BlackDragon

Ok because I didn't see it here either I thought it wasn't showing up.

I made a post about rebinding a Bible in Books, Journals and Photo Albums but it didn't show up when I clicked on New Posts(mobile). I was wondering if that section doesn't show up for new posts. It does show up if I click on Activity when I'm on my laptop.

I looked at SLC but they listed them as "all Metal" but when you call them they are aluminum, only the sleeve is stainless. I actually asked the customer if they wanted a quick change buckle and they said no. So I was limited to finding 2" buckles to match their old one. I looked at their site but I needed 2" buckles and they don't have the brass ones in that size. Also they didn't state in their website what type of metal their other ones were. I reached out to them but they never got back to me.

In a rebinding thread I made a post about starting a rebinding project on a Bible. This is the before and after of that. I had an old Bible laying around. It's actually the first Bible I ever owned, bought back in the 80's. It's got a few loose pages and the last page is torn near the spine. I carefully tore off the cover and was able to save the end pages which I'll reuse. I had to remove quite a bit of glue off the spine. I'll take the title page and use it to repair the torn last page. I gave the text block speckled edges with a maroon base to hide the browning of the page edges and added some bookmark ribbons. I remade the title page using vellum, had some soft 3/4 oz brown leather I acquired some time ago. 3/4oz is a bit thick for rebinding but since it's a soft cover it'll work. I just have to skive the edges so I can fold them over. I used heat transfer vinyl for the lettering. I have a Silhouette Cameo 4 for cutting the vinyl.

I looked for stainless but I couldn't source them. The websites would say all metal but when I inquired they would tell me they were aluminum.

I got a saddle in the shop a few weeks back for cleaning and some repair. The biggest issue I found were the Blevins buckles. Since they are made from aluminun they oxidized quite badly. Have yall ever seen them this bad?

It took me a bit to find them https://a.co/d/91CJigZ

I'm currently doing some book rebinds. My plan is to rebind and sell a few books from time to time. Generally books are rebound in 2oz leather and good quality binders boards for hardcover books. Going thicker than that makes it difficult to fold over the edges, going thinner means the leather will wear out faster. On my bench at the moment I'm rebinding a soft cover Bible. I'm going to use poster board and 2oz veg tan. You can probably do 5oz you'll just have to mitigate the curling of the leather after tooling.

Nice work!

Welcome to the forum! These are neat designs. They would sell fast at local fairs.

Nice work! Welcome to the forum!

Google image search says it's a Singer 7-33. https://www.google.com/search?vsrid=CMGasciNpZWkahACGAEiJDA3ZDlkMGM2LTVlMDMtNGRiYS04NThjLTA3NDMzYjljNzZhYTIGIgJnaCgKOIz6m8nV9o8D&vsint=CAIqDAoCCAcSAggKGAEgATojChYNAAAAPxUAAAA_HQAAgD8lAACAPzABEIAIGIAGJQAAgD8&udm=26&lns_mode=un&source=lns.web.gisbubb&vsdim=1024,768&gsessionid=24dj2mh4nfiLTSphHqJfHudhqACKQKBxlDVm2yspEKbM25XhmrRn0A&lsessionid=U9iFFpQDbhz8KncIZ7XjX8c_1DDP_O5CbKsLDwO4GzJa1yPHkLRbRA&lns_surface=26&authuser=0&lns_vfs=e&qsubts=1758897977399&biw=1920&bih=903&hl=en#vhid=v6WRbHUhptf8PM&vssid=mosaic Here's the pdf for it. The 7-31 is similar to the 7-33 and uses the same manual. http://hensewfiles.com/PDFs/SINGER 7-31.pdf

I would use Neatsfoot oil and either wax or a couple of coats of Resolene 50/50

These are two separate items; a grommet and a brass chain link. The grommets you can find pretty easily. The individual brass links are going to be harder to source. You can buy a brass chandelier chain and take off links as you need them. Make sure you get a good thickness so it doesn't pull apart.

There are no State or Federal exams or licenses here in the US. There are trade schools, apprenticeships, and self taught. I'm one of those self taught but I wouldn't take on jobs that are critical unless I know what I'm doing. I focus on small repairs and if I see something that needs a pros hand I'm not afraid to admit it. There's a couple saddlers in my area. One is an old timer that's been doing it since he was a kid and his father showed him. Another is around 30-40 and he was taught by his father and he was taught by his father. I tell people to go to them for major repairs.

I recently got a saddle into the shop for cleaning, inspection, and repairs along with a breastplate. I let the owner know about any the issues they don't know about. When it came to the breastplate I explained the bottom strap was severly cracked and should be replaced. They asked if I could just patch it and move on. I explaind that if one part of a strip is bad the rest is on it's way out. The cost to replace the whole piece and patching it would wind up being the same but with the patch there's a chance the old leather will fail. They agreed with the repair.

All the sites I find these are Japanese. One name I found them under is pattern clip but I cant find them in the US

You can use a utility knife and make multiple cuts to make straight cut appear curved. Instead of doing 3 or 4 cuts, which makes it look boxy, use 10.

The curb strap attaches to each side of the bit and sits under the mouth to apply leverage when the reins are pulled, amplifying the rider's signal. Yes, thank you. Many years ago I rode Hunt seat over fences and was getting into saddle seat but left the sport because life got in the way.

So is this nose band essentially like what a curb strap does, adding extra pressure around the muzzle instead of chin for better control?

It looks to me like the two circles the leather goes through are grommets that were painted. If you look at the edge of the patch there is a spot where the leather is thicker. I believe that's where the loop leather is anchored, much like you make a purse handle. it's tubular in the center and flat on the ends. It just passes through two grommets. It's a neat concept but I would worry if it can take the weight of the jacket for long. I guess if it's large enough it can be ok.

This is a great setup! Yes a laser cutter did the cutting but YOU told the laser where to put everything, YOU did the stitching, YOU put in the hardware, YOU worked the leather, and most importantly YOU came up with a great design.

Really great work!

@Northmount Great catch! When I worked at Toyota in KY I have to wear that type of belt for that exact reason. The ones we used had two prongs.

Quick note on airbrushing with ANY type of oil. Use a respirator because oils, when atomized, can cause lung issues. When I dye it's oil, dye, buff, finish. I oil with neatsfoot oil and let it sit until the oil is absorbed. How long it sits depends on the thickness of the leather. This allows the dye to spread evenly when applied. I then dye and let it sit for a day so the dye has time to spread evenly. I then buff any excess dye off. I then add my finish, usually Resolene diluted with water 50/50 or a wax.