Wizcrafts

I have owned and sold two Union Lockstitch machines. In both cases the machines were incomplete when I bought them. In both cases, they were complete and fully functional when I sold them. I spent over an hour with the buyers teaching them the basics of threading, tensioning and adjusting settings on the machines. Both buyers had no previous experience with large industrial sewing machines, but were able to sew on a Union Lockstitch because I taught them to. I would not recommend a Union Lockstitch machine to anybody unless the seller can demonstrate its operation and intricacies, or unless you have someone like me to show you the ins and outs.

Parts for the Union Lockstitch are dear. I spent a thousand dollars rebuilding my last one, which I sold a couple of weeks ago, for break even. Should you decide to buy the machine, all parts and the owner's manual/parts list are available from the Campbell-Randall Company, in Yoakum, Texas. Just to let you know what to expect, needles and awls are only sold in packs of 10, which last cost me about $34 a pack. Bobbins were going for $17.50 each. The threading rod was only about $10. Those 4-sided wrenches, of which there are three sizes needed, go for about $30 to $40 each. Once set up properly, a Union Lockstitch machine can sew 3/4 inch of leather, or penetrate 1/2 inch of plywood, with any size thread for which you have the correct needle and awl installed. This includes #554 thread!

You will want a machine known as a 441 clone. Or, a 205 clone. Or, a real Juki 441 or Adler 205. The problem with the real Juki is that it is not setup to sew leather or harness. You would have to pay extra to convert it. An Adler 205 is equipped to sew leather, out of the box. The 441 clones are what most of us here are now using. I have a Cowboy CB4500, which has a 16.5 inch cylinder arm. The equivalent in Cobra would be a Class 4. For Techsew, it is the 5100. These are triple feed walking foot machines, with huge bobbins, extra strong moving and take-up parts and very strong bodies. They are mounted on adjustable height pedestal tables, having powerful servo motors and large speed reducers. All of the above can sew at least 3/4 inch of leather, or a little more.

The Juki DNL-415 is a high speed, needle feed garment sewing machine. It has a standard size bobbin that is inserted from under the table, on the left side. The machine sits in an oil pan and has a pump to distribute the oil. It is designed to be used at very high speeds, in excess of 3,000 rpm. It is not built to handle bonded nylon thread, or to sew anything heavier than vest leather. You will not find that machine useful for knife sheathes or gun holsters. But, it will sew a pair of cloth pants in a couple of minutes.

Either the thread is not going through the take-up lever, or the shuttle timing has become retarded. If the latter, there is an adjuster accessible through a covered port on the lower front of the machine body. Don't attempt to adjust this without guidance.

Maybe will help explain your Mckay stitcher.

You are going to love that machine. I have a related machine: a National 300N, and it is a workhorse. The large M style bobbins hold about 50% more thread than a standard L bobbin.

Make sure that not only the length is correct, but also that the needle enters the hole dead center. If you install a needle whose shaft is too wide the needle will not be centered in the hole in the throat plate and timing will be affected.

Check the bobbin case to see if the thread has unwound inside it. Also check the shuttle race for cut thread between the shuttle and race. If neither of the above explains the problem, remove the throat cover and shuttle cover plate and watch the loop as the hook approaches and meets it. You should be able to see the thread get picked off and the top tread going around the shuttle. If the thread is getting hung up on something sharp, like the head of the bobbin tension screw, problems will arise.

I looked at some articles about your Adler and it appears to be just an upholstery grade machine. If so, you will not be able to sew 1/2 inch with it. Further. it will be limited to a maximum thread size #138. There are Adler models that can sew 1/2 or 3/4 inch, but they are very heavy duty machines. I had a model 204-374 that weighed at least 175 pounds, for the head only. It was so heavy it warped the table along the center line. It could sew 3/4 inch, with 4 cord linen thread, or #277 bonded thread, but the needles tended to get stuck inside the leather.

