Trox

I am no electrician but I am afraid that will ruin you motor, its variates the voltage. Be careful that you do not burn your motor. I use frequency converters on my 3 PH motors to control the speed like that, it also convert it to a single PH ( and loose a Little bit of its power, but it works well on 3 PH AC motors) If you motor is a 3 PH it will work, if its a single PH its a different story I am afraid. Then again, I am no expert Tor

Look perfect that knife,Thank you

Thank you very much Macca, thats very generous of you; It looks very good to me. If you sure you want to sell it that cheap? I say Thank you very much. PM sent Tor

Hello Macca, thank you, Nice collection. Do the knife you offer me to buy fit in a Blanchard plough? I want a extra knife for my two French plough`s.Thanks Tor

Hi Macca, The number says simply # 6 1994. If you are going to sell the other knife I might have a plough I can use it in. Send me a PM if you want to sell it. Thanks Tor

That might be possible but then you should find some aftermarket or used parts, because Pfaff spare parts prices are killers. A needle plate for my 345 was priced to 1000,- US $ at Pfaff. You can buy several used old machines for the price of those parts. Tor

I agree with K-man it depends of the material used in the burnishing tool and method of edge burnishing (wax or not). You can also make a new shaft fixed in two bench mounted frame-bearings and a V belt drive (two pulley`s that make a gear). Then you will have a pro tool, and as long as you want to without stressing the motors bearings. Frequency controllers are generally more expensive than cheap bench grinders. Tor

Hello Itch, I know this is off topic but anyway. A member friend of yours (raysouth) told me that you have a very nice embossing machine who is made by a Amish gent from New York. I am looking to acquire such a machine and wondering if you would please care to show me a picture of your and perhaps share your opinion of it. I heard the tool maker is hard to get and do not use modern communications, that will make it very difficult for me to get this machine (I am based in Oslo , Norway). I was wondering if this machine is worth the extra time and effort compared to the Bunkhouse embosser. I saw your youtube video of the smart belt punching machine of the same maker, it looked very good. In advance thanks Tor

Hi all, Like many others here I have to many machines right now and I am going to sell some of them (if I find the time to do it). In my one man`s shop I have a DA 267-373 Efka DC 1600, a Pfaff 345-H3 Cobra servo/speed reducer, a Singer 29K-72 with a clutch, 441 clone with Efka DC1550, old Sandt clicking machine and a Italian Alpha skiving machine. Backup and for sale: Adler`s 204-64 Efka vario stop, 105-25 Clutch/speed reducer. 5-27 el. controlled clutch/speed reducer, 30-15 black on treadle (x 2), 30-7 green-12 volt Dc and treadle, Singer 236W-100 post/clutch, Pfaff 491 post Efka variostop and a complete shoe repair shop with German machines (every machine, even key copying machines and cash register, every thing you need to start including materials) And I bought another big machine some days ago, it looked allot smaller in the picture than in real live. (I bought it over the phone) Its a big industrial Runo foam saw for cutting mattresses ( factory saw) Its a bit to big for my use, but its a very good machine (band knife) Anybody need one I could trade it for a smaller model or something else. he he Thanks Tor

Start with reversing two stitches and sew back over them, then the problem is gone with the wind. Have fun with your new toy (read tool). Tor

Hi, I too use the center grover foot, and for a reason. It does what its intended to do, set the stitches deep (make a groove for the thread). If you do not like it use the center harness foot instead. By the way, the center harness foot is constructed a bit to wide , where it attach to the foot bar. It to big to allow the double harness foot, but it can be modified. Not all of the available clone pressers are made with 100% accuracy, I have bought from different brands. They all look the same, but some are made better than others, the Cobra pressers are the best I have for the 441 so far. I now have all available attachments for this machine except for the holster plate. The setup that works best and leaves the best result (in my opinion) is: A standard needle plate with the groves polished off (with a buffing wheel) with a smooth feed dog. Feed dog height: 1 to maximum 1,2 mm over the needle plate (original height is 2 mm. and it pushes the reins off the plate at that height), a grover center and the harness presser foot. I tried out the slotted plate, it leaves exactly the same markings underneath the leather as the above mention setup. Minimal push-out marks from the needle only. Moreover, it does not feed or climb as good . The slotted needle plate is indented for harness and reins, lovering the feed dog will give you the same result and feed much better. Just my opinions, it may come in handy when figuring out what accessories to buy (if you cannot afford them all, they are not cheap) Good luck Tor

Well, there are Chinese business mens who are involved and they are making sewing machines to make money; to make money you need marked shares. The sewing machine dealers did not sell many heavy stitchers in the 6000 to 8000 $ range last year, it would not be smart to price them too high. They are made in China but they are new technology and the developments cost has to be covered. We cannot compare them to the cost of making copies without spare part programs. Its hard to predict what the price will be, even if its a product like no other it has to compete with whats on the marked today.

