Trox

You can use a frequency drive on a plain clutch AC motor. They are for AC motor only, you cannot use them for servo motors. However, on position AC motor system its possible but not easy, because they have control boxes that has to be operated on the required power. I have used such drive on a 3 phase Efka variostop motor (old position system motor), then I wired the control box separately. (I have 220 V single in my workshop) The motor was 380 V, 3 phase and the control box 220 v single, power in is 380 V three phase (Europe). I converted the motor in to a 220 V single with the drive and disconnected the control box power from the motor and took it direct from the wall outlet instead. It worked well. However, the easiest thing is to use an transformer. By the way, I have one Pfaff post bed like the one in the picture for sale (with an Efka variostop), if somebody looking for one. I echo what Greg said, make sure those Pfaff`s are complete in working order. Otherwise it will be expensive to get parts (example: you might have to pay 1000 $ for a needle plate alone). Tor

Hello, First you must pre adjust the needle bar height (needle height) ,see the manual: to be 15 mm. over the needle plate at BDC. Its all wrong now when you changed it. Perhaps you already have adjusted its height, just make sure you did. "Page 12 says to put a 1.8mm thick feeler gauge with its cutout close under the lower needle bar bearing. What does that mean?" This is related to the needle raise, the needle bar has to raise with 1,8 mm after BDC ( bottom dead center). The hook has to be set to the needle when the needlebar is in this position. They do this with some special tools described in page # 5 in the manual. A gauge 1,8 mm thick and a clamp called needle bar clamp, that lock the needle bar in the right height (1,8mm after BDC and stitch length set to 3, with the desired needle size that should be your medium size needle). In absence of that I always use a caliper to measure its proper height and a tubing clamp to lock it if necessary (first the needle bar height at 15 mm. bdc and then add the 1,8 mm to find the correct raise after bdc; where the hook has to be timed, 16,8 mm. in your caliper). When the needle bar (with the right size adjusted needle in) is set to the right height I loosen the screw in the hook shaft and turn the hook to set it to the needle. If your machine is pretty new and the hook gear move freely on the hook shaft (after opening its screws), you can probably manage to adjust it with out the aid of an needle bar clamp. However, if its an old machine and you must use some force to move the hook gear you can use a tube clamp etc. instead. Lock the needle bar from advancing (in its right height 16,8 mm over the needle plate, thats 1,8 mm after BDC) with this around the needle bar. Use some thin leather inside the tube clamp not to damage the needle bar. Then turn the hook gear and adjust the needle hook timing as described in the manual. Do not forget to set the right distance between the hook and the needle sharf too (0,05 to 0,1 mm= as close as possible with out hitting the hook). When your machine is splitting the tread etc, its related to improper adjustment. It will be fine when you adjust it like described above. Good luck Tor

Hi, The Dc 1500 is a smaller motor, but its used on the same control box. That motor is not that strong, only 3 Nm and 400 W Pnom. They are used on smaller machines and high speed machines for fabrics. I would have called Efka and talked to Manferd +496202202713 or Skype: manfredkif232. He will tell you what you need for your machine, he is very helpful. I see they have made some new smaller in size motors too, but even stronger. Check with Greg if he offers electrical solenoids to a good price first, you need to build together the air system from several parts (Reduction valve, switching valve, air cylinder, water filter, tubing, brackets.etc) An electric solenoid lifter is more easy to install, big ones are very expensive. But for your machine you do not need a very big one. So ask Greg about that solution first. Sieck sells these motors pretty cheap, but he gives no customer support about them. Then you have to call Efka for questions if you buy there. I think the HVP- 90 is a stronger motor then the DC 1500, then again I have no experience or data's on them right now. Tor

