BlackDragon

I've gotten orders online for knife sheaths and I don't have the knifes. There are a couple ways I go about it. One: I offer to make a general fit sheath. I'll get basic measurements of the knife then make a sheath that will fit the knife and there will probably be play in the sheath. You could use the sheath for different knives. Its like buying something off the rack in Large, Medium, or Small. Two: You can get the measurements from the knife manufacturer, it's usually right on their webpage. I print a copy of the picture of the knife in the measurements they provide, then I make a wooden knife like Dwight said. And the second way raises the price of the sheath.

Thanks!

Thanks!

I going to comment on pricing but not the saddle bag itself since this isn't the "Critique My Work" section. Generally speaking I price items based on cost of materials, my time, shop costs, and locality. They look like swing arm bags but I can't tell the size of the bags. I'm going to guess at 12" wide? I round up to the nearest sqft. So if something is 1' x 6" I count it as 1 sqft. 1sqft front, 1sqft back, 1sqft gusset, 1sqft lid. add your thread, glue, dye, hardware, etc. What does it cost to run your shop? Rent, electricity, water, insurance, etc. I'll take those costs and go up to triple. So if all the costs add up to $50 it'll be at $150 Now add in your time. Lets say it took you 8hrs. What are you paying yourself $8hr or $40? This is going to depend on your experience. Hopefully the more experience you have the higher quality you're producing. You'll have to also decide what are the going prices in your area? If the max for a custom leather bag is $300 you're probably not going to get more than that, unless you're selling online and have a broader reach. Sometimes I'll make deals with people. If they buy several pieces I may do I group price. Or if they are veterans, LEO, paramedics, FD I'll knock 10% of the price.

Beautiful work!!

I carry mine on my hip. I use it for lighter leathers, cutting patterns, snipping thread, etc. Not sure if I would use one with serrated edge. If I can still use then on other things I may go for a set.

Thanks!

I've been seeing a lot of ratchet belts and a few people have asked me about them. My usual comment goes along the line of "I haven't made any and I'd have to do some research on them". So here I am looking into them. I started looking for ratchet tracks and a lot of companies make the ratchet belts but the tracks are really hard to find. I found a couple people selling them on Etsy and Ebay but they are the same brand. I can't find an actual company that sales them directly. If anyone knows of a direct source I would appreciate that info. The tracks that I ordered through Ebay are pretty good and the seller was great to deal with. I gave him a call when I had a few questions and he was really helpful with tips to mount them and what buckles work well with the track. https://www.ebay.com/itm/277241899676?itmmeta=01K0SQE5R03ZHFJ6Y637CP450F&hash=item408ce7aa9c:g:ycwAAeSwrd1oYYOR The biggest issue I have is that I would like to sew them in instead of gluing then in. I used a #23 needle but the track is too narrow for the needle. I also tried using a pricking iron and I don't like how close to the edge of the leather it is. I put one together with just glue as a test. 5oz black harness leather and 5oz vegtan liner. The area that has to latch onto the leather is skived down to a total of 5oz so the clamp can actually close. I'm looking for buckles that can actually close down on 10oz. So, does anyone know where I can find these tracks wholesale? What can I do different, if anything, to secure the track better?

Thanks! I'm glad I could inspire you!

I put together a fork bag for my bike. I guess it's actually more of a windshield bag. I used 10oz vegtan dyed with vinegaroon and used resolene to seal. The bag is 10.5"x 5"x 2.5" (mount point is 13"x 1.5")

Is it the area in between the P and I? Antiquing may hide it. It looks like it got a little burnished so if it doesnt work the first time try slightly roughing up that area and try antiquing again.

There are usually two ways I lock my stitching in. The standard way I do it is to start in reverse do three stitches, then go forward. The other way I do it that's not the norm is to start forward but leave extra thread so I can come back and hand stitch three holes to lock my thread in. I do this when I need a precise start and end point.

Good going on getting it to take a desirable black color! Looking forward to the pics. I totally understand wanting to be period correct. I used to frequent Ren Faires quite a bit and had a couple in depth characters. Vinegaroon only works with vegtan leathers as it's a chemical process between the tannins (from oak, chestnut bark, etc) and iron acetate. The more tannins the better the reaction. Vegtan leather can be most any animal. Vinegaroon wont work on Chrometanned, English Bridle, Harness, or Latigo.

Vinegaroon can be tricky, even on a piece of leather that you haven't done anything on. When you start adding things to the leather it becomes even worse. The vinegaroon works with the tannins in the leather so one piece of leather may not react the same way another one does. Sometimes even if the leather comes from the same cow. At this point the leather that's on that scabbard is the best you're going to get with vinegaroon. You'll have to use a commercial dye on it, like Fiebing's Pro, if you want to save it. You tried conditioner on the test piece of leather, try some neatsfoot oil if you have any or virgin olive oil see if that helps at all. This will usually deepen what you have. When I want something black I tend to use vinegaroon as a base then add Pro dye to the leather. This way I use much less black dye and it prevents rub off.

Just to be clear you tried to dye it after you glued it to the wood?

Ok, I found it in Account Settings> Content View Behavior I had it set for "Take me to the beginning" instead of "Take me to comments I haven't read" Thanks!

Yeah I'm using a System76 Gazelle 17" laptop. Works great and plenty of power to do anything I need. I tend not to use Snap because I've been told it slows things down. I do like that it auto updates though.

Not sure if there's a setting somewhere that I have to click on. Right now, on the website, when I click on a thread title I've already read it goes straight to post #1. If it's possible I was wondering if when we click on a thread title if it could automatically go to the last post I read. Ex; if I go the the "Mineral oil bad for leather? Or good? Or neutral?" It puts me on post #1 but it has 300+ post so I have to go to the last page then scroll to the last thing I read. When using my phone If I click on the thread title it goes to post #1 but if I click on the bubble it takes me to the last post in the thread. Other websites automatically go the the last post I read when I click on the thread title.

Wow! I hope you don't bump it anymore. When I was a kid I was working at a sail making company in Florida. One of my friends there made the mistake of running a sewing machine faster than his finger could move out of the way. He put a couple stitches in his finger and was lucky it didn't hit bone. That instilled in me to this day to keep my fingers away from things that could severely damage them. Whether it's a sewing machine or a circular saw I keep my fingers at a safe distance. And I always turn them off or unplug them if I have to work around the business end. Stay safe

Thanks for this! I just updated to version 1.4.2 and it looks a lot cleaner than the 1.1 version I've been running! I run Pop! OS which is based on Ubuntu If you want to update your's open your terminal and paste this into it. You'll need to enter your password, then it'll ask you to confirm a few times. sudo add-apt-repository universe sudo add-apt-repository ppa:inkscape.dev/stable sudo apt update sudo apt install inkscape To verify the update inkscape --version I haven't tried printing multiple pages yet but hopefully I'll get around to it soon.

It looks great!

The yellow one was what I needed when I wanted to listen to my Elvis records back in the day.

So it works on something like this? https://springfieldleather.com/products/brass-bar-snap-10pk?utm_source=chatgpt.com Can you explain a little how it works?

Thats a snap rivet setter It works like this but I'm not using the correct snap in the pic.

Looks like a rivet press with a foot peddle attachment Something like this https://www.goldstartool.com/foot-press-for-grommets-snaps-buttons-and-rivets-with-stand.htm?campaign=21363438166&content=&keyword=&gad_source=5&gad_campaignid=21359363180#830-011_11500_11261_7851_1278300881