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@Guell, I moved this to the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum. It should get proper attention here.

Hello everyone I am new to the site but know of it I have gathered much information here. I was wondering if anyone could help me with my singer 153 w-102 I'm going to add a little video to show my question and I'm wondering if this part is supposed to move like this. Or if everyone knows how I can make it tighter what I need to do? VID_20250830_095105035.mp4

Photos please...I am not familiar with this saddle that you mentioned, but may help with photos.

Great looking belt, and fabulous photographic skills!! Taking a decent picture generally is hard for me, and if it is a picture of a belt.. I am lost from the start. Brgds Jonas

Really? NOBODY thot this was funny? Er wuzya just commentin' cuz if'n yer wife seen ya ....

YEah, having tried both extensively -- I prefer to tool the HO. W/C does tool up nicely, but i rather like the firm HO after its done STILL, I like this work and as a rule I've always liked your work 👍 I'll say it out loud ... I ordered from ALD- ONCE. And will not do it again. Robert (mecopocketholsters) and I decided to try them a few years back. So we ordered three different TYPES of leather cuts from them, to try them out. Qute bad. I considered using it for lining other projects, but in the end, I threw it out. Robert - in TX - said the same thing. This would be THAT Robert, who made the best looking holster I ever dun seen, right down to this day ...

You need DA part #0667105100 which is the stud for synchronizer. Remove plastic plug and tap the stud in place. This is what the synchronizer mounts on. glenn

I'm impressed with how well the bridle leather submitted to your tooling. Very nice work. Mark of a pro is being able to fix things that aren't working out as originally planned.

Yup. There ya go.

Maybe shoot a video fer us. Cowboy Bob still round these parts? Bob prolly tell you in a minute wut the prollem is If I wuz gonna guess without seeing it (and I aint gonna) I might say theyz sumthin' putting drag on yer BOBBIN side ... But again - tell Bob is yer best bet. Bob is a GROWN MAN, capable of answering a simple question without trying to sell you something you don't need. Oh, and he's out yer way!

OH, OH, OH... I DID see one gun show about an hour from here.... we took a BIG bowl of individually wrapped candy for anybody who wants to help theyseff to it. No worries. Brightly colored tables and candy.... might as well have been a flashing red light But nothing much selling. COuple fellas ordered holsters for later shipment, which was fine and good. But the ONLY thing of QUALITY I saw there, barring us, was a older fella making gun slings. Making GOOD slings. NICE slings. Put yer name on em and finish em right there - pay, come back in half an hour and gityer stuff. Started - if I remeber right - around $90. After 2 days he wuz downta like half that, and STILL no orders. Guy spent most of the time over there eating candy and talking with me and my son ...

I'm the odd man out here. Again. WHile it's clear that Daytona loves bike stuff (and also spring break crap and racing stuff) I can tell you what i"ve seen over the years. If you make "quick, cheap, token" items for quick sale, that's what you'll be remembered for. IF you want to get known for quality, lasting, CRAFTED goods, then I suggest that you start making and offering that right from teh start. 👍 When we did "shows", we always had those little "key fob" things with a tandy stamp on there and a key ring. We didn't sell them - we GAVE THEM to little kids. Cost us less than $1 and a minute er two each. REASON being it made the kids happy to get SOMETHING, and thus they weren't putting their hot dog soaked hands on a 3-digit handbag or a $100+ holster .. no mustard on the goods SOME of the girls (mostly) would hear there wuz some dummy over that was givin free stuff for the kids and show up, with no intention of buying anything. Which is fine - no harm done (plus, we LIKE kids as a rule). I can't even tell you for a fact that we ever sold anything BECAUSE of these little things - prolly not. But it did make room for those who wanted to see the real stuff. At the shows, we had some stuff you could touch, feel, smell... and ALSO some photos of other stuff you could order. BUT WE QUIT doing 'shows" ... SO MANY people love to go to these things for "something to do"... might as well have been a walk in the park with a hot dog vendor (and sometimes the food guy was the ONLY one making any money). Last straw for me was when i went to a supposed so-called "gun show" and had a guy telling me all about the wonderful holster he bought from a guy who "designs them hissself""... and then showed me a picture of MY holster he bought from this somebody I showed him the DESIGN, but he just wasn't having it - ya kaint fix stupid. This guy wasn't there to buy anything either... just wanted to "talk guns" with some other people not there to buy anything....

