terrymac

My personal choices are Stamps. Barry King for high quality, wide range range of choices, and excellent customer service. Robert Beard high quality, just have to wait for a year. He his that far behind because of demand and makes one at a time. Swivel knives, Leather Wrangler Mauls, Ed "Bearman" Berryman. He is back in business of making Mauls after a year or so break. You will find his posts on this site. There are other fine makers, these are just the ones I personally use and have experience with Terry

The only flaw that may be the errant stitch(especially on the back) that would show as being handmade. This notion that mistakes are acceptable as a means of identifying an item as being handmade vs. factory is is, in my opinion, is an excuse for substandard work and a cop out. As Nigel Atrmitage asks " If you can't do it better, than why are you making it?" Look at some the master's work, you don't find mistakes. Terry

Burnishing is compressing and sealing the fibers. I don't know for sure if that is contributing to the color..bleed. I use Vernice and Uniters and have no problem with either. Terry

Quit using the gumtrag and burnishing before applying the edge coat. The edge coat needs to adhere to bare, clean leather. What you are doing would be like waxing a bare piece of wood and then expecting paint to adhere. I personally don't use Edge Coat as there are other brands I like better. The principles still.apply. If you are applying more than one coat, then you need to either heat treat or sand between coats Hope this helps Terry

Quit using the gum trag, it will not allow the edge coating to adhere to the leather. If you using an edge coating, you also do not need to slick. Just get it smooth with fine sand paper. If you apply more than one coat, you will need to either sand or apply heat between the coats Hope this helps, Terry

The liner has to be shorter. Fold the cover about half way or one third closed while gluing liner. Only way to prevent wrinkles. Hope this helps, Terry

No, I mean to remove it all and the effect will still be there. Look at Hidepounder's work and will see all the cuts are completely clean of antique. If you leave residues you end up with the "mud puddle" look as Jeff (JSLeather) likes to refer to. Terry

The purpose is to highlight the tooling and cuts. It also applies a certain tone to the leather, but not visibly noticeable. If you want to add color, there are other products that will do a better job. When the paste is all removed the desired effect is accomplished. The primary reason people use checkered bevelers is the minute amounts are captured. Terry

You didn't get all of the antique off after the initial application. If you have antique flakes, you didn't come close to getting enough off. You want to make sure none is left in any grooves anywhere. It sounds like you did the right thing in using a wool pad, just didn't get enough. I don't use Tankote as a resist as I feel it does too good of a job, but I do use it as a final finish. I use Clearlac as a resist Hope this helps Terry

Just the green. It is some pigment Fiebings puts in its spirit dyes. Doesn't seem to be as bad in the.Pro series Terry

TanKote or Clear Lac will remove it Terry

My best guess is you didn't remove all of the paste. You need to use a piece of wool, either synthetic or real, to get the antique out of all the cracks, etc. If you trying to use a rag or paper towel you are not getting it all. Your sequence of applying is correct. You don't have to let the antique sit for any period time. It doesn't make any difference. Terry

Sorry about that gang.. The irons are a #7.. Here is a picture:

Rocky Mountain Leather Supply sells various calf skins and will split to whatever you want at no charge. Terry

I believe they would be standard. They are fairly hefty chunks of steel. Hope this help s, Terry

Buyer disappeared. An 11 tooth and a four tooth, in mint condition. Eighty dollars, shipped no charge in U.S. Will have to check shipping charges for international.

The best book I know is "Sheridan Style Carving" by Bill Gardner and Clinton Faye. It is the Holy Grail as far as I am concerned. Terry

For a skiver that won't break the bank is the one Lisa Sorrel sells. It comes sharp and the key to any skiver is keeping it sharp. Lisa advertises on this site or she used to Hope this helps Terry

Sold

No, I am saying if you don't glue all the way to the edge, you will a line of separation at some point in the future. Hope this helps

Not pulling too hard is important, but normal usage will also affect it. You don't glue the edges on a belt or wallet all the way to the edge,. they will separate. Promisw e

Picture

I think I bought these new five or six years ago from Booth n Co. Do not have pictures.

I have a set of #7 Dixon Pricking Irons for sale. One with eleven teeth and one with four teeth. Like new. I have given up on the awl and have gone to KS Stitching irons. Eighty dollars for both, shipped and insured in the US. Overseas, will have to check shipping charges,

What is sad is there used to be a number of people on this site that when they gave advice or a suggestion, you could take it to the bank. For whatever reasons they no longer participate. I can only guess the reasons. I am sure Hidepounder got tired of trying to explain what Sheridan style carving truly is. He could go thru a complete explanation of why flowers and circles do not automatically translate to Sheridan and he might as well have been talking to a wall. Charlie from Equs Leather used to be a regular contributor, but I will bet he got tired of arguing with people. Oh well, nothing stays the same and life goes on.