It is part of a spring edge guide presser foot set for a standard upholstery grade walking foot machine. Must have gotten thrown in by mistake.

Sounds like you are referring to the check spring that oscillates on the disk below the main tensioners. You might want to take the machine to a dealer for replacement and adjustment of the new spring.

Check out this chart - which has several different thread systems listed, including linen thread cord sizes.

SOLD Please delete this topic.

You need to know that on the sliding cam attached to the take-up lever barrel inside the trapeze, the words Dick and Dorf mean thick and thin. You set the position to "Dick" when you need extra thread on top for thick work, like over 1/4 inch. You'd set the lever to Dorf, for 1/8 inch sewing or less. 1/8 to 1/4 would use a medium position.

A bell knife skiver is the almost same as a band knife, with one difference. The band knife is a separate steel blade that lives inside the round bell. It is attached on the back to a hand cranked shaft that moves the blade in or out from the edge of the bell. One moves the blade closer or farther from the presser foot and wheel, depending on the thickness to be skived and type of material. The biggest advantage of the band knife is that the moving blade is what gets sharpened by the stones. When the blade gets too narrow to sharpen any more, you replace it with a new, relatively inexpensive blade. When a bell knife bell-blade wears out, the entire bell unit must be replaced and that will cost a lot more than a spring steel band blade.

Thanks for the links Ferg. I didn't see any band knife skivers like you have and I used to have. I do have a line on one from a member in California.

Thanks for that input Eric. I was hoping you would see this and respond.

Due to the nature of my leather business, I find that I once again need a band knife skiver. I want a steel drive wheel model, suitable for skiving 15 ounce saddle skirting on down to 2.5 ounce motorcycle seat leather. I don't care about single or double drive, as long as it feeds as designed. I will gladly buy a head only as I can come up with a half table and motor on my own. Must be in good working condition and have plenty of life left on the blade. Contact me via a PM on the forum with the details about what you have for sale, your asking price and where you are located. I have owned two power band knife skivers in the past and know about them. I am in Mid-Michigan.

Why don't you advertise it for sale in the Marketplace section of the forum, under Sewing Machinery

Leather Machine Company (Cobra brand sewing machines), one of our supporting dealers, is located in California. They often have used machines in stock, or know where to get them. Their toll free number is 866-962-9880. For 1/4 inch stack of leather, you will probably need to use #92 (Tex 90) thread, with a #20 needle. Make sure that whatever machine you look at, that it can handle that size thread and needle (read the specs).

It's the black thread acting like a spring!

Is the scarf in the needle facing to the right? Is the needle all the way up inside the needle bar? Is it threaded correctly on top, with the thread well inside the upper butterfly tension disks?

I usually buy my leather from Thoroughblood (a.k.a. Thoroughbred), or W&C. My last order was 2.5 - 3.5 ounce motorcycle seat /chap leather from Springfield Leather and it is awesome. I would call it 99.9% usable. The bridle leather backs I get from W&C are absolutely top grade and make hi-end belts, with a supple, waxed grain feel. Thoroughbred is only one step below them, with a slightly duller finish, but has longer hides. When I need the longest backs, I buy from TB. I am getting up to 108 inches on some recent bridle leather orders from TB.

Loose thread and easy to remove knots are also caused by using a needle that is larger than called for. For instance, if you are sewing with #138 bonded thread, a #22 or #23 needle is usually the best choice. A #22 produces a smaller hole and tighter knots. But, if you ran out of #22 and 23 needles and had to use a #24 or #25, the hole would be way too big and the knots would pull out a lot easier than if the smaller needle was used. If the thread/needle sizes are already correct, then the top or bottom tension is wrong. Look to see where the knots are sitting. Ideally, they are buried well inside the leather. If the knots are visible on the bottom, reduce the bobbin tension a little. If this helps, increase the top tension to raise the knots into the center of the material. If the knots are closer to the top, reduce the top tension, or increase the bobbin tension.