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Yeah, that's exactly the guy in going to call ...

@cowagonwheel I would ad a caution that leather harness that old with unknown care should most likely be retired for display only. Really bad things can happen really fast if harness gives way while pulling a load. You didn't say if you were cleaning for use or display so I thought I would throw this out there. Todd

It's hard to determine what the white is without pictures. It could be mold, sweat, dirt, wax, or some type of chemical. When washing down saddlery it's common for the dye to rub off. Leather becomes soft when wet and can be indented easily, let it dry completely before putting unnecessary pressure. First thing I do when a saddle comes to my shop is to brush as much of the dirt and grime I can. As I'm cleaning I start determining what needs to be replaced or repaired. I can do small repairs and replacement but if the saddle needs to be broken down I don't take on the job. Normally I remove the stirrups completely but these would not come out and if they were going to be this difficult removing they were going to be harder to get back in. I then start to wipe it down with warm water to get any mud off as well as softening any waxes. I then go at it with saddle soap, warm water, and a sponge or toothbrush. I wipe it down with warm water as I go so the soap doesn't dry on the saddle. Once I'm satisfied with how clean the saddle is I let it dry for at least a day. Then I oil it with neatsfoot oil and let the oils soak in for about a day. At this point I determine whether or not to add some dye if to much dye came off while washing it and let it dry. I then wax. I use Fiebing's Leather balm with atomic wax and get great results. Before After washing and letting it dry After

This is a machine type question, so I have moved your post to Leather Sewing Machines.

Appears not to have any interest in following up. Hasn't been back to the site since he posted. @Moscho I am locking and archiving this post.

We are very pleased to meet you. Bespoke shoes are one of the most fascinating expressions of leatherwork, and technically complicated. Yours look outstanding. Please tell us more. Bardzo dobry ~J

For information on motor types, you may enjoy reading: Option A: Digital Servo Motor Option B: Universal Motor with Triac Speed Control

I have a very worn and loose Consew 225 that I have added a belt and pulley speed reduction and pedal linkage to slow it down almost manageable. A friend passed away who had a Juki LU 562. Very pristine, been adjusted, looks brand new, has reverse which I am sure is a nice option. Juki now for sale. The Consew is inside a building with a lot of other benches that would make it very difficult to swap table and all, and also the Consew table has the speed reduction. Can I do a direct swap to the Consew table with the Juki head, and save all the table swap? Don’t use it much but the Consew requires an hour fiddling to sew 10 minutes.

My collection of shoes and accessories combines traditional craftsmanship with artistic expression, turning each pair into a wearable statement. The designs draw from fine art and Japanese aesthetics, balancing elegance with individuality. A distinctive feature of my work is the use of interchangeable magnetic jewelry accessories, an idea I developed to let the wearer transform the form and character of their shoes — from subtle and classic to bold and expressive — with a simple change of detail. Every piece is handmade, unique, and created to celebrate both style and personal story.

That's the one I've got. Handles 2pt but not 3pt. Should be good on your banding dikman. I use a longer piece of tubing over mine.

That's it, I've committed. One of the ' lumps' is thawing out as I type. Its around 2kg . I'll cook it s-l-o-w-l-y on Saturday. It will either be nice juicy and tender , or I'll be able sole my shoes with it . I'll let you know how it goes at the weekend. Thankfully I can freeze the cooked meat if I have a lot left over, soups etc. HS

these work pretty well. https://durston.com/product/ring-shank-bender/

@gordonl We stock these from size #19-#27

@AlZilla That guy in Toledo has them!

Brasso. Or tamarind paste. Rinse both out well once clean.

I played around with a piece of the banding and it looks promising. It's pretty tough and springy but can be hammered into a right angle without snapping. Heating it to anneal it makes no difference, as does heating and quenching. It can be filed to give a sharp edge but obviously won't be quite as hard as the proper steel rule. I also have a hand tool that is used to punch/crimp the banding to the steel house framing (I had no idea what to do with it but for $5 at the time it just looked useful ), it punches a rectangular hole but I should be able to make a new pin and anvil to punch a small round hole. My biggest challenge though is to make a bending jig/machine to shape the stuff. It won't be difficult, just a matter of digging through all my "stores" to see what can be re-purposed.

In the kitchen for stainless I use: 1/2 Quart Water 50ml Hydrogen Peroxide 1oz Citric Acid I don't know why the mixed units. That's just how it came to me. Do your own research. Prolonged exposure to citric acid will leach zinc from the brass.

Wow! I thought I looked high and low. If they're available overseas, they must be available here. Thank you!

Hello everyone! After a death in my family, I recieved my family's very old draft team harnesses. Initally, I know they were stored in a basement in a darker area in a plastic tote. And honestly I don't know if they have ever been cleaned in their entire lifetime. Upon examination, it looks like they have white spots all over. After many hours of research and gathering my materials I started with 2 tests to get the white off, only on a very tiny spot. 1st: Using a hair dryer on low heat and far away from the leather I was trying to see if the white was fat spores coming up. Some did go away while other parts of the white stayed. 2nd: I used a vinegar and water mix and let it dry on it's own, then used saddle soap. After the cleaning step, my next step was to use pure Neatsfoot oil to condition then a neutral leather shoe polish with a horse hair brush and canvas. BUT during the process of cleaning I noticed the leather was almost "molding" and moving itself very slightly( as i touched it with my finger, my finger left a very slight indention.) Also, when I was dapping up some of the moisture from the saddle soap test, the rag had brought up brown. Again I don't know if its dirt or leather. On the test part, where I had originally seen very faint stitching had disappeared. I don't believe the stitching is gone but I did not want to go any further and risk the chance of So so sorry for a long explanation I just wanna make sure I explained it correctly. Is there other methods I should try? Or should I only condition them and leave them be? THANK YOU!

Looking at this picture I belive the Singer 107w hinges are the same. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/202258-210844-machine-hinge-hook-singer-107w.html?srsltid=AfmBOopJb1ilppAZoElRixRJKheoNF9ftFELvIPI6Cw_MaVvn7w75taq https://armastore.eu/210844-singer-107w-hinge-hook You will get them on your end as well just check the numbers online But I would probably buy the female part too - you never know....

Yes whoever invented the layback sewing machine deserves a prize 🦄

Servo motors: You can use either a brushed or brushless servo motor on any industrial sewing machine and it is a straight swap out as the mounting hole pattern is the same. You may have to move the "go" pedal slightly to the left or right. You can buy from a vendor or from Amazon / Temu / Ebay but you are not limited to the dealer should you want / have to change the motor. Brushless servo motors come in typically three puke flavours. Cheap ones have 6 internal coils for the servo motor, mid grade have 9 internal coils and the better ones have 12 internal coils typical wattage ratings of 1/2 hp to 1 hp. The more internal coils the better. Brushed servo motors are simpler to repair with no computer controls, longer lasting with typical wattage ratings of 1/2 hp to 1 hp so less frustration. kgg

i'm kind of stuck looking for bed hinges. They're originally from a Wheeler & Wilson D12 (Singer bought W&W in 1905 and this 111w156 is related to the D12). I need to work back and forth under the bed and up top. Flopping around on the bench is a pain in the ass.

Many of us, including me, use this type of "brushed" servo motor: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/motors.html. Unlike the one you linked to and own, which starts at 200 rpm, this motor starts turning over smoothly from zero rpm when you move the foot pedal down. There is no jerky start, nor any complicated electronics panels to replace. The only parts that experience wear are the two carbon brushes, two of which which come extra with the motor. I've yet to go through the original brushes in a motor I installed around 2014.

Yeah, I'm a slow learner...