BlackDragon

It's been working great. I haven't had any issues so far.

Great idea!

That's what I thought when I first saw it but I didn't know the name. You could always make these for kids shoes or swing dancers.

You're on the right path so far. You need to keep the top and bottom lines the same length. If you dont the brim and top would have to be resized. Your side angles have to change a little. All you have to is draw a line from your new top corner to your bottom corner on both sides. To be sure it works just mock it up and make sure your lines meet up.

Very nice!! You did great job!

It looks like Jim Linnell is using 10oz leather in that video. Even with his hands shaking he does fantastic work. Tooling on 3oz leather is possible but I wouldn't recommend it for a beginner, it would be an endeavor in frustration. Keeping the leather at the correct moisture level, the leather will warp, to name a couple, isn't great to start out with. Carving thin leather can result it cutting right through the leather. Find some scrap 8oz or thicker and learn to case properly before tooling/carving.

Make sure your leather is completely dry after tooling. My steps for dying. 1. Neatsfoot oil. You don't need a lot. It'll help distribute the dye evenly in the next step. Let sit for at least 12hr. 2. Apply dye, usually I use a sock or you can use a wool pad. Let it sit for min 12hrs. I avoid dabbers unless I can cover the piece in one or two swipes, like a bracelet or belt loop. Before going on to the next step make sure your project is dry. 3. The leather will be stiff after dyeing so work it a little. Gently bending it around, this allows the pores to open up and makes it more supple. It also lets your waxes or resolene get better penetration in the next step. 4. Apply either resolene or wax depending on the project or preference.

Most any vs. Tandy. Tandy leather is ok for beginners to try on but it's pretty inconsistent and can leave you frustrated when you're trying to improve. I haven't used Herman Oak but I do use Wickett & Craig and it's great leather for tooling.

I've worked in Japanese manufacturing for so long I fall into metric instead of Freedom unit more than I care to admit. https://maverickleathercompany.com/hide-thickness-conversion-chart/?gad_source=5

Welcome to the forum! When we talk about ounces it refers to the thickness of the leather. 1 ounce is .4mm, 2 ounces is .8mm, and you add .4mm for each ounce. So 5 ounces would be 2mm and 10 ounces would be 4mm thick There are a couple ways to secure leather. Sewing is the most popular, either hand stitching or machine. There are rivets and Chicago screws. Gluing, which is the weakest. we usually glue things together to keep them aligned when sewing. To do hand stitching you need a way to make the holes; diamond chisels, pricking irons, or an awl. Using a machine is usually a very high investment, normally in the thousands of dollars. Standard household sewing machines aren't designed to sew leather. The important question you need to answer is: What do you want to make? If you want to do leather upholstery you need different tools than if you want to make wallets, or horse equipment, or shoes. Can't really tell what your picture is. If it's a rivet I'm going to guess that it may be a Jiffy rivet.

Welcome back!

You definitely wont lose that in the grass They look great!

Why not just pour some resolene in a separate container instead of dipping out of the bottle, this way you don't contaminate your unused resolene?

It's difficult finding Camel leather because most searches are bringing back camel as a color. What I found so far in The Netherlands. https://www.artnamic.com/leathers/full-grain-camel-leather/ UAE https://akl.ae/market/

The four pencil grips came in and I eliminated the first 2 immediately. #1 was to narrow #2 was to narrow and weird #3 & 4 have holes that are to big for small stamps but they still show promise. They are both a dense foam but softer than holding the metal stamp. #3 I cut a wedge out so it could hold my thinest stamp. I could use grip strength to hold it onto the stamp but any time I lightened my grip the stamp would slide out so I temporarily put a piece of electrical tape and this worked great. I can also slide the stamp out and use it on another stamp thats the same diameter. #4 is pretty long so I cut it in half. It comes with a slit down the side so it works well with stamps the diameter of a pencil or thicker. If you use it on thin stamps you would need to cut a wedge like I did with #3. The difference between #3 & #4 is the thickness of the foam grip and that would be personal preference. With both grips if you slide them down to far it's hard to see where you're stamping. With #3 since it's tapered this is less of a problem. With #4 you can carve down the thickness. I'll be using both of these for stamping for the time being.

I think the yellow (by my screen) thread compliments the purple hues in the cardholder. It stands out in a good way. Sometimes people try to minimize the stitching in a project but I tend to make it part of the project, when appropriate.

Very nice, love the color!

For anyone needing a translation Hello! I work with restorations of old machines and recently acquired an old part, but I would like to know which machine this foot is from? If anyone can help me I would be very grateful

I totally forgot about this post so here's a little follow up. I went with Square. They now intergrate with woocommerce so I can better intergrate with my website. To add products to your POS device you got to their admin website and input all the information then it downloads it via the web to your device automatically. I use the hand held terminal, it lets me go on the road and it prints receipts. If I happen to be in an area without internet connection it store the info in the device until it gets connected.

Looks great!

I used to be a mod on a forum that had 250+k members and I know there is a lot going on in the background. I did a little forum maintenance and I don't envy you this task. Once the bones are fixed would it be possible to have a choice of backgrounds in the settings menu for those that like the classic view and those that like a modern look? Thanks and keep up the great work!

There is a thread why this is all happening. In summary the website was hacked Fri and they're trying to get everything working properly, aesthetics are the least of their worries right now.

Welcome to the forum!

They sell them in different materials like rubber, foam, silicon, etc. I figure if the hole is to small you could either drill through the hole to make it bigger or slice it the long way so it acts as a clamp. I just ordered four different types and I'll test them out. I did this with blue tape. Another issue with gluing is you have to do it to several stamps. So I'm going test out the ones I ordered and see if you can just take them off easily.

I wonder if a pencil grip would work.