BlackDragon

This is a neat idea. I can see these as a center piece for tables at a wedding. A guest could take it home as a rememberance.

Looks like a press for gommets? Edit* Funny enough my google search lead me to this

That's a rifle sling hook You can find them at Zack White's (1 3/4") or Weaver's (1") https://www.zackwhite.com/1-34-Solid-Brass-Rifle-Sling-Hook--H13SB_p_3084.html https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/39-rifle-sling-hook

When adding a liner to an area that is going to bend you should glue it while it's in a bent state. This will lessen the wrinkling in the liner. When I back stitch, after putting the machine in reverse I hand crank to make sure I get the needle in the correct hole. You only have to back stitch 3 or 4 holes.

Wow! This is beautiful!

I switched to a product called Martin's Mix. It works really well using a refillable felt tip marker. Just let it sit for a minute and it's good to go.

Gezzer I'm so sorry for your loss. My prayers are with you. The sling looks great! Nice, clean lines

I used to do quite a bit of photography but you wouldn't know it seeing my product shots. I really need to take the time to set up a proper photo area. Right now I do the same as you, take a pic on a counter and adjust using Raw Therapee, it a free program.

I use a rougher from tandy. https://tandyleather.com/products/craftool-pro-detail-rougher

Welcome to the forums! JH has good leather videos but if you want to get more in depth I'd go with Armitage Leather. He lays out the what and why you do things.

If you're talking about a cutting pattern I'll put the pattern on the leather and use a scratch awl to trace the pattern. If I'm going to use the pattern a few times I'll glue the paper to chipboard so it can withstand more use. If you're talking about a tooling pattern I use vellum paper and a stylus. You can draw directly on it, use a ink jet, or laser jet printer. Unlike regular paper it can take a little more abuse and doesn't fall apart as easily. It can also withstand getting a little damp. I did the tape thing for a little while but it took more time and waste than just buying the vellum paper. I paid $10 for 180 sheets.

Nice job! I like the way you added in the paracord.

Welcome to the forum!

You can order from other companies. There are few sellers for HO and W&C. I buy W&C directly from W&C. To buy HO from the company I believe you need to buy 5 sides at a time.

https://stleather.com/product/nylon-machine-thread-415/ The class 4 is designed to run 270 with a #25 needle. You will need a #28 needle and may be pushing the Class 4 with that thickness thread. You'll probably have to adjust your tension and your hook clearance

My guess is when the leather is being cut it's being squeezed first, which makes it expand. After the blades cut the leather relaxes and goes back to it's normal state which makes it narrower. It looks like you're losing 3/32". I'm surprised people are mentioning it. You can just tell people it's like buying a Quarter Pounder. The meat is weighed before cooking.

Unfortunately with auctions many people get emotionally attached to what they want. A stamp that may normally go for, let's say $50, can be driven up because someone just really wants it. I have been to auctions where people pay above full retail, plus taxes, plus auction fees. It could be the person was willing to pay the same as you but then figured "What's another $5?" When I go to auctions I look at things as "Can I turn a profit on this?" attitude. I may want to keep it myself but I look at the long term if I can. When I hang this up can I recoup my cost.

It's been working great. I haven't had any issues so far.

Great idea!

That's what I thought when I first saw it but I didn't know the name. You could always make these for kids shoes or swing dancers.

You're on the right path so far. You need to keep the top and bottom lines the same length. If you dont the brim and top would have to be resized. Your side angles have to change a little. All you have to is draw a line from your new top corner to your bottom corner on both sides. To be sure it works just mock it up and make sure your lines meet up.

Very nice!! You did great job!

It looks like Jim Linnell is using 10oz leather in that video. Even with his hands shaking he does fantastic work. Tooling on 3oz leather is possible but I wouldn't recommend it for a beginner, it would be an endeavor in frustration. Keeping the leather at the correct moisture level, the leather will warp, to name a couple, isn't great to start out with. Carving thin leather can result it cutting right through the leather. Find some scrap 8oz or thicker and learn to case properly before tooling/carving.

Make sure your leather is completely dry after tooling. My steps for dying. 1. Neatsfoot oil. You don't need a lot. It'll help distribute the dye evenly in the next step. Let sit for at least 12hr. 2. Apply dye, usually I use a sock or you can use a wool pad. Let it sit for min 12hrs. I avoid dabbers unless I can cover the piece in one or two swipes, like a bracelet or belt loop. Before going on to the next step make sure your project is dry. 3. The leather will be stiff after dyeing so work it a little. Gently bending it around, this allows the pores to open up and makes it more supple. It also lets your waxes or resolene get better penetration in the next step. 4. Apply either resolene or wax depending on the project or preference.

Most any vs. Tandy. Tandy leather is ok for beginners to try on but it's pretty inconsistent and can leave you frustrated when you're trying to improve. I haven't used Herman Oak but I do use Wickett & Craig and it's great leather for tooling.