chuck123wapati

No piece of leather is without flaws. It comes from a critter that lives in the outdoors. Consequently there's a lot of waste sometimes if your project needs that type of perfection. Obviously more so in economy grade leathers. Buying leather first hand is my suggestion for decreasing those types of problems no matter the grade.

you like old books buy this one it will answer most of the questions you ask. https://www.amazon.com/Leathercraft-Tools-Al-Stohlman/dp/1892214903 yw good luck!

try a glass slicker. It may help some.

xactly that's why the awl rules in this case over trying to figure punch holes its a no brainer with an awl. As you can see its just a matter of marking the main body holes, a guideline in the bottom as dikman said then pushing the awl through towards the dead center of the bottom.

yes that would work well i think.

only conical lOl.

i watched the video and you can sew that up in minutes with an awl with nothing but a stitch marker around the outside piece. Even the video maker is making this way to hard. Make a form so you don't have to hold the thing and sew. I just had a thought for an accurate coozie form fill a can with plaster of paris or maybe even that expanding crack filler foam crap and insert a couple of pins, dowels or some such that you can clamp in your stitching pony. simply slide the sewn outer piece over it then you can easily glue the bottom in and start sewing. Step away from your calculator very slowly and have a beer instead. remember people made this stuff before rulers were even invented.

I fought this problem to the death on moccasin toes last month. you cant just glue up and sew those with an awl at least I couldn't figure out how to. yup you can mark the holes on the outside piece then draw the same diagram to find the inner hole spacing measure it and you have the answer pretty close. On 2 mil leather it would be a very small difference on a miter joint type. That's why I didn't draw the thing to actual proportions, probably should have.

You have it made then, mine work twice as hard as my gson lol, you could get some things done with five.

Its just another blade man sharpen it up.

lol must have been one snag to much for the guy.

From "Leathercraft Tools" By Al Stohlman in other areas its mentioned that burnishing makes the leather brown while slicking doesnt.

excellent work!! and now brings up the question how are you connecting the two pieces?? . Butted up together like with thicker leathers , formed inside like Frodos, formed opposite of Frodos or some other method ? maybe a pic of what you are trying to do would help.

It works the same if you have a form to sew on. If the leather is that thin then the difference in circumference isn't very much between the two pieces but your making it way to hard for no need. Another way, get a compass and draw a circle the same size as the bottom circumference. Draw a second circle the size of the main body circumference. mark your intended holes on the inner circle then with a ruler mark lines from the center of the circle through your intended stitching pattern to the outer circle. this will give you the measurement you want. easily and quickly. The problem with finding that "principle" is that the distance from the edge of the leather to the hole is part of the equation as well as the thickness of the leather so you have more than one variable to the equation. you will see and understand this problem better when you make the above template.

i should turn some wood and makes some koozie forms for folks, i just grabbed a tree limb and cut off a piece one day for a sewing form but a nice turned one the right size would be better.

the best way is to just mark your holes on the main piece then use an awl through both pieces after glue up. bevel both pieces at 45 degrees and your thread should not show inside the cup but go through the beveled area only.

just use the chisel on the main body glue the bottom on and finish the hole through with an awl. No math is needed friend. bevel the edges so the two pieces fit together properly before glueing.

I didn't keep the chicken scratch i call plans it was one sheet of a basic idea drawn out. I knid of build as I go lol but I have a few pictures i could show you The main roller and shaft are taken out of an auto shock absorber.

There are a lot things they tell a guy about gettin old, most of it is Bullsnot! Give em hell friend and don't look back, you don't know you cant do it until you try.

A plastic baggie is fine, don't overly wet it just get it as close to the stamping dampness as you can before putting in the baggie.

cool fact!!! not a story, none is the answer if done correctly no glue is needed. , sorry I'm out you obviously got er all knowed up.

that is beautiful, i love how you added the lining, it makes the dogs look like they are peeking out.

What @fredk says is so true. Any proof in that? show me an oil that wasn't in existence in the 20 th. century. "what people knew in their own locality and shared with each other. Now, we get knowledge from around the world." How are these two conditions different in any way? lol. we've been sharing info for thousands of years.

I disagree and ask for some proof on that. . They are still combinations of the same old oils. greases and waxes. with a few new buzz words added of course. Your testing them as we speak, how many of the oils you are testing were not around in the 20th century? Name one that any of us aren't testing that wasn't around in the 20th century.