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Everything posted by Wizcrafts
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Avoid the bottom feed only machines, like the 31-15, and set your sights on an upholstery class walking foot machine. If there is an upholstery shop within driving distance, go there and see what they use. You'll want a compound feed (aka, triple feed) walking foot machine with a synchronized moving feed dog, needle and inside foot. The outside foot should only move up and down.
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Are you a tailor, or alterationist? If so, that is a good machine for straight stitching on cloth with standard cotton or polycore thread. It can also sew thin leather or vinyl seams, like thin seat covers, wallet interiors, or hems on leather pants and skirts. You may need to convert it into a roller foot machine to get even stitches in leather.
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The Singer 66 machines should not be used on important leather projects. Patches are okay as long as you sew inside the serged edges.
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Durkopp 291 hook and bobbin case caps
Wizcrafts replied to 59morris's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I split this into a new topic so that the O.P. can get the best answers. The original topic was about Efka motors. -
Buy any upholstery grade triple feed walking foot machine. They can all handle up to #138 bonded nylon/polyester thread, with a #22 or #23 needle, and sew up to or almost up to 3/8 inch. Then, with a smaller needle and thinner thread, they can sew two seams of standard weight seat vinyl.
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Pfaff 138, general info wanted
Wizcrafts replied to BaroqueLeatherGal's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Maybe this Pfaff 138 manual will help. -
Pfaff 138, general info wanted
Wizcrafts replied to BaroqueLeatherGal's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
First, find out if your Pfaff machine is using "System 134-35" (longer), or"System 134" needles (shorter), or something else. If you're unsure, remove the needle that came with it and measure it. Let us know, or post a picture of the needle next to an accurate ruler, or inside opened calipers. Then contact any industrial sewing machines dealer and order packs of 10 in each size you may need. I buy most of my needles from dealers who advertise via banners on top of our pages. If they don't have what I want, I then go to eBay. -
What is this "fur/leather" this machine for?
Wizcrafts replied to d72hemi's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
It is okay to type in German if all involved in the conversation read German. We can translate if we want to. -
You are correct about using the round point needles because of the canvas layer. However, the round point needle will tend to heat up and stick in the leather. So, buy titanium coated needles to cut through with less friction. I recommend #19 or #20 needles for #92 bonded nylon/polyester thread, or #22 or #23 needles with #138 bonded nylon/polyester thread. The larger size pokes a bigger hole that makes it easier to pull the knots up. But, this also increases the friction. Bridle leather tends to be a little easier to penetrate and sew than saddle Latigo, veg-tan, or skirting leather. I use a Cowboy CB4500 for heavy sewing jobs. I reserve the walking foot machines for lighter weight stuff. One look at the take-up lever on the big 441 clone vs a walking foot upholstery class machine should 'splain it.
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Before you choose a make and model, be aware, if you buy a machine set-up from the factory with a synchronized binder, it probably won't have a forward moving feed dog (no bottom feed assist). Most just have an up/down motion in time with the needle and take-up. In those machines the conversion cost may be meaningless because they probably can't normally be retrofitted to have a normal feed motion. Too many parts are not there. In effect, these are dual feed machines, with needle and inside foot moving and outer foot jumping up and down. You might be better off buying one machine for binding and another for regular seam stitching.
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What is this "fur/leather" this machine for?
Wizcrafts replied to d72hemi's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
These machines are a must have for repairing fur coats. -
The 29 series cast iron base for the short arm models weighs about 100 pounds, plus or minus. The base for the long arm is about 25 to 30 pounds more.
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Is this upper tension spring correct?
