GrampaJoel

My question is for anyone that might know. I am new to braiding, but I like good tools to learn with. So I saved up some money, and I bought a Lace Master lace making tool to make lace with. When I bought the Lace Master tool, I also bought the optional separate crowning bar. I didn't, and don't know what the crowning bar is for, but I figured the instruction video would explain it's use. I watched the instruction video twice, that came with the Lace Master, and it doesn't say a thing about the crowning bar use. Can someone help me out with the use of the crowing bar? What does it do? I sent them an email on 3-28-11 and haven't heard from them. I also looked for you tube videos but couldn't find any. So I am asking here, because I am excited to learn how to properly use my new tool. Thanks Joel

</h3> Oh man I wish it were that easy in California.

Oh... Yeah I know that problem. I still think it was a good idea. Joel

Well now that this thread is opened up again I'll ask. Where did the photos and the pdf file go to?

Well Bruce, I can surely see your point . Very logical and practical also. I like that. I guess I am really thinking in an aesthetic sort of view. Perhaps plain wood screws and washers are used because there aren't any fancy wood screws and washers to use. I can also see the concho being used for the aesthetic value. But it does seem that I see a lot more saddles with the screws than conchos. I guess, I just wondered if there was a common reason for doing it one way or the other. Such as a regular concho being in the way of the riders leg or inhibiting the stirrup/fender movement, or something like that. I believe Shelly alluded to that in her reply. Thank you Shelly Bruce 's reply was a practical one no doubt. Straight up and to the point. I like that. Bob, thanks for the pictures. It helps to be able to see things sometimes. It seems like the more I do the more I have questions about what I'm doing. Thanks for the fine replies folks. I appreciate you helping me with my saddle building education. Joel

I have been wondering why a screw is placed at the saddle horn/bar intersection. I mean, I do know why a scerw is placed there, but,, I just wonder why a concho isn't put there like at the other places of attachment? A screw just seems out of place to me when there are conchos at the other attachment spots. Thanks Joel

Nice Job JW! I like them both. I love the look of ruff out when new, but some sure get grimy fast. Joel

I'm not a biker person, so I am curious. How are these bibs held in place on the tanks? Are they tied on at the seat area? I really like the cricket one and the POW one! Great artistry!

If the rig is not already oiled to heavily, why not try some stiff coffee to dye it with?

Of course I was responding to you as the thread starter who asked "what would you do?" Now, you indicated some concern about the safety of the kids, and voiced some doubts about the competance of the people who were teaching them. If that is all true, then what better course to take then to lead them into the idea that perhaps they had better have the rest of their equipment checked out by a professional; namely you. A bit of conversation along these lines would give you a better sense of where they stand on the issue and if they are worth bothering with .Well I don't have an argument with what you have said in the quote above. In hindsight it might have been a good thing to suggest. Perhaps if I had, had some training as a used car salesman I might be quicker on my feet at making a suggestion that would lead to a money making sale. So, I will restate, I am a leather worker, not a cop for the equine profession. I have my concerns no doubt. But they are just my concerns. But as far as being a regulator of others. I am not that interested. WyomingSlick Thanks for replying to my thread and suggesting a method to bring more revenue into my leather working efforts. It gives me something to think about for the future. Joel

I see work by a master. Absolutely beautiful! Joel

Very nice job! I think the color is perfect. It fits the bag. Joel

I don't know if you are replying to me or Fred P. In my case I had never met this person before. They had been given my card and had received several recommendations by several folks in the local saddle club. I would have loved the chance to earn a few dollars doing repairs. But they decided that the repair work they needed on the saddle wasn't worth the price of the repair. I believe that in fact the repairs would have upped the value of the saddle. (1)They wouldn't have to purchase a new saddle, and then still have this broken one laying around going to rot, and (2) they would have a saddle in good working order worth more than when it was broken, and have a few dollars in their pockets from not having to buy a new saddle. Now, all the info I have on the trainer came out in our conversation while at my place. I would have loved to see what else they are using, and have the opportunity to fix it if it was not safe to use. I could always use the bucks. On the other hand, I'm not a saddle or tack cop. It really isn't any of my business to decide what a trainer, as far as tack equipment should be allowed to use or not. That is up to the trainer and trainee do ponder. I do leather work. Period. I create from scratch, and I do repairs. As far as Fred P goes , perhaps he has something to input also. Joel

