Wizcrafts

First, make sure the machine is complete and will make proper stitches. Then raise the foot with the lift lever on the back. Next, loosen the screw on the back of the presser foot bar and lower the regulator bracket until it stops at the top of the foot. This will give you the maximum stitch length the machine is capable of in its current state of repair. Put some tin leather under the foot, about 6 ounces thickness, and sew a bunch of stitches. A pristine mechanism will give 5 stitches per inch into this thickness. A worn out machine might only produce 8 spi into 6 ounces. If you get close to 5 stitches per inch, it is not too badly worn. If it is more like 8/inch, the machine needs new parts. If you want more information before you buy it, post some pictures showing the complete head, from the seated operator's view, and the model number. Important parts are shuttles and bobbins, the presser foot, a threading rod, and some #16 and #18 needles (depending on if it has a small or large bobbin).

This section is for machinery for sale, not for assistance with problems. Since this ad has had no replies since 2015, I am locking it. Please post your question in the Leather Machinery section of the forum.

This seller, Green Man Leather, is in a suburb of Toronto, Canada. Anybody contemplating contacting him about this machine needs to know this in case they are located in the USA. Cross border paperwork, duty and customs charges may apply. The seller needs to add a location of the machine, price and photo(s) per our rules.

There is or was a special wide aluminum adapter for the M60 double row Kingsley machines. It can accept custom made metal dies When I was stocking upon Kingsley parts I used to contact ebay user Lou_Dawg first. But, he has been inactive for over a year and I can't find any other current listings for this wafer die holder.

This "for sale" ad should be in our Marketplace section. However, since it looks like you are about to sell it, I will leave it for another hour or so. If it sells, please update your ad with SOLD.

There is also the issue of the EXIF Data that identifies a photo. If during the resizing process you maintain the EXIF data, the server will think it is the same file. But, the previous advice is a great tip. It is in effect clearing the upload cache.

You never mentioned passing the thread through the take-up lever. That lever is what pulls up the bobbin thread. Can you take a small resolution picture of the thread path from the post on top, on down? We can see what you missed. But, I am fairly certain you forgot to thread through the take-up lever.

You are hijacking an old topic from 2018. The original poster has been inactive for almost a year. Rather than hijacking this old topic, you should start your own topic about the machine in question. Perhaps you will get some help then. List the machine or machines you need help with, and where you are located. You need to update your profile to show that you are in Korea. I am locking this topic now.

Oh, I see. My bad. I thought this was just a simple misadjustment of a machine. Your machine may need professional adjustment. Any further replies should go into your other thread about your machine.

I can show you how to further reduce the size or quality to get the photo withing our limits. But, I need to get some answers first. Are you using a hand-held device, or a computer? If a computer, is the operating system Microsoft Windows or something else? What app or program did you use to resize it? What is the size in pixels you got it down to (width x length)? What is the file size after reduction (in mb)? If you are running a Windows computer, I can explain how you can use the FastStone Photo Resizer to reduce the dimensions and quality.

Watch the video that Uwe posted earlier in this topic. It demonstrates the process to get the feet in sync with the needle and feed dog.

You have a long road ahead of you as a newbie to industrial sewing machines. You might want to start by searching Google for a military operations manual for the 97-10.

I have learned over the years of doing this that some people have to learn lessons the hard way. People keep reinventing the wheel!

I used to buy machines, parts and accessories from Neal and his Dad. GISM was very good to me when I was just getting into industrial sewing machines. If I was still on that side of the border they would be my go to dealer.

6.25:1

Exactly! That's the ratio when the motor feeds the large reducer pulley and the small reducer pulley feeds the machine. My Family Sew motors have very small 45 or 50 mm pulleys (~2 inches). The total reduction from the motor to the balance wheel on my cb4500 is 9:1. AT the slowest motor speed setting, with my foot feathering the pedal, I can watch grass grow as it sews.

I used to have a National walking foot machine that I installed a Sewpro 500GR on. I wish I hadn't sold it. The machine sewed all the way up to 7/16 inch using System 190 needles, or 3/8 inch with System 135x16. That motor with its built in reducer let me sew 1 stitch per second into veg or chrome tan leather with no help needed on the balance wheel. The reason there aren't many around is because the people who built them went on lunch break and never came back to work. ;-) Actually, they had an overheating problem due to the cases warping from the heat and torsion stresses. Rather than beef up the construction, they closed the factory.

Make sure you specify you want the smallest pulley they have for the motor. Some have a 45mm and others a 50mm small pulley. However, they typically have 70mm pulleys for high speeds in textile machines, as does the motor in the link you provided. It will be harder to sew slowly with that large pulley. Then compare that diameter to the pulley on your current motor. You'll need a shorter v-belt that matches to difference in whatever measurement you use.

Leather Machine Co Customer Service 866-962-9880

Here is the motor I use: https://www.tolindsewmach.com/motors.html

Number 207 thread is a fairly strong thread. I use it to sew suede lined rifle slings and guitar straps that total about 9 to 12 ounces. It can sew 8 ounces but it is a little tricky to hide the knots. These items don't place much strain on the thread; it just holds the layers together. Handgun holsters are a different matter. The edge stitching isn't just holding layers together. It has to hold the shaped or unshaped product together under the stress of drawing and holstering a steel weapon. You want the strongest thread holding it together. I use #277 to hold holsters together. It is possible to bury the knots in 1/4 inch of veg-tan if you play with the top and bottom tensions. I assume you are making pancake holsters if they are only 1/4 inch thick. Most of our holsters run between 3/8 and 3/4 inch thick at the outer edge. There is a filler between the layers that positions the weapon. This filler can vary from 1/4 inch to 1/2 inch. Your Cobra Class 4 is fully capable of sewing 3/4 inch thick holsters!

Your thread is too large for that thickness. Move down to #138 thread and a #23 needle. And, back off the foot pressure screw.

They don't bring as much because these were highly modified machines that are long out of production and spare parts and manuals are very hard, if not impossible to find. They will have some parts in common with their ancestors upon whose carcasses they were built.

My first impression is the the thread is too large for the thickness of the leather. You can verify this by telling us what sizes the thread and needle are, plus the combined thickness of the leather being sewn. When a new Cobra or Cowboy heavy stitcher is delivered to the customer, there should be a stack of leather 3/4 inch thick under the feet, or attached by trailing thread, sewn on that machine with #277 thread and a #25 leather point needle. It is your proof that the machine was properly setup and adjusted for thick work and thick thread. Aside from the needle and thread possibly being too big for that thickness, another explanation could be excessive foot pressure for that leather thickness. When you got the machine from the warehouse, the pressure screw would be screwed way down, far enough to hold down a 3/4 inch stack of leather sewn with a loaded #25 needle. If your two pieces are only 12 to 16 ounces, the pressure screw needs to be backed out considerably. It only needs to apply enough pressure to prevent the leather from lifting as the loaded needle ascends, which would cause skipped stitches. Any pressure beyond that will needlessly force the bottom leather to be impressed into the elongated slot in the feed dog. It also causes unnecessary foot tracks to happen on the top grain. The "pressure screw" is on top of the head, directly over the bar to which the outside presser foot is attached. It is known as the "presser bar."

@JRP430 - I moved your post to the Marketplace section where all ads for items for sale must be placed. This section is for old and used sewing machines.