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I just picked up an IMMACULATE Singer 29k-71 and the feed foot won't pull the work through. If I pull it, it goes to the appropriate length and stops, but there is no power going to make the foot pull the work through. Any help is appreciated. 20240414_152612_1.mp4

Hey, are you a leather worker in London GB? I'm in USA and you have a customer in London that can't find you! Give me a phone number and address and I can have them contact you

I'm hoping this particular thread will do a couple things. Bring a better understanding of industrial machines for people that may be having trouble, educating those who are deciding to buy new or used. I do know that having a reputable dealer is worth a lot. Thanks to fellow member miaoreo for trusting me to repair her machine to a useable condition. There is a lengthy thread outlining her trials and tribulations with her newly aquired Singer 211G155. I have always been big on education and I hope to share some of what I've learned repairing machines for a living. This website is a never ending resource of information. I know my leatherwork has improved a great deal as a result. During the course of following her troubles, it was obvious to me the machine had been modified poorly and it had multiple issues. No sense beating a dead horse, so on to the issues I encountered: Top and bottom shafts were out of time. Hook timing was too far advanced. Needle bar height was off (I reset to original Singer needle and timed it using existing timing marks that you will now see. Removed original thread lubricator as bottom edge was sharp as a razor.(replaced with Singer guide) Hook compartment cover was wrong one, not enough clearance above hook (replaced with proper one) Replaced tension release pin (old one had been ground down) Replaced entire tension plate Hook was too far from needle. Needle guard was not adjusted. Tension post was bent. Tension release disk was wrong one for the machine.(replaced with proper one) Feed dog hole had been modified WAY too big (I replaced the feed dogs and throat plate to match) Replaced set screw for check spring (head was destroyed on old one) Replaced bobbin basket and tension spring. Latch opener was not adjusted correctly. Adjusted tension release correctly. There as surely some things I didn't list that I'll remember later, but you can see why a novice would have a tough time, though Mia was a real trooper! Regards, Eric

Hello everyone, I need to know if a boot like this can be repaired? It's a large scratch and I'm not sure how to go about getting it fixed. I was thinking of sanding around the scratch, then trying to buff with either saddle soap or an oil? Any ideas??? Thanks

Hello! I'm looking for help/advice to fix up a schott nyc vintage bomber jacket since im admittedly very VERY inexperienced with any sort of leatherworking. I got it from a close friend who has had it for a while and has done his best to "keep up" with the damage the leather has sustained through tough love. Im mainly worried as through my research sheepskin seems to be pretty sensitive and the tears aren't the best. They're covered by leather patches atm but they're pretty distracting and meant as a momentary solution. Im not sure if I should see someone to fix them, if theyre beyond repair or will be far too expensive to do so currently, or if i should just paint over the patches and rougher spots? I'll enclose some photos, so please let me know what the best course of action is and dont hesitate to let me know if more info is needed. Cheers!

This mangled screw and spring remnant was behind the thread tension assembly area. Can anyone id it for me?

I recently purchased an aniline leather chair that has been exposed to the sun and has developed some lines on the surface. I've tried cleaning it, but the lines are still quite visible. Has anyone had success in removing sun damage lines from aniline leather? Is there any specific product or technique that you would recommend? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! chairpicture

Hi all, I’ve got this awl (pun stubbornly intended). Picked up fairly cheap from something between a junk and antiques shop. I ground and polished the tarnish away on my sharpening stone if you’re wondering why it looks a bit strange. As you can see from the photos about 1/4 of the wood intended to hold the shaft (right term?) is gone. So the obvious question I have is what is the best way that doesn’t involve replacing the whole handle to secure the shaft and collar? Related to that, what’s with the angle of the shaft? I’ve tried it all four ways, and obviously due to the diamond shape it only fits in two, but it’s never centred. I don’t think this has to do with the bit that’s broken off, because to be centred there would have to be less material on the side that’s still there. In fact that’s probably why there’s that bit missing, because it would have been a fairly thin wedge. Is there some reason this awl is asymmetrically angled? And if so, which way is it meant to be held? I’ve got no idea what’s stamped on the shaft, it’s very worn. I’d be interested if anyone recognises it.