Hello Yanni, I would definitely recommend the Efka DC 1550 with the Duerkopp Adler 321 control for your machine . It comes complete and have all pre installed parameters for your machine, its just plug and play. Its a very strong motor, I only use half its power on my Juki 441 clone. Every extras can be attached to it, you can use an air pneumatic foot lift or an electric solenoid. Air is the cheapest option if you have an compressor in your shop. I am very satisfied with Efka and their customer support. Any trouble installing and they will talk you true it using Skype video call. They will help you until your machines sews as you want it to do. Regardless of where you buy your motor, as long as its an Efka. They have people doing this all the time, very nice people. Do not buy an old variostop from the 1980, buy a new motor. That is an computer you can set up from your PC or with an USB memory stick, if you want to. However, this motor already have the setup for the DA 269 and are ready to sew (it is the recommended motor for your machine by DA). The new DC motor can be turned all the way up to 1800 Watt and has 7 Nm of torque. It is very small and are designed to be powerful enough for all todays lock stitch machines with out help of an gear (speed reducer). You can control the amount of power of course, like all other parameters. And of course on the degree where you want your needle to stop and start. (thats BASIC). Its have all kinds of sewing patterns programed, like back tacking, starts..... etc. Its a professional labor saving tool. I do not want to ruin any sale for you Olack, I am just answering Yannies post. A new Efka is something completely else than the first variostop position clutch motors from the 1980`ties. However, you can still get all the parts for the old Variostops. Good luck Tor

Hello Olack, the motor is complete with control box and easy to sew with, no problem. You just attach a air compressor to the regulator in pic # 8 and you are good to go. You do not need air to sew, only for the presser foot lift. Or take off the air cylinder, attach a ordinary chain and pedal if you do not like it. The Pfaff needle plate on the other hand is expensive, Pfaff wanted 1000 $ for a binding needle plate for my Pfaff 345-H3 (similar Cyl. bed machine with vertical hook). Perhaps you will find some part on the aftermarket. Check the bottom feed on it, on some machines the binding feed do not move like a ordinary feed dog, only back and forth. And that makes it a double feed (top and needle feed) rather than a triple feed machine. Thats a draw back if you do not need it, it does not matter that much on leather and on forward stitching. But on other material and in reverse it might not feed that good. Its a very strong machine, but a typical factory setup. Check it well for wear, it might have seen some hard use and part is $$$$ (some are hand made in Germany, that costs today. Good luck Tor

Hello, the Constabulary is right. They changed the hook size in this machine to the new 204/205 hook. That means that you can probably use a Juki spring if you have too (its the same hook there too). They aren't expensive with DA either, if you cant find it let me know and I can take a look in my Adler part drawer. Tor

Hello Wiz, I did not see your answer before I typed (much). You are right this machine has a binding feed, I see it on the pic now. Kwokhing.com had cheap parts for these machines (feet's and feed dog) But now I do not know if they still in business, If anybody knows please let me know. I need stuff from them too. Thanks Tor

Hi, The Pfaff 335 is a nice machine for small operations. The Efka variostops are from the 1980`ties (first of their kind). It is an electronic clutch (AC) motor, with electronic brake and clutch. It has needle position (adjusted in the position head on the hand wheel) It has six or twelve pre adjusted speeds on the pedal (depended of model number/year). Than means that if you use an speed reducer on it you will not alter the speed, only make it stronger; the electronics compensate for the speed loss and turns up the rpm on the motor (caused by the speed sensor and counted rotations by the pos. head) Several operations can be controlled be air, I see it has a presser foot lift, normally activated by heeling the pedal hard (or by a separate switch) Light heeling of the sewing pedal lift the needle in up position, foot off the pedal and needle stops down (it can be altered by the switch on the control box to the opposite). I have sewn allot with these motors, and they are OK. Remember its a old motor, it do not add that much to the value of the machine. But complete with the air (if it all works well) it is more worth than with a clutch or an other cheap motor. I have had the biggest Adler machines with this same motor, it is more than strong enough for this little machine. It can be a bit fast in the start up, but let of your foot and you can do stitch by stitch with it. http://www.efka.net/pdf/index_en.php Many more extras can be attached, like thread trimmer, back tacking etc. These motor are labor saving in production, these machines are very much used in factories for fabrics and small leather production. The sub class H3 is the next heaviest sub class (from H1 to H4). There are difference in presser foot lift, needle height/type, thread thickness, hand wheel and pulley etc. on the subclasses. The 6/01 is equipment attached to it (you have to write to Pfaff industrial and ask for the manual) The letters are codes, B normally simply stands for : type "B", the "N" stands for maximum stitch length 6 mm and the "S" stands for "stoff" that means fabric in English (last time I checked). These codes are used on other Pfaff`s as well. The part about the "S" for fabric`s simply means it has a feed dog and feet's for use on fabric. You need to change or alter them to smooth leather transporters (feet and feed dog). it also applies to the needle system/ type or point of adjusted needle (normal needle the hook needle timing are adjusted with) In a factory setting they normally use the same type of needle all the time and the machine preforms optimally with it (but you can use three sizes up and down or more) There are two types of bottom feed on these machines, normal and binding feed (feed dog goes back and forth only to propel a synchronized binder) The code 6/01 might apply to this, I do not know. If the feed dog make ugly markings on your leather you can smooth it (on the grinding wheel and polish it) or lower it to the level of the needle plate. Remember that original Pfaff part cost allot of dollars, check the aftermarket for parts. I hope that helped you a bit. Good luck Tor

