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Jazznow

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Everything posted by Jazznow

  1. Just a quick question: is fiebings leather sheene flexible, I.e. can I use it on bag with a bend over flap?

    1. Jazznow

      Jazznow

      I have. But I need something to spray on. I dyed a bag in different colors includings fiebings white. When I finish with atom wax it picks up most of the white dye :/ are there any other spray on finishes?

      Thanks anyway ray, hope you're fine :)

    2. UKRay

      UKRay

      I guessed there was a reason... All okay here fella. Very busy but only three more shows to do before I turn into a hermit for the winter. It will be good to get back in the workshop full-time again. How are things with you?

    3. Jazznow

      Jazznow

      I'm on vacation at the moment, finding time to do some leatherwork. I only have two shows this year, both in fall, and I'm preparing some more stuff to sell. Stay safe fella and find some time to relax before starting production for next years shows.

    4. Show next comments  6 more
  2. As always your work and attention to detail is stunning. Thanks for the insight into your process of making it.
  3. Just came home from shopping at the local leather store. My wallet feels so empty now... :)

    1. Jazznow

      Jazznow

      Wscott: don't blame me ;) doublec: wouldn't be a good currency. It's converted into products too fast :)

    2. Jazznow

      Jazznow

      Wscott: don't blame me ;) doublec: wouldn't be a good currency. It's converted into products too fast :)

    3. WScott

      WScott

      I am a victim of my own addiction

      No one to blame but myself

    4. Show next comments  6 more
  4. When you want to make a last, you want to stand while making the form. Put a piece of wood under your foot that has approximatly the same thickness as the height of your shoe heel. That will ensure that the last had the same angles as the foot when it's in your shoe. You don't need to use this expensive casting socks. A ordinary plaster bandage will work too and they are less expensive. Just make sure you have someone that helps you forming it to your foot. Best wishes Edit: don't forget the plastic bag. It really hurts when all your hairs are stuck in the plaster
  5. I like those turtles very much bu the other stuff is great too. Very nice work. Would lie to see more pics of that bag.
  6. As you mentioned in the pm, this may be of interest for other people too, so I will post it here again. Just to make it absolutely clear, the craft skills needed to do this kind of stuff and the theoretical background knowledge are completly different from what a normal leatherwork knows. If you try stuff like this to do yourself you do this at your own risk. You can make things worse when trying to make an orthopedic shoe and have no clue what your are doing Ok so here ya go, There are basically three places where you can adjust a shoe to orthopedic needs. First is the front and heel stiffeners. Do you have problem with your toes (I.e. are they moving sideways or bending up or down). If not don't care about. You can make a normal toe stiffener. If yes, there are a few variation of the toe stiffener that fit different needs. The heel stiffener is not important when you have a normal last. Special heal stiffeners need usually a leg last which means the last represent the foot and a part of the leg. With a last like that you make boots that have special formed heal stiffeners. For example: The X-ray of your leg looked as if you cant move your ankle joint at all. If this is the case the heel stiffeners are not important at all. If you have a little movement left in your ankle, this movement will most likely cause pain when walking. In this case you would make a boot over an leg last with a heel stiffener that is at least 20cm in height and that goes over both of your ankles. This stiffener would make your ankle completly unmovable. Which reduces pain but makes walking difficult but that will be handled at another point. Second thing you can adjust is the insole. Here I need to explain in detail a little more. As far as I know, in english you use the word insole for both the sole that is attached the last (where the welt will be attached) and those soles that you can put into a normal shoe, that support your arches. The one that I'm talking about is a little different. It can support the arches and reduce the force of impact when the heel hits the ground. Its possible to give the heel more stability too and a few other things If you are interested in this just let me know then I will explain in more detail but basically you build up this insole at the bottom of your last by putting cork under it. You need eight millimeter normal cork and eight millimeter soft cork (or sometimes called microcork). This is a special cork that is soft and thermoplastic. It's of a lighter color than normal cork and the cork particles are much finer. If you are interested in this I will describe the process of building up this kind of insole in more detail. Nice thing about this insoles is that you can add the height difference of your legs to them as you did now permanently under one of your lasts. Last thing you can adjust to your need is the bottom of your shoe. I.e. the sole and heel. There are different things you can do with a normal sole to make it fot different needs. Lets look at your leg again as an example. Since your ankle can't move your foot, you won't Be able to bend down and raise it like a healthy foot which is important for walking. When I walk I have the foot raised just before the heel touches the floor. Then I lower the foot until the Balls touch the ground. Then I lower it more and bent it down over the big toe to get the force that I need to do the next step. If I am right you are not able to walk this way without problem so you need to make your shoes In a way that helps you doing this. You can achieve that by using the leverage effect. Take a look at your last. Lift it up a little at the back as if there would be a heel. Now look from the side.Your last touches the ground at the point where the balls are (more or less) and rise from this point to the toes. Before you attach the last sole to your shoe, the walking sole, you can now add a layer of material 0.8-1 centimeter to your shoe. This additional material you will grind on a belt sander in a way that the point where the shoe touches the ground is not the balls anymore but lies 1-2 centimeter behind the balls. From that point to the front you try to get a slightly curve. You know you got the curve right when you press your shoe down at the front with a finger and it rolls very smoothly to the most front part Of your shoe. After that you attach your normal walking sole. This replaces the force you need to bend down your foot and lift it in the air to make the next step. Of course you need to add the same amount of material to the heel to make your shoe stand right. In addition you can slightly round of the back part of your heel before attaching the last heel piece. You always do this on both shoes. Here is a picture of the sole to make it more clear http://www.grifka.de...id=40&Itemid=82 And one of the rounded heel http://www.grifka.de...id=40&Itemid=82 Best wishes
  7. That machine looks absolutely beautiful. Will you do a cemented construction or a welted? I would recommend a cemented construction until you have one design that fits your needs perfectly, since it's just so much faster to do. When you have a good shoe ou can redo that one in welted construction. Btw. I'm just writing a pm for you
  8. Hi electrathon Is there any chance you can visit an orthopedic shoemaker in your area? He could give give you some hints on different aspects of the shoe you need to get a less painful walk. I'm an apprentice in orthopedic shoemaking, so by no means an Expert, but I do know there are some methods to make walking easier when the ankle is unmovable because of operation or illness.
  9. You can use the Head of a big Hammer as a Mini anvil too. Tip i got from ukray: use a Block of soft Lead as a counter when punching holes. It ont damage the hole punches and you can flaten the surface by hammering it.
  10. Hi there I cant Tell you a Place in the USA but on Monday i can have a closer Look on the packaging of our needles so i can Maybe Tell you System no. or something similar.
  11. Very clean and neat design. You did a great job
  12. Very cool bar stools. Like them so much
  13. Been there, done that, lol Every time I think I have made every silly mistake in leather working, I find out that there was at least one more:)
  14. You have to experiment with resolene. 4 layers is more than I ever did. If ou put to much resolene on you will get a sticky surface. Another point: I used acrylic paints ones. It were no leather acrylic paints but normal artist paints. I have one in a very bright brown, looking like natural leather (this one is from a scrap booking supplier) and a golden one from an artist shop. The golden one reacted with the resolene, it turned out looking like copper (which I was actually looking for, so not bad for me). So you should experiment on scrap pieces before trying on your project.
  15. The baseballs are cool. What do you put in there? Sand?
  16. Schade konnie. Kann ich aber verstehen. Musste mich auch erst an Facebook gewöhnen
  17. Then Join in not much content ATM, but it will develop into something bigger I hope.
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