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Showing results for tags 'belt'.
Found 251 results
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Landis Belt Press that I bought in Canada directly from Landis factory and I refurbished it cosmetically. This machine is 110V electric and will punch all belt holes and tip of belt with ease. The current die is the original and comes with the sale but this machine needs a new die made. Everything works great, but again, the die needs replacing which you can have made by Campbell-Randall for $350-$400. Motor is very strong, has fresh paint and oiled well. This is a very rare machine and I have never found one like it. Used in my belt shop but need to make room in shop for bigger equipment. Foot pedal and hand operation methods (they are interlinked so operate as you choose. Asking $3800. Must pick up or YOU arrange for it to be picked up. I can crate to for you for $200. This is a rare and reliable piece of machinery for your leather shop. Don't let it pass you by. Questions? Please reply to post thanks! My zip code is 90731 which is where this machine is located.
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Hi guys I'm after some advice on ways to improve my belt making and was wondering if anybody had any suggestions on things I could try? One of the tricky bits is that I like to have the entire belt dyed. I really dislike it when only the surface is died so when you punch holes or look at the back of the belt its a different colour. Also I like to stitch the entire perimeter of the belt, to me that's what turns a functional strap into a belt. These make it hard as I end up dying the belt at the end so I can easier see my stitch marks and as I don't want the awl to cause any veg tan to show through. Its also hard trying to figure out what to stitch where so it all flows together with the perimeter stitching. I know I could use rivets to keep the buckle & keeper in place and this is fine on 'biker' style belts but for 'dress' belts I think stitching is the best option. This is my current order of steps: Cut tip end Measure Cut buckle end Chamfer edges Groove stitches Mark Stitches Wet form buckle end Awl buckle end Dye buckle end Oil + seal buckle end suede side Stitch buckle end Awl and stitch rest of belt Dye whole belt Oil whole belt Burnish belt Seal belt Buff belt I have a wing divider and stitching chisels on their way to me to try instead of grooving and using and overstitch wheel. I was also wondering if anyone had any templates for the buckle and tip ends? I have a friend who's going to help me draw up some cad images for these and get them laser cut so I can have some good reusable templates but some starting images for spacing ideas would be good. Eventually I want to build a collection of images/templates for all different combinations of English point, rounded, 5 holes, 7 holes, round holes, oval hole, buckle stitched, buckle riveted etc etc. I know the stitching isn't fantastic but here is the most recent one I finished and the one which has really prompted me to want to improve.
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I am the owner and maker for Franklins Handmade and I do quite a bit of beading. I want to start making belts with the beaded inlay but I don't know how to. Thanks!
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Hello, I was wondering if there is a good/simple method for lacing the end of a belt together to hold the buckle in? I need something that is very strong and will withstand the test of time. I was thinking possibly of doubling up on the lacing. In this case would you lace a boxstitch pattern? How would you finish it so the lace doesn't just come unravelled ? Thanks!
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I have only posted once on here but I figured that I would try to start doing it more often whenever I finish projects. Here are some pictures of the most recent belt that I finished. I had a lot of issues with this one, I'm not sure if it was because I tried a new adhesive or if it was the oil dye that I used. It turned out okay but it's not my best work.
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Does anyone know of just a really good, simple visual aide showing how to attach a Sam Browne buckle and hook, and how to figure out where that stud goes? Maybe I'm just dense or too new, but I'm stumped here. -
This is the latest belt I made for a friend. Just thought I would share. If the pattern looks familiar, it's because I am still waiting on my mail order art degree from Nigeria and have not drawn one of my own. Mark -
First picture post. I started leatherworking about 5 years ago, didn't start making more than about one or two things a year until this year. I thought I would share, and welcome any critique as I am still in the early stages of learning. Thank you. A belt I made over the weekend. -1 1/2" with a smooth thin strap sewn to the back -Antique Dark Brown over Cordovan Background Mark
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I am starting a leather belt company in London I need help making a quality leather belt with a similar design to the attached image (the buckle is a Sam-Browne buckle). I am located in London and would like to work with a manufacturer in the UK or Europe but not much farther. I would like this to start as soon a spossible and would appreciate if we could meet in person, hence closeness being a beneficial factor. And tips, links and/or advice would be much appreciated!!! Belt Info.pdf
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Hi everyone! I haven't posted much on here yet... I normally just use the forum for searching for patterns, advice, etc. I wanted to post a belt that I made for my Grandpa. Apparently he had a "PLUCKY" belt when he was in his 20's that he wore forever, but it doesn't fit him anymore, so I made him a new one. He didn't want a liner; my g-pa is old school and said that the leather belts you buy in a store today don't feel like real leather (because they're lined, and he wants to be able to feel the flesh side). However, I like to reinforce my belts, and he was fine with it being lightly lined to give it a little bit extra stiffness. Because I'm a semi-newbie, everything is hand-stitched. Yes, it took forever, but I think it turned out okay. Constructive criticism welcomed -Melinda
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3Hor4xhau0 This is a video I did to show how I line up holes for punching on straps . belts. I hope this helps someone.