Send an email to Pfaff industrial and they will send you an pdf manual. The H4 is the heaviest subclass of the 545 and the H3 is the next best. Google is you friend. I do not remember the url. Good luck Tor

I use diesel. U can use a truck hand wheel knob and clamp it around the edge of the machine hand Tor

Hello Friends, I have this old binder for the class 5, (in the picture from the manual). I also have some newer big leather binder I purchased from Kwokhing.com. I can use them on my 441 if I want too. However, I need to modify a foot that will fit them, that's all. So far I had no need of using my 441 for this purpose because I have a Pfaff 345 (medium triple feed cyl. bed binder feed) I use for this purpose. The Kwokhing binders are for heavy material/leather and for cylinder bed machines, I think they was cheep (about 9 to 15 $ each). The problem is that Kwokhing do not answer my emails anymore. Perhaps they are bankrupt/closed down. (I had a very good customer relationship with them, do anybody have any updates on this please let me know). I really missing having Kwokhing to buy stuff like this from. Most other attachments makers only do custom jobs and their customers are factories that look to start a new fabrication. To have a binder made like that can be very expensive, many hundred times the Kwokhing prices of course. If you have a skiving machine you can make leather binding tape that fit your binder on it (by attaching a splitter roller foot or different method). Kwokhing sold different size binders for cylinder beds (also flat bed models), the cyl. bed ones can be used on flat beds too. You attach them with two screws on the base plate, very easy. I will post some pictures later if anybody want to see how they look like. (Most have an idea or know them from before). The right hand binder foot will be best to make if only one, the binder attached on the right side of the foot. However, they better make a left foot set too, sooner or later it will be missed. Tor

Great stuff Walter, that rounder look very good. Tor

Hello Constabulary, I have those disks on my 267-373 machine and I do not run the thread in a right path true them. If you do then the thread will fall out of the disks. I loop the thread one turn/time around the disk and then it works fine. Tor

Nice color, but remember the best color is white. Or else you need allot of light.

Hello Ralph, I do not know anything more about the new machine yet. They promised to inform me and that have not happen yet. Thanks Tor

Its no use to change the foot, it performed best with the roller foot. The -362 foot is not active (it does not move up and down, or back and forth; its there to keep the material down by the foot pressure spring). The -373 has an alternating presser and a feeding foot (in addition to the bottom and needle feed this machine has) That makes that machine more valuable that this of course. Nevertheless, this machine will do fine on flat material, but its no good on climbing.

The 69-373 is a triple feed, what Americans call a walking foot. (every machine with a feeding foot is also called the same). This -362 has only a double feed; a combined bottom and needle feed. (And can not be converted in to a triple feed, without spending more money on it than the cost of a new machine) The foot its only there to press the material down, it does not move. The best thing you can do is to leave the roller foot on. It is used on the lightest task of leather work, like wallets, shoes upper and small bags. 4,5 mm stitch length and 7 mm foot lift. A narrow arm machine with an horizontal rotating small hook. Used on light threads and tasks, I believe TKT 40 (Tex 69) will be max possible. However, its a nice machine class preferred by the ladies bag makers of Europe. Then mostly subclasses -373 and -73. http://sew24.blogspo.../downloads.html Tor

