SUP

@MasonLikesLeather Exacto knives have their limits but plain box cutters work well. You can keep changing blades, so you will always have a very sharp blade each time - a necessity in leatherwork. I prefer fixed blade ones because there is not the slightest jiggle as I cut.

@MasonLikesLeather, I just have to say this. So much information from so many of us! I would suggest, just take it easy, relax and do what makes your heart sing. Even if you make a tiny key-chain to start. No reason why you need to go for bigger things in the beginning. A cut piece of leather held together with a rivet - it gives a sense of accomplishment that matches or exceeds that from much more complicated projects done later on. So just jump in once you get your tools. Have fun!

@zuludog you are right that they are not top notch but they are not abysmally bad either. They work for a newbie, to get an idea of the craft. Besides the prices are low and even if half the items are discarded later, the price is such that, buying what remains in use individually, would still be more expensive than getting them as part of a set. And time consuming and a headache too! So at least for me, it was convenient and practical to get a kit as a beginner. Besides I was clueless and everything is bewildering when new to a craft.. .Getting a kit at least allowed me to stop worrying about what tools to get and allowed me to think about the leathers and what I wanted to make. I'm not sure of that. I mean, a bad stamp does not give clear results. A bad punch takes a dozen hammers for a single hole, and so on. Incidentally, @MasonLikesLeather, if you don't have a set of knife sharpening stones, I suggest you get them. Leather needs very sharp edges and some of us even sharpen the box cutters that we use (very useful for cutting leather). Different grits or just go to Temu and get their diamond sharpening stones - at a fraction of the cost of Amazon or elsewhere and they work as well, I find. So many of us giving you so much information! I am still new enough to remember how bewildered I was. Good luck.

@MasonLikesLeather, I started leatherwork as a hobby, last year in January. This is the kit I bought from Amazon. It is probably similar to ones you have listed. They all have more or less of the same items. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QY7CP72/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 I bought the kit because I did not have a clue what I wanted to do; just that I loved leather and wanted to work with it! I am happy with that purchase. It gave me a chance to determine what I would actually like to do before I bought more expensive tools. This set provided several items I have not needed to replace like the mat, the awl, the needles, scissors, snaps etc. The quality is fine for a newbie to get an idea of the craft. I did need to buy stitching chisels but those too I got from Amazon and they work fine. The very expensive ones are probably wonderful, but for me, as a hobbyist, the Aiskaer or Wuta or Owden (to which I am partial) work well enough that I have not needed to buy the more expensive ones. I do have new stamps but those are things you can buy if you decide to go down that route. Leatherwork, especially in the beginning, is a journey of discovery. Take your time and enjoy it. Also, the French style chisels give beautiful stitches, but to learn, the Japanese style ones are better. Saddle stitching takes a bit of practice to get beautiful stitches. Once you can get the angles with round or diamond shaped holes, you can get good stitches anywhere. No matter what you decide you want to make, saddle stitching is a basic leatherworking skill, needed everywhere. There are excellent videos teaching saddle stitching online and information about those videos on this forum.

You can get pre-cut leather belts in most leather stores. Then, it is just a matter of shaping ends, punching holes, edge finishing and adding the buckle. Store employees will guide you on tools needed. You can make any decorations that you like but you might want to practice first. Simple edge lines are easy to make, with edge creasers, for example and look elegant. As @Mulesaw said, you can get scraps - they are perfect for practice!

You could also try exploring leather stores near you. Not stores that sell ready made items but stores that sell supplies, like Tandy. You have not mentioned where you are located, else people might be able to guide you. Explore such stores and see what leathers you like and would like to work with. Employees in such stores are usually helpful and guide newbies well. They usually have kits available, check them, try them and go from there. @Mulesaw has given excellent information for a beginner's project and you should be able to get all the supplies for a belt in such stores. Besides all this, the internet is a great resource. You can learn absolutely everything from there but you have to put in the effort to search and explore - not just what you want to make but how to do it. Start small and simple.

@Sheilajeanne, Yes, shipping really adds to the cost, doesn't it? I believe Rocky Mountain leather supply has discounted rates for international shipping. There are a couple of others, if I remember correctly, but I've not bought anything from them.

Absolutely true! So we might hear about more store stores closing. Sad. I sometimes cannot help but think that management should work with the lower levels of employees to get an idea of the business. The same principles cannot always be applied everywhere.

She used to be the CFO. So not surprising.

