Trox

Hi Jason, do you have more of these skin? in advance thanks Tor

You are both welcome. Tor

Hello Darren, I hope you are well too! He asked for opinions thats true. You like that Seiko because its a retro clone of one of your good old beloved Singer`s Tor

Hi, yes they try to make it complicated. Singer mostly have timing marks on the needle bar that eliminates the use of these special tools. No do not worry, it just depend what has moved; the hook gear or the needle bar. Since you do not know, you got to know how to adjust everything properly. It matters because of the feed timing. If it was just the needle and the hook it do not matter what you move on. But you have the feed? ( bottom, top and needle feed) that should be in relation ship to the needle/ hook too. There are special tool for all the Adler's too, I never use them because I do not have them. I find and set the needle height right with a caliper. Those special tools makes it easier to get it right, thats all. About the thread; find Cowboy Bob video on Youtube on how to thread the Cowboy 4500. There you see how to place the thread rack right, all these things apply to every industrial sewing machines. And its very important to avoid problems with the top thread. Good luck Tor

Hi Gordond (not Gordon), I know a harness maker who uses two Union lockstitch machines and one Classic # 1. Other than that there are only shoe related short troat needle and awl machines around here in Norway too. The Singer 97 I have only seen pictures of. Here German Adler machines are as common used by professionals as Singer are by domestic users. Its not many Heavy old cylinder beds to be found, I have a few standing around. Like Adler class 5 and Adler class 105. As well as some class 30`ties , a Pfaff and a Singer postbed. I have a complete Cobblers/shoe maker shop for sale for a friend (with top German machines). In my workshop I use a 441 clone, a Dürkopp Adler 267-373 with Efka motors, a Pfaff 345-H3 and a 29K- 72 for my sewing. I do have other machines as clicker; skiver and splitter machines. Even if I cant find room for anymore, if I stumble over an needle and awl; I bet I would try to bring it back home. By the way, people tell me that NZ look very much like Norway (Norwegians that is). That might be because its as close to the south pole as we are to the North? I do not know, I bet you have a better climate than us ( warmer, milder that is). However, this winter have been the warmest of my fifty four yet. Normally we have snow and cold to mid April. Now we have green grass and been without snow for more than a month already. Its very strange, I do not miss the snow. Nevertheless, I like the winter to be cold, white and dry rather than wet and muddy. Nice talking to you. Thanks Tor

Hello JDTagish, Leather decoration stamps has been around for quite some time. We have to go bit further back in history than the leather factory and Mr. Al Stolhman. Joke aside, according to pictures of old tool and old leather work, these stamps looked just like yours. Here is some history of leather decoration and book binding http://www.gutenberg.org/files/40286/40286-h/40286-h.htm These tools and techniques was used by every kind of leather craft men not only book binders. And as far back as the primitive times. People tend to take better care of books than shoes, saddles and bags. That might be the reason we mainly see this old art on book covers. Some great looking leather artwork in this book. Tor

Hello Gordon, he probably very busy, it has happened to me too. However, he always answer in the end. No, need for it anyway, you have your answer already. Heavy, nice piece of machinery, we do not see much of these here in Scandinavia. Good luck with it. Tor

Hello, Here is an other link to that cloud drive map. The map containing two pdf files, a part list and the user/adjustment manual. http://shares.1hund.com/s#b8484815-714d-4906-9b0a-f168589f325b/torrougseth.clouddrive.1hund.com/441/ The link is valid for one month from today. Tor

Hello Steve, all is well here Thank you, I hope you are too! Tor

Thanks Greg, I look forward to hear what price level they will be at. I am afraid it will be out of reach for my small shop, thought. Tor

Hi, first change your needle for a new one (it takes care of 90% of all stitch errors). Then make sure to use left twisted thread and place the first thread guide in center over the spool (at the thread rack). Then make sure you use three holes in the thread guide on top of the machine (two or more) . This to take the twink out of the thread before it passes in to your tension disk. I do this when I have trouble with twisted top thread. If you have problem with the bobbin thread, your bobbin probably is unevenly winded. Get the right tension on the bobbin winder, not to hard, and wind the thread evenly on to the bobbin . What subclass is your machine and what needle size do you use for adjusting it. This might also happen when you use to heavy thread. Control you hook tip for burr, nicks and cuts. You can polish/repair such with a fine ceramic stone. If nothing of this helps, check all adjustments one more time. And do them in the order of the manual. Good luck Tor

