DieselTech
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Everything posted by DieselTech
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Nice snag! Deal of the day I would say.
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I think Al Stohlman has some books on knife sheaths & pistol holsters & scabbard. Slickbald has a bunch of different patterns. On the knife sheaths I just get the knife from the owner & make a pattern from poster board in design they want. 6 shooter/cowboy revolvers I just use the gun again to make a pattern from poster board.
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Cowboy CB3200 and its "performance"
DieselTech replied to TonyGreen3455's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Maybe @CowboyBob can give you some helpful info. He knows his stuff. -
Look at this design. This is what I would want for a sling shot pouch. I wish I new what they called the hinged hardware that is spring loaded to keep the pouch open or closed. I also included a pic of the hardware for the opening.
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Looks nice! Is the watch strap your design as well?
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Yeah I guess they are secretive on their thread. I heard of people saying it is junk thread, but I have not had no issues with their thread so far. Dog collars i made are a year + old & it is holding up fine. It has lost a Lil of its bright vibrant color, but not much.
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I have seen 2 different listing for "M" bobbin size. 25mm by 11mm I also seen them listed as 27mm by 11mm
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My "U" style bobbins are 28mm by 12mm if that helps any. That is on my cobra class 26. They are actually 27.95mm by 11.75mm to be exact.
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I have heard that leather machine co. thread has a UV agent added to it. Maybe that is the cause. I also got some tandy bonded polyester 346 thread & totally had to readjust my 441 machine for it.
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Ok @Yukonrookie I might have gave the antique the wrong name. This is what i use, but most of the time I hear it referred to as antique gel, so maybe I been misinformed. This is natural veg-tan with a resolene resist coat, then let dried & the antique gel/paste applied & let set 30minutes. Then i reapply resolene to remove most of the antique gel/paste. This leaves all the low spots darker/antique looking.
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1/8" lace testing successful! Works good. Not that I need 1/8" lace all the time. But at least now I can make it if needed. Few pics of the success.
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Ok I got the final profile on my fingers. I also cut a slot in them so they can straddle the cutter blade. I am going to try & cut some 1/8" lace for a practice/testing round. I have cut 3/8" lace & it worked good. This finger modification is the ticket for this machine.
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Ok this is crude as heck & redneck at its finest. Will the small letters stand up on there own? Like this 1st picture? If No. Then we will go to picture 2,3,&4 I'm using double sided router/pattern tape to hold the letters to the paint sticks. Granted they are too wide, only need to be about 3/8" width. So I laid out the letters, then double sided taped the paint sticks. Then I sandwiched the letters between the paint sticks to hold all the letters at once. I think 3/8" popsicle sticks would be perfect for this.
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@billybopp recommended what I was going to say/recommend. You may have to build a jig to hold the dies. I been wanting 1 of their presses myself & when I do get 1 I will build a jig for my letter stamps. Give me a second & I'll get a pic posted that may or may not be of help. I mainly use the 1" stamps, so I'm not sure if this technique will work for the small letters.
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What does your stamp style look like? Do they have the 3/8" socket that a stamping handle snaps into them? Also can we get a pic of the press you are using? Thanks.
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@RockyAussie I'm hoping these pics show a bit better at what I'm going for. I made the fingers extra long in the back so they always hold themselves against the cutter bar shaft. I am still going to mill/cut a 1/8" slot in the finger so it will then straddle each side of the blade, that way I can cut/make lace. Heck maybe the way I'm doing it won't work? Idk till I try some cutting I guess.
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Strange grey spots on new veg tan?
DieselTech replied to Yukonrookie's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
The reason I had you try a piece to see if the spots would disappear from the dye job. & if the spots did not disappear after the dye job, I was going to say as others have mentioned. Iron contamination within the leather. -
Well got the fingers dished out. Now I need to slot them. Not sure if I should use my router with a mortise jig. Or drag out the table saw to cut my slots.
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Thanks for the pictures & the vote of confidence. I much appreciate it. Thanks. Lmao I think there must be $25-$30 worth of washers they used. I take it you got more than 1 strap cutter. I think I seen some pics of 1 you might have restored.
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@RockyAussie do you think this will be OK. I kinda took your advice on making the fingers longer. I did not see or think they needed to be made out of stainless steel or aluminum. What's your thoughts? Lmao did I waste my time & material? Thanks.
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Next I want to dish out the cutter fingers so they pass by the cutter blades. Also going to put a 1/8" slot in them so you can put the cutter finger over the blade for cutting/making lace. I added a couple more pics. To kinda help show what I'm shooting for.
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Guys & gals I bought the TandyPro strap cutter machine. It is a nice machine, cuts 14-16oz saddle skirting like butter. But what sucks a big fat egg is the cutter blade separating plates. They used a 140 washers to separate them & to hold them in place when the jam nut is tightened. Needless to say it is stupid. So decided to do some mods. I was going make the separation plates out of stainless or aluminum bar stock. But changed my mind, & decided to use UHMW bar stock. I think this will be sufficient. Started with 3/4" x 3/8" milled UHMW bar stock & cut 8 4" long pieces. Then traced the separation plate tapered end profile on the 4" long uhmw bars I cut. Then I drilled a 10mm hole at 2¼" so they would be top or bottom heavy depending on how you install them. I want the heavy end at the top so the cutter separation plates/bars always swing towards the cutter blades/bar. I will have a few more pics tomorrow on the final product/modifications. Here a couple pics of what I'm doing.