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No help with the little Consew. I am not usually a Tandy basher but I would seriously like to see anyone at Tandy do even half of what they say that machine can do. The Janome - run away fast. That is a fabric machine. If they tell you it is what you need, that tells me all I need to know about their knowledge of sewing leather and/or business integrity. For what it costs you can buy the heaviest duty leather machine out there. Look up Bob Kovar or Leather Machine Co - people that sell real leather sewing machines. @Wizcrafts to customer service please

@dray25luera Greetings and welcome to the forum. Someone will be along to help you with the problem you're having with your current mchine. 2 suggestions - first, tell us what it is you're sewing so the experts can make suggestions regarding if you have the right machine. Next, read through the below thread to acquaint yourself with the variety of machine types available and their best uses.

Can you post photos of the thread path? What size and kind of thread are you using? What material are you stitching, and what size needle?

Aww well..

Hello, I am a novice to the craft and recently made the decision to purchase a sewing machine, I made the mistake of going for something that was affordable at the time instead of doing further research. I ended up purchasing the Consew T-1919 through Tandy. I have since read many of the forums on here and realize my mistake. I am currently having the hardest time getting a stitch going (which could definitely be user error). The thread seems to be snapping in the tension knob so I have tried lowering the tension and it still seems to snap or unthread itself. Long story short, I have searched high and low on videos or information on this machine to see if i am the problem or not. I have come up empty. So for one, does anyone have any advice or knowledge on this machine? Two, I have talked to some people at a sewing place and they have got me interested in the Janome Memory Craft 6700P. Anybody with information on this machine and if it is worth me investing in?

WOW!! That top is SO elegant. Did you drill the holes or use an awl to get through all those layers? Brgds Jonas

It's looking really good! I have been toying with the idea of making a die (just for a key fob), I got a used blade for a band saw that I plan on using. I am going to silver solder the ends together, but the sharpening I haven't quite figured out yet. It might be the easiest to do before bending I guess. But anyway, thanks for a lot of fine inspiration:-) Brgds Jonas

Billybop, that service still exists. It's called The War Amps: https://www.waramps.ca/ways-we-help/key-tags/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=63428541&gbraid=0AAAAADx3latKA-J4D64VEc1nhN-s87J9c&gclid=CjwKCAjwq9rFBhAIEiwAGVAZP7FXiQQo_rgeWaK0rq1JRJukUVntf5-RjdXPRwq2ZmWv56QI5MutxhoCgzkQAvD_BwE It's only in Canada, unfortunately. But they are good people, and do a wonderful service for amputees, as well as returning lost keys for their subscribers!

Bulldogs were bred to bite and not let go (The long-banned sport of bull baiting is what they were originally bred for!) The original bulldog is now such a genetic mess they can no longer reproduce without human help, will drown if they fall into a pool, and often suffer from heat stroke in hot weather because they no longer have a muzzle to cool the air when they pant. Despite this, those bull-baiting bulldog genes can sometimes resurface, and it ain't pretty when it happens! Was this an American bulldog or a British? The Americans were bred to get rid of all the health problems the British dog has. They are longer-legged, actually have a muzzle and can breathe better. They can also move faster and are more agile, which makes them more dangerous if they want to bite someone. During my time owning a boarding kennel, the dog that gave me the biggest scare was a boxer. I was trying to get him back into his kennel, and he jumped straight up in the air to face level. For an awful moment, I though he was going to grab for my throat! Fortunately, my kennel helper came along, and called him from inside the kennel, and he went to her. But those were a tense couple of minutes, facing off with that dog!

Nice work. Looks great. Yeah I bet your hands are sore. Outstanding work.

I did buy some synthetic transmission oil. Somewhat surprised it's still red. 🍎 But it smells neutral. Actually even the diesel has not much smell when it's just a few drops. I'm not even doing it on the porch---too much strain. Just right in the living room, a couple drops of diesel and then shut the arm cap. Nobody has complained 😀

Yes you are. I have been following your progress and it is damn good. kgg

Thank you all so much for the replies, really appreciate it.