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Here are a couple photos of the Celtic knotwork belt I just finished. Shown with it is a belt pouch I also made, though that was a while ago. -
Made this for a gal who is going back to school for sewing. She didn't want to haul her scissors and tools in a bin from classroom to classroom, so this should work for her. This was a fun project. Hand sewn, no pattern, custom design. Thanks for looking. Our shop is on instagram now: search manypawz
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Tooled Holster And Belt
queenslander posted a topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Made for a colt 45 with 2 layers of 6-7oz veg tan -
My first belt. After having the ends rip off, sagging, stretching and general repeated failures of my "Genuine Leather" belts I decided to make my own. Two layers of 7oz Herman Oak. Weld bond red can contact cement and 1mm black tiger thread. Beaver tails were inlayed and the belt was made grain side out on both sides. Dyed with Fiebings black pro oil dye and top coated with future floor finish cut 50% and sprayed on thru my airbrush. Required 7 thread changes or seven sections of thread to complete the belt. This was my first time doing something that I had to start new thread before it was complete. I just left the needles hang at the end of the run and started a new set of needles and thread. I delt with all of the thread clipping when I was completely done with the belt. I simply started the new thread two holes back (backstsitch) and locked everything this together that way. The belt holds my biggest handgun with ease. It creaks a lot but that will lessen as it breaks in. I'm quite surprised at how much nicer my handguns stay in position. I really learned a lot doing this belt. When you are a healthy eater you get lots of practice saddle stitching. Inlays make the belt custom fit to you. Three inlays means it has to fit or nothing is symmetrical. I know why fat Cowboys have their names centered over a hip instead of under the center belt loop now. -
I wanted to share this video my wife just shot of me in my shop. Hope you enjoy and are inspired to hand craft the finest leather products you can!
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A friend was critiquing some belts of mine, made mostly using 3D stamps, and pointed out that if it looks easy, like anyone could buy a couple stamps and do it, the value is lower. But if it look like original art, the worth increases. So, being a literalist, I decided to salute Piet Mondrian, and came up with these designs. Let me know your thoughts, including pricing. Thanks, Scott -
Hello, I am fairly new to leatherworking and have mostly been teaching myself through trial and error. I started by making single piece holsters for some of my revolvers and then moved on to two piece "high-ride" style holsters for automatics. I had been pretty happy with my beginner results and thus, with those few creations as my only experience, decided to move on to a more challenging project, a complete western style holster and belt rig. It wasn't long before I realized I was still lacking in some basic principles. I started making 2 1/4" double layer belt out of two ~7oz strips that I cut with a strap cutter out of a double shoulder. The leather was the Crafstman Oak brand from Tandy. The straps were cut in the "left leg to right leg" direction. The resulting double strap was very thick, but not noticeably more than some of the other professionally made belt rigs that I had on hand. I dyed the strips with Fieblings Oil based dye in saddle tan. My intention was to leave the inside strap natural, but after dripping some dye on both pieces I elected to dye them both, possibly part of my error. I glued the two together using ECO-FLO leathercraft cement and set let it set overnight under a weighted down board. The following day I removed the piece and bent it around my waist. While doing so the inside leather piece instantly formed wrinkles. It was permanently damaged, as if the epidermis pulled away from the rest of the skin. I went on to make some smaller test pieces using some different techniques. Some with both layers dyed, some natural on the inside, some with the leather cement, some with contact cement...In the end they all showed some deforemation of the inside layer. The dyed ones were worse, but even the natural leather showed some wrinkling, certainly more than on any of my purchased double layer belts, which can be bent fairly tight without any effects. As you can see in the photo, I stubornly went ahead and punched holes for stiching, but stopped before completing because it looked too bad and was getting worse the more I moved it. What am I missing? Is it the leather? Is there much difference in the budget stuff that tandy sells vs something more expensive? Did this cow have low collagen? I found a few posts of similiar issues. This one it was led me to this forum: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=51994 which is on a single piece of leather, and didn't seem to have much resolution. Once I made an account here I did some further searching and found this post: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=62389&hl=wrinkles which looks similar, however the consensus here was that it was cut from a belly piece, and mine is from a shoulder. I suppose they could both be cases of bad leather, but before I spend money on something new I want to make sure I am not doing something incorrectly or not doing something at all. Any direction y'all can give would be appreciated. Thanks a lot.
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So I finally gave in and tried selling one of my leather projects on Etsy, a tooled leather belt, every aspect of it hand done, and I put it up to sell to help fund my other leather purchases as I am living on a college budget, but my issue is it hasn;t sold yet and I am wondering if there is something that is unappealing about it, is the price to high? The workmanship not good enough? Or could it be just that I don't have a reputable name yet. Looking for any comments or advice, good and bad. Please let me know. Here's the link: https://www.etsy.com/listing/222050831/handmade-western-floral-hand-tooled?ref=shop_home_active_2 -
I installed a speed reducer and adjusted the tension on the belts, but I'm finding that the belt between the motor and the speed reducer slips quite a bit. The speed reducer has a baked on epoxy paint. I was thinking about sanding the paint off of the pulley where the belt touches, but thought I would ask if anyone has any slick tricks to try before I do that. If I go any tighter on the belt tension, I'm afraid I'll burn out the bearings. Gary
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Hey guys I am a 22 year old out of Seattle, WA and I just started my own small business called Raw Leather Goods LLC. I am currently making belts, bracelets, and key clips. I am looking to expand my range of products but am currently short of funds (full time school, part time work). Because of this I have started a crowd-funding campaign on Kickstarter. Please check it out and any support would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sunnysid3up/raw-leather-goods-premium-full-grain-leather-goods
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Hi folks. This is my first attempt at sheridan carving. I had a little problem with water spots, had to 'deglaze' and restain so that's still a bit apparent. But otherwise I feel it came out reasonably well. Please feel free to give the good, bad, and ugly. Thanks. -
Hey guys I am a 22 year old out of Seattle, WA and I just started my own small business called Raw Leather Goods LLC. I am currently making belts, bracelets, and key clips. I am looking to expand my range of products but am currently short of funds (full time school, part time work). Because of this I have started a crowd-funding campaign on Kickstarter. Please check it out and any support would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/sunnysid3up/raw-leather-goods-premium-full-grain-leather-goods
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Just finished my new belt. I'm very pleased with the tooling and dye job but a little unimpressed with my stitching! Cheers