Suzell, Thats Chinese sewing machine industry in a nut shell, same product with 1001 different names. You must buy from the dealer you trust, or based on this forums knowledge and feed back. A high end Japan or German system motor will cost you from 600 to 1000 $. You cannot expect a 100 to 150$ motor to last forever. I use mostly German Efka motors. However, I have one Cobra digital 600 W servo motor and it works fine. It very similar to any other motor that looks like it. They all (almost) have had some issues with the speed control, but its been corrected on the Cobra now (and perhaps many others). Do a forum search on it and you will see what I mean. I do not know much about older Chinese analog motors (I never bought any). I heard the speed control are good on them, but some of them might be a bit to weak (400 Watt). The later digital motors are stronger, but do not have a good speed control. They uses an light switch. (A proper digital speed control is expensive) The digital 600 watt is more than strong enough for an upholstery class triple feed. You can even find them stronger than that. Some of them might have a faulty speed control, some are fixed. If Gregg offered me a good motor, then personally I would trust its good. Good luck Tor

Hello Bkyjones Art, they missed that factory making the Kochs Adler, (but hit a Dürkopp factory among others, these made war material too. Not only sewing machines, but motor bikes, car and only God knows what) because this particular class was made until 1975. The class 20 was the heaviest class they made, some of the subclasses has as much as 40 mm foot lift. Others only 16 mm. Then it was replaced by the class 120. The class 20 changed the color to Adler green sometimes along that time period. What is the subclass number of your class 20-?, its on the little plate on the head. In the world of Industrial sewing machines where everybody copies each other, you can find parts from other brand machines that will fit yours too. I have an opinion about who copied who, but I will keep it to myself (this time). The Singer class 7 shuttle and shuttle race will fit, maybe other parts as well. See this topic for more information http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=49777#entry322368 And here you will find some of the documentation you need, http://sew24.blogspot.no/p/downloads.html part list and manual. You will need a part list to find the part you need, a manual that comes as an bonus. If there are some part you cant find anywhere you can have it custom made. Talk to Thomas Brinkhoff (head of spare parts Dürkopp Adler) He runs this blog, he might be able to help you too. If there is a part you cannot find, let me know. Perhaps I know a address for you, or an solution. Good luck Tor

Hello Bruce, thats great news. I hope you enjoy it, because you have deserved it. The reason you received it that late was; simply that I forgot to send it. Sorry about that. However, I hope that`s forgotten now too. Thank you for your help, too. Tor By the way Bruce, Elmer's glue is that made of animal bones too? I have not seen that product here where I live. Thanks Tor

Thanks Walter, I never tried that bone glue. Seems to be a bit work. Thanks for explaining it. Tor

Thanks Simon, I am looking for one that can be used with a heated soldering iron with a crease tip on (the Filet electric). I will check it out. Thanks Tor Thanks I know this technique. I use it too. (not glass anymore)

Yes I see, that was a smart solution with the rubber. I have often used cloth over the wood, but its not easy. Sometimes I use a felt wheel like on the "fantastic leather burnishing machine" http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28079 I use Gum tragant, fibings saddle soap, bees wax, and paraffin wax mix. Then Fibings edge dyes. Depended of how much work I put in the edges. I am now looking for some good edge paint for using with the hot electric Filet tool. Campbell Randall (Bosworth) has something I can use on Chrome tan leather edges, I am going to order some from him to try it out. I see you mention several (to me) new products for edges. Like "Gum Arabic" never heard about this one. Hot glue, is that same as " shellac lacquer". The Danish ROK edge paint contains shellac, not that it works any good. Thats why I presumed it was used in other products as well. Well "beautiful edges" is a hole blog on its one. Its written page up and down with different techniques of burnishing/polishing edges in this forum. However, its mostly written by American saddler's, its not much about the European sattlers work with edges. I am sure this forum would like to see your techniques of enchanging leather edges. See what kind of product and tools you favor to use, maybe get some good tip of European product for edges. In Norway we have mostly American product in the shops. In advance thanks Tor

Thanks for the link, the shaft is to narrow on my machine, I got to use a outside element. Thanks Tor