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Found 19 results

  1. I got hugely inspired by @Tastech to do some more serious repair work on a riding boot this time home. Our oldest son works full time as a rider at a jumping stable, and his old daily boots had come apart. The glues outsole had loosened completely, my guess is that it happened since the insole was only made of some pressed cardboard like material, and the uppers were only glued to the underside of it, so at some point everything started to loosen and the boot was damaged. I took off the outsole and inspected the boot. The midsole was also some cardboard like material, and that was removed as well. I made a new insole from a piece of veg tan leather, tracing the remains of the original insole and guessing how the tip should look. The new insole was glued in place and I used a curved awl with a hook on it to make a lock stich to attach the uppers to the insole. Since the original sole didn't have a sewing channel, I thought that I'd better not change the design too much and that's why I chose the lock stitching method. When the insole was in place, I glued the sole stiffener in. I didn't have any cork filler, and I had too little patience to get some. So I tried to make my own filler from latex paint, sawdust and PVA glue. It looked all right, but I after letting it dry I as afraid that it would not hold up to the job, so I removed it all again. I didn't want to risk that the sole came off because of my homemade filler. After spending a lot of time removing the sawdust paint filler, I decided to fill in the voids with some scraps of veg tan instead. That went surprisingly well, and after attaching the mid sole, I rigged up an old round sanding wheel, and roughed up the bottom and shaped it to correspond to the inside of the sole. After one failed glue attempt where I had placed the sole too far back, I managed to get a decent positioning and everything was hammered tight. I don't have a heel press at the moment, but hammering seemed to do the trick. I didn't time myself for the repair job, but given that a set of boots like those will most likely set you back around 600 US$, it is still worth spending a couple of hours doing it plus the added benefit that it is an interesting job and I like to learn something new. The biggest surprise for me was that the original insole and midsole were of such a crappy quality. And also that the upper and the insole/sole only relied on glue to hold it together. Aside from that, it was daunting at first to separate the boot, but once I got started it all seemed fairly logical. And given that the boot was so damaged that Gustav originally wanted to throw it away, I didn't risk much except investing a bit of time and learning something in the case that I hadn't been able to repair it. Damaged Cavallo riding boot. Close up of the damaged part of the boot. Sole, inner lining, midsole, insole with stiffener on it. The new insole is glued in place prior to stitching. Wavy stitching, done with a hook-awl, it doesn't look pretty, but I think it holds better than no sewing. The white stuff is the remains of the homemade paint/glue/sawdust filler. Now the voids have been filled with veg tan that is glued in place. New midsole installed and the underside has been shaped on the sanding wheel. The sole is glued on again and the boot should hopefully hold up for a bit more use.
  2. Hi all, I recently picked up a box of miscellaneous leather tools and there were these four tools in it that I have never seen before and have no idea what they are used for. I was hoping you all could help me identify what their uses are. From left to right in the lineup: 1. Double-sided overstitch wheel (I know it's an overstitch wheel, but double-sided? How would I use that?) 2. Some sort of French Beveler or edge beveler, possibly for shoe making? 3. Some sort of creaser or little hammer thing? The previous owner sharpened the axe end because he wasn't sure what else to do with it. 4. An awl of some sort, I can't tell if the tip has been broken off or what the deal is. Very thick, blunt end, maybe was forked but broke off? Maybe for saddle making? Any help or ideas would be appreciated.
  3. I have purchased an old cobbler machine and wonder if anyone have a manual to this. The seller said it was a Husqvarna made in Sweden, but searching the Internet it looks like a Koch Colibri. I have also found pictures of the same model marked H. Sackmann.
  4. Howdy, I'm new to leather working. I've been doing it for close to two years now. I've been wanting to build myself a pair of all leather boots. I have no idea where to start. All the books I've searched online have mixed reviews and I want to make sure I get the right kind of leather for the soles. I have no cobbler specific tools but shoot it doesn't matter, if I need it, I'll get it. I've just been yearning to push my skills to another level and finally make something for myself. Thanks all.