Inner hook guide Trapped thread I am a fairly new owner of my juki 1510. I was chugging away sewing the other day when I heard a horrible sound and got an error message on my motor. I immediately switched off the machine and took out my work (thankfully just some prototype bits), I gently turned the hand wheel and noticed it would not do a full rotation. After opening the bobbin flap I saw there was a lot of thread wound up in it. I cleared most of it but there is still some trapped in the mechanism (pictured). I have followed a YouTube video trying to remove the bobin case so that I could clean it but am unable to remove the casing itself. I think what is preventing the wheel from doing a full rotation is the position of the inner hook guide (akso pictured)? I am unsure if it is sitting right or what I should do with it. If anyone familiar with the machine could give me some pointers it would be much appreciated!

Dear all, I asked this morning for a manual of the Adler 4 and 5 series to be shared with me. I have recently gotten a hold of a Adler 5-8 (for free) as I like old machines. But now am faced with trying to make sense of the individual parts and giving it a check that it actually works (according to the person giving it to me it works all right). I was offered a deal: photos for manual. Rationale: apparently there is a lack of images of these old maschineschrieb and spare parts. Ok, if that’s the case: I agreed. So here are the Fotos. any feedback would be appreciated. if you spot things on the machine that seem awkward, let me know. Any guiding is appreciated. As I wrote earlier today, the wheel turns smoothly, the needles is moving up and down and the „ship“ (the „metal surprise egg“ is turning). best MSAdler p.s.: why Do I want to check if it works? Because I won’t spent a lot of time restoring it if the eagle has no wings ...

Hi Guys, I'm a newbie here and have just bought a very old Singer 111w155 machine which I have a few questions about. Im hoping that some of you have this machine or one like it and can give me some advice. This machine does a nice stitch so far (Ive had it for 2 days) but I noticed that the the belt on the lower safety clutch pulley walks off the pulley about 1/4 of an inch. How can I get this back on center and keep it there? Upon looking over the machine and watching videos on line I noticed that I'm missing a cog next to the lower safety clutch pulley... OR maybe it is an older model? Well anyway, I tried to just move the lower safety clutch pulley over a bit, but when I did - I got a lot of slop (back and forth on the shaft). Also I need some advice on if I should move my bobbin case up a bit. It looks like it might be a bit low. The little tab the goes under the feed dog just catches. Should it be more firmly up in that slot? AND - If I do move it; will I have to re-time the bobbin and needle? Also, about that bobbin area... Is the little finger that comes out and points at the bobbin case supposed to be closer to the case? I seem to have a good size gap. Lastly, having to lift out the bobbin with a needle or screw driver seems wrong, is there a right way or at least a better way? I cant wait to get to work and use this machine! I hope to hear from you.

A customer has asked me to restore a favorite saddle of hers and wants the wool redone as well .... Anyone have any tips on how to do this??

“Furniture Clinic” Professional Leather Care/ Repair Kit++ : Pick up only in Hamilton, ON Please view this ad: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-business-industrial/hamilton/furniture-clinic-professional-leather-care-repair-kit/1468645064?utm_source=com.google.android.apps.docs&utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_android Price: $ 950 I am offering an amazing deal on everything you need to start your own Leather Repair Business, or for the leatherworker to do professional repair and dye jobs. I purchased all of this four years ago, but ended up pursuing a different career. 99% of all of this product is unused and as new. It has barely been touched at all. You get everything in the attached pictures and listed below. The manuals that come with the kit give excellent detailed instruction on every repair or colouring challenge you may face, and you can also call the makers, Furniture Clinic, for assistance or advice. The kit allows you to mix any colour needed. You can check out furnitureclinic.com to see what all of these products do. I am offering much more here than is in the kit they have on the website and it is all-together worth at least $1800 Canadian new. I am offering it all for $950. I am sorry it would not make sense for me to sell any items separately. It sells as one lot. Please see linked ad for all items included, as my formatting is lost here: 1 Litre Leather Ultra Clean, 1 Litre Leather Prep, 1 Litre Alcohol Cleaner 1 Litre Leather Protection Cream 500ml Leather Ultra Clean 500ml Leather Binder 500ml Leather Revive 500ml Adhesion Promoter 500ml Leather Finish Matt 500ml Leather Finish Gloss 250ml Cross Linker X 250ml Dye Fixative 250ml Leather Stain Remover 250ml Leather Degreaser 250ml Flexifil 250ml Heavy Filler 250ml Acid Wipe 150ml Leather Mousse Foaming Cleaner 100ml Leather Aroma Spray 50ml Grain Repair 50ml Leather Glue PU 15ml Grain Copier Hardener Half-bottle of Magic-Zymes Original Odor Eliminator 30ml Mixing Cups 35 x Plastic Pallet Knife Assorted Sandpaper, Scouring Pads, and Sanding Sponges Assorted Terry Towels, and Cotton Cloth Paint Stir Sticks Colour Matching Swatch Booklet and Guide Huge Stanley FaxMax Toolbox with Shelf, as pictured Rolling Case with many optional dividers for storage and transport Cleaning, Repair and Restoration Manual 14 Paint Strainers Syringe Tampico Scrub Brush 288 page Full-Colour “Leather Care Compendium” Book by Kim and Axel Himer 0.01 to 200g Scale (will require batteries) Daylight Magnifying Lamp for natural-light colour checking 5 x 1500 yard spools of High-speed bonded leather sewing thread 4 Sponges 7 x 250ml Leather Re-Colouring Balm in: Dark Brown Tan Maroon Medium Brown Ivory 2 x Black 16 x 250ml Pigments (Standard Colours) plus 250ml Matting Agent: JS Black HC LS Blue LC MS Yellow LC NS Red LC PS Green QS Yellow RS Blue HC TS Yellow Oxide US-N Orange VS Red HC WS Umber XS Black LC YS Red Oxide ZS Violet BS Magenta KU White All of this stuff manages to fit into the two transport boxes, so that you have a fully mobile business. I also have an Iwata Power Jet Lite Air Brush Compressor that I would be willing to part with for an additional $400, but you would need to buy your own airbrush. Using an airbrush is the most efficient and even method of applying dyes and finishes, rather than just using a sponge.

