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Showing results for tags 'antique'.
Found 64 results
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Hey all, I’m working on a banjo strap and I’m at the stage where I’ve added RTC Sheridan resist over the carved and stamped design before applying the antique gel. However, after applying and drying overnight, the RTC is drying pink and splotchy around the edges on the white acrylic paint, and it’s feeling sticky on those spots compared to everywhere else. Now it’s picking up a lot of dust and debris that’s nearly impossible to wipe off. I’ve now stripped and repainted those spot three times, trying very carefully to avoid the edges of the dyed leather around it so it doesn’t pull color, but I woke up this morning to the same results that I’ve been experiencing. This is my first project using RTC as I’ve seen it highly recommended as a resist for antiquing over acrylic. I’ve diluted it with just a little bit of water and I’m applying two coats with a brush only on the carved and painted areas, avoiding the dyed background leather because I don’t want the sheen there. I can’t seem to upload pictures because the files are too big, so hopefully my description comes across! I appreciate any suggestions.
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Hey all, I’m working on a banjo strap and I’m at the stage where I’ve added RTC Sheridan resist over the carved and stamped design before applying the antique gel. However, after applying and drying overnight, the RTC is drying pink and splotchy around the edges on the white acrylic paint, and it’s feeling sticky on those spots compared to everywhere else. Now it’s picking up a lot of dust and debris that’s nearly impossible to wipe off. I’ve now stripped and repainted those spot three times, trying very carefully to avoid the edges of the dyed leather around it so it doesn’t pull color, but I woke up this morning to the same results that I’ve been experiencing. This is my first project using RTC as I’ve seen it highly recommended as a resist for antiquing over acrylic. I’ve diluted it with just a little bit of water and I’m applying two coats with a brush only on the carved and painted areas, avoiding the dyed background leather because I don’t want the sheen there. I can’t seem to upload pictures because the files are too big, so hopefully my description comes across! I appreciate any suggestions.
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I’ve got a old leather large suitcase that most of the surface of the leather is powdery and want to stabilise it before using it for decorative storage, It’s wrapped in plastic at the moment to stop the dust from going everywhere, Has anyone any experience of doing this please?
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Hello Everyone! I came across a leather wallet in an antique store that caught my eye and I really love it! I have been trying to find some information about the company so I could also perhaps determine the age of the wallet. The antique dealer said that the person who brought it in focuses a lot on items from the 1920s so it could possibly be from that time. I am hoping that someone from England perhaps knows of some info or resources that could help me track down the history of it. I appreciate any help I can get. I'm also amazed at the condition this is in if it is indeed about 100 years old! I also really love the patina on it. I plan on restoring it a touch to get it back into functional condition and I will actually use the wallet! Here's what I have found out so far: 1. Stamp inside says, "Bohanna & Tasker Co Manchester" 2. Internet search found a book titled "The Commercial Directory And Shippers Guide" from 1879 where it mentions that the company is a wholesaler and has two locations in Manchester. 3. Unverified info that it came from the 1920s Hopefully this link works (I wasn't able to upload the images on this because of the size limit so hopefully you're able to see it with the link)
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Hi all, I recently picked up a box of miscellaneous leather tools and there were these four tools in it that I have never seen before and have no idea what they are used for. I was hoping you all could help me identify what their uses are. From left to right in the lineup: 1. Double-sided overstitch wheel (I know it's an overstitch wheel, but double-sided? How would I use that?) 2. Some sort of French Beveler or edge beveler, possibly for shoe making? 3. Some sort of creaser or little hammer thing? The previous owner sharpened the axe end because he wasn't sure what else to do with it. 4. An awl of some sort, I can't tell if the tip has been broken off or what the deal is. Very thick, blunt end, maybe was forked but broke off? Maybe for saddle making? Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
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Vintage/antique Whitfield leather splitter No. 599. The tag reads Whitfield, Hodgsons & Brough Ltd. Boot Repairing Machinery Specialists. I am not a leatherworker, but will do my best to answer any questions. The crank turns easily and the knob on the top horizontal shaft adjusts the distance between the rollers. The blade is 7.5" wide and 3/8" thick and will need to be sharpened at a minimum. The splitter weighs 108 lbs. From the few pictures I have found on the internet, the machine appears to be missing a piece of what looks to be angle iron on the infeed side. See pic with arrow. This pic was found here on leatherworker.net. The splitter is located in Henderson, KY 42420 (just south of Evansville, IN) and at this time, I am not willing to ship. $1,750 and can hold for up to 90 days with a $100 non-refundable deposit.
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We have an antique Junker and Ruh machine in good working condition. We purchased it from Germany. But it didn't work out for our projects and was sitting on a shelf. It is in good condition. Working great. Asking $600 USD. It is in Ontario, Canada.
