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You know chuck , there is light at this seemingly endless tunnel . Dad had his op and now it's just a long road to recovery and I hope there's light at the end of yours . The whole month of June for me and dad is non stop med appts . For dad it's frequent dressing changes at our local hospital as well as other appts. I've had to bite my tongue a few times ,it does get quite 'testing' at times. Stress is not my friend. I am hoping that the month of July will see things calm down and I can have some sort of * cough* life . The long list of "round to it " jobs is getting even longer . I have finally figured out how to log on using a hand held device , I'm a complete dunce when it comes to technology . May the light shine bright 🌞 HS

I use my Chapman Master set almost daily. The little ratchet is best of several I have. USA made is a plus.

My Vilh Pedersen 282 clicker press is not working much good and I need some pics that show off the Hydraulic system. If anybody has a manual please let me know.

Wow I appreciate you all for the extra info! It makes all the difference when you ask folks who know folks 😂 The saddle has never been on a horse, just sitting in storage. The gal I got it from said she paid 4.5k for it at auction a few years ago. It sounds like a got a good deal! Paid 2.3k.

thank you Northmount

After years of being a hobbyist holster maker, I've decided to get a bit more serious about my leatherwork in my semi-retirement. Here are a few recent builds: Larry Zen Leather Holsters

This machine from what I understand is: i) A drop feed needle feed machine. Not what I would attempt to use for holsters as you really need a compound sewing machine (feed dog, presser foot and needle) for leather work. ii) I would consider this more geared towards fabric then leather. iii) As far as sewing 1/2" I think this is very doubtful, at best maybe 3/8". iv) The thread limit I would suspect would be V92 maybe V138. How thick is the leather you are planning on sewing? What size of thread are you wanting to use? Are you sewing presently by hand or by machine??? The first I have ever heard of the shank size determining the sewing thickness. kgg

I can't tell exactly what machine that is but it doesn't look like any kind of a walking foot machine. A walking foot is where you're going to want to be for holsters. Also, a half inch lift doesn't mean it'll sew a half inch. It needs a little room to work. While we wait for one of the experts to chime in on that machine, here's a thread you should read through: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/25239-the-type-of-sewing-machine-you-need-to-sew-leather/ And then look here and go over machines from the CB3500 down to the Outlaw. These are sort of the holy grail range for heavy leather like holsters and up: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/cowboy.html Plenty of other machines will work and there are always used machines to get the cost down a little. And, who knows, maybe the machine you asked about will be some kind of walking foot. The 1/2" lift doesn't give much room for growth, but maybe. Enjoy the chase for your machine.

I am looking for information on the capabilities of this cowboy sewing machine. It’s for sale locally to me for $850. The seller has this to say about it “This sewing machine is used for leatherwork. It has a 1/2” shank so it can sew through 1/2” thick leather. There are several manuals and spools of thread that come with it as well as a bag of scrap leather materials” is this an accurate representation of the machine? I see pancake holsters, belts and wallets right now. Will this machine work?

here is a picture of my sewing machine information on the back

Thank you for your explanation. Due to space problem I also want to change motor and table. How can you solve opening feed plates without having table (without foot pedal how can I open feed plates) If you can share your project photos I will be glad to see

I shim my Landis 5 in 1 skiving blade to split leather up to 1.5" wide. I have machined a top feed wheel with no knurling to eliminate marking on the leather. Works perfectly.

Thanks for replying. Sorry I should have given more background. The engineer's manual for the Juki 341N (attaching photo of page 12) shows two separate adjustments: 1. Overall lift height 2. Balancing the lift between the two pressers The manual does not explicitly say If you adjust #1 then you will afterward need to adjust #2, otherwise your feed timing will be off and your lift heights will be unbalanced. But I wonder if maybe that is what is required... The first few times that I adjusted the overall height (1) based on the manual I was baffled that lift height was unbalanced afterwards, or that feed timing was off afterwards. Eventually I tried doing (1) then (2) in succession, and that seemed to give a good effect. But it also got me wondering if it's typical to require (1) then (2) in succession, or if there's something else out of adjustment just on my machine that makes it require this two-part adjustment.

If the 51W55 is similar to my 51W56 you need to be sure that the stitch length adjuster pin at the fly wheel is properly engaged in the drive shaft "thread". The adjuster needs to move in and out. If the flywheel isn't set far enough on the drive shaft (towards the needle) it can prevent proper engagement. The pin in the selector may also be broken or missing... Also there are two rods at the bottom of the machine, I believe that the one towards the rear of the machine controls the stitch length actuation.

Sorry, early morning Nicotine level was low. Hadn't had my second cup of coffee and enough vaping. Use to be second cup of coffee and six smokes. kgg 341 engineer manual.pdf

I like Hazet screw drivers, especially their slot screw drivers. Made in Germany, not cheap but the best I've come across. Proper profiles, not cheap grinding.

Copy not attached

Such a great and useful topic. I have an old head knife, i'm guessing it's Osbourne, but the makers mark is gone. I've been trying to remove the brass pin with no luck. Going to try the arbor press route and try to save the handle. Is @Oldtoolsniper still around? I'd love your thoughts on this knife. I'll post some pics this week when I have a moment to take them

Since setting up my machine I've got it working so I can use it easily and so haven't look at the finer details but I have to say something that's on my mind before I forget it. If you take the cover off the normal NPS there are two serrated discs and they have gaps in them which stops the motor. You can get the needle where you want it and then turn the disc to suit. One disc for needle up and one disc for needle down. I used this method for a long time until I got this new one which has a speed reducer. What I've said here doesn't seem to work with speed reducers but if yours doesn't have one it might be worth a look.

You can adjust the height of the presserfoot look into the manual or search on the internet Should be one or two screws on the back of the machine, you find them also if you follow the presserfoot bar into the head of the machine

Here is a copy of the Juki LS-431 engineering manual refer to section 9 page 12. kgg

Did you ever sell these or still have them?

I have those too. Amd a few other brands as well, even some antique solid brass ones. the Al Stohlman tools have a sentimental value to me.

I'd like to buy these if you still have them?

Ben, I have been doing leathercraft for almost 10 years and am finally getting my shop set up. Coatesville isn't too far away (I am in Delco). I will message you with my email and maybe I can come visit and see what you have. Don