Hi All, I have a two year old Techsew 441 that periodically will make a cluncking noise, skip a stitch then break off the needle. Typically this is when sewing thick leather, 10oz or so but has also done it on lesser material. I understand it has to do with how the needle path into the hook zone is influenced by the material but the problem appears to be getting worse not better. A recent project resulted in 8 or 10 broken needles and remaking of several components. Ive checked the timing using the Uwe system and it's spot on. I have renewed the hook assembly but have not made any lateral adjustmentso or shimming. Is anyone familiar with this behavior and its causality? Silverd

I haven't posted in these forums for quite some time so hoping it's still fairly active. I got this saddle in for billet replacements but I've got the issue of not being sure how to drop the panels on an english saddle with the single roll up front, and I would just wiggle the needle up in there but this second rivet/tack is holding the flap down too tightly to get to the front billets(they all need replaced on both sides). I'm not sure if there is a tool that can safely get under the rivet, or if someone knows where to pop seams along the front on a single roll saddle and still be able to put it back together or do I need to just tell them that front billet is a lost cause? Any help would be greatly appreciated; I've done billet replacements before but the saddles always had the double roll up front where you can easily pop and replace the stitching to just drop the underside down and out of the way.

Hello, I am selling a shoe repair oven with infrared lamps used to revive the glue, as new (used only a few times). Heating temperature at 45°C in ~5 minutes. My price: 140 GBP. Retail price is around 450 GBP, check below: http://www.bicifestival.it/lavorazione-artigianale-pelle-bdd-1_26/forno-a-raggi-infrarossi-per-calzature-jlrhqclq-odd-1903.html The item will be shipped from Romania. For UK the shipping cost is 30 GBP. For other countries I will check best shipping option at request. The item is listed also on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Infrared-oven-for-shoemaking-repair-FORNO-A-RAGGI-INFRAROSSI-PER-CALZATURE/233017359077 If interested, please let me know. Best regards, George

I do a lot of heel and halfsole replacements in the shop and unfortunately these days it seems our Vibram heels aren't holding up like they used to. I had two pairs recently that were down to the washers and I put them on four months ago. Amazonas are supposedly as bad or worse. Anyone have a good cowboy heel that may be a bit harder construction for concrete and field work?

Im going to use this post to both say hello, new here and ask for some opinions and suggestions on my vest. Years back i did some leather crafting, cutting dying rivets, hand stitching, belts, wrist bands, boot straps nothing at all epic but not 100% green. So i came and joined to get some feedback on a leather biker motorcycle type vintage vest i have, i was in the music entertainment biz and have a show the vest is for, think mad max, zombie apocalyptic type thing, not all nice and new looking. Its well used weatherd which is what i wanted i hit it with lexol, and its nice but it has a couple holes about the size of your finger tip not a problem for the look i wanted but i dont want them to enlarge, They appear like drops of something caustic ate the holes, the edges are tatted raggedy and for lack of a better term seem rotten if i pick at the rought tatters it disintegrates, but the leather around them seem sound, a bit weird to me what ciuld have caused this. My first idea was take thin scrap leather and from the back of the hole one easy to get to the other not so much glue it on with something like shoe goo that wont get hard and will keep the hole from growing if stressed, but will still look like a hole. So if the hole is say dime sized how big should my backing patch be? im assuming you guys have better options and any opinions what caused weird holes like these, Many thanks cheers b

