewing.

the nicest thing about it is that it points the same as my 1911.

The world would be a much better place with flavored ky.

lol my knowledge was also from my art teacher.

Things you learn as you get older... Never put the preparation h on the same shelf as the tooth paste. Never brush your teeth before coffee!!

you may think about trying inverted carving also. that where the picture is beveled into the leather.

lol Your still being defensive just look at what you just wrote my friend no one here is against you or anything you want to try or believe. lol On the other hand you don't have a reason to believe they aren't the same thing either my friend. Most of my products are for outdoor use so they get finishes that are more designed for that criteria. More like you would apply to boots for example. Sounds like roll playing gear? I don't know how well hot sweaty skin would react to an acrylic sealer or if allergies might be a problem. if they are made to flex or get beaten on I doubt you will be happy in the long run with acrylic either. If they are going to be hard like armor then you may want to look into boiled leather I doubt it would need much sealer besides maybe some beeswax or some such natural finish.

I like that sleek design but I agree on the welt yikes!

personally I would have used pyrography for that type of image, i suppose you can use black acrylic paint or similar to color it in. your carving looks great!!!

I have no idea only you can tell us that, it isn't my thread nor was it my question. I don't understand why you are so defensive about everything? folks have just been trying to help you. You argued you don't want to waste 25 bucks on leather but will happily waste it on a brand name sealer. Spend two or three days now arguing the point and being vehemently against the thought then realize you are using it anyway. Anyway back on topic. I have some eco sheen its ok and you can dilute as you wish, its an acrylic sealer, I have some pledge future acrylic floor wax its ok too absolutely no difference between the two. I use them only as a resist for staining my tooling when i need to. All the rest of the time I don't use any of the crap on my stuff. I like more natural finishes on my work as do my customers. You may want to rethink the whole process or even if acrylic is what you need for your project if your goodie flexes it will most likely crack at some point using an acrylic sealer. As we don't know what you projects are we cant help with that.

You finally figured out what everyone was telling you Congrats!!!

here ya go sorry for taking so long to respond. Here is the basic pattern i used a camo tool 431 if i remember right. and a 701 shaded beveller. the space between the two camo lines is approximately 1/8". The beveller is used to extend the one curve line to appear its going over the other curve. It doesn't take much to create the effect. I use hand pressure to set the bevel stamp. do one side then turn your piece over and do the other exactly the same.

I agree with the chief your over thinking triggers. But there are things to think about. On triggers, there are many many triggers better than an off the shelf Glock but that is unimportant. The important part is keeping your finger off of it until you intend to shoot and practicing that during your training sessions. The type of action doesn't mean much you pull the trigger the weapon fires the round bottom line. I have a Colt 44 magnum revolver that has about half or less the trigger pull of a Glock in double action it so scary smooth that I don't even keep it loaded unless shooting it or hunting(its not a home defense weapon its to dangerous). But the quality of your weapon or trigger again isn't the key. Matching your weapon to the job its intended for and practice until you can use for that job are the critical factors. On safeties, they can fail don't rely on them. The trigger safety on a Glock and most pistols with this feature for example is a tiny piece of plastic that hangs up on the trigger guard you can see it behind the trigger if you put on your bifocals and i imagine you could squeeze the trigger hard enough to break it and fire the weapon. If you do intend to carry a firearm cocked and loaded with the safety on then you must practice with the weapon until you can without thinking to disengage the safety while pulling out your firearm. I will offer this insight that is very hard to do. My personal opinion is if you need a gun cocked and ready to shoot then you don't need or want the safety at that time, if you don't need the gun in ready to fire mode then unload the thing. Common sense and thinking about your environment plays out a bit here, do you live in a place where you need your weapon cocked and loaded all the time? Or just when you go to the bank or walk to work? That is what you train to. On holsters. Remember the fbi agent who lost his cocked and ready to fire pistol while dancing in a disco? He probably could have used a suicide strap at that moment. That's an example of how environment plays a roll on how you carry your firearm and where, and what holster type. My environment for example is mostly out of doors and very active so i build and use a strap on my holsters so I don't lose my pistol in some muddy ditch which is much more likely than being attacked by a crack head unexpectedly while fishing. On the occasion I go to a store or the bank or somewhere my hackles raise i simply unsnap my strap and cock my weapon before hand. If i were to live on 2nd street in Denver I would probably carry my pistol hidden cocked and ready in my hand in my coat pocket lol but you get my drift, iwb , owb, cc, shoulder holster strap no strap, kydex or leather each has its pros and cons in any given set of variables. Your body type also plays a roll, you may love an appendix carry or iwb because everyone on the net says its the bees knees but if your 5'6" and 350 lbs then you probably couldn't find your Glock micro under your belly roll or love handles in time to save you fat lil butt from danger. Common sense!! Build and or buy what you need and works for you in the environment you intend to use it, not what some youtube expert says you need. Then the bottom line is, especially as a new gun owner, always practice at least an hour a day with what you have the way you intend to use it in the holster you intend to use. Creating muscle memory for such life saving situations only happens one way you cant throw in a safety once in a while or a different carry option on Sundays and expect to differentiate that without thinking under the stress of a life altering drama. K.I.S.S. and practice!!!! Off my soap box now lol good luck and enjoy your endeavor.

it is a different action that does the same thing (hits the firing pin) as a hammer in the firearm. A hammer fired weapon is like a1911 for while a striker fired has an internal striker system with no hammer, its a simpler and lighter mechanism.

lol I agreed with you until I fired one the other day. They are fun as all get out and I think have finally gotten most of the bugs worked out. But your right they will never be a 1911. Years ago my wife fixed my mind so I can change it. God bless you too Pastor

Should I dare say I use Pledge with future shine lol. on the VERY rare occasion i use any acrylic sealer on my leather products. i use the stuff mainly as a resist when staining. I've also got charcoal drawings I made in highs cool ( lol spellcheck actually suggested that) 50 year ago that I used aqua net hair spray instead of matte finish to seal the work. Don't tell anyone.

I dunno never tried it but the ky jelly my wife bought the other day sure wasn't very good.

Great your experience and knowledge can be well put to use here. welcome!!!

Leather works fine. Here's a Glock 43x holster i just finished. i took a different approach than Hags not that it matters. Mine fits the pistol so it slides in and out easily but is tight enough to not move in the holster and wear the finish. I feel i want my pistol to come out easily and fast if i need it. My retention is the strap as you can see. The trigger should be covered so you don't accidently stick your finger on it while pulling it from the holster. I use 10 oz. wet molded and no stiffener they get very hard and have never had a problems with any of the weapons I've made this style holster for. I cant see the top of my holster even fitting inside the trigger guard to cause a discharge. Having a worn or ill fitting holster that causes a discharge is the owners fault making sure you are safe goes farther than just checking your pistol that is how you eliminate risks.

I find it interesting how conditioned folks are to consumerism and the illusion presented that you don't have to think at all you just blindly accept what the "expert", paid actor, on tv is telling you. Pt Barnum said there is a fool born every minute, Big business ran with that thought.