Wizcrafts replied to plinkercases's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Yep, there is a sweet spot on these tensioner/check spring units. Plus, they allow you to add or subtract spring tension independently of the travel. To do that you have to loosen the set screw that holds the unit in place (or a second screw in the casing), then use a flat bade screwdriver to rotate the split shaft left or right. -
New guy looking at a 29k3 and 29k172 with treadel bases
Wizcrafts replied to d72hemi's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Until two months ago a Singer 29k172 was my primary patcher. I also have a small bobbin, short arm 29k71 to finer work. I found that the bigger bobbin machine was better able to handle #92 and #138 thread. It is still just a patcher, best used for sewing on embroidered patches, repairs to boot and shoe uppers and purses (mostly the side tabs when the begin to pull loose). I got $800 for mine in trade, with a two hour drive, just like the o.p. is facing. The entire 29 series was built for shoe and boot repairs on the uppers. It is of no use on the soles. The maximum thickness that the 29k172 can handle is just about 5/16 inch. I guess that's about 7mm. The feed is via teeth on the foot, which can be turned in any direction. The machine was designed to use System 29x3 and x4 needles which are obsolete and have been replaced with System 135x16 (leather) and 135x17 (cloth). Bobbins and shuttles are readily available. In EU, you can buy Ticket 20 or smaller thread to use in the machine. Here is a thread/needle size chart showing the best combinations. If you buy this machine, learn to adjust it for various thicknesses of leather, from a few ounces up to 16 ounces. The barrel adjuster nut inside the take-up frame on top helps with the take-up in thicker materials. Screw it inward to force the take-up to pull up more thread, or back it off in thin leather. You balance that adjuster with the spring on the very top, which should only be as tight as necessary to keep the thread taut until the needle penetrates the leather. Once you are comfortable with the patcher, advertise that you can repair shoes, boots (uppers only) and purses, or sew on patches (especially over pockets!). The machine will pay for itself in a month of sewing. -
Is this upper tension spring correct?
Wizcrafts replied to plinkercases's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Your top tension disks have an integral check spring. The check spring is currently set for too much up/down travel. You need to locate a set screw on the head where the entire tension assembly goes in and loosen the screw, allowing you to rotate the entire assembly counterclockwise. Don't mess with the thumbscrew for this adjustment. -
Thanks guys! If any members try to post in this topic, or any other under help wanted, and it says pending approval, notify me. Then, leave this section of LWN, or log out, then log back in and try posting again. Let me know if your post still requires approval. The above only applies to members, not guests.
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Shall I assume the posting approval for members problem has been resolved?
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Anybody who is a member and viewing this. Please try to post a reply in this topic now and let me know if it appears without approval from me. You may have to exit this sub-forum then come back to the topic.
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I have sent a message to the Admin about this.
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Due to the fact that the Help Wanted section of Leatherworker.net is open to guest postings, all posts made by guests will require approval by a moderator before they become visible. We understand that this is an inconvenience for guests who post or reply in this section of our forum. The moderators are volunteers who do this in their spare time. Some of us have day or night jobs. Thus, a post or reply made under Help Wanted may sit there invisible to the participants for several hours before one of the mods logs in and sees the notification about a post awaiting approval. As one of these moderators who has to approve posts in this forum, I strongly recommend joining the forum so that approval is not required for every post and reply. As an official member you can post in any section without waiting for approval. Being a member will also give you permission to use our Private Message system.
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As I explained, all posts made by both members and guests need approval in the Help Wanted forum. It was not my choice.
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This particular forum has a lot of non-member guests posting requests for help. Because they are not members we have to approve all posts and replies made in this section of LWN. Unfortunately, this inconveniences actual members who choose to post in Help Wanted. All moderators are volunteers approving posts when we actually see a notification. Some of us have day jobs and may not see a request for approval for several hours. I strongly recommend taking all discussions out of here - to the appropriate sub-forum. This means that guests will need to join Leatherworker.net in order to post and reply in those sub-forums.
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Are sewing machines worth the money
Wizcrafts replied to Horsewhishper's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
You could start with a CB3200 that sells for $1695, plus gas or shipping. It sews from just under 1/8 inch up to 1/2 inch. Also, it is possible to sew into thinner material by dumbing down the machine. -
I forgot that they moved.
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Try tightening the spring on the tension disks. If the adjuster nut has bottomed out, add a washer as a spacer to gain another 1/16th of an inch of tightening.