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I found this lovely old horse stashed away in an old leather shop in northern Oregon, and am lucky enough to get to play with it and do some restoration work. It has a maker’s mark of “Randall&CO CIN O.” and a name branded on it, G.B. Mason. I don’t know if that’s a company or an individual. I’m thinking it was probably a saddle maker from the Pacific Northwest or Montana, possibly even a hundred years back or better. I don’t know much about stitching horses but I think it’s a left handed harness horse. I’d love any info or links to where I can learn more, as well as any thoughts on restoration. I’d say I’m a lower level journeyman at repair and restoration of hand tools but this is a little different. For whatever reason, no matter which way I orient them a couple of these pictures are posting upside down, sorry.
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I am selling out my leather tools, patterns, and books. I'm wondering if there is a market for Craftools dating from 1949-1963. These would be the stamping tools marked Craftool Co with only a number, no alpha. I'm a bit overwhelmed by all the tools, patterns, and books I need to move. What do you look for when buying and how do I price what I've got. I'm seeing some of these tools listed for $12 each for the 49-63 vintage. Is that an enticing amount? It's the top of the iceburg of what I previously bought. I know the Barry King stamping tools will go for more. Do I need pictures of each tool and what they look like stamped?
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Hello, I have been looking for a way to add color to Fiebings Neutral Antique Paste Finish, but I don't want to use an acrylic paint to add the color. I want it to use Fiebings dye, but I don't know if it will mess with how the pastes acts. Any and all help is greatly apreceated! Thanks!
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Hello friends, I have recently inherited a very old saddle. Through a little bit of cleaning discovered that it was manufactured by the late F.O.Baird. There is not a lot of information on this maker available on the internet today. Mostly of what I dug up was related to his artwork and very little of his saddles other than their auction prices. What I did find about the saddles is that they are highly collectible and rare to find. I'm looking for a little more information -- if anyone happens to have any to share it will be appreciated. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FGUt4YYFAexcmgTD8 -
Hi there, I am wondering if somebody could enlighten me on this subject. I bought Fiebings Antique Paste in NEUTRAL and can not figure out what is the purpose of this thing. It does not give any color, not even light tone or shade, it looks just like some finish. And do I need to put actual finish on top of this? So what do you guys use this neutral antique for? Thank you! Era -
Please help ID this machine. Front flywheel like a Frobana ...but too much difference???? Swiss made. does anyone have a manual? The curved needle is really a hook to pull the bottom thread to the top where it engages the upper billhook and shuttle/bobbin holder. Bottom thread is held in 2 "fingers" which present the bottom thread to the needle/hook. how do I adjust the needle to catch the bottom thread ....now it just misses.
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I recently bought a Singer 16-188. It was very dirty and I have replaced some parts, but it was a steal at $25.00. I am an experienced seamstress, so threading a machine isn't new to me, however, I am not sure I have this correct. I have searched and searched the internet for a diagram of how to thread this machine and I am still empty handed. When I try to sew with the machine after I have it threaded (at least my guess at threading), it won't stitch. It is connecting around the bobbin, so I don't really know what the issue is. If anyone has a diagram of how to properly thread this machine or has any idea of why it isn't stitching, I would really appreciate the input. Thank you!
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At least I think that's what I bought listed as "antique clamp", I figured for $20 (Canadian mind you...) How could a guy go wrong. All the screws turn, it clamps down, neat conversion peice if nothing else. There's even a plate on the bottom to keep the screw from digging into the bench. Gotta be old, any guesses? Thought I'd share.
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Hi all, Got a problem - made a belt, painted it and covered with F cordovan antique finish paste, swiped it off after 25 min or so and after some time I used F tan-kote on it. The problem is as pictures show - it started to peel of :/ further more what should i use to protect the belt from buckle dmg.