Hello all sewing machine freaks. I got an email from Thomas Brinkhoff: head of spare parts Dürkopp Adler(DA) today; about the new DA 969 H cylinderbed and 967 H flatbed machines. These brand new H type machines are made for sewing extreme applications (such as our heavy leather work) and have a high foot lift of 30 mm. Uses a big shuttle hook and have many exiting new features. I do not know much about them yet, only what shows in their youtube video http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/products/htype/969-190382.html It seems like they have used the best from the 69 (60 series) and combined it with well proven arm and shuttle hook technology from the 205 class. I liked the little new hook thread guide/guard you see on the shuttle driver, that protects the thread from getting hooked by the bobbin spring. Why have not anybody thought about this before. You can open the top of the head and get to the shafts, thats no reason for a all closed head like the old (read current) 205 and 441`s. It will still be a strong construction, the ones we uses today are more than hundred years old technology. Never change a winning team/ construction, they say. When it comes to leather tools, OLD is GOOD. However, this new design looks good. Internal direct drive position motor of course, this is not news. The easy position adjustment wheel near the thread tensions are new (at least to me), I like this idea. This can also be used as an add on on any high end system motors (like Efka and Ho Sing, its a accurate pot meter connected to the motor control box). As mention above I know very little about them and I have asked for more information, if I get it before its available on their web site; I will of course share it here. It looks like DA has tried their best to make something for the saddler for a change, and its about time they did so too. The last one is a rebuilt needle feed from the 1980`ties (205-370), this is actually the first real triple feed X heavy cyl. bed machine Dürkopp Adler have ever made. Therefore, I hope they have made it affordable for the saddler too, I think they have to do just that to sell machines. Thats my opinion anyway, before knowing enough about them that is. Anybody who have more info or opinions please let us know. Thanks Tor

Thank you Walter for the explanations, it is very interesting. To bad the engraver is not with us anymore. There are a few of your words I do not understand, could you please explain the process in German. The process of of copying the pattern from the original leather to the copper negative. Do not stress about finding any engraver, only if you meet one anyway. I do not wont you to have any extra trouble/work because of me. However, I will be grateful of any tip thank you very much. And thanks for taking the time to explain all these interesting techniques. About the Bunkhouse poly embossing plates. I have bought a few from them, they also sell under the seller name ducktrader on EBay. I use the plates in my old German Sandt clicking press, I do not know exactly the power of this machine. It has between 6 to 8 tons pressure, I think. The company recommend to put a sheet of heavy rubber under the leather when using them, and I do. They provide the rubber with the dies/plates, and they hold up good so far. They are pretty cheap and some of them gives a real good impression, some are not that good but still workable. I also tried another poly embossing plate bought on the Ebay, they ship from Thailand and Spain. The plate was very thin and wrongly made, I can not recommend these plates. However, Bunkhouse is very nice people and their plates are very strong. I am looking at their embossing machine too, it takes a one inch roll and can be used with a variety of other rolls. Its a simple design that works, it gets good reviews. Its about 500$ for the machine. I got a tip about another machine made by a Amish man in New York that should be a better machine in the same price range. However, he is hard to contact because he do not uses any modern forms of communication only letters. Moreover, he do not respond frequently to these letters either (once a year). I think thats not possibly for me who lives so far away. I was thinking about welding up a embosser myself, but then again I get paid for doing leatherwork and not welding. To something completely else. I got an Email from Thomas Brinkhoff (head of spare parts Dürkopp Adler) about the new 967 and 969 H types machines from DA. They are made to sew extreme applications (such as our leather work), have a very high foot lift of 30 mm. Integrated position motor, electronic bobbin winder, easy adjustments of stroke and position. And a very smooth design, and I bet they cost allot of Euros £ $. They have a video of it on Youtube and on their site. Nevertheless, no pdf data sheets yet. Looking very good. Tor

This is great stuff Walter. The Internet makes us all neighbors. I like your set up very much, the machine is nice too; small and handy. Lots of people uses the bigger shop press for embossing and cutting like the example in this thread http://leatherworker...showtopic=35165. The loop patterns looks very good, it takes much time to hand crease them. I bet the embossing plates was expensive to have made. If you have a good contact on embossing plates you want to share please send me a PM or post. I am looking for a manufacturer of metal embossing plates. I am buying some poly/fiber plates from Bunkhouse tools , http://www.bunkhousetools.com/ they are not bad. But I am looking for someone who can engrave custom metal dies too. Your loops looks very good, what kind of leather do you use? Do you emboss bridle leather ( waxed leather) or do you use wegtan. Thank you for posting Walter, its been very informative. Tor

Hi Walter, A very nice splitting machine. I have been searching for splitting machines for years; all I have seen was Osborn and Dixon machines. Now you are pulling out of your hat the strangest looking machines, one by one. All your machines are new to me; I have never seen any of them before… Amazing. And do you still have more? Keep up posting. Moreover, they all look 100% perfect. When you talk about loop box, is that something that you use to make box loops for harnesses? I would love to see that, thank you. Your grandparents look good, their clothes looks just like Old Norwegian traditional clothes too (Part from the lederhosen, they used hand gesponnen kniehosen). Thanks for posting Tor