Not MY thing at all, but I can tell you my sister and my daughter would be in line for those

Oh, you're buying it 'retail" - that's different indeed. I generally get HO ..FROM H.0. This means buying 10 sides, but I figger I'll use it so it's fine. Just going through it a bit slower than the saddle makin' crew. The ONLY place I ever recommend for buying HO in smaller quantities is GOLIGER LEATHER. Cheryl has always shipped great leather (when you order "A" you GET "A") and the service is just as good. Only thing I could possibly not like about it is the shipping CA to the midwest is a bit spendy,... but unavoidable. So AGAIN - Goliger has never sent me a piece of leather I wasn't happy with. I have TRIED to work with others over the years, with little to praise for it. YEARS ago I could walk into The Leather Factory (before it was "tandy leather factory - I don't know if they bot it or if they already owned it back then and were running under a different name), pick out some hides, and be tooling GOOD leather at a GOOD price in an hour. That place is still in Des Moines, IA ... now called TANDY leather factory... and largely filled with JUNK (and the manager last time I was there is a jerk - if they know what's good for them they've got rid of him by now). Back when, you could just call and in a couple days you had a solid chunk of leather that was 90% good stuff (and 10% of the less firm edges for testing dye and stain colors is fine). Now, I won't buy anything there unless I find time to go hand pick it. And HOW MANY times did I order at SLC and get ... EWWWW. I explained to them that I buy from Hermann Oak, but sometimes I just need one or two sides of a different weight. Usually I would order a "back", cuz i don't care for the belly leather. More than once they cut it the wrong way (seriously, not a joke). And SO many times the leather I got was FAR from being the "B" grade i ordered. I'd call and explain to them again that I HAVE "B" from HO and yours looks nothing like that. Honestly, I think they're SO geared at retail sales that they don't really "grasp" that somebody would actually know the difference (and they're counting on that). ANY RATE, they'd always apologize, offer to send me a different piece... not charge me shipping for returning the doormat they called leather.... BUT I finally just had to tell em that while they'd never "stuck" me with a piece they refused to take back, the time I was having to spend straightening it out just made it not worth the trouble. I have purchased some good leather from S-T Leather (st louis), but it has been hit and miss, not consistent. I ordered leather from Weaver Leather. Once. Never again. Some of the worst hides I've ever seen. And you've already seen my vomiting up ALD above. And the W/C I generally order FROM W/C as well. I think the smallest piece they sell is backs, so like 17-18 sq ft. But it's good leather. I use the "holster" leather for what it sounds like, though it TOOLS very nicely. I'M not sure how it's different from their "tooling" hides, which are quite nice. As I mentioned before, it's a bit less "firm" than HO leather, assuming the same treatment. The hides are generally quite clean - not a lot of waste. I think like twice (or was it 3) over the years I had an issue worth discussing over there, and was always met with an acceptable outcome. My "pitch" to the places I buy leather is simple. I don't mind PAYING premium price, long as I'm GETTING premium leather. I tell em right on the phone.... send me the best piece you have and charge me accordingly. IF the leather is good, and the service is good, you won't hear me complain about the cost. Other side of the coin is... free shipipng is no favor if you're shipping me landfill material.

Good morning Guys. moved this "topic" to the used machines for sale forum. I need to move this machine along to a new caretaker.

Time to move my 346 along to a new caretaker. I picked up this cylinder arm machine about three years ago and have had it in dry storage since. While recommissioning it recently, I found that it does not reliably pick up the bobbin thread. This adjustment is beyond my skill set. Buyer gets the machine, table and clutch motor. A table/insert to provide a flat surface, a 3-ring binder with useful info such as manuals and parts list. Pickup on west central Connecticut. $400.00. test reply by gary

Posted in wrong forum, cannot see how to delete

Welcome to the forum from Denmark. The Singer patchers are fantastic machines. Have fun restoring yours. Brgds Jonas

Just finished up an axe sheath for my son-in-law. Probably the last time I sew something that thick, but I had an idea and wanted to see if it would work. It did, but my fingers are sore. Lol

I would knock as much rust off as you can with a wheel or brush. Then soak in EvapoRust or Metal Rescue - WD-40 makes a similar product I have not tried. Wire wheel off the residue, use what ever abrasives are indicated to work out deep pitting, oil dip and work the hinges some, oil again until it comes out clear. Might end up OK. Here are a few I have had through here with the cast bells. The #10005 is a Barnsley.

And I'll echo those ^^^^ words . . . May God bless, Dwight

I'm going to be the outlier on the edges. While admitting they might be more attractive if polished and concealed, I think they look fine as they are. To me, edges that are totally concealed and finished to hide the seams just look like cheap vinyl that could be spit out of any factory, 10,000 before lunch time. To each, their own.

Welcome from SW Missouri, USA. You are now joined! Lots of knowledgeable folks on here regarding sewing machines.

I have a cordless electric Ryobi wood planer. I can shave down a 2x4 nicely with it. I wonder if a stiff piece of veg tan would be "plane able." Running it over softer leather sounds like a recipe for a tangle up in the blade and might be unsafe. Maybe if I skive perpendicular to the edge instead of trying to run it lengthwise it might stand a chance of allowing for a nice rolled edge? The heavy veg tan this would likely work well on seems like the type I have the best chance of doing a decent job with a knife skive by hand anyway. The softer chrome tans are where I think I'll make a bad skive and screw it up.