I've been asked if I can help someone with three sets of boots and I'm looking for some guidance. This is my first time working on boots. Pairs 1 & 2: The owner recently recovered from a broken leg. The damage to her leg and the reduced activity has caused her leg, particularly around the calf, to become larger. She had one of the pairs custom made for her before the accident and she'd really like to keep them. For these two pairs I'm looking to learn the following: Are either of these candidates for stretching? (I'm am worried about the pair with patent leather at the top developing cracks if I attempt to stretch them -- she didn't even get a chance to use this pair before her accident) If stretching is viable, what is the best way to go about that? (I assume it would be best to refer to a shoe repair shop in this case?) Both pairs have a V-shaped relief cut along the inside of the calf (1.5" to 2" down and about 0.5" to 0.75" wide at the top) bridged with elastic. I was considering making this V longer and slightly wider. Is this a good idea? If making the V larger is the appropriate route, what type of elastic is this and where can I get some? Pair 3: The owner of this pair has a tendency to let her leg rub... a LOT. The interior lining still looks to be in good condition. I'm planning to cut away the frayed edges of the exterior leather, making a patch on the hole, and adding a reinforcement panel to both boots to make them symmetrical (only one of the boots has a hole right now). What I'm looking to learn here: What should I be wary of while making this repair? What leather is best for the job? (I am currently thinking of using lightweight black oil tanned)

Does anyone have any experience with repairing ladies' purses? I've repaired like 5 purses in the last 3 weeks. Mostly by a referral by a shoe repair shop. If anyone has experience with this, what kind of method do you use for charging for repair? What kind of repairs do you do or NOT do and why. Any and all thoughts would be appreciated.

Worldwide Industrial Solutions has moved to a larger facility to accommodate our customers better. WIS is the North American repair facility for Durkopp Adler. We also repair servo motors, drives, displays, circuit boards, valves and other production machinery. We not only fix your equipment but also put a video of it working on our YouTube channel for added customer satisfaction. If you are in need of a repair, parts, or a new machine to fit your needs let me know. I have a network of suppliers and OEM contacts to get what you need at a good price. Check out our website as well as Durkopp Adler for your machine needs. When it comes to the DAC control boxes (Echo - DAC3) I trained in Germany to repair them. WIS is also the only place with the testing equipment. Let me know if you need help with a repair or part. Worldwide 706-344-1480 ext. 103

Hi to everybody! im looking for supplier OEM factory leather for car seats to do repair. thank you very match

Can you help with a problem I have with a Juki LU 563? The clutch does not re-engage the main shaft after resetting the clutch ( I cannot sew). I have tried pressing the right button while turning the belt drive wheel, in the opposite direction ( away from the sewer) according to the instruction manual. The wheel seems to be locked when pressing the button and does not correct the problem. In addition the the stitch length mechanism disengages the clutch each time I try to change the stitch length. Thank you in advance.

Hi folks, I've started using a couple of machines that I've had for a while and was wondering what type of oil and grease you would use for it. My fabric industrial machines came with a few litres of clear machine oil (no label) which I use for them but I'm not sure if they could be used for these machines. I have a Pfaff 335-17B (Cylinder arm for Light-Medium weight material) and a generic 801 Skive machine (bottom feed, no brand name). The 801 Skive has a grease catchment in the top left corner and I don't think every oiling port is visible or I haven't noticed them, the manual that came with it was in Chinese and I downloaded an English version but it wasn't much help (diagrams were too small). With the Pfaff 335-17B I've found the oiling ports and painted a red ring around them. The other question I had would be when I've oiled each port do I run the machine with some scrap leather to clean off the excess oil or do I just wipe it off? Cheers, Jim

Hello all, Looking for a rising (or setting) sun camouflage tool to match what is on this strap of this vintage sidesaddle. The saddle could be anywhere from 80-120 years old. The strap was broken and someone used nails to "repair" it. The owner said she will only replace the whole strap if she can match the tooling exactly. Otherwise, we trim, skive, overlap and stitch where the break is. I haven't seen this particular tool before so am hoping someone in the community has. If it's available, we would be ecstatic. Thanks in advance! Anita