Sewing Machine for Sewing Custom Sneakers

[JohnG305]

First off, thank you for helping me out. I am new to leather sewing, I caught the bug and catch myself talking about sewing at my day job. 

I am going to be customizing  sneakers, mainly Vans' shoes by adding faux leather to the uppers (fake Louis Vuitton fabric- photo attached). A few shops are selling them on Etsy.  I have narrowed it down to a post bed with roller foot (top only) with reverse. The model I like  is the lower-priced Yamata FY 810. 

The FY 810 doesn't have the bottom roller. I believe the presser foot grips the leather from the top rather than having feed dogs? I am not sure if I need the bottom roller on the post? I know it would help the 2-3 layers of thin to medium shoe leather feed together more smoothly for assembling shoe uppers, but do I need it to get started? 

If I need a different machine, does anyone have a recommendation? I would rather spend a little more and get the correct shoe leather sewing machine without going over $1300 with table, etc. 

I am also looking to see if the FY810 can handle 207 thread or thicker.

If you are curious about the sneaker work, here is a link to the video, a professional shoe maker making Air Jordans from a pattern and lasts. The 2nd photo are Hender Scheme Jordan 4s made by hand and sewing machine- this is the pinnacle of custom sneaker work (in my opinion) Thank you for helping me out. I promise to return the favor here after I make a few dozen mistakes.

Thanks alot, John G 

https://youtu.be/jQMoLl3g8VI?t=11

 

Edited May 8, 2019 by JohnG305
more clarity

[RockyAussie]

Are you thinking that the Yamata FY 810. will allow you to stitch around on a made up sneaker? This type of post machine will allow good manoeuvring on an upper when it is out flat but will not be any use for getting around the toe area. The video you mention is using a different machine where you see it going around inside the shoe. The type shown there is way more expensive. You can get some shoe patching machines to do it that are quite cheap but the quality of stitch can be very erratic and takes a long to get any good at. Other than that goggle Robin Industries and have a look at their selection. They have both types.  http://www.robinindustry.com/

[Wizcrafts]

What you want is the Robin SP168 Sidewall Stitcher.

[JohnG305]

Rocky and Wizcrafts - thank you I appreciate the advice.

[ensitmike]

45 minutes ago, chrisash said:

Sorry but wearing those would make someone look a idiot, as everyone would know they are not LV and just a cheap miss match and badly done at that, I would expect LV to soon find out and take legal action for insulting there brand with such a cheap looking shoe

 

Have you seen what LV does now? Ever since Virgil Abloh its a bunch of tacky "supreme" street wear. Not to say they won't or shouldn't take legal action... but the brand has been cheapened. 

Unfortunately it is not John that is tacky... it is the market that is. 

[jimi]

I think you could get away doing this with a good patcher as you are not wanting to side wall stitch but only add the patch on top of the canvas as in the photo. Take a pair of vans and the patches to a shoe menders first and ask him to sew them on, then you could see how it would turn out. (After a lot of practice like rocky said) or you could even get him to sew them on for you instead of buying a machine?? 

[JohnG305]

Thanks Jimi, I think I need two machines-  a Singer 29K patcher to do the vans and then a post bed roller feed machine to sew leather uppers to make new shoes.  So I am searching for the Singer 29K Patcher. 

[dikman]

Besides the fact I wouldn't wear anything like that (what's wrong with cowboy boots anyway ) imo the stitching looks terrible. The needle size is way bigger than the "original" and gives it a perforated look. Maybe they should have used heavier thread?

[mikesc]

I agree with dikman ( except that I prefer "engineers" boots, or "work boots"..already broke both feet and some toes and had a few nails in my feet, and welding metal burns ) before deciding many years ago, that in the atelier, or anywhere at all outside..metal reinforced soles, metal toe caps, thick protective leather..is the way to go..
Sandals or bare feet in the house..I tried basket boot and sneaker styles, even the well made ones, inside the house..they last less than 3 months on my feet before they collapse or tear, or the soles begin leaving the uppers, or the soles split across the ball of the foot..Apparently they are made to be "looked at", not to be worn.
re the photos

this is the pinnacle of custom sneaker work

Looking at the "finish" , the cutting of the pieces, and the sewing and aligning of the pieces on the shoes that they have been added to, is very badly done..
A lot of work ( and risk when LVMH et al catch up to the wearers, sellers, "makers", "customisers"* ) just to wear a fake luxury item..

Badly done fake "bling"..

* I use the word "customiser" very loosely given the "tackiness" and the bad finishing, bad stitching..

Edited May 8, 2019 by mikesc

[nylonRigging]

 

1 hour ago, mikesc said:

* I use the word "customiser" very loosely given the "tackiness" and the bad finishing, bad stitching..

 

 

-

This Thread reminds me of something someone said to me about 30 years ago on my sewing . I was pretty green, My work and design was mechanically sound, but the 'aesthetics' of my stitching was lacking ..LOL .
So, I was pretty proud of the 1st item I sewn, and i took it someone who was well schooled in making the same type item that I just designed and sewn up .

She looked at me and said,  ..." Well.. I have seen worse work, out of better people ".
.

Edited May 9, 2019 by nylonRigging

[mikesc]

^^^ :))
I'm thinking ( looking at both of those images at the top ) You ( OP ) could probably do nearly as well, ( if you really feel that you must :( ) if not better , with a speedy stitcher.

There was a girl on here a few months ago ( I forget her "nick" at the moment ) who made "truly" "customised" shoes ( someone was doing carving for her ) and she was adding ( by hand) all kinds of rhinestones, lace, feathers even I think, They were spectacular.."bling", but really spectacular, and original..

