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In my mind, the latch (or gate) (or gap) is the thing the thread attempts to cross. The latch is comprised of these two pieces together: the bottom of the throat plate which has a wide gap in it, and the piece of the bobbin case that exists in that wide gap, sometimes at the front of the gap and sometimes at the back of the gap. Okay. I'll bet you'd rather wait for the new one than try all the things we suggested 😉

This is the before Friquant. It's the old wobbly case. Won't get to install the new hook/case until maybe this weekend. Thread is Coats Dabond V138 for which the machine is rated. I've tried adjusting the case opener arm both ways in tiny increments. I cannot find a happy medium that pulls the case anti-clockwise enough to open the gap enough on the rear/far side of the case tab, yet opens the gap between the case opener arm and the triangular outcrop on the case when the thread goes around the other side of the hook. I can get one or the other but not both. This is why I'm suspecting the slop in the case and how it leans towards the needle plate, to be a potential cause of the problem. Regarding the latch. I'm kind of guessing at the moment at what part is referred to as the latch, so I'd better not go further before I make sure I'm on the same page as everyone. The curved arm that's operated by the eccentric under the hook, I've been calling that the case opener arm. The case opener arm pulls against the triangular outcrop on the case to rotate it anti-clockwise. This is where the biggest problem is as the gap between these two comes too late and the thread gets stuck there a little. Then there's the tab of the case that sits in the slot of the needle plate. So is one of those being referred to as the latch.

You've lost me on that one Wizcrafts. The case opener arm is at the same height as the triangular outcrop on the case on which it pulls against.

Very nice indeed! Could you post a few stills please?

Please read the marketplace rules and conform. You must provide condition of equipment, any information or restrictions on shipping, and photos when possible. Failure to conform may result in your ad being blocked. See the marketplace rules here https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/70-announcements/

Polyester thread is UV resistant and a lot cheaper than $180.00 per lb.polyester does not stretch either and works great in needle and awl machine. Link to Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine's thread and needle chart. Bob sells thread and goes by sewmun on the site. https://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html This chart has metric and imperial.

It rarely snows here but when it does its usually 1 inch deep. But in '81 I was snowed in on a Mountain for 4 days. It was a bad winter here, the petrol and diesel in the post vans froze solid. I was a postie and was delivering a telegram to a mountain farm. Getting there was no problem. I had a hot whiskey then found my van was snowed in. Stayed overnight at the farm and next day took to getting back to base. I only got so far. I abandoned the van and found a shepherds hide, a stone built shelter. It was fully equipped with survival gear - tins of soup, tins of beans, tea, coffee, the means of a fire and lighting it a few old wool blankets. I spent the night in there. The next day an army helicopter, out looking for me, spotted me but blizzard conditions were too bad for them to land so they dropped me more supplies. Two more days in the shelter then a bit of a thaw and I could get away. I left the extra supplies the army dropped in the shelter for the next person. I reckon my survival training in the RAF kept me alive I often take an 'emergency supply' of food and things in my car yet. And my #1 son used to laugh at it until one dark night. . . . but thats another story!

Torrential rain almost everyday. And when its not raining its drizzling with precipitation. We seem to go from one storm to another with just a couple of days between each with moderately strong winds - 25 to 35 mph, storms are 65 plus mph getting up to 100 mph. I have such a small apartment I have to go outside to cut pieces from large hides, Even pieces like belts are cut on my temporary table outside. I've not been able to get on with any large-ish projects since the beginning of last November.

Pity I can't send you some of ours. Torrential rain almost everyday. And when its not raining its drizzling with precipitation.

Last year or so I made my #1 son some belts. He wanted some dress belts and some work belts One of the work belts was nearly 2 inches wide made of laminated 3 mm (7-8 ounce?) veg tan, so it worked out at about 6 mm (15 ounce?) Last week he gave it back to me He didn't like it. Too heavy, too thick He wants me to make him another work belt like the one he showed me.* Single layer of 2.8 mm (6-7 ounce?) v/t On here I read of US customers wanting thick belts but thats not for #1 Oh, just to say, he has a car-breakers yard and is lifting heavy weights all the time so he's not in an office very much A difference in cultures (*that belt needs a new buckle)

Because of the helical cut drive gear?

If there really are washers under the hook, removing them will advance the hook timing.

Maybe I read your post wrong, but just in case you were commenting on the belts in the photos, they're not my work. Just some random quick pictures cut/paste.

Don, not Ron.....

I also have the CSM3000 and mine also hammers out five stitches the first time I press the pedal after startup. Doesn't make sense and I would like it to not do it. Other machines I have (with different motors) do not do this. I'm looking for a speed reducing gearbox. Looking only and feel like I should be able to find one that bolts to the input shaft side and then I move the entire table mount assembly left to allow the new output shaft on the gearbox to align with the machine pulley through the table. I'm having trouble finding any official documentation regarding the mount size or dimensions. The Plastic guard holes seem to be 45mm or so. The metal cover mounts are 65mm spacing. Haven't disassembled it as I'm actively using it on the machine. Anyone have any idea what NEMA mount it official is, and what straight female to male gear reducers might fit? Thanks, everyone.

Those are stunning.

These are the first five projects I've attempted. From each iteration I learned new techniques and gotchas. The time to complete went from 10 hours for my first card holder, to under 5 hours for the last attempt. The following photos are of front and back of each card holder. 1st attempt. 2nd attempt: 3rd attempt: 4th attempt: 5th attempt: I'm loving leather crafting. I appreciate any feedback. Luke.

There’s some old efka motor with taper pulley , look for efka motor pulley and also I come across old clutch motor with tapered pulley I think the problem is the fine, that cool the motor this I've never seen smaller than 55

Great idea. Looks great.

Looks great.

Looks like a Consew 206RB-3 from the 1970's. Based on exterior condition, wouldn't be my choice for that price. kgg

Why not Velcro? You don't see it, and it's very strong and has no metal at all.

Here's a triple feed flatbed with "analog servo motor" for $500 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1184034927174464/ Seller provided these additional photos:

Is this the before or the after? What size thread? Looks to me like the latch is opening further than you need for this thread size. Adjust it to open a little less, and you'll get easier clearance on the second side. Also Wiz' comment: "Either the latch opener arm is bent down too far or the hook is sitting too high up." If the hook were down a bit lower it would be easier to clear the latch. Perhaps too many washers under the hook? Also looks to me like the timing is too advanced. If you retard the timing a little, maybe the hook will be out of the way when the thread is trying to go through the second half of the gate, giving the latch a little more time to close.

Classy !!!!