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  1. Hi there, I am wondering if somebody could enlighten me on this subject. I bought Fiebings Antique Paste in NEUTRAL and can not figure out what is the purpose of this thing. It does not give any color, not even light tone or shade, it looks just like some finish. And do I need to put actual finish on top of this? So what do you guys use this neutral antique for? Thank you! Era
  2. I found some old tools from my Great grand father. Unfortunately he died, so did my grand father and father. I heard he was a shoe maker. Can anyone identify the brand of the awl, I can't make anything from it ? Maybe it helps if I mention I live in belgium. Thx in advance Bert
  3. I've got TONS of unique, one-off leather for sale. A range of sizes and colors and finishes, great for small projects. I'm about to list some large hides in addition to the small and medium I have for sale. Right now I'm posting on eBay but would love to sell direct. Here is the eBay link- Better photos coming soon too! There are MANY more than shown below. Email me:
  4. ScottySpottyBelts

    Vintage alphabet spots needed!!

    I am just getting into antique leather restoration, etc. and I have a problem. I have a nice "motorcycle" or "western" belt from the 1940s and at some point it lost it's name, which was "FORTUNE" in what would have been yellow brass or chromed brass letters. I have been searching all over the web for alphabet spots but those currently available are not of the right design or size to reproduce the name. Ace Western Belts in Japan appears to reproduce these, but the cost is high and I am not sure the size is right. The original letters were 7/16" tall, or nearly half an inch. Communication with these folks is not easy because of the language barrier. So, does anyone have any letters I could buy that I could use to finish this belt? The photo of the actual belt shows other losses which I have fixed, but so far I cannot get those letters! I am also looking at restoration of this type to be an ongoing effort, so I am also looking for a source of vintage spots and jewels for future projects. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!!!
  5. Hi there, I have just finished a new leather case for my phone. I'm curious about an issue that I encounter on all my projects: I like to carve flowers and try to make a few deep pear shader marks. When I apply some antique (Fiebing Antique Finish or Tandy Hi-Lite, used as an antique), it never stays into the petals (see picture attached). My dream is to achieve something closer to this: Beautiful and subtle shades. I'm quite far from this result Here is my routine after tooling & dying, do I do something wrong? - I apply 2 coats of Tandy's super sheen or, more frequently, Fiebing's Resolene (60% Resolene / 40% water), with a little spray bottle. I rapidly swipe with a piece of coton wool, to prevent the "bubbles" of resist to make stains on the leather. Let it dry several hours between the 2 coats, and after the 2d one. - I apply some antique (Fiebing's paste or Tandy's Hi-Lite): I put a glove on and spread the product all over the leather piece with my fingers, then remove the excess with paper towel, trying to go horizontal. Let it dry and buff. - I apply another coat of resist, sometimes 2. Most of the time, the antique tends to blend :-( My guess: maybe I don't carve deep enough? Maybe my way of doing this is all wrong? I thank you in advance for your help and suggestions! Sophie
  6. I was watching a video today on YouTube by my favorite leatherworker. He was using a metal roller on leather to depress the saddle stitching into a groove. I thought it was so cool. I grabbed my tin of antique sofa rollers, some wood for a chair I'm restoring, six metal ones and 3 hard plastic ones from the 40s. I dumped them in a pickle solution on the side of my cooker, and in about 30 minutes brushed them clean and buffed them, took some old wood handles for my round wood files, used the wood files to enlarge the holes a bit and put them in. I love it when I can find stuff around here to use that I need not spend money on.
  7. Wallyworld

    Can you Identify this machine?

    I am a rookie so please bear with me. I am starting to go through my dad's old business to sell his estate. He purchased an old hardware store business 40 years ago. The hardware store itself is maybe 100 years old. In one of the storage sheds way in the back I came across what looks to be a type of sewing machine. When I asked my mom, she recalls the realtor telling her it was used on horse collars and other horse "gear". I won't be able to get better pictures until April as that is when we start cleaning out the 28x50ft shed. I had to walk on top of boxes, old machinery, etc. just to get back to this. There is other horse related gear in another storage shed so this is plausible. The unit is on a stand with the Champion shoe markings. Not shown in the picture is the unit is powered by what looks like a bicycle type peddles. My family is looking to sell this but would like to know as much history as possible before doing so. Can someone point me in the right direction? Including what to look for/identify to somehow estimate a decent selling price and to who? Let me know if you need additional pics.
  8. Please help ID this machine. Front flywheel like a Frobana ...but too much difference???? Swiss made. does anyone have a manual? The curved needle is really a hook to pull the bottom thread to the top where it engages the upper billhook and shuttle/bobbin holder. Bottom thread is held in 2 "fingers" which present the bottom thread to the needle/hook. how do I adjust the needle to catch the bottom thread it just misses.
  9. Hello, can somebody identify that sewing machine? It looks quite cool and heavy duty but I can't find any information about the producer. Thank you for your help. Regards
  10. This piece has a really nice finish that I'd like to duplicate. I haven't done any antiquing before but I've read some notes on here. I'm a little confused about how to get the look if I've already dyed/painted with Acrylic (Angelus)? Do I still need to resist, or does acrylic do that for me? Any guesses on the products? Fiebrings and Tan-Kote?
  11. Hello! I recently came across the work of La Geuse on DeviantArt and love her "gradient" esque finishes where the dye is darker on the edges. I used to achieve this affect on cosplay pieces before I started working with leather by applying a dark wash and wiping away, but I want to know how to get this finish using leather dye. I make armored corsets and a lot of heavy armor for SCA and would love to achieve a similar finish on my work. My confusion comes from if her finish is achieved by airbrushing on a darker color of dye on the edges (or thinning angelus paints to do this) OR if this is some form of antiquing. I am coming to leather from the cosplay world, and while my construction is pretty good I am looking to heavily improve my dyeing process. Thanks all! Pictures are not mine, all c redit to La Geuse on DeviantArt.
  12. Leebroox