Nicely done! I think all kids should learn to ride horses. It's even better if they can have their own to take care of along with the tack to boot. Nice job. Joel

What did you hit the punches with a sledge hammer ? No, I used a 19 oz maul. I save the sledge hammer for my makers stamp. The punches where inexpensive Tandy Brand punches. They have a very sharp edge and cut nicely. But they cut into the board just as nicely. But maybe the problem is swinging a 19 oz maul with to much force. Joel

snakehorse saddler Thank you for your reply.While I haven't made any saddles from start to finish, I have repaired a few. I won't repair any saddle if I am not allowed to do a repair correctly and completely. But I sure hate to see someone else get the money. Yes it is a loss of money. Lets face it. However, I would rather be able to keep my sleep at night knowing I did what was right, and try and find the money in good work. kseidel Mr. Seidel I am honored, as always, that you have taken the time to share your thoughts. I would be happy to bring a soap box for you to stand on anytime you would like to speak about any related field of the saddle business. Thank you for contributing to my thread. The business of making saddles and equine related equipment and horse/horse rider training run hand and hand. As you stated there is no licensing requirement in order to practice in any of these professions. Maybe there should be. However, I am not a fan of big government interference. Ethics, that is what it all comes down to I guess. Joel

Back ground, Yesterday a saddle was brought in for repair to me with one stirrup leather and fender missing. It was a smaller size saddle, and the person said that the saddle is used for teaching children to ride. Not a very expensive saddle when it was new I would guess. This one had seen quite a bit of use , or abuse. I checked the saddle out and the tree originally was fiber glassed covered wood, the tree appeared old and dry with quite a bit of the fiberglass in the stirrup leather slot missing but in ok condition I'd say usable for soft riding.The saddle was missing the off side fender and leather. Upon inspection I found that the fiber glass had either worn or cracked at the stirrup slot upper edge on the bar and had splintered and created a very jagged edge. This I believe had been cutting on the original leather for some time, and is what probably caused the leather to be torn off in the wreck the saddle went through. Overall the saddles top side at first glance looked fine. But the latago was very old and worn. The remaining stirrup leather was very worn out. The fiberglass on the near side stirrup slot was in ok condition. But the leather was shot. Really shot!!! I quoted my price (I considered it to be maybe a little high), to replace the one fender and leather and tree in the fender slot area. The person said that is about the same quote they had gotten from someone else, and didn't feel the saddle was worth that amount. ok no big deal to me, I think it's good to get more than one quote. I would have liked to fix the saddle completely. Sand down the jagged fiberglass and fix it. Replace both of the fenders and leathers and put a new latago on. In general go over the whole saddle and make sure it was safe to use. I actually considered repairing the saddle at my material cost just so the saddle would be safe for children to use, But,,,, if this person sells their services as a professional, and uses a saddle in as poor as condition as this one to teach children to ride with, what else is this person doing that would endanger children while learning to ride? Now my question So what would you have done?

Hey Tim. It's good to see your still cutting leather. They look very nice. I like the colors and the leg styling. Sure is a lot of work tied up in this pair. I am wondering. How do you do the back belt lacing straight up and down like you do?. Care to share? Thanks Joel

Lamplog Thank you very much for the instructions info and the photos. They will help me a lot! Joel

I have had several of my punches break off at the tip where they became embedded in the white cutting boards. I don't recommend the white cutting boards for cheap /inexpensive, or fragile punches.

BondoBobCustomSaddles Bob I posted this thread almost a year ago. It appears that someone found this thread and posted to it instead of asking a new question. Oh BTW, yes I did get my answer. A big thanks to Troy, Jim, Andy, Steve and Bruce. Thanks Joel

I would like to see photos of you draw down with the panavice also. I have found a man who would be happy to weld me up a draw down setup.

I've found that the brass bar when engaged is in the way when you want to position leather for a cut at a certain point. So my guess would be that it swings away to allow you to place the leather with more precision. At least that is what I have been doing. I think the most surprising thing about this leather splitter is that no one has updated the design of it. For instance, it could be machined instead of being cast and have a much smoother operation. Oh well it's all mine now, and I have been cutting a lot of leather with it.

Actually, I paid $545.00 for the splitter. The rest was taxes and shipping. Yes it does say Made in USA on it. The blade is pretty sharp right from the get go. I like it, I just want to learn how to master it.