Hi, you missed a spot..LOL

Why do you not ask Dan Naegle in Campbell Randall, his member name is just CampbellRandall http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showuser=6741

The Pfaff 1245 is the best performer and quality of the lot, spare part are expensive but you rarely need them. Quality on older pfaff are superior to most other sewing machines. Even by todays standard the Pfaff 1245 is one of the greatest performer in its class (check subclass number/type on it for stitch lenght). The ones that use them do not trade them before they have too. Most common wear parts are available aftermarket, like hooks, bobbin cases feet's and plates. Its a very good machine second to non. Then your choice must be based on the wear of the individual machine. The Pfaff 145 is the grand father of the 1245 and have insufficient stitch length for the sunbrella jobs. It need to be sewn with long stitches to minimize shrinkage. The particular Juki class is unknown to me, quality on Japanese are very good. But it is a copy of a old European/ perhaps US made machine. The Seiko is too, a Singer 211 clone. Old technology compared to the 1245. Tor

Yes, sometimes my life feel that way too. It a good picture, it deserves a bigger column space. Tor

Update: The new Durkopp Adler 967 H flatbed is out for sale in the shops now and the 969 H cylinder bed will follow soon. I have no price yet, but check with your closest DA dealer. The head of DA spare part, Thomas Brinkhoff warrants me that this machine is entirely made in Europe. I quote: "Here are also some comparisons between Durkopp Adler class 204 and the new 967: Workspace: +65% Stitch length: +25% Foot lift: +50% Material thickness that can be sewn: +30% Foot stroke: +20% Bobbin capacity: +70% Sewing speed: +56% Further, there are all the new features like automatic lubrication, integrated stitch length adjustment, quick stroke adjustment, thread trimmer with 40mm remaining ends, 2nd pneumatic thread tension, jog-dial hand wheel with power stitch function (Move the machine with your fingertip!), integrated, motor driven bobbin winder, multifunctional operation panel, integrated keypad, integrated LED sewing light and integrated Dürkopp Adler sewing drive and control. It is a new concept with outstanding features for customers with very difficult and thick materials with highest quality and productivity requirements." http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/products/htype/index.html He hopes nobody will start to compare these new machines with copies of old Adler and Juki machines, he clearly have a point there. I also tells me the "postbed version will follow in the next months". (I am not sure if it should be the cylinder bed version or not, thats what we all are waiting for anyway). I be back with more info if and when I have it. Thanks Tor

Thats good, sometimes the hook shaft on these machine have damages after the gears setting screws. From being adjusted allot. Then a clamp will be of good help to lock the needle bar when you move the gear. I had to remove the hole hook shaft on my Pfaff 345 to loosen the gear, it would not turn on the shaft. It can happen to all old machines. When you do these adjustments, then do them all. Start with the first one and adjust the feed, stitch length everything at once. They all are connected to each other. For best result control them all. Andrew, is that an goat in your picture, do you live on a farm? Tor

You can use a frequency drive on a plain clutch AC motor. They are for AC motor only, you cannot use them for servo motors. However, on position AC motor system its possible but not easy, because they have control boxes that has to be operated on the required power. I have used such drive on a 3 phase Efka variostop motor (old position system motor), then I wired the control box separately. (I have 220 V single in my workshop) The motor was 380 V, 3 phase and the control box 220 v single, power in is 380 V three phase (Europe). I converted the motor in to a 220 V single with the drive and disconnected the control box power from the motor and took it direct from the wall outlet instead. It worked well. However, the easiest thing is to use an transformer. By the way, I have one Pfaff post bed like the one in the picture for sale (with an Efka variostop), if somebody looking for one. I echo what Greg said, make sure those Pfaff`s are complete in working order. Otherwise it will be expensive to get parts (example: you might have to pay 1000 $ for a needle plate alone). Tor