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Hey all! New member here, semi-new leatherworker. I’ve been having issues with my antique chipping off during the hand sewing process. I’ve tried quite a few different finish options: neat lac, tan kote, super sheene, rtc, Leather sheen, top finish (from eco-flo), and resolene. I don’t really want to switch from Fiebings paste, but I’m at my wits end! I’m also having issues with it sitting in my pear shade on flowers (both matte pear shade and smooth), and some custom stamps. I use soft cotton to wipe the antique, since I kind of hate working with wool. Any advice is greatly appreciated! -
Hey guys, me and my husband got bit and have been hooked on leather crafting. It started as a hobby a few weeks ago but we both found a passion in it. A few of his buddies from work want some stuff for Christmas so we want to make it look more 'professional' and last better. We picked up a basic tool set and some stamps. But we are pretty clueless when it comes to how to finish our leather. We have a Tandy's about two hours away we are going to next weekend to pick stuff up, but I wanted to get some recommendations on products from Tandy's you guys like. I've seen a lot about the Clear-Lac/Neat-Lac, saddle lac, tote lac, ect. We know we want to do a lot of antique finish but according to Tandy's website you dye, use a pro resist, antique finish, then neat lac. But won't a resist keep the antique from absorbing? Also, what is the proper process? So far we follow this- cut, groove, bevel edges, sand, burnish, tool/carve, oil (let soak overnight), then sew together. Is there a better method and how to do we finish? I posted my first project I did, a sheath for my throwing knives. I did the art then colored it with regular acrylic paint from Hobby Lobby (which I'm sure you probably shouldn't use). We are looking at getting the Eco flo glue, fiebing dyes, fiebing all in one antique finish, fiebing pro resist, eco flo neat-lac, and neats foot oil. Is there anything else we should get? I'm sorry for all the questions. Just want to make sure we are on the right path
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Good evening all, I just finished my first leather journal a few weeks ago. I tooled a viking serpent on the front: https://imgur.com/gallery/Jsuj1QK As you can see, there are many grooves and crevices in the design. My process went as follows: Dyed leather (black and brown areas) After dye dried for about a day, I applied Tan Kote After Tan Kote dried for a couple hours, I applied Fiebings antique paste making sure to get into all the crevices I let the antique set for about 10 minutes, the wiped off with sheep pad Applied a final Tan Kote to journal My problem: As I bend the cover through normal use, the antique flakes off onto my desk. How could I have prevented this? Through my understanding of how this process works, it seems most likely that the first application of Tan Kote was too thick (even though I was paying attention to use it sparingly) and crept down into the crevices where it didn't belong. Then, once the antique settled down there, it didn't have any leather to adhere to because of the resist nature of Tan Kote. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for your help.
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I found some old tools from my Great grand father. Unfortunately he died, so did my grand father and father. I heard he was a shoe maker. Can anyone identify the brand of the awl, I can't make anything from it ? Maybe it helps if I mention I live in belgium. Thx in advance Bert
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I've got TONS of unique, one-off leather for sale. A range of sizes and colors and finishes, great for small projects. I'm about to list some large hides in addition to the small and medium I have for sale. Right now I'm posting on eBay but would love to sell direct. Here is the eBay link- https://www.ebay.com/sch/racbec-61/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= Better photos coming soon too! There are MANY more than shown below. Email me: Rachael@heavyleathernyc.com -
I am just getting into antique leather restoration, etc. and I have a problem. I have a nice "motorcycle" or "western" belt from the 1940s and at some point it lost it's name, which was "FORTUNE" in what would have been yellow brass or chromed brass letters. I have been searching all over the web for alphabet spots but those currently available are not of the right design or size to reproduce the name. Ace Western Belts in Japan appears to reproduce these, but the cost is high and I am not sure the size is right. The original letters were 7/16" tall, or nearly half an inch. Communication with these folks is not easy because of the language barrier. So, does anyone have any letters I could buy that I could use to finish this belt? The photo of the actual belt shows other losses which I have fixed, but so far I cannot get those letters! I am also looking at restoration of this type to be an ongoing effort, so I am also looking for a source of vintage spots and jewels for future projects. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help!!!
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Hi there, I have just finished a new leather case for my phone. I'm curious about an issue that I encounter on all my projects: I like to carve flowers and try to make a few deep pear shader marks. When I apply some antique (Fiebing Antique Finish or Tandy Hi-Lite, used as an antique), it never stays into the petals (see picture attached). My dream is to achieve something closer to this: https://www.instagram.com/p/BAdbOq4R2g3/. Beautiful and subtle shades. I'm quite far from this result Here is my routine after tooling & dying, do I do something wrong? - I apply 2 coats of Tandy's super sheen or, more frequently, Fiebing's Resolene (60% Resolene / 40% water), with a little spray bottle. I rapidly swipe with a piece of coton wool, to prevent the "bubbles" of resist to make stains on the leather. Let it dry several hours between the 2 coats, and after the 2d one. - I apply some antique (Fiebing's paste or Tandy's Hi-Lite): I put a glove on and spread the product all over the leather piece with my fingers, then remove the excess with paper towel, trying to go horizontal. Let it dry and buff. - I apply another coat of resist, sometimes 2. Most of the time, the antique tends to blend :-( My guess: maybe I don't carve deep enough? Maybe my way of doing this is all wrong? I thank you in advance for your help and suggestions! Sophie -
I was watching a video today on YouTube by my favorite leatherworker. He was using a metal roller on leather to depress the saddle stitching into a groove. I thought it was so cool. I grabbed my tin of antique sofa rollers, some wood for a chair I'm restoring, six metal ones and 3 hard plastic ones from the 40s. I dumped them in a pickle solution on the side of my cooker, and in about 30 minutes brushed them clean and buffed them, took some old wood handles for my round wood files, used the wood files to enlarge the holes a bit and put them in. I love it when I can find stuff around here to use that I need not spend money on.
