Trox

Hi, The Pfaff 335 is a nice machine for small operations. The Efka variostops are from the 1980`ties (first of their kind). It is an electronic clutch (AC) motor, with electronic brake and clutch. It has needle position (adjusted in the position head on the hand wheel) It has six or twelve pre adjusted speeds on the pedal (depended of model number/year). Than means that if you use an speed reducer on it you will not alter the speed, only make it stronger; the electronics compensate for the speed loss and turns up the rpm on the motor (caused by the speed sensor and counted rotations by the pos. head) Several operations can be controlled be air, I see it has a presser foot lift, normally activated by heeling the pedal hard (or by a separate switch) Light heeling of the sewing pedal lift the needle in up position, foot off the pedal and needle stops down (it can be altered by the switch on the control box to the opposite). I have sewn allot with these motors, and they are OK. Remember its a old motor, it do not add that much to the value of the machine. But complete with the air (if it all works well) it is more worth than with a clutch or an other cheap motor. I have had the biggest Adler machines with this same motor, it is more than strong enough for this little machine. It can be a bit fast in the start up, but let of your foot and you can do stitch by stitch with it. http://www.efka.net/pdf/index_en.php Many more extras can be attached, like thread trimmer, back tacking etc. These motor are labor saving in production, these machines are very much used in factories for fabrics and small leather production. The sub class H3 is the next heaviest sub class (from H1 to H4). There are difference in presser foot lift, needle height/type, thread thickness, hand wheel and pulley etc. on the subclasses. The 6/01 is equipment attached to it (you have to write to Pfaff industrial and ask for the manual) The letters are codes, B normally simply stands for : type "B", the "N" stands for maximum stitch length 6 mm and the "S" stands for "stoff" that means fabric in English (last time I checked). These codes are used on other Pfaff`s as well. The part about the "S" for fabric`s simply means it has a feed dog and feet's for use on fabric. You need to change or alter them to smooth leather transporters (feet and feed dog). it also applies to the needle system/ type or point of adjusted needle (normal needle the hook needle timing are adjusted with) In a factory setting they normally use the same type of needle all the time and the machine preforms optimally with it (but you can use three sizes up and down or more) There are two types of bottom feed on these machines, normal and binding feed (feed dog goes back and forth only to propel a synchronized binder) The code 6/01 might apply to this, I do not know. If the feed dog make ugly markings on your leather you can smooth it (on the grinding wheel and polish it) or lower it to the level of the needle plate. Remember that original Pfaff part cost allot of dollars, check the aftermarket for parts. I hope that helped you a bit. Good luck Tor

Send an email to Pfaff industrial and they will send you an pdf manual. The H4 is the heaviest subclass of the 545 and the H3 is the next best. Google is you friend. I do not remember the url. Good luck Tor

I use diesel. U can use a truck hand wheel knob and clamp it around the edge of the machine hand Tor

Hello Friends, I have this old binder for the class 5, (in the picture from the manual). I also have some newer big leather binder I purchased from Kwokhing.com. I can use them on my 441 if I want too. However, I need to modify a foot that will fit them, that's all. So far I had no need of using my 441 for this purpose because I have a Pfaff 345 (medium triple feed cyl. bed binder feed) I use for this purpose. The Kwokhing binders are for heavy material/leather and for cylinder bed machines, I think they was cheep (about 9 to 15 $ each). The problem is that Kwokhing do not answer my emails anymore. Perhaps they are bankrupt/closed down. (I had a very good customer relationship with them, do anybody have any updates on this please let me know). I really missing having Kwokhing to buy stuff like this from. Most other attachments makers only do custom jobs and their customers are factories that look to start a new fabrication. To have a binder made like that can be very expensive, many hundred times the Kwokhing prices of course. If you have a skiving machine you can make leather binding tape that fit your binder on it (by attaching a splitter roller foot or different method). Kwokhing sold different size binders for cylinder beds (also flat bed models), the cyl. bed ones can be used on flat beds too. You attach them with two screws on the base plate, very easy. I will post some pictures later if anybody want to see how they look like. (Most have an idea or know them from before). The right hand binder foot will be best to make if only one, the binder attached on the right side of the foot. However, they better make a left foot set too, sooner or later it will be missed. Tor

Great stuff Walter, that rounder look very good. Tor

Hello Constabulary, I have those disks on my 267-373 machine and I do not run the thread in a right path true them. If you do then the thread will fall out of the disks. I loop the thread one turn/time around the disk and then it works fine. Tor

Nice color, but remember the best color is white. Or else you need allot of light.

