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Amish do tend to migrate. I used to shoot allot. Not so much anymore though (Age/money). Younger brother made a living for 15 years shooting Service Rifle but even he's retired now. LOL
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This shaft has a clamp on the other end that you need to loosen only when your setting the needlebar to match the feed dog.Otherwise it should be tight & only move when you turn the handwheel.There's a hole on the backside of the casting to access the big screw on the clamp.
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I used to sell heaps of those on my stall, in 3 different sizes, they were very popular . That and many other 'western themed 'products . I won't name the company that I bought from, but it was in Pennsylvania . I even bought one for my mother . But economics have changed and I no longer buy them. HS
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Hiya, my name's Milo, I'm based in Glasgow and just getting started out with leatherwork proper. I've done a few repairs to broken accessories, replaced some buckles and the like, and am just getting started on making my own stuff from scratch My background coming into this is the world of kink and leatherfolk, where I run some events including for folk who appreciate leather gear and clothing. I don't know how common a background that is here but I'm sure many of you will have encountered us at one point or another. I know how to sew and some basic garment construction, how to care for leather items and repair leather, and other crafting bits and bobs. My main desire is to make accessories, harnesses, cuffs, etc. I'm just getting started on my first projects making some cuffs and keyrings, as well as my first big project which is a boot harness. Really glad to see a forum like this exists and it's really cool to see everyone's projects! I'm looking forward to learning a lot.
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Introducing Bob’s Brassware (Kenya)
Bobs Brassware replied to Bobs Brassware's topic in Member Gallery
Thanks, @AlZilla — I thought about your comment again and went ahead and added domestic shipping options. Really appreciate the tip — that was super helpful! John -
Found the issue. The shaft running along the bottom of the head is really stiff! I can move it the offset on it by prying it back and forth. I'm guessing this should move easily. I want to get the shaft out and clean it and the bore it goes in. Is there any mechanical object holding that shaft in the head once the parts are removed from both sides? I have been able the tap it out a bit, but don't want to force it if something needs to be removed such as a set screw. Thank you for all of the input each and everyone!
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That’s a nice looking bandolier!
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Long Arm Highlead GC20698-2 for sale. Asking $3500 It's been in storage for awhile, but was lightly used. Machine is located in Metro Detroit, MI. I'm willing to crate for a fee, though pickup would be easiest. I also have a Fortuna skiver for sale. I would be willing to do a package deal for both items. Thanks! Matt
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Communityoldman joined the community
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Fortuna Skiver Model V50S for sale. Asking $1500 It's been in storage for awhile, but was pulled in working order. Machine is located in Metro Detroit, MI. I'm willing to crate for a fee, though pickup would be easiest. I also have a long arm twin needle sewing machine for sale. I would be willing to do a package deal for both items. Thanks! Matt
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Almost finished. Far more work than I'd bargained for and my hands didn't thank for making the loops a bit tight. Quite happy with the result though. I haven't seen any for sale that include cartridges and these are ballistic tipped, our laws over hre are pretty strict even on components for making so I had to make sure they definitely couldn't be re used.
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Thanks, I'll check that out. WOW......that's 160 miles from Arthur!! A bit of a stretch for his horses! Are you a highpower shooter?
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I'd say so. Years ago I read John Bianchi's book on holsters (1980's). In it he detailed a bit that they would treat molded and dried holsters with neatsfoot oil, then place in the California sun for that rich golden glow and then treat with hard wax. Resolene would have pretty much the same effect as using hard wax/mop and glo, etc. Bianchi was without doubt the expert on the subject. If such a thing worked for him, it will work for you. Just don't saturate the leather with Neatsfoot. I personally don't like Resolene. Your results may vary, so if it works for you, use it. I'd suggest Weaver tough Kote (or Tough Kote in BLACK) over resolene. It's similar, but slightly more matte than bright glossy. (Ok, may or may not be available in the EU?) I've used lots of Feibings Pro Dye (Oil Dye) and I never really had any stiffening or drying out to speak of. The cheaper Feibings dye is far worse for drying out your leather though. Are you sure you're not using it instead?
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I received the 3 sets I ordered today. The L & R and needle feet fit fine but there is a difference in design and finish between the L & R but should work as intended. The "both" foot needed a touch with a Dremel stone to open up the width of the fork by the screw hole to allow the screw to pass through the hole, about 0.1mm. I've had this with some other feet sets in the past so no surprise.
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I did watch the video. I had to go look at my 153. I found the clamp in the attached pic that looks like it would affect the position of the needle bar. Haven't a clue. Yet. EDIT: The part number is Simanco 202666 and comes back as "Rock Frame Position Bracket". Do we have a winner?
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butchmutt joined the community
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Is the handwheel easy to turn? Have you oiled the machine? (Do add some oil if not) Does the needle bar move front to back if you push it with your hands? You will need to find the clamp that Wyowally references and verify that it is indeed moving the "needle bar rock frame rock shaft" as singer calls it. We are looking for the clamp at the far right end of that shaft. If the clamp is loose, tighten it. Make sure the clamp and the rock shaft both move together when you turn the handwheel. If neither the shaft nor the clamp move when you turn the handwheel, flip the machine on its back and inspect the parts underneath that drive that clamp. If the shaft does move but still no movement at the needle bar, take the left end cover off the machine and find the crank arm at the left end of that shaft. Here's a photo of my singer 144W103 with the needle bar rock frame removed, and the yellow arrow points to the crank arm you want to check for movement.
- Yesterday
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Hand-sewing and zips. Bane of my existence!
Northmount replied to HondoMan's topic in Sewing Leather
Moved your post to Sewing Leather -
I moved your post to Marketplace Items For Sale Miscellaneous/Other
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Replacement Pulley for Tapered Shaft
friquant replied to friquant's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Can you post an amazon link? -
Thank you! I've removed covers and have attempted to find something out of the ordinary. Were you able to watch the video I posted about the issue? Looking forward to hearing what you find. Dan
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I have a couple of this class machine but haven't run into this problem. Forgive me if you've done this, but it seems like popping that cover off and turning it by hand should yield some kind of clue. Just observing and following the mechanism back. I poked around a bit and couldn't find any videos on adjusting the needle bar position other than height. Tomorrow if it's warm in the craft room I'll look at mine and see if anything jumps out at me. Now I'm curious, too.
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I think he moved? Two years ago I sent him a list of parts I wanted in writing to his long published Arthur IL address and I didnt hear back. A year ago I call his answering service and he called me back. Said he never received my order so I gave it to him then. When the parts came his invoice was overstamped McLeansboro. 6373 County Rd 400 N, McLeansboro, IL 62859.
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FOR SALE - Cowboy CB12 Hydraulic Clicker Press - CLEAN - $2800
soulcraftgoods replied to soulcraftgoods's topic in Old/Sold
SOLD