@LorenaLynn,I split you out into a new topic rather than tagging onto a 10 year old thread.A couple of pictures of the machine would help to ensure you actually have the machine you think you do.

I would recommend that all queries go through this site, whether as posts, or via the message option. Using email puts your email address out there for all the spam bots to pickup and start harassing you. If you prefer, we can completely remove your email address from your post. There are routines that can quickly rebuild your email address, even though I obfuscated your address.

Great job. That belt turned out really nice.

If selling is your priority you must think like a seller. Regardless of what you choose to make, your target audience is about to walk past your stall in seconds not minutes. Your job is to catch their eye and get their attention. Bright colours rather than classic brown. Most won't give a toss if you stitches are nice and neat or did you use Tokenole on those edges. Once you have their attention the next thing they'll look at is price. Most won't start the day with buying in mind and might not have a lot of cash in their pocket. Of course if you are able to take card payments. that a whole different ball game and product range.

Has anything changed about your setup (needle size, thread size, leather thickness)? Have you rethreaded the top thread to verify that the path is correct? Would you be willing to measure the top and bottom tensions and report back?

Did you buy this from a reseller or direct from the tannery? Is this supposed to be normal vegtan tooling leather - not milled, dyed, jacked, rolled or otherwise treated? Does it look way different in color or feel than the other sides? It just appears a little glossy in the picture. The three evenly spaced vertical crease lines looks like it was almost folded or flattened. How long did you have it before you found this side was subpar? What do you use to measure thickness and where on the side?

Maybe a strap saying: Daytona beach 2025. Just a small strip of leather with either stamped or branded onto it. Make a hole and a cut in one end, so it can be attached to a regular button on a vest or a denim jacket. You could make the same strap as a keyfob. But like @chuck123wapati said, what are your own ideas? You could make custom chaps, or belts or leatherwrapped locking chains (for keeping your motorcycle locked and still looking good), but it is easier to give hints/help if we know sort of what you'd like to bring yourself. Brgds Jonas

Trash!! looks like someone rolled it up backwards a few dozen times. Yea I had a similar problem. You know what, i didn't call them out until I called them back and was given a sorry, ship it back on your dime, and we will re-sell it to some other shmuck conversation. Those middleman suppliers need to learn to send the crap back to the tanners when they receive it, not pass it on. However, so many folks now just don't know what 'good' leather is supposed to look like that they take the easy way out.

Give you advice or do it for you? What are your thoughts and ideas, and I'll help expand on those.

Awesome!!! I am glad, folks don't always think about how and why buckles are shaped the way they are but they are designed for certain size belt straps and are overlooked quite often in the belt making process.

No, not fully yet. I made that one for myself several years ago I don't think its a meerschaum. Its just a pipe I keep and use to show the pipe rest 'in action' I got ye. But I think the leather is too lite weight to hold a phone, It wud just fall over

Put a couple of notches on that strap, about 1/3 to 1/2 the width of the leather, at an angle, and somewhere around where the widest part of the pipe bowl is, and it could probably also serve as a cellphone holder. I hope that description is good enough!! I can see it in my head, but putting into words is not so easy. - Bill

I would like to make a deerskin vest or jacket. For that I need deerskin, which I need to purchase. The thing is, I received free deerskins some time ago and used one of them to make moccasins, which I have been using daily. They get dirty and I wash them, saddle soap and a scrub and rinse under the kitchen tap, then squeeze gently and allow to dry. Then wear again. They don't shrink or wrinkle or dry out. I conditioned them once with the Chemical guy conditioner and never since then. They are soft and comfortable and going strong. They are clearly chrome-tanned, the gold color one sees so much of. I want similar deerskins for my jacket. When I look online though, all I see is that deerskin should not be washed, certainly not like I wash my moccasins, and then loads of information on how to clean buckskin and deerskin, all saying, "DON"T WASH". I got another deer-skin, also clearly chrome tanned - it is a light mocha in color, in another lot, and that does not take to water well. It does what everyone says happens - darkens, stiffens and the color change is permanent. Luckily I tried it on a small cut-out piece, so the entire thing is not damaged. So my question is, can anyone guide me on how to select deerskins that are like those of my moccasins and not the mocha one? I have been searching online and cannot find information on that. Deerskin is too expensive to do a 'trial and error'.