Made her own clothes too, talented, sort of Country / "Glam rock" meets Goth..
Reminded me of some of my girlfriends ( one in particular, who could have been her twin sister, was a fashion student at Hornsey College of Art, and later a designer ) back in the late 60s early to mid 70s.
Before "Goth" was a thing..or at least before it had a name..

Edited May 9, 2019 by mikesc

[bikermutt07]

12 minutes ago, nylonRigging said:

 

She looked at me and said,  ..." Well.. I have seen worse work, out of better people ".
.

Now, that folks, is a mouthful.

[Techsew Ron]

On 5/8/2019 at 1:39 AM, JohnG305 said:

First off, thank you for helping me out. I am new to leather sewing, I caught the bug and catch myself talking about sewing at my day job. 

I am going to be customizing  sneakers, mainly Vans' shoes by adding faux leather to the uppers (fake Louis Vuitton fabric- photo attached). A few shops are selling them on Etsy.  I have narrowed it down to a post bed with roller foot (top only) with reverse. The model I like  is the lower-priced Yamata FY 810. 

The FY 810 doesn't have the bottom roller. I believe the presser foot grips the leather from the top rather than having feed dogs? I am not sure if I need the bottom roller on the post? I know it would help the 2-3 layers of thin to medium shoe leather feed together more smoothly for assembling shoe uppers, but do I need it to get started? 

If I need a different machine, does anyone have a recommendation? I would rather spend a little more and get the correct shoe leather sewing machine without going over $1300 with table, etc. 

I am also looking to see if the FY810 can handle 207 thread or thicker.

If you are curious about the sneaker work, here is a link to the video, a professional shoe maker making Air Jordans from a pattern and lasts. The 2nd photo are Hender Scheme Jordan 4s made by hand and sewing machine- this is the pinnacle of custom sneaker work (in my opinion) Thank you for helping me out. I promise to return the favor here after I make a few dozen mistakes.

Thanks alot, John G 

https://youtu.be/jQMoLl3g8VI?t=11

 

For customization and sewing patches onto existing shoes a patching machine would be the most popular choice. This type of machine allows you to sew into hard to reach areas and you can rotate the presser foot to sew in different directions. 

For shoe construction from scratch, you'll need a post bed, roller foot machine (preferably with reverse). The 810 type machines have a lower feed mechanism which feeds the material into the machine, with a roller foot to help guide and compress the material while sewing. You can sew 2-3 layers of thin/medium shoe leather with this type of machine. Maximum thread size on this type of machine is 92. For sewing thicker and more multi-layered materials you may want to look into a top and bottom feed machine with a gear driven roller feed.

As others have mentioned, a side wall sole stitcher is needed for sewing the upper to the sole.

Ron

 

Edited May 9, 2019 by Techsew Ron

[JohnG305]

Hi Ron, Thank you so much!!!! You helped me out enormously. Someday I may be able to afford a side wall sole stitcher but the Patcher is a less expensive way to get it done.  The 810 is half the price of a wheel feed so I may end up starting with a 810.  I didn't realize it had a lower feed mechanism. Thank you!

[JohnG305]

For the rest of the comments, I am laughing because I think ignorance is bliss. I am the blissful and ignorant one LOL!! Hilarious. Obviously I am am so green I know if I stick with this I can look back at this thread and laugh at myself trying to sew fake vinyl onto a cheap shoe. 

 

Edited May 9, 2019 by JohnG305

[JohnG305]

Guys, look at the 2nd shoe in the photo and the detail. It looks great to me. It is made completely by hand by Japanese cobbler.  I don't think he made these with the Singer Patcher. 

[JohnG305]

22 hours ago, dikman said:

Besides the fact I wouldn't wear anything like that (what's wrong with cowboy boots anyway ) imo the stitching looks terrible. The needle size is way bigger than the "original" and gives it a perforated look. Maybe they should have used heavier thread?

Yeah cowboy boots are eons ahead of these shoes, I am making them to sell and make $75 a pair. Maybe the heavier thread would work or a different color. I think the people buying them aren't as picky as we are because there is a lot of room for improvement, but kids are spending an extra $100 to have fake fashion fabric on their Vans. 

Edited May 9, 2019 by JohnG305

[mikesc]

If you make these,as you admit "fakes" you'd better put a lot of money aside for when LVMH catch up with you..It isn't because "everyone is doing it" or because "kids are spending an extra $100 to have fake fashion fabric on their vans" that it makes it either right or wise to make fakes. of other peoples designs.

I'd rather be honest than pretend to be blissfully ignorant that I was making fakes..

[Alexis1234]

I just saw on social media today - tack makers discussing where to get the LV  logo "leather/vinyl... they don't seem to care  if it's fake as long as it sells their bronc nosebands and tack sets .

[JohnG305]

Thank you Alexis. That is interesting that they are using  like the custom LV logos on saddles. 

[JohnG305]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate all of the responses.

[Techsew Ron]

6 hours ago, JohnG305 said:

Guys, look at the 2nd shoe in the photo and the detail. It looks great to me. It is made completely by hand by Japanese cobbler.  I don't think he made these with the Singer Patcher. 

The second shoe was constructed piece by piece, it looks like a double needle post bed machine was used on most of it. The first shoe was most likely modified with a patcher.

[JohnG305]

Ron thanks so much. I am learning alot here. With a double needle machine, you still have the single needle option?

[Techsew Ron]

10 hours ago, JohnG305 said:

Ron thanks so much. I am learning alot here. With a double needle machine, you still have the single needle option?

Yes you can simply remove one of the needles.

[Wizcrafts]

12 hours ago, JohnG305 said:

Ron thanks so much. I am learning alot here. With a double needle machine, you still have the single needle option?

Here is the machine Ron was referring to that produces the close double row stitches on shoe uppers.