Hello Ralph, I do not know anything more about the new machine yet. They promised to inform me and that have not happen yet. Thanks Tor

Its no use to change the foot, it performed best with the roller foot. The -362 foot is not active (it does not move up and down, or back and forth; its there to keep the material down by the foot pressure spring). The -373 has an alternating presser and a feeding foot (in addition to the bottom and needle feed this machine has) That makes that machine more valuable that this of course. Nevertheless, this machine will do fine on flat material, but its no good on climbing.

The 69-373 is a triple feed, what Americans call a walking foot. (every machine with a feeding foot is also called the same). This -362 has only a double feed; a combined bottom and needle feed. (And can not be converted in to a triple feed, without spending more money on it than the cost of a new machine) The foot its only there to press the material down, it does not move. The best thing you can do is to leave the roller foot on. It is used on the lightest task of leather work, like wallets, shoes upper and small bags. 4,5 mm stitch length and 7 mm foot lift. A narrow arm machine with an horizontal rotating small hook. Used on light threads and tasks, I believe TKT 40 (Tex 69) will be max possible. However, its a nice machine class preferred by the ladies bag makers of Europe. Then mostly subclasses -373 and -73. http://sew24.blogspo.../downloads.html Tor

Suzell, Thats Chinese sewing machine industry in a nut shell, same product with 1001 different names. You must buy from the dealer you trust, or based on this forums knowledge and feed back. A high end Japan or German system motor will cost you from 600 to 1000 $. You cannot expect a 100 to 150$ motor to last forever. I use mostly German Efka motors. However, I have one Cobra digital 600 W servo motor and it works fine. It very similar to any other motor that looks like it. They all (almost) have had some issues with the speed control, but its been corrected on the Cobra now (and perhaps many others). Do a forum search on it and you will see what I mean. I do not know much about older Chinese analog motors (I never bought any). I heard the speed control are good on them, but some of them might be a bit to weak (400 Watt). The later digital motors are stronger, but do not have a good speed control. They uses an light switch. (A proper digital speed control is expensive) The digital 600 watt is more than strong enough for an upholstery class triple feed. You can even find them stronger than that. Some of them might have a faulty speed control, some are fixed. If Gregg offered me a good motor, then personally I would trust its good. Good luck Tor

Hello Bkyjones Art, they missed that factory making the Kochs Adler, (but hit a Dürkopp factory among others, these made war material too. Not only sewing machines, but motor bikes, car and only God knows what) because this particular class was made until 1975. The class 20 was the heaviest class they made, some of the subclasses has as much as 40 mm foot lift. Others only 16 mm. Then it was replaced by the class 120. The class 20 changed the color to Adler green sometimes along that time period. What is the subclass number of your class 20-?, its on the little plate on the head. In the world of Industrial sewing machines where everybody copies each other, you can find parts from other brand machines that will fit yours too. I have an opinion about who copied who, but I will keep it to myself (this time). The Singer class 7 shuttle and shuttle race will fit, maybe other parts as well. See this topic for more information http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=49777#entry322368 And here you will find some of the documentation you need, http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html part list and manual. You will need a part list to find the part you need, a manual that comes as an bonus. If there are some part you cant find anywhere you can have it custom made. Talk to Thomas Brinkhoff (head of spare parts Dürkopp Adler) He runs this blog, he might be able to help you too. If there is a part you cannot find, let me know. Perhaps I know a address for you, or an solution. Good luck Tor

Hello Bruce, thats great news. I hope you enjoy it, because you have deserved it. The reason you received it that late was; simply that I forgot to send it. Sorry about that. However, I hope that`s forgotten now too. Thank you for your help, too. Tor By the way Bruce, Elmer's glue is that made of animal bones too? I have not seen that product here where I live. Thanks Tor

Thanks Walter, I never tried that bone glue. Seems to be a bit work. Thanks for explaining it. Tor

Thanks Simon, I am looking for one that can be used with a heated soldering iron with a crease tip on (the Filet electric). I will check it out. Thanks Tor Thanks I know this technique. I use it too. (not glass anymore)

