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  2. kgg
    My take away is never ever trust someone else's measurements unless you get in writing and tell them if it is to short or long it's on them. Otherwise it is just too much wasted time / effort/ leather particularly something personalized or tooled should it go south. kgg
  3. LansingDrive
    @Tastech Thanks for that, yes that is a great machine and very much like the ones pictured in my comment. I am really interested to learn who created the design for that type of machine and when
  4. CowboyBob
    If you moved the hook to the left you "might" have too little clearance between the tab on the hook base & the cutout underneath the needle plate,you can either open up the cutout on the needle plate or move it slightly to the right.
  5. kgg
    I would go to your local hardware / auto store and see what they have. If the new one is to short / long exchange it for another. kgg
  6. kgg
    Just to add to this. @girlscout4 1. The needle has to be installed so the Groove (long channel on the shank) on the needle is to the left and the Scarf ( indentation / cutout ) on the right hand side as you look at it when sitting in front of the machine ready to sew. 2. You need to use a 135 x 16 x # needle for sewing leather. I think you maybe using a 135 x 17 x # needle which are made for fabric and will give you blowout on the underside. 3. You never said what size of thread and needle you are using. What size??? 4. A good thread to needle size chart can be found here ( https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html ) kgg
  7. kgg
    I don't think it will but that brings up the point is the needle bent or there is a lot of slop or a bend in the needle bar. Frankly I am surprised the hook is catching the top thread at all. The only thing I can figure is the top thread has so much slack the hook is somehow picking it up most times. kgg
  8. Today
  9. Handstitched
    Here in Oz , there's a TV program atm , ' Wheeler Dealers, where they buy unloved cars , fix them up, and sell them on. Tonight, they did an 80s ' Jeep Wagoneer' , ,it did remind me of your Suburban , it looked nice, when finished, but perhaps too nice,like brand new, but i would never take it to the places I've taken my landys , I'd scratch it, bend it to billy'o . HS
  10. WalterF

    Tobacco Pouch

    WalterF replied to WalterF's topic in Show Off!!

    Thank you, a food grade silicone. Thhank you, it can be frustrating. It is a food grade silicone, if I use a split zipper it may help. The challenge of something new keeps it interesting.
  11. Handstitched
    'I once saw a fish play a piano, it was a ' piano tuna ' HS
  12. ben27
    Hi all! I just registered on the forum. I have a Pfaff 145 and just bought a servo motor. The v belt that I had is now too long. it is an optibelt 10x1060. I tried measuring with a string and ended up with 97-99 cm inner diameter. Is there a way to keep using this belt? And if not, what belt do you recommend? Any people with experience with this clutch to servo swap? Thanks a lot!
  13. Mulesaw
    @dikman Ah, yes, that is a mistake from my side 🙂 In my head it was for powder, not the lead shots. I have never seen one of those before, so I thought it was for simultaneously filling powder in a double barrel muzzle loaded shotgun. But is the idea that you carry 2 sizes of shots? Or is it for a double barrel shotgun ? Brgds Jonas
  14. Gfei
    Gfei joined the community
  15. Samalan
    Beautiful job, Tim, as your work always is.
  16. Tastech
    Here is he previous post i was referring to . I am sure it is the same machine as this post mentions only a different brand name .
  17. Tastech
    I have seen the same machine with a different name. The machine in question i have seen was a Hugo Wertheim Melbourne . From my previous research i believe the machine was made under licence in melbourne. Hugo Werthiem also made smaller domestic machines and even piano's. Its been 5 years since i saw the machine and i really regret not buying it for $1200. If memory serves correct there was a recent post which has a picture of the Werthiem patcher .
  18. PastorBob
    Welcome from SW Missouri! Looks like you have been busy! Nice work!!
  19. PastorBob
    Great save! I haven't had to do that yet, but will file it away if I ever get the wrong measurement.
  20. chuck123wapati
    dope it up with Resolene or acrylic sealer, lol it'll be plenty stiff.
  21. AlZilla
    @kgg, well spotted! I wonder if turning the needle will better center it in the hole? I recently was playing with a domestic machine, having a problem shredding the top thread. Turned out the needle was off center and backwards, shredding the non groove side against the needle plate.
  22. kgg
    A couple of problems I found with your threading of the top thread. Without these corrected you will never get good stitching. 1. The needle is installed backwards. 2. Needle bar thread guide is missing. kgg
  23. Fonlandlaser

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  24. Harry121
    Harry121 joined the community
  25. anselo
    anselo joined the community
  26. Origibelts
    @dikman Hi Dikman, Good question — you’re not missing anything obvious. The prong/tongue area where it pivots is what tends to give out first on a lot of buckles. That’s what DieselTech was flagging. I’ve been beefing up that joint in my castings so it holds up better under stress. Best, John
  27. Origibelts
    @DieselTech Hi DieselTech, Thanks for pointing that out. The prong and the joint where it nests in the frame is definitely the area I’ve focused most on reinforcing during casting and finishing. I’ve been testing different thicknesses and alloys to make sure that part stands up to stress, since I know that’s where buckles usually fail. Best, John
  28. Origibelts
    @Mulesaw Hi Jonas, Thanks so much for the thoughtful feedback — that’s exactly the kind of perspective I was hoping to hear. I’m glad you noticed the little “dip” for the prong; that was something I experimented with to make the buckle both more solid and a bit easier to use. I’ll definitely take your points on board: strength and solidity first, then style and sizing in the 1.25" and 1.5" range. Roller and center bar buckles are already on my sketch pad, so it’s encouraging to hear those are useful for your work as well. And I hear you on finish — a straightforward brass look is also my preference, no plating or “bling.” It keeps the buckle honest, and it develops a patina that works well with leather over time. Really appreciate you taking the time to share your view. It helps me make sure what I produce is actually useful to makers like you. Best, John
  29. AlZilla
    When you turn the work, first bury the needle and raise it up a quarter inch. Raise the presser foot and turn the material. This allows the hook to catch the bobbin thread and prevent skipped stitches. Same thing with turning a corner. To begin a stitch line, start about 3 stitches down the line and sew back to where you wanted to start. Turn around and go in the direction you wanted to in the first place. At the end, you can just turn around and sew back 3 stitches. If you begin at the start, sew 3 ahead, then turn around and sew back to the beginning and THEN turn around yet again, sewing in the "right" direction, you have gone over the first 3 stitches 3 times! Way too many stitches in leather. Practice, practice, practice ...
  30. girlscout4
    The locking stitch is what I’m practicing right now on some scrap. I’m trying to go forward a few stitches. Spin it around do it again and then spin it around one more time but it’s tough realigning the holes. It was doing really good until this began happening. Messing with the tightness of the different thread tension points to get it perfect. I’ll check your other forum below to see what’s going on. Thanks so much!
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