    My 4th Project

    So I did this recently for my Son for his birthday. I'm new to leather. I started about 4 or 5 months ago. This is my fourth leather project and I am in need of some serious critiques. I struggle most with dyeing and coloring to get the effect or results I want. Any pointers or constructive criticism is very welcomed. Thanks and Cheers, Leland
  13. Hello! I recently came across the work of La Geuse on DeviantArt and love her "gradient" esque finishes where the dye is darker on the edges. I used to achieve this affect on cosplay pieces before I started working with leather by applying a dark wash and wiping away, but I want to know how to get this finish using leather dye. I make armored corsets and a lot of heavy armor for SCA and would love to achieve a similar finish on my work. My confusion comes from if her finish is achieved by airbrushing on a darker color of dye on the edges (or thinning angelus paints to do this) OR if this is some form of antiquing. I am coming to leather from the cosplay world, and while my construction is pretty good I am looking to heavily improve my dyeing process. Thanks all! Pictures are not mine, all credit to La Geuse on DeviantArt.
  14. Hello everyone! I've searched through the forums for an answer to my issue, but couldn't find anything so here goes! If it has been answered elsewhere, my apologies for starting a new thread. I'm new here and am constantly trying to improve my skills and tooling/painting on my weightlifting belts. My most recent endeavor is trying to figure out how to make my white paint remain white after antiquing. I tool, dye, paint (angelus acrylic), then coat with 1 or 2 coats of angelus acrylic finisher. I use black antique mostly because it goes with anything, the more natural tones don't fit in with my work. Basically, as you can guess, the black antique doesn't come off clean enough, and leaves a nasty tone on the white. I use Eco flo gel antique. See attached, an idol of mine's great work - and how white his paint comes out after finishing! Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks so much!
  15. Hello folks ! Something weird is happening.. a while ago I was making a wallet, as the newbie I am with very little experience using other products than Sheen and dyes, I decided I wanted to use antique finish, medium brown (fiebing's that comes in the little plastic jar) and so I did and after noticing that it wasn't such a good idea I tried rubbing it off with water , and somehow that worked but not quite, it brought off most of the stains but it really took some in , to the point "of no return" with water at least, and so I got frustrated, abandoned the project because it was ruined and left it for a while. A little over week ago I found it again and decided I'd dye it black and I did , it was great , the part I didn't use the paste on took the dye well but that part that did , it's sort of dye proof , water proof , everything proof , I tried dyeing it once , I left it to dry for 36 hours , I tried to buff it to add some super sheene , and the black came off several parts returning some huge spots to their natural color pretty much , and I tried dyeing it around 2 more times , same result every time , later I thought I just needed some deglazing , I read on here I could use rubbing alcohol , I don't really have access to a shop at the moment and probably won't til a week from now so is there anything I can do to replace deglazing? First I tried neatsfoot oil , it took it (from what I saw) , the dye came right off , tried rubbing alcohol 3 times , when it dried the last time , I tried wetting it (I read on here that it can help absorb dye) but still still didn't work , but it made me notice that my item is pretty much waterproof, water stays over it like nothing, does not bother to absorb What can I do ? Thank y'all in advance, good luck to anyone who's got the storm thing coming at them
  16. Does anyone have a preference over paste vs liquid antique stain? Why?
  17. Hi! First of all - sorry for my english, i know it's bad So, today i saw a nice carved leather wallets, with freaking amazing dying technique. Now i can't sleep because i need to know how to get these colours. I think its not spirit dyes, seems like water based or acrylic used with some snain ot acrylic gel (i dont know), but, its so vintage, and lean, yes, its looks old, but clean. Do you have any ideas, or maybe you know this technique? Maybe you can give some advise of dye brand?..God, that's make me mad...
  18. stormdevil