Hello Walter, beautiful pictures, thank you for posting. Tor

Hello Audrey, I use 120 for TKT 40 and 130 for tkt 25 and 30. When you sew (thin) textile material wrong needle would not be a problem, because the material has natural holes in it ( it would be a problem with thicker material). When you sew thick leather/material the needle have to make room for both the threads, using to small needles you will have stitch errors. Such as the material will stick to the needle, and the needle will break, bend and hit the sewing hook. etc. Thats why you get problems when you sewed two layers of leather. Use the thread needle comparison chart or the thread needle sliding test in the pin topic about needle sizing. Yes you have used the wrong sizes all a long, because the machine is that powerful it did the job even so. Right size needle is very important to get a good result when you sew thick material. Good luck to you Audrey. Have a nice day. Tor

Hello Macca, Walter has already answered your question. I have the same tool with the original knife; which is`nt anything special by the way. Thin steel and light wood. Nevertheless, it cuts alright. My tool also came with an wedge for cutting round pieces. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=45729&hl=%2Bnew+%2Bgerman+%2Bplough+%2Bgauge here is some pictures from the topic about it. Thanks Tor

Hi Walter, Here is another great piece, this looks like it is a bit bigger, how wide is it. It must have taken your father more than two years to pay for this machine, you better not sell it then. The wedge edge split of a strap is called a "lap skive", and a wedge shape to the left or the right of a work piece is simply called a skive. The also refer to paring the leather as a skive. This is a great looking machine, it looks like inside of a swiss watch. I have never seen the like of this one before either. Thank you for showing, I love to see machines like that. keep it up Tor

Hi Walter, beutiful machine, I have never seen the like of it before. Did you make the adjustment holes as well, or only the top thickness scale? Very nice machine and looks like it is in perfect condition. The last one is Bruces favorit yes. Thanks for showing. Tor

Dear Audrey, when you fold the leather over like that it would not move as much if it is two different layers of leather. Then its important to glue or staple them together to avoid them from move and lock to the needle. A size 18 is way to small for the tkt 20 thread (tex 135), you need a size 22 to 23 (Nm 140 to 160) for that thread; Or else it would be in trouble. I have used tkt 15 (tex 180) on the Adler 67-73. However, its not made for any bigger threads than tkt 20. Any thicker needles that 140, check the distance between the hooks and the needle (to avoid the needle hitting the hook, its adjustable) The 167 uses the same hook as the newer 267, 268 and 269 machines, you can buy a new hook with quick adjustable needle guide for these machines. (original Dürkopp Adler or aftermarket parts; such as Hirose and Cerliani) http://sew24.blogspot.no/2011/10/adjustable-needle-guard-for-hooks-for.html Both Gutterman and Serafil by Amman will work very well with this machine, I use the latter myself. The sizes Nm 120 to 160 as you have listed are European needle sizes, but every packet of needles are usually marked with Singer sizes too. Get some leather pointed needles either LR or D (diamond pointed). There is a pinned topic about needle sizing top of this forum you might find interesting. Good luck Tor

Thank you Walter, to bad the Spanish tools are nowhere to be found on the Internet. Even Spanish talking member have a hard time locating any. So they stopped in time 200 years ago, thats interesting. If anybody have any info about Spanish leather tools please let us know. You can go to Spain in the weekend when you live in Switzerland, like I did when I lived in Antwerp (Belgium) 20 years ago. I look forward to see the splitter. have a nice weekend. PS. Do you use a online German-English translator like Google translate. Here is a smart little English spell check I am using, you can use it anywhere by right clicking (with your right mouse button) and on every text. http://www.iespell.com/ You have to install it on your computer of course. It does not translate, only do spell checks Thanks Tor

Hi, I will look in to it. Please post a picture of your machine, then I might be able to help you with something that fit`s. The big and clumsy foot is the problem with these machines. The information I get about your machine is; its made for sewing polishing wheels and have a high lift of 40 mm. It also have a wheel gear (gear speed reducer). It comes with an attachment for sewing circular movements. This might been taken off, but originally it came like that. You have been lucky it had that high needle lift (40 mm. if its a subclass 7 and 7a), most of the class 20 subclasses only had 16 mm lift. The reason I asked about the motor was because you wrote "a 800w servo motor", not many motors are that powerful. Normally they are from 400 to 600 w, expensive high end system servos has some more power. These are very expensive, I have one who cost about 1000 $ (German Efka 1550- 321 control box, like the one on the Adler 120 picture). You can buy a good Chinese servo motor from 110 to 200 $, I have a Cobra 220 with 600w http://www.leatherma...php?category=22 (145 $) .These motors cost about 75 $ in shipping from LA (USA) to Scandinavia, I just bought one for a friend a couple of days ago, so the info is up to date. When your machine have a gear on the hand wheel this will be more than strong enough, you do not need any extra speed reducer (like they use on the big 441 clones; Cobra 4 and Cowboy 4500). I will attach some pictures (from my sewing machine folder) of the class 20 and the successor the 120. I guess the 120 use the same foot as yours, parts for this machine is till available (German custom made and therefor extremely expensive, they might also be avaiable from DA to a normal price) The first two pictures is from Finn.no , these was for sale very cheap and was standing outside as garden decoration in Norway. PM sent about the add. is sent. Tor

Good luck. Tor