JLSleather

26 feet for $140? From now on, I'm goin shoppin' with YOU 140 / 26 = $5.40 / ft ... That's better than tannery price.

Cool! I'm not much on the blue background, but I ONLY say that because it's shorter than saying I like the REST

With the needle that close to the end of the cylinder, those machines might work great for bag gussets and seams. I would just check to make sure they will accommodate the needle and thread sizes you want to work with.

Nice discussion Oldtoolsniper. I THINK I do some okay leather work, but I knew a guy 'back when' certainly had something to say about color. He DYED his own woodwork which, as you said, is not a 'sit in on the top' thing. You could cut the leg off one of his chairs and that was the color ALL THE WAY THROUGH. Fascinating. Don't even get me started about how he curved wood (permanently) with steam and some clamps. Crap. Now that I think about it -- Jim really made what I do look like a little kid with a crayon! But then I've always loved real wood. But, back to the airbrush thing ... I've been meaning to put something up on the site showing some very basic airbrush techniques. I certainly would want to include this "fade" thing everyone talks about - perhaps if we get EVERYONE doing it people would give that a break Genuinely SIMPLE to do - and anyone who knows Gibson guitars knows it's been around a LONG time (Gibson called it a "sunburst" in teh 50's). There are a LOT of effects to be had with even the most basic equipment. The little pic attached was done to show a few of these 'results', plus my little one wanted a place to keep his jig heads. Remember that little bag.. Tandy usedta call it a "wander" bag. For size reference, it's shown here with a spool of 3/32" lace... OH! I should perhaps add that is NOT TOOLED at all .. just some Fiebings spirit dyes sprayed here 'n' there ...

$1 return per $100 spent. Sounds about right

Wow, those are DEEP. Is your leather dry when you sew? Any moisture left in the belt can make your presser foot become basically a beveler tool. What machine do you have that doesn't adjust at all?

Yep, clicking (die cutting). Depending on your location, you might find someone close to you in the services section toward the bottom of the forum. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=88

That gal at texas custom dies says they'll use an .ai, .dwg, .dxf, .pdf and a couple others. FWIW

Thanks fellas..

I buy backs (side with belly removed). These generally run in the $180 range after shipping. But from that I can cut off the shoulder for holsters (8-10 of those) and still cut belts 1.5" wide and end up with about 18 of those (give or take two, depending...). Making each strip $10 (ish), after shipping. If you're going with solid colors, black / brown / tan / russet / chestnut ... and some others, I recommend W/C drum dyed backs (the prices mentioned are for theirs).

Somebody correct me .. but I believe that's a Right foot Double toe foot blanket set (3-piece) Holster Plate Stirrup plate Slotted plate Never used. Never gonna git used. At least not here.

Hey, Robert With that kinda moolah.. feller could do lunch COUPLE o times

So, you're not going to share this wisdom? It was okay to ask, but not okay to tell? No problem, just good information to know.

Hi, Joanne -- I'll get a picture of what's here in a bit. I'd take PayPal payment, but seems like you should see it ahead of time. Check what you got coming with your machine, though -- hate to see you paying for what you already have on the way!

I'm not seeing the benefit there, personally. I've broken threads in machine stitching, and I'll tell you it does NOT "come apart". If you've glued belt layers with permanent bonding cement, then the thread is merely cosmetic. If you didn't stitch it AT ALL, you STILL wouldn't get it apart. There is some stretch resistance added with the thread, but it's minimal. Keep in mind that 1) thread stretches too, and 2) if normal wear of a belt causes significant stretch - you might consider the leather you're using (it aint the stitching problem).

Well, I'll wait to see the pics. Sounds like we may be saying the same thing in different words. Think of it like a regular holster, you need the width of the gun extra in the stitch line (that's about 1") you need the width of the gun extra in the front panel (that's about another 1") But, I do NOT have any one person out there with 10 of my holsters, so I'll just wait for the lessons

Not sure what that said .. perhaps yer autocorrect is too active? Idunno ... I'd take a couple hundred for ALL of it . Oh, and that IS the way I'd sell it... one package deal.

