JayEhl

This!! I'm like on my fourth journal cover and with each one I learn a bit more. My latest is for my daughter, too, and I am using 6/7 for front and back panels so I can tool and a 2/3 for the middle binder and the inside flap for papers and such. I'm still debating what weight I will use for the other inside panel where the book back will slip in. Because the book will cover it, I don't know if I want to put any big tooling effort if it won't be seen much (but I can't help myself, sometimes!) Probably just carve out a love note on it or something. But super fun!

It was explained to me that when you tool your leather it moves the leather around such that it spreads out making the overall look 'stretched'. I've used blue painters tape mostly and others use clear plastic packing tape. Some are very persnickity about which brands to buy so it may take some experimentation. I've also (rubber cement) glued on a backing made from cardboard, about the thickness of the back of a cereal box or thick sturdy construction paper. I've even used both (tape first then glued to cardboard) for really thin leathers that I wanted to stamp so it would burnish more.

It is a Swingline after all....

OP member info states from North Carolina.

Living in Houston, you're close but I cannot afford something like that. I don't suppose you have anything else you, eh?

I was going to suggest the same, that is gut it out and reuse what you like with a tooled up cover that you can roll or use a strap and buckle or whatever. Pretty cool idea.

With those D rings you could easily add an accessorry of a shorter strap to make it a clutch or handle thingy. Excellent work!

Right, I figured the wide strap was necessary to distribute the weight. I made a wider strap for my messenger bag and it does help take the strain off when it's kitted out with work junk AND the laptop. Does the inside need to be lined or will the flesh side help with the friction so it stays on the shoulder (until they get used to it)?

Hi, While here, I have a question about the polishing compound, more specifically what is the consistency supposed to be like? I know a few will cringe when I say I am still using the white compound from my starter kit from Tandy. It is hard as a rock and I have to rub kind of aggressively to get it on my cardboard backing (what I normally use). Should it be that hard? And I've read somewhere that different colors offer contains different material used for the sharpening, but what color is best for ceramic v metal blades? And what should the consistency be like out of the box, meaning, if it's supposed to be hard as a rock. Thanks in advance.

Dude, your work is very professional and you should be proud of it. I look forward to your contributions .... especially because I'm such a novice and can only aspire to this level of work! Best wishes for 2022

Hi --- being still new to making wet formed holsters, would using the oven or dryer method make the leather form worse?

It's some sort of clothing store. So yea... what you said.. WHAT opportunity?

had to laugh and giggle about that video. I have a black German Shepherd doggo, too. It's my third....

Hey that looks nice. Does it open up /fold down?

For tips about specific machines you're best bet is to ask another part of the forum dealing with just leather sewing machines: https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/50-leather-sewing-machines/ ~JL

You can make a pretty nice clicker for under $200 using a press from Harbor freight. This is a video from Attack Line Leather and he did a pretty good job. I'm planning on this later this year, maybe.

Hi, from what I am gathering here, it is the old adage: You get what you pay for.

Hey no problem. Let me know if you change your mind.

First off, really super amazing crafstmanship. What I would give to work as an apprentice to learn to do bags and stuff like that!! I don't know that much about making bags but when I bought a used sewing machine from a lady she gave me several rolls of Bontex bag stiffener. I used a piece for a minimalist card holder I was messing with and it work as expected. I'd be glad to ship you some if you pay for shipping.

If it were me....I'd just cut out a piece and do whatever you intend to ---- after washing it off thoroughly, of course. Then I'd run the sniff test on it to make sure it doesn't maintain the 'odor' after you put your finish on it.

Understanding the OP was 18 months ago but were y'all referring to this? https://tandyleather.com/blogs/leathercraft-library

is this the press you are referring? https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=arbor press To save both space and money by not buying two, I was wondering if these other presses could also double down as the arbor press with some machining of the ram part as mentioned as well as for clicking out some leather. I was looking at the six ton press https://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a-frame-bench-shop-press-1666.html or the 12 ton press https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html

Hi, not wanting to assume (or insult) your computer knowledge but in the google, you can search for "backpack and dinosaur" and then filter for images (at the top). When I searched I saw lots of creative ideas but as mentioned, no patterns. You may have to get a decent looking one on the cheap and tear it apart for modifications and stuff. Further searched by adding "sewing and pattern" I saw this: https://threadistry.com/blog/dinosaur-sewing-patterns/ https://sewing.craftgossip.com/free-pattern-fleece-dinosaur-backpack-with-spikes/2012/10/25/ https://www.etsy.com/listing/67814698/dinosaur-back-pack-pdf-sewing-pattern https://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/dino-backpack-2 Whatever you decide I'm sure it will be filled with love and worn with pride. and be sure to post pictures when complete!