Hello, First you must pre adjust the needle bar height (needle height) ,see the manual: to be 15 mm. over the needle plate at BDC. Its all wrong now when you changed it. Perhaps you already have adjusted its height, just make sure you did. "Page 12 says to put a 1.8mm thick feeler gauge with its cutout close under the lower needle bar bearing. What does that mean?" This is related to the needle raise, the needle bar has to raise with 1,8 mm after BDC ( bottom dead center). The hook has to be set to the needle when the needlebar is in this position. They do this with some special tools described in page # 5 in the manual. A gauge 1,8 mm thick and a clamp called needle bar clamp, that lock the needle bar in the right height (1,8mm after BDC and stitch length set to 3, with the desired needle size that should be your medium size needle). In absence of that I always use a caliper to measure its proper height and a tubing clamp to lock it if necessary (first the needle bar height at 15 mm. bdc and then add the 1,8 mm to find the correct raise after bdc; where the hook has to be timed, 16,8 mm. in your caliper). When the needle bar (with the right size adjusted needle in) is set to the right height I loosen the screw in the hook shaft and turn the hook to set it to the needle. If your machine is pretty new and the hook gear move freely on the hook shaft (after opening its screws), you can probably manage to adjust it with out the aid of an needle bar clamp. However, if its an old machine and you must use some force to move the hook gear you can use a tube clamp etc. instead. Lock the needle bar from advancing (in its right height 16,8 mm over the needle plate, thats 1,8 mm after BDC) with this around the needle bar. Use some thin leather inside the tube clamp not to damage the needle bar. Then turn the hook gear and adjust the needle hook timing as described in the manual. Do not forget to set the right distance between the hook and the needle sharf too (0,05 to 0,1 mm= as close as possible with out hitting the hook). When your machine is splitting the tread etc, its related to improper adjustment. It will be fine when you adjust it like described above. Good luck Tor

Hi, The Dc 1500 is a smaller motor, but its used on the same control box. That motor is not that strong, only 3 Nm and 400 W Pnom. They are used on smaller machines and high speed machines for fabrics. I would have called Efka and talked to Manferd +496202202713 or Skype: manfredkif232. He will tell you what you need for your machine, he is very helpful. I see they have made some new smaller in size motors too, but even stronger. Check with Greg if he offers electrical solenoids to a good price first, you need to build together the air system from several parts (Reduction valve, switching valve, air cylinder, water filter, tubing, brackets.etc) An electric solenoid lifter is more easy to install, big ones are very expensive. But for your machine you do not need a very big one. So ask Greg about that solution first. Sieck sells these motors pretty cheap, but he gives no customer support about them. Then you have to call Efka for questions if you buy there. I think the HVP- 90 is a stronger motor then the DC 1500, then again I have no experience or data's on them right now. Tor

Hello Yanni, I would definitely recommend the Efka DC 1550 with the Duerkopp Adler 321 control for your machine . It comes complete and have all pre installed parameters for your machine, its just plug and play. Its a very strong motor, I only use half its power on my Juki 441 clone. Every extras can be attached to it, you can use an air pneumatic foot lift or an electric solenoid. Air is the cheapest option if you have an compressor in your shop. I am very satisfied with Efka and their customer support. Any trouble installing and they will talk you true it using Skype video call. They will help you until your machines sews as you want it to do. Regardless of where you buy your motor, as long as its an Efka. They have people doing this all the time, very nice people. Do not buy an old variostop from the 1980, buy a new motor. That is an computer you can set up from your PC or with an USB memory stick, if you want to. However, this motor already have the setup for the DA 269 and are ready to sew (it is the recommended motor for your machine by DA). The new DC motor can be turned all the way up to 1800 Watt and has 7 Nm of torque. It is very small and are designed to be powerful enough for all todays lock stitch machines with out help of an gear (speed reducer). You can control the amount of power of course, like all other parameters. And of course on the degree where you want your needle to stop and start. (thats BASIC). Its have all kinds of sewing patterns programed, like back tacking, starts..... etc. Its a professional labor saving tool. I do not want to ruin any sale for you Olack, I am just answering Yannies post. A new Efka is something completely else than the first variostop position clutch motors from the 1980`ties. However, you can still get all the parts for the old Variostops. Good luck Tor