Not sure if there's any interest in these at all. Got some spare feet that came with the machine, that I'm quite sure I'm NOT going to use. Oh, you can check that cobra site, it'll be the Double toe foot Right foot Holster Plate Stirrup plate Slotted plate blanket set (3-piece) I use the outside toe (left?) and a couple of times I did use the edge guide. Everything else in the bag and can go. No, I don't have a picture of it. But I could take one if there's any interest. Interested parties throw me an offer. I personally don't think they're worth what I paid, but since they all fit in a small priority box, they aren't taking up so much shop space that I want to give them away, either.

It's certainly true that leather is the same regardless of how it's cut. One guy with an x-acto, one with a head knife, one with a clicker die. For those who miss this, Hermann Oak "A" grade (for instance) doesn't care which knife is used - still the same quality leather. Any operation that doesn't IMPROVE the finished product is wasted work (and usually a grift) I can make a double-layer belt from the top grade Wickett & Craig drum dyed skirting leather for well under $20 (depending on yield from the hide, likely closer to $15). I know that, because I do it. If I didn't feel like making one, but I need one, I'd wanna pay $65. Since that's about what I would want to pay, then that's about what I charge. Do the math - that leaves me "making" about $50 per. But all the "processes" are negligible time. Cut two strips, glue together, trim if needed, stitch (the only part takes really ANY time at all), punch holes, attach buckle. Now without going into how many MINUTES each of those takes, here's the point ... INEFFICIENT does not equal better QUALITY. If that belt takes you 3 hours, you're not "better", you're just slower. PUH LEEZE do not give me $20 worth of materials, an hour of your time, and a pretty story and ask $100. Your story isn't worth that much Gluing two strips of leather does not warrant $30/hour. GREAT leather is $9 / foot. It is not worth more because you WALKED to pick it up. I can tell the difference between "each one is unique" and you just couldn't duplicate it. Yikes, I forgot how simple this is I've been busy making holsters and the occasional belt. Looks like I need to go make a pile of belts ...

That IS purdy. Did you block dye the black?

I"m gonna guess that he did enough 'trial and error' (in his words, 'reams of paper') that he didn't want to share his labor with EVERYONE But with that Glock, I'd say that 'extra' that he added to the front panel was in the 2" - 2 1/2" range. No time for the long version this morning. Keep in mind, one of the benefits of a pancake holster that has some of the "shape" in the back.. is less exposure to the outside. It's the same thickness either way, .. .1 piece leather, 1 pistol, then another piece of leather. But all the form out one side tends to leave a more pronounced "lump" on a guy's hip. I get folks who want every detail of the gun showing in the leather. Other guy ask me if I can spell "conceal", since he DOESN'T want it to show ... I don't know nuthin' bout no sheet metal, but if you have someone near you experienced with leather, don't hurt ta pick a fella's brain. But if you like the idea of "flat" (ish) back, you might try multiple layers of leather. Like, say yer gonna use 9 oz leather for your rig. Then you might make that front piece out of 9 oz BUT make the back piece from two pieces of 4.5 oz laminated together. Tends to be more rigid, all else equal. You'd get a bit of 'shape' in the back, but the majority of it will go to the outside (if there's enough leather to allow it). Oh, and yes --- trial and error is a teacher. If we learn from our mistakes, then the guy who knows the most is the guy who made the most mistakes.

Okay, not so many votes, but looks like about 3 otta 4 rather see the markings on just one side.

Funny ..I just watched a good bit of that video - though i've watched it before. At half way through, he already has a better looking holster than much of the stuff you see sold. I'd just rough guess it's because he's interested in making a holster, which is not the same as interested in making a video about a holster ...

I don't recommend videos usually. First thing out of some folks, "buy a book", "check utube".. blahhlahblah. There are thousands of other [supposedly] holster making videos "out there", but the vast majority of them - free or paid - are a complete waste of time and generally filled with marketing crap. This guy is a bit gabby, my opinion, but he DOES show what you're talking about. Stitched together (including a lining) and THEN formed ...

Agreed. People love to say 'buy here', but truth is the US is largely lazy. They've done nothing for so long, that many think if they actually DO something they should be paid a mint. The labor charge is higher -- not because it's better - because people think they deserve it. I see it all the time -- people have no intention of working. If they get fired , which is rare, they'll just apply for welfare and / or unemployment. Handmade means NOTHING if the product made isn't BETTER than it would be some other way. And I don't mean somebody TELL me or try to CONVINCE me it's better. I mean I can SEE it's BETTER.