I don't know how you neat, organized guys get anything done at all. I mean, is the job really done, if you haven't devoted at least 20% of your time to finding the tools you needed?
I think not ...
Don't get hung up needing all the name brand, hi dollar tools everyone seems to have. Get a basic tooling set and get to work. Looks like an Exacto knife and a straight edge are all you need for those dog leads, Pretty cool looking, actually.
Does anyone have the actual bobbin tension spec for the 111W series machines? In my case, 111W153 and 111W151.
AndyTube cites a spec for domestics of around 25 grams and apparently got it from an adjusters manual or somewhere official. I've been setting all domestics I work on at just under an ounce. I like repeatability.
I have a 151 that's way too tight. I'm going to set it around an ounce and start from there, unless someone has the actual number. I looked in all the pdf manuals I have and don't see an actual number.
Thanks!
I guess this means congratulations are in order. I'd love a Cowboy one armed bandit or a Tipmann. I can't remotely justify it, but I have this vision of a small mobile leather shop built into a little cargo trailer. No idea why, really. I guess the open road is beckoning ...
After struggling with lead free solders, I silver soldered dissimilar metals (copper and stainless) using Stay-Brite 8, liquid acid flux and Mapp Gas. That flow through problem is a tough one.
How about filling it with epoxy?
Definitely like the elongated / asymmetrical quilting. I've done a few on a squared pattern. I'm certainly going to stretch it out next time.
Nice work, good aesthetic.
Here are a bunch of manuals:
https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/85809-pfaff-345-service-manual-download/?do=findComment&comment=582713
This thread talks a little about timing a 335:
Maybe it'll help. It also mentions needlebar height. I don't know if it could slip enough to go 180 degrees out.
Maybe one of the big dogs will sniff this one out and have an easier answer for you.
For 300 bucks in working order, I'd be on it like white on rice.
A cylinder arm might be more useful for bags, depending on the bag and construction method.
You need to find out what 45K subclass it is.
https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html
Scroll down to the 45 section and even in they cylinder arm configuration there are a lot of variants. Some for heavy leather, some for bags, shoe vamps and things that make me question how much clearance there is under the presser foot.
But it's really cute.
EDIT: 45K1 says it has 1/2" presser foot clearance. Maybe they all do.
Hey, congrats on a quick resolution. Way too often people go straight to Defcon 1 instead of just calmly explaining their concern and letting the vendor respond.
Contact them, explain it just as you have here and ask if they have any ideas. They might be aware of an issue.
Maybe you'll come back and report on a company that took great care of you.
@adventureleather Thanks for your report and especially the video. It really shows how it runs.
I really want one of these, I just can't justify the expense with as infrequently as I use the machine.