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DieselTech

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Everything posted by DieselTech

  1. Nice snag! Deal of the day I would say.
  2. I think Al Stohlman has some books on knife sheaths & pistol holsters & scabbard. Slickbald has a bunch of different patterns. On the knife sheaths I just get the knife from the owner & make a pattern from poster board in design they want. 6 shooter/cowboy revolvers I just use the gun again to make a pattern from poster board.
  3. Maybe @CowboyBob can give you some helpful info. He knows his stuff.
  4. Look at this design. This is what I would want for a sling shot pouch. I wish I new what they called the hinged hardware that is spring loaded to keep the pouch open or closed. I also included a pic of the hardware for the opening.
  5. Looks nice! Is the watch strap your design as well?
  6. Yeah I guess they are secretive on their thread. I heard of people saying it is junk thread, but I have not had no issues with their thread so far. Dog collars i made are a year + old & it is holding up fine. It has lost a Lil of its bright vibrant color, but not much.
  7. I have seen 2 different listing for "M" bobbin size. 25mm by 11mm I also seen them listed as 27mm by 11mm
  8. My "U" style bobbins are 28mm by 12mm if that helps any. That is on my cobra class 26. They are actually 27.95mm by 11.75mm to be exact.
  9. I have heard that leather machine co. thread has a UV agent added to it. Maybe that is the cause. I also got some tandy bonded polyester 346 thread & totally had to readjust my 441 machine for it.
  10. Looks good. Nice work. Yeah I been wanting some of Sergey stamps. Looks nice I would say you are doing just fine on your tooling. Does the high lighter just come in 1 color? Thanks.
  11. Heck my are not either. But I post my stuff from time to time. I am just starting the leather carving adventure.
  12. Ok @Yukonrookie I might have gave the antique the wrong name. This is what i use, but most of the time I hear it referred to as antique gel, so maybe I been misinformed. This is natural veg-tan with a resolene resist coat, then let dried & the antique gel/paste applied & let set 30minutes. Then i reapply resolene to remove most of the antique gel/paste. This leaves all the low spots darker/antique looking.
  13. Yeah I was going to say I use the Fiebings antique gel. I like it. Don Gonzales has a good tutorial video on using the Fiebings antique gel & the application process he uses. This is what I adopted to use & usually turns out good.
  14. 1/8" lace testing successful! Works good. Not that I need 1/8" lace all the time. But at least now I can make it if needed. Few pics of the success.
  15. Ok I got the final profile on my fingers. I also cut a slot in them so they can straddle the cutter blade. I am going to try & cut some 1/8" lace for a practice/testing round. I have cut 3/8" lace & it worked good. This finger modification is the ticket for this machine.
  16. Ok this is crude as heck & redneck at its finest. Will the small letters stand up on there own? Like this 1st picture? If No. Then we will go to picture 2,3,&4 I'm using double sided router/pattern tape to hold the letters to the paint sticks. Granted they are too wide, only need to be about 3/8" width. So I laid out the letters, then double sided taped the paint sticks. Then I sandwiched the letters between the paint sticks to hold all the letters at once. I think 3/8" popsicle sticks would be perfect for this.
  17. @billybopp recommended what I was going to say/recommend. You may have to build a jig to hold the dies. I been wanting 1 of their presses myself & when I do get 1 I will build a jig for my letter stamps. Give me a second & I'll get a pic posted that may or may not be of help. I mainly use the 1" stamps, so I'm not sure if this technique will work for the small letters.
  18. What does your stamp style look like? Do they have the 3/8" socket that a stamping handle snaps into them? Also can we get a pic of the press you are using? Thanks.
  19. @RockyAussie I'm hoping these pics show a bit better at what I'm going for. I made the fingers extra long in the back so they always hold themselves against the cutter bar shaft. I am still going to mill/cut a 1/8" slot in the finger so it will then straddle each side of the blade, that way I can cut/make lace. Heck maybe the way I'm doing it won't work? Idk till I try some cutting I guess.
  20. The reason I had you try a piece to see if the spots would disappear from the dye job. & if the spots did not disappear after the dye job, I was going to say as others have mentioned. Iron contamination within the leather.
  21. Well got the fingers dished out. Now I need to slot them. Not sure if I should use my router with a mortise jig. Or drag out the table saw to cut my slots.
  22. Thanks for the pictures & the vote of confidence. I much appreciate it. Thanks. Lmao I think there must be $25-$30 worth of washers they used. I take it you got more than 1 strap cutter. I think I seen some pics of 1 you might have restored.
  23. @RockyAussie do you think this will be OK. I kinda took your advice on making the fingers longer. I did not see or think they needed to be made out of stainless steel or aluminum. What's your thoughts? Lmao did I waste my time & material? Thanks.
  24. Next I want to dish out the cutter fingers so they pass by the cutter blades. Also going to put a 1/8" slot in them so you can put the cutter finger over the blade for cutting/making lace. I added a couple more pics. To kinda help show what I'm shooting for.
  25. Guys & gals I bought the TandyPro strap cutter machine. It is a nice machine, cuts 14-16oz saddle skirting like butter. But what sucks a big fat egg is the cutter blade separating plates. They used a 140 washers to separate them & to hold them in place when the jam nut is tightened. Needless to say it is stupid. So decided to do some mods. I was going make the separation plates out of stainless or aluminum bar stock. But changed my mind, & decided to use UHMW bar stock. I think this will be sufficient. Started with 3/4" x 3/8" milled UHMW bar stock & cut 8 4" long pieces. Then traced the separation plate tapered end profile on the 4" long uhmw bars I cut. Then I drilled a 10mm hole at 2¼" so they would be top or bottom heavy depending on how you install them. I want the heavy end at the top so the cutter separation plates/bars always swing towards the cutter blades/bar. I will have a few more pics tomorrow on the final product/modifications. Here a couple pics of what I'm doing.
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