Tandy has made more of their staff part-time, so many of the good, knowledgeable ones have left. The Tandy store near where I am, is one of the top 10 grossing stores and they too have just 2 staff members now, and that includes the manager. Naturally they are overworked. They have been looking for more staff but their pay is pretty low and they have not found anyone as yet. Their manager is new and has some great ideas. Hopefully, he will not lose interest and enthusiasm over time There is a new CEO now. Let's see what she does to increase staff morale and to recruit more people.

Sorry to hear that @Sheilajeanne. I hope you find a good alternative for your future leather purchases.

My dog insists on only eating what I eat, so I have to eat what is healthy for her! Healthy for me too, so its fine. She does not eat leather because i don't nibble on it. LOL. I tried giving her dog food that the vet says is good for her while I have my meals but she looks at it and comes and sits looking at me.

That is comprehensive. Thank you!

Weaver leather supply has a free video tutorial about making a mouse pad. You might get some information from it.

@Wepster Thank you. I need to look into replacing those handles. Swamped with other matters right now. Hope to get back in a couple of weeks when I will look into getting this. I appreciate your help.

Welcome to the group. I love what you are doing about horse equipment. I do not make any but I understand exactly what you explained. Each horse is different, just like we people are, and a proper fit will keep them comfortable. You clearly love horses. Good luck.

I use the Thread zap too but I got mine from Temu. It's one third the price for the same thing but it takes about 8-10 days to arrive. It's working fine and mine came with a spare tip. I always compare products and prices between Amazon and Temu. More and more Temu items seem to be appearing on Amazon at inflated prices.

Hello and welcome to the forum.

Great. I'm checking my leather sets this week.

Welcome to this forum @JPCox Checked your Instagram - your work is beautiful.

@Aven Thank you. I will look at it. It's fun to learn something new to me that is an old technique.

@Sheilajeanne Love that too!

I'll go get the Vaseline brand of PJ and see what happens.

OBSERVATIONS: FRONT BACK EDGE CONTROL S, WD0, TN; FD S,TN, FD S CM S, WD0, TS, FD S, TS, FD S PJ1 S-, WD, TN, FDRY S0, TN. FDRY S50, TN, FDRY PJ2 S-, WD, TN, FDRY S0, TN, FDRY S50, TN, FDRY PJM1 S, WD+, TS, FD+ S, TS, FD+ S PJM2 S, WD+, TS,FD+ S, TS,FD+ S The key: Soaking: S = heavily soaked. SL= lightly soaked S- = surface water absorption S0 = no water absorption. S50= half absorption Water droplets WD=water drops present WD0= no droplets WD+ = Many water droplets Feel of leather: FD = damp FDRY = dry Texture: TN Normal TS = soft Control: Soaked through no water drops on surface, not softened. Sides clearly soaked through as is the back. Control plus mineral oil: Darkened due to the oil, no water drops on surface, soaked through, sides and back are soaked as well. Noticeably softer. PJ1: Darkened due to PJ, Water drops on surface, surface water absorption, sides show water absorption on surface, back dry, texture unchanged. PJ2: Darkened due to PJ, Water drops on surface, surface water absorption, sides show water absorption on surface, back dry, texture unchanged. PJM1: Darkened due to PJ and MO, plenty of water drops on surface, complete water absorption, sides show complete water absorption, back show water absorption, texture soft, leather feels damp. PJM2: As for PJM1. CONCLUSIONS: It is clear that PJ does inhibit water absorption by leather, this inhibition being affected by other factors. Here, the mineral oil clearly decreased this water repellent effect. Petroleum Jelly is not absorbed by the leather. It remained on the surface. When applied on plain clean leather, it stays in place and is an effective repellent. When applied on top of mineral oil however, the 2 greasy materials slide against each other and the petroleum jelly being on the surface, probably did not spread well and possibly got drained away by heavy water drops and left the leather vulnerable. With a night of being exposed to heavy rain, the leather pieces with only PJ are still not soaked through. For short exposures, petroleum jelly appears to be a good water repellent. When and with what to use it and how to ensure it remains in place are the next questions. I will next try to see if warming the leather after petroleum jelly application helps. Unfortunately, although PJM1 and PJM2 both had plenty of water drops on the surface, they absorbed a lot of water as well. Need to see how to avoid that, other than not leave the leather out in torrential rain all night!

I kept several pieces of veg-tanned leather with petroleum jelly , which I shall now call PJ, in the rain. These results are after a night long, heavy exposure. It rained heavily overnight and I could check the leathers only in the morning..: I used 6 pieces of leather as follows: Petroleum Jelly Mineral oil Control. N/A N/A CM N/A Yes PJ1 Yes No PJ2 Yes No PJM1 Yes Yes PJM2 Yes Yes Observations and conclusions follow.