  5. Looking for some help please. I have bought an old Singer 29K171 and is busy taking it apart and cleaning it. Replacing parts and bringing it back to life. But I have hit a snag. How do I remove the pin which holds the shuttle driving cam gear. All parts of the machine is badly funked up. Wd40 has helped and all other pins slipped out. But this one is stuck and I am not sure if it is meant to release to one side only.
  6. For various complicated reasons we are ceasing to do boot work and so we will be selling our Singer 29K60 machine. This is a long arm treadle model with the "splittable" arm ( there are similar machine out there with a one-piece arm which are virtually impossible to service). It has been drilled to accept a motor at some stage but we have used it as a treadle machine for the last 12 years or so. We are open to reasonable offers or would swap for a Singer 46K49 / Allbrook & Hashfield / Techsew 402 or similar. Posting here before posting anywhere else. This is a very nice, working machine. The table hardware is included but will need a new top making as it is for a short arm machine. By all means contact us for further information.
  7. Hello, I am selling a shoe repair oven with infrared lamps used to revive the glue, as new (used only a few times). Heating temperature at 45°C in ~5 minutes. My price: 140 GBP. Retail price is around 450 GBP, check below: http://www.bicifestival.it/lavorazione-artigianale-pelle-bdd-1_26/forno-a-raggi-infrarossi-per-calzature-jlrhqclq-odd-1903.html The item will be shipped from Romania. For UK the shipping cost is 30 GBP. For other countries I will check best shipping option at request. The item is listed also on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Infrared-oven-for-shoemaking-repair-FORNO-A-RAGGI-INFRAROSSI-PER-CALZATURE/233017359077 If interested, please let me know. Best regards, George
  8. Hello. I am completely new to leatherworking and I want to make some shoes. I could use a bit of guidance regarding tools and such. Can anybody estimate the size/type of thread/needles/awl for the more decorative stitching in this next video, even a rough guess? https://youtu.be/iHwE9C_3MUo?t=45 Starts at 45 seconds. Another video with similar tools here, at 7:31. https://youtu.be/IG02Iwl2kt4?t=451 The awls seem especially difficult to find. Any advice welcome. Thanks! -Aaron
  9. I would like to find one of these old patchers for sale at a decent price. I think they are cool machines and would definitely put it to good use in my shop. Let me know if you have anything or have an idea of another place i could look to find one of these machines. Thank you in advance.
  10. Hello guys, my first post here! I am a complete novice to the leatherwork/sewing field and I am looking for some advice here. I would greatly like to get into the reconstruction of Nike's/Jordans especially, completely redoing the upper of the shoe with premium materials such as python, lamb/pig skin and eventually leather. I have been doing a TON of research but when it comes down to finding a machine Google just isnt good enough, i need help from a real person with some experience. (PLEASE VIEW WHAT IM TRYING TO DO HERE: https://instagram.com/JBFcustoms OR www.jbfcustoms) I am looking for a starter machine to do this stuff with. Through constant research I have found that one of the top reconstruction artist linked above uses both a flat bed and a post bed with a roller foot. I personally cannot afford 1 machine really, let alone 2, so I am looking for something that is good enough to get me through my trial and error stage and help me make some profit to purchase a better machine! I have looked up several diff kinds of machines... Post, flat, teflon, cylinder, walking etc etc, but its all like a foreign language to me. I would like my first machine to be able to handle at least 3,4 oz of leather as well as the python and pig/lamb skin material. So far the cheapest post bed Ive found is a Yamata 810 at about $600. I have heard that some machines can come with attachments to make in into a flat, which would be great since that post has that 7" stand, which would make it difficult to sew the material together before actually putting it on the shoe... Can somebody lead me in the right direction?! Im located in Ohio... THANK YOU!!!
  11. Hello Anyone knows anhthing about this machine? Is fully working and the prize that is asked is 200$ Is it only a cobbler machine or can it be used as at ordinary leather sewing machine? Best regards Johan
  12. I regrettably popped out the entire bobbin ensemble. I put it back in as best as I could remember it and was able to sew away for a while. Now, the upper thread keeps getting caught in and under the bobbin. I must have put the three bobbin parts back in incorrectly. Everything else is unchanged and looks okay. What is the name for the piece I am holding in the picture? The one I wish I never took out of the machine.. Can you tell me the correct orientation of this piece, and thus the bobbin basket, while the needle is at its highest position? The needle reaches its highest position on my machine when the handcrank is at exactly 12:00. Where should the crescent on the piece in the picture be at this point? If you could provide a photograph, that would be extremely helpful!
