chuck123wapati

the front is essentially the same except the front strap goes all the way over and the back snap is on a dog ear. that way your thumb pops the snap as its going down the correct off side of the revolver. I'll try and find a pic.

nice job, did you skive the inside of the sheath at the spine? the fold appears kind of bulky

its a wonderful job of stamping and appears to fit well. i really like the way you stamped the camo turnaround by the trigger that is a hard spot to fill and make look good. i would suggest a more finished strap to match the holster somehow, maybe to match the lower strap, it looks out of place and as bladegrinder says a bit to long after the snap. My two cents on a strap, it is dependent on the type of holster you make and the intent of usage for it. I do however feel most holsters need a strap of some sort. you can put a thumb break on that style by adding a dog ear at the top back by the fold of the loop with the male snap then sew your strap on the front of the holster or design it into the pattern. i meant female snap.

go for it!! I can't wait to see what you come up with.

that's half the fun!!

never slowed Clint down lol.

that is some nice work!

I wouldn't resist them because there are no real outlines to follow I think the brand will dye differently than the rest and be just as noticeable.

Awesome as always !!

you rock man!!! a doll to last a lifetime.

plus there are tons of you tubes on it as well as quite a few here use them so if you have questions ask.

That is some nice work!! Leather is useful art, you will love working with it. It takes acrylics very nicely as well as dyes.

That's taking it to the old climate change demon. replace a 150 watt light with a 150 watt element then add a few extra leds so you can see.

wet form your trays. then use rivets.

bacon oil has nitrates and or salt in it which will have a negative effect on leather imo. plus it usually burns to some degree in the frying process Lard and tallow are rendered by boiling in water so burning doesn't happen.

so i cut 5 pieces inch square. then used 1/4 teaspoon of each which turned out to be to much so i soaked some off with a paper towel. Then I applied neets foot oil to the one marked peanut oil, lol switched those around, then ran a thread through all and hung them in my green house. 1 Neets foot oil 2 peanut oil 3 feibings golden mink oil 4 elk tallow 5 control piece. NFO and peanut oil are both very light oils so soaked in nicely. The tallow and Mink oil had to be heated with a hair dryer. I can tell already the elk tallow is way to heavy on its own as a liquor for leather however it may work well as a mixture with lighter oils as a water proofing. The golden mink oil I believe has a good portion of petroleum jelly in its mixture.

check this out it resembles the picture . https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/1144-collar-fastener-set

https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/l-1982?_pos=3&_psq=card+holder&_ss=e&_v=1.0

I've spent about an hour looking I cant find any thing like them. i can see they are expensive on that site due to the nice craftsman ship no doubt, they are nicely made. You could buy several cheapo wing dividers and set them and leave them. You could make them from about anything not necessarily metal. You could take an old set of dinner forks and tweak the tines to the desired widths, crab / lobster forks maybe even.

make your own set.

Interesting I've never cared much what other folks do or how they choose to create or finish their work as long as it doesn't effect me but I have to ask. Hilt as defined is usually the term for the parts of a complete handle assembly do you mean you take off the scales of your knives to see if the tang is polished, you must get really disappointed I've never seen one polished or even heard of it being done? I mean if you understand why jeweling holds oil then why don't you understand why a rough or sanded tang holds glue better?

i think a guy can stamp it the way he wants to and doesn't have to feel bad about any part of it. Personally I like a smooth leather against my body however and wouldn't want one stamped on the back. But if the customer would want it I would make it.

What Bruce said but you will want to put a sealer on the areas you don't want to dye dark so mistakes don't happen.

I truly hope you get the chance, i would love to see the Australian outback i think its a lot like the red desert here except its not 6000+ feet in altitude. We did well this year put some fish in the freezer and a ton of wild greens, most folks call them weeds. we have six or seven edible plants in our garden that most folks pull out and throw away. We use them all.

I may do that my area of the world is very dry humidity wise, so dry in fact i have found leather shoe pieces out in the old homestead dump's that have been laying on the ground for at least a100 years. Another thing to think about is viscosity of the oils used and its relation ship to the process. oils will at some point migrate out of the leather just due to gravity, lighter oils moving easier through the leather fibers may be lost sooner, its another reason we have to add oils over time. You may want to think about what your pieces are going to be laying on or in as they also could wick the oils away from the leather. I do have some rendered elk tallow I could try, as well as the manufactured product i use. wish i had some bear grease it was traditionally used as well.