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Good information Bruce. I knew size numbers varied by mfr, but didn't know where was a method behind their madness.

I like 1/8th" craft foam. It's about the thickness of 8 ounce leather and gives me a good idea how things are going to align and fit together. I don't sew anything or make a full prototype. Once I get it satisfactory, I have a craft foam pattern.

Except I go for it all the way, tooling and finishing to boot, if it's good first time around that a win, if it's not then it's a lot of good practice for the whole project. I usuallypractice my tooling and finishing a couple of times on scrap beforehand to help make that good first try.

Merry Christmas to you and yours, and everyone here.

Merry Christmas to all! Even that chick in Canada!

The whole topic of edgers came up in an email yesterday. I made the reply that edgers could be an hour long topic in a class (easily). I did a thumbnail reply in another thread about types of edgers. Besides type, the other common question with edgers is "What size?" Here is my take. There are no standards for the number sizing for edgers between makers. One makers #2 may be different than another maker's #2. Even among a single maker the measured size/number may vary between styles of edgers. Historically the Gomph, HF Osborne, and vintage CS Osborne edgers were all 1/16 inch of cut per size number. For example the #1 was 1/16" of cut, the #3 was 3/16 inch of cut. Somewhere along the line, the sizes changed and a #3 now from a maker might be 3 mm, 1/16 inch, or some other measurement. The key is to know the maker edger style and then the actual cut measurement. What size of cut edger do you need? Everybody has a preference but here is mine. For most work like flat goods, belts, etc. I want my edger to have a cut width around 1/3 the thickness of the leather for edging top and bottom. For a 12 ounce piece (3/16 inch) I grab a 1/16 inch edger. For an 8 ounce piece (8/64") then I go with something like 3/32 inch of cut. These widths do two things - 1) they don't get into my stitch line on edges and 2) they round off the square edges and leave about half the edge of the piece square. By the time you rub that edge it will compress and shape some and that 1/2 thickness remaining square rounds over more. I like that look and feel for most work. If you want a heavier rounded edge for some applications (saddle horn or skirts) then choose an edger around half the thickness of the leather.

It was very handy to be able to adjust it in increments. I had been breaking needles attempting to stitch through a 1/2" (12mm) stack of vinyl and foam (auto upholstery project). So I disconnected the belt and ran a few stitches by hand on a thick test piece and it wasn't very many stitches by hand before the hook point tried to bisect the needle. Ah-ha! After that discovered the needle guard adjustment screw, put some medium strength thread-locker on it, and backed the set screw out until the needle guard mostly prevented contrived collisions of the same sort. Then put it back together and stitched that troublesome seam in one pass (relief!). Not seeing any skipped stitches or unraveled thread yet (If I did I would think I had gone too far with the adjustment.)

I use the leather I would normally use but I don't spend any time with carving it. A holster uses very little leather, maybe $30? If it's a failure, I throw it away and if it's good to go then I have a knock around holster for camping and such.

Hi guys, when you design a new holster pattern and are ready to build the first prototype what are you using leather wise? I have always used what I have laying around but I noticed if it’s not the correct weight leather it throws of the stichlines. I have read some people use bellies of foam what’s the best way to go?

Thanks Bruce I appreciate it. This should be a sticky.

Coffee is dripping, kettle is boiling, my dog is enjoying her Christmas breakfast, and I'm just waiting for my sweetheart to get up. Merry Christmas!

Hope everyone is having the best Xmas they can whilst sparing a thought for those for whom Xmas will never be great again. And let's hope that 2026 will be a productive year.

Merry Christmas everyone!

Merry Christmas everyone!

It's 6:39 here, and I have just finished putting some cinnamon rolls together for the family when they wake up...you know those real gooey upside-down ones lol.

Merry Christmas!

If you’re keeping your blade vertical to the work, which it looks like you are since I don’t see any undercutting, it is probably too much moisture. I’ve never had any success with the fridge method of casing it always comes out too wet for me.

Thank you. It’s the first time I’ve made anything other than reins out of harness it skives and punch holes in it a lot easier than veg tan. Probably from all the oil and wax in it. Have a Merry Christmas. Thank you. I got the lace idea from the one I was coping measurements from. My mother in law saw that and really liked it also. Have a Merry Christmas.

Very nice work. I agree with Tom about the lettering. If the tapering was unintended just claim you designed it like that, it looks really good.

Merry Christmas, everyone!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thank you very much for the response.

Turned out nice. I like how you laced the brow band on the crown.

That's a nice adjustment system. The shuttles on my walking foot machines have a thin steel plate that can be bent in or out to limit the position of the needle. However, in my experience, the needles seem to almost always get pulled away from the hook and deflector shield. It would probably have more protective effect on larger needles, like #22 and up than on thin needles, like #18 through 20.

Happy Christmas everyone!

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