Hello Olack, the motor is complete with control box and easy to sew with, no problem. You just attach a air compressor to the regulator in pic # 8 and you are good to go. You do not need air to sew, only for the presser foot lift. Or take off the air cylinder, attach a ordinary chain and pedal if you do not like it. The Pfaff needle plate on the other hand is expensive, Pfaff wanted 1000 $ for a binding needle plate for my Pfaff 345-H3 (similar Cyl. bed machine with vertical hook). Perhaps you will find some part on the aftermarket. Check the bottom feed on it, on some machines the binding feed do not move like a ordinary feed dog, only back and forth. And that makes it a double feed (top and needle feed) rather than a triple feed machine. Thats a draw back if you do not need it, it does not matter that much on leather and on forward stitching. But on other material and in reverse it might not feed that good. Its a very strong machine, but a typical factory setup. Check it well for wear, it might have seen some hard use and part is $$$$ (some are hand made in Germany, that costs today. Good luck Tor

Hello, the Constabulary is right. They changed the hook size in this machine to the new 204/205 hook. That means that you can probably use a Juki spring if you have too (its the same hook there too). They aren't expensive with DA either, if you cant find it let me know and I can take a look in my Adler part drawer. Tor

Hello Wiz, I did not see your answer before I typed (much). You are right this machine has a binding feed, I see it on the pic now. Kwokhing.com had cheap parts for these machines (feet's and feed dog) But now I do not know if they still in business, If anybody knows please let me know. I need stuff from them too. Thanks Tor

Hi, The Pfaff 335 is a nice machine for small operations. The Efka variostops are from the 1980`ties (first of their kind). It is an electronic clutch (AC) motor, with electronic brake and clutch. It has needle position (adjusted in the position head on the hand wheel) It has six or twelve pre adjusted speeds on the pedal (depended of model number/year). Than means that if you use an speed reducer on it you will not alter the speed, only make it stronger; the electronics compensate for the speed loss and turns up the rpm on the motor (caused by the speed sensor and counted rotations by the pos. head) Several operations can be controlled be air, I see it has a presser foot lift, normally activated by heeling the pedal hard (or by a separate switch) Light heeling of the sewing pedal lift the needle in up position, foot off the pedal and needle stops down (it can be altered by the switch on the control box to the opposite). I have sewn allot with these motors, and they are OK. Remember its a old motor, it do not add that much to the value of the machine. But complete with the air (if it all works well) it is more worth than with a clutch or an other cheap motor. I have had the biggest Adler machines with this same motor, it is more than strong enough for this little machine. It can be a bit fast in the start up, but let of your foot and you can do stitch by stitch with it. http://www.efka.net/pdf/index_en.php Many more extras can be attached, like thread trimmer, back tacking etc. These motor are labor saving in production, these machines are very much used in factories for fabrics and small leather production. The sub class H3 is the next heaviest sub class (from H1 to H4). There are difference in presser foot lift, needle height/type, thread thickness, hand wheel and pulley etc. on the subclasses. The 6/01 is equipment attached to it (you have to write to Pfaff industrial and ask for the manual) The letters are codes, B normally simply stands for : type "B", the "N" stands for maximum stitch length 6 mm and the "S" stands for "stoff" that means fabric in English (last time I checked). These codes are used on other Pfaff`s as well. The part about the "S" for fabric`s simply means it has a feed dog and feet's for use on fabric. You need to change or alter them to smooth leather transporters (feet and feed dog). it also applies to the needle system/ type or point of adjusted needle (normal needle the hook needle timing are adjusted with) In a factory setting they normally use the same type of needle all the time and the machine preforms optimally with it (but you can use three sizes up and down or more) There are two types of bottom feed on these machines, normal and binding feed (feed dog goes back and forth only to propel a synchronized binder) The code 6/01 might apply to this, I do not know. If the feed dog make ugly markings on your leather you can smooth it (on the grinding wheel and polish it) or lower it to the level of the needle plate. Remember that original Pfaff part cost allot of dollars, check the aftermarket for parts. I hope that helped you a bit. Good luck Tor