Yes I see, that was a smart solution with the rubber. I have often used cloth over the wood, but its not easy. Sometimes I use a felt wheel like on the "fantastic leather burnishing machine" http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28079 I use Gum tragant, fibings saddle soap, bees wax, and paraffin wax mix. Then Fibings edge dyes. Depended of how much work I put in the edges. I am now looking for some good edge paint for using with the hot electric Filet tool. Campbell Randall (Bosworth) has something I can use on Chrome tan leather edges, I am going to order some from him to try it out. I see you mention several (to me) new products for edges. Like "Gum Arabic" never heard about this one. Hot glue, is that same as " shellac lacquer". The Danish ROK edge paint contains shellac, not that it works any good. Thats why I presumed it was used in other products as well. Well "beautiful edges" is a hole blog on its one. Its written page up and down with different techniques of burnishing/polishing edges in this forum. However, its mostly written by American saddler's, its not much about the European sattlers work with edges. I am sure this forum would like to see your techniques of enchanging leather edges. See what kind of product and tools you favor to use, maybe get some good tip of European product for edges. In Norway we have mostly American product in the shops. In advance thanks Tor

Thanks for the link, the shaft is to narrow on my machine, I got to use a outside element. Thanks Tor

Thank you Walter, I saw the tensioner, it looks very nice. Good job. I am in no hurry with this machine. I will wait until you write me about the heating elements. Thank you very much. Strange burnishing roller on that leather edge burnishing/polishing machine,I use a wood roller on mine. The rubber material looks like some kind of sex toy, pardon my language. I suppose it made to get maximum friction, does it work good? Do you use it with wax or something else. Thanks Tor

Hello Walter, very nice creasing machines. I see one of them has the heating element outside (on the top) of the shaft. Those this work as well as the others. I am planning to make an creaser, embossing machine out of that pinking machine I bought the other day. It has double tension , the lever on the back moves the top shaft up and down. Then you can also adjust the bottom brass roller up and down. There are two ball bearings inside the bottom brass roller. The bottom roller system can be changed for an other solution. For the top shaft I can buy embossing wheels or creasing wheels. (I can also have them made of course). It has allot of tension power, because the pinking wheels must cut true heavy leather. I think it will become an excellent little strap embossing and creasing machine. With some work of course. I am interesting in your opinion, and if an heating element like the one in your picture can be used on this machine too. Where did you buy this heating elements. (on the machine you made, I know you did not made them all) In advance thank you. Tor

Hej Sverige, You need to find a subclass H4 or at least a H3. The H2 will not take any heavy threads. There are lots of these for sale in Norway at reasonable prices. I assumed you where going to use it on leather. The 145-H2 has triple feed but very light duty rating. The later 545 is exactly the same machine too. They are frequently up for sale at Finn.no. Look for a H4, thats the heaviest subclass. The "L" is simply stands for leather, then the machine has smooth feet`s and feed dog (under transportør på Norsk). You will find them cheaper in Norway than in Sweden, there are no marked for them here. Good luck Tor

Thanks Itch, I recieved them both, it looks like a very good manual. Tor

Hello Itch, thank you for the updates on the Fortuna machine. Your machine does an impressive job, I cant wait to try out my machine. I got to warn you about posting your email address in the open forum. Hacker harvests email addresses and soon you will be bombed with spam and viruses. If you still want to display your email use this format " Larryxd att gmail dot com " . Because the robots/agents they use do not catch this format. Delete or modify your email by editing the post, or talk to Johanna. The forum moderator can also help you. Email sent. thanks Tor

Looking good Itch, I cant wait to try out my machine. I hope to get it tomorrow, if not very soon. What is the approx weight of that baby, its allot smaller that todays big machines in size. Thats one thing I like about it, my shop is pretty stuffed as it is. I got to move around stuff to get it in. I also have a friend who have huge experience with these, he had allot of them before. Now he have a modern state of the art machine. His nick is Leather Guru. Thanks for showing Itch and have a nice weekend. Tor

Hello, I have six big Adler and Dürkopp Adler machines. And I do have a 441 clone too. I do not recognize the "incredible expensive" spare part price that you describe and I buy my parts from Dürkopp Adler, and live in one of the worlds most expensive countries too (Norway). When it comes to clone and aftermarket parts for Juki and Adler's: its only hooks, plates and foot sets that are available. All clone machines ( there are a few exceptions) uses the original (copied) machines spare part program anyway. The reason most buy the 441 clone instead of the Adler is the price, the Adler clone is more expensive and have less foot lift (usually only 20 mm). An other reason is the available attachment`s, and it`s price. You will normally get a longer arm on the 441 too. You can buy 205-370 clones with longer arms too, then you have to pay even more. Both machines uses the same needle and hook and have many similarities. I like the Adler's foot lift lever on top of its head, it has a very nice stitch too. When I consider all these facts, then the 441 clone is the winner of the clones. You get more machine for less money. I am talking about clone machines now, when we talk about the original machines its a different story. Thanks Tor