    Problems using Antique Gel

    Hi I'm trying to use antique gel but it doesn't seem to work. I've got a test piece I'm using. I stamped the leather with a few stamps, then I dyed with a water based dye and allowed to dry overnight. Now I follow the instructions on the eco-flo antique gel: Apply liberally, rub in, wipe off with a soft cloth. (I didn't resist because I didn't mind if colour overall colour changed) I know the gel is supposed to stay in the impressions, but when I wipe everything comes off. Tried again, applied, waited 1 minute, wiped off, and again it all wipes off. It's not a heavy tool impression, because it's a thin piece of leather and I didn't want to go through. Any thoughts?
  19. Hey all, I'm getting a bit confused in the dyes and antiques you can buy from Fiebings. I'm using the spirit based (regular) ones at the moment, since they have many more colors available for this one in my favourite webshop. Though they also sell the pro oil dye, what's you experience in their difference? And their Acrylic dyes, how are these different? does this compare to the Cova from Eco-flo? (So, more of a surface dye which gives this very bright 'unnatural' color as if you're using your leather as a canvas?) I'm also wondering about their antiques. My webshop sells two types of Fiebings antiques; Antique leather stain (Water-soluble antique finish on acrylic base) and Fiebing's antique finish. Is there anybody who an explain the difference in these? I'm using Eco-flo antique paste at the moment, and am generally quite happy with it. Does either one of Fiebings resemble this? Thanks in advance and sorry for all the noob questions.
  20. I bought an airbrush and wanted to try using it to spray on my finishes. The airbrush finishes great on dyed pieces, but when i try to use it on antiqued finishes, it causes the antique to pool together and make the project look permanently smudged and "dirty". I can't quite figure out what I'm doing to cause this as I have searched this forum and found that airbrushing an antiqued finish turns out quite nicely. Here are my steps: I tool my leather Let Dry Apply a coat of Tan Kote Let Dry Apply Sheridan Brown Antique paste made by Fiebing's. Let dry/set for a while. Buff Then apply another coat of Sheridan Brown Antique Paste made by Fiebing's Let dry/Set for a while (in the case of the picture, days) Buff Try the Spray finish with Eco Flo Professional Finish Clear Gloss It still turns out looking like this. it does the same for application with a brush. it causes it to look dirty and streak. Would love some pointers. Thank you.
  21. I just finished up a restoration project I've been working on for several months, rebuilding and repainting a Singer 96-10. I'm in the process of fine-tuning him at the moment, but before I call it good, I want to ask the community a question. For anyone that owns / has used a gear-driven 95 or 96 class, do you notice the whizzing of the gears during use? I didn't actually sew with this guy very much before dissasembly, so I can't recall if I could hear the gears back then. When I was assembling him, I couldn't get sound from the gears to completely disappear. I got it quiet, but when he's running at speed, there's a definite whizzing noise. The teeth on these gears are just straight, not helical or hypoid, so I don't expect the sound to be non-existant... but I'm surprised it's making as much noise as it is. If you don't notice the sound of the gears, there's a couple things I can think of checking: I haven't packed enough grease in the gear boxes they need to be aligned in a specific way, with the correct teeth mating at the right spot they simply haven't been adjusted to quite the right spot. Should anyone have something to say on the matter, I would appreciate it! The results of my work: During reassembly
  22. Trying to locate any information on this shotgun shell bandolier. My intention is to harvest the parts and make a new belt so I can put it back to use. I want to check first to see if there is any information out there on these types of belts and if there is any reason not to remake it into a serviceable piece of gear. It fits 12 gauge shells and has no makers mark or any indications as to who made or manufactured it.
  23. An old freind of mine found a beautiful antique elastic leather repair machine, and he really wants to get it back into operating condition. Problem is we have no idea what kind of machine this is. I cant find alot of information on the machine but will be having a better look at it tonight. I would like to know who manufactured this machine and if there is any availability on parts. Maybe model #, year, maker, anything to help with my search. Thanks
  24. MidwestMission

    Champion Leather Work Needles For Machine

    I need replacement needles for some leather repairers we have at our MISSION. Our Volunteers use Champion (no model visible) Needles printed on side ICH 12 C, or ICH 12 O? Sizes are 2.25" long, .078" Round or metric equiv. of 5.715 cm 0.19812 cm Any help would be great, thanks! Brad E Walton II 217-418-3593
  25. Young Leather

    Antique- Extra Finish?

    First off, I apologize for any mistakes made in this post, I am a very young and inexperienced leather worker. I am making a simple wallet that has 4 pieces of leather total, doesn't fold, and only has 3 slots total. I have made more complicated for others, but for me, I like simple. I dyed the leather with antique, using no resist as I wanted the antique affect and the saddle tan colour. Do I need to put on another finish over the antique like super sheen to seal it in, or can I leave it as is? Most likely the wallet will get plenty of sweat on it, and go in and out of my jeans pocket regularly. If another overcoat to "seal" it is needed, is there anything that I can use that won't give it the super glossy, shiny finish that super sheen does? Here is a picture: