DieselTech

Nice repair job. Looks like you do quality work.

Should work fine. You might burn the coating off the can before using. Just hit it with your torch so the fumes & such burn off. That should help from contaminating your solder job.

Aluminum will work as a stop/stopper. Then you can solder it up. If you use aluminum foil make sure to fold it over multiple times to make it a thicker piece of aluminum foil.

Thanks for reporting back with your results. I have been wanting to try some, but I haven't yet. Maybe my next order I'll get a bottle or 2. Would you by chance show us your results? Thanks.

Nice snag! Deal of the day I would say.

I think Al Stohlman has some books on knife sheaths & pistol holsters & scabbard. Slickbald has a bunch of different patterns. On the knife sheaths I just get the knife from the owner & make a pattern from poster board in design they want. 6 shooter/cowboy revolvers I just use the gun again to make a pattern from poster board.

Maybe @CowboyBob can give you some helpful info. He knows his stuff.

Look at this design. This is what I would want for a sling shot pouch. I wish I new what they called the hinged hardware that is spring loaded to keep the pouch open or closed. I also included a pic of the hardware for the opening.

Looks nice! Is the watch strap your design as well?

Yeah I guess they are secretive on their thread. I heard of people saying it is junk thread, but I have not had no issues with their thread so far. Dog collars i made are a year + old & it is holding up fine. It has lost a Lil of its bright vibrant color, but not much.

I have seen 2 different listing for "M" bobbin size. 25mm by 11mm I also seen them listed as 27mm by 11mm

My "U" style bobbins are 28mm by 12mm if that helps any. That is on my cobra class 26. They are actually 27.95mm by 11.75mm to be exact.

I have heard that leather machine co. thread has a UV agent added to it. Maybe that is the cause. I also got some tandy bonded polyester 346 thread & totally had to readjust my 441 machine for it.

Looks good. Nice work. Yeah I been wanting some of Sergey stamps. Looks nice I would say you are doing just fine on your tooling. Does the high lighter just come in 1 color? Thanks.

Heck my are not either. But I post my stuff from time to time. I am just starting the leather carving adventure.

Ok @Yukonrookie I might have gave the antique the wrong name. This is what i use, but most of the time I hear it referred to as antique gel, so maybe I been misinformed. This is natural veg-tan with a resolene resist coat, then let dried & the antique gel/paste applied & let set 30minutes. Then i reapply resolene to remove most of the antique gel/paste. This leaves all the low spots darker/antique looking.

Yeah I was going to say I use the Fiebings antique gel. I like it. Don Gonzales has a good tutorial video on using the Fiebings antique gel & the application process he uses. This is what I adopted to use & usually turns out good.

1/8" lace testing successful! Works good. Not that I need 1/8" lace all the time. But at least now I can make it if needed. Few pics of the success.

Ok I got the final profile on my fingers. I also cut a slot in them so they can straddle the cutter blade. I am going to try & cut some 1/8" lace for a practice/testing round. I have cut 3/8" lace & it worked good. This finger modification is the ticket for this machine.

Ok this is crude as heck & redneck at its finest. Will the small letters stand up on there own? Like this 1st picture? If No. Then we will go to picture 2,3,&4 I'm using double sided router/pattern tape to hold the letters to the paint sticks. Granted they are too wide, only need to be about 3/8" width. So I laid out the letters, then double sided taped the paint sticks. Then I sandwiched the letters between the paint sticks to hold all the letters at once. I think 3/8" popsicle sticks would be perfect for this.

@billybopp recommended what I was going to say/recommend. You may have to build a jig to hold the dies. I been wanting 1 of their presses myself & when I do get 1 I will build a jig for my letter stamps. Give me a second & I'll get a pic posted that may or may not be of help. I mainly use the 1" stamps, so I'm not sure if this technique will work for the small letters.

What does your stamp style look like? Do they have the 3/8" socket that a stamping handle snaps into them? Also can we get a pic of the press you are using? Thanks.

@RockyAussie I'm hoping these pics show a bit better at what I'm going for. I made the fingers extra long in the back so they always hold themselves against the cutter bar shaft. I am still going to mill/cut a 1/8" slot in the finger so it will then straddle each side of the blade, that way I can cut/make lace. Heck maybe the way I'm doing it won't work? Idk till I try some cutting I guess.

The reason I had you try a piece to see if the spots would disappear from the dye job. & if the spots did not disappear after the dye job, I was going to say as others have mentioned. Iron contamination within the leather.

Well got the fingers dished out. Now I need to slot them. Not sure if I should use my router with a mortise jig. Or drag out the table saw to cut my slots.