  13. I regrettably popped out the entire bobbin ensemble. I put it back in as best as I could remember it and was able to sew away for a while. Now, the upper thread keeps getting caught in and under the bobbin. I must have put the three bobbin parts back in incorrectly. Everything else is unchanged and looks okay. What is the name for the piece I am holding in the picture? The one I wish I never took out of the machine.. Can you tell me the correct orientation of this piece, and thus the bobbin basket, while the needle is at its highest position? The needle reaches its highest position on my machine when the handcrank is at exactly 12:00. Where should the crescent on the piece in the picture be at this point? If you could provide a photograph, that would be extremely helpful!
  14. For those who've seen the movie by Adam Sandler, in which he portrays a Jewish cobbler in modern day New York City, I'm wondering if anyone recognizes the old, old treadle used throughout the film?
  15. As the title , how do I make lasts so l can make myself a pair of everyday boots. I have heard ofof plaster casts, feet in jelly and so on -but I want to end up with a pair of wood lastsI can make the boot directly onto. HELP! Best Wishes Claire
  16. Hello guys, my first post here! I am a complete novice to the leatherwork/sewing field and I am looking for some advice here. I would greatly like to get into the reconstruction of Nike's/Jordans especially, completely redoing the upper of the shoe with premium materials such as python, lamb/pig skin and eventually leather. I have been doing a TON of research but when it comes down to finding a machine Google just isnt good enough, i need help from a real person with some experience. (PLEASE VIEW WHAT IM TRYING TO DO HERE: https://instagram.com/JBFcustoms OR www.jbfcustoms) I am looking for a starter machine to do this stuff with. Through constant research I have found that one of the top reconstruction artist linked above uses both a flat bed and a post bed with a roller foot. I personally cannot afford 1 machine really, let alone 2, so I am looking for something that is good enough to get me through my trial and error stage and help me make some profit to purchase a better machine! I have looked up several diff kinds of machines... Post, flat, teflon, cylinder, walking etc etc, but its all like a foreign language to me. I would like my first machine to be able to handle at least 3,4 oz of leather as well as the python and pig/lamb skin material. So far the cheapest post bed Ive found is a Yamata 810 at about $600. I have heard that some machines can come with attachments to make in into a flat, which would be great since that post has that 7" stand, which would make it difficult to sew the material together before actually putting it on the shoe... Links to a machine that can do this?? Links to machines in this price range period? Can somebody lead me in the right direction?! Im located in Ohio... THANK YOU!!! (posted this in a leatherwork thread as well, im new to the site lol)
  17. New to forum, I have a lot of old tools that came from a pile of cobbler stuff. Several of these I cannot identify. Any help would be greatly appreciated! On the back of this reads "American" with a big star. Some kind of stretching device? Anyone seen one of these before? DSC_4529a by markpotato, on Flickr
  18. I picked this sewing machine up at an auction and it has potential to have history with my family, the gentleman that brought it in dug it out of the attic of his parents old general store, which was next door to my grandparents on my fathers side, who ran a shoe repair shop. I haven't been able to confirm that it belonged to them but it's interesting none the less.
  19. As part of buying out a business I inherited a couple of different machines that don't fit my business model. I have here below an Auto Soler used to attach uppers and soles together on boots, shoes, and other items. It is located in the Greater Seattle Area and is ready for immediate pick-up, or delivery (nominal fees) within 2 hours of Seattle. Otherwise you will need to work with me to make arrangements to have it shipped. Unit is just over 5' 10" tall and about 12" square at the base and weight an estimated 200 lbs. (I can move it pretty easily by myself by walking it across the shop floor). I am asking $900 for it, but feel free to make an offer. Not pictured and to be posted soon: * Continental 8 boot nailer * Landis 12 E (yes and E model) All of these machines are in working condition and am finishing up maintenance of the 12E. If interested in any of these machines please drop an email. Images are too large at the moment so working on resizing them. Will post them soon.
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