JLSleather

That sounds right. Must be the water in our neck o the woods

Downloadable holster patterns moving to jlsleather.com/ Still more in the works. Paypal ready, no 'subscription' required

This was actually worth repeating. Money isn't counted until the order is completed and delivered and it isn't completed and delivered until the customer has it in his hand and approves of it. I've seen people begin to work with leather (it happens in other fields too) and have a little success. Sometimes, they see 'expenses' as simply more leather, bigger sewing machine, more awe-some-er tools / tooling, etc. But more than once these people forget the "back end" of this ... you must be ready, willing, and able to send a refund immediately. Something should be 'in reserve'. I've seen people spend money they made legitimately. Doesn't matter why ... more materials, bigger tooling.. anything they perceive as "business" expense. But then there's a customer or two who wants to return for a refund -- and they don't have the purchase price to refund. Doesn't need to be the maker's fault -- could well be the customer thought the color was lighter, or that height is uncomfortable, or just the wife said they can't spend that money this week! For my money, I can live with a guy shipping my goods a TAD bit late, if I've been informed about it. But the guy who doesn't accept refunds, or takes a long time to do the refund, will never see my business again.

Are we still on this? For tools that make their design from single impressions, the Tandy tools are not superior. By that I mean, basket weave, geometric stamps, perhaps some vein and seed tools -- anything where the FACE of the tool becomes the FINISHED LOOK. But for bevelers, shaders (thumbprints), etc. where the tool is walked, this is far less important. Certainly the newer tools at Tandy -- say in the last 5 years or so that i know of - are pretty sad and I won't own them. But my older ones work just fine. I personally think much of the "difference" in tools is marketing POO. As in a t-shirt is $6. But somebody tell you it belonged to a relative of Elvis, and suddenly they want $6k. Same shirt, different day. Yes, I know the munkys will be here to go on about this guy or that guy is THE guy. But truth is, there is nobody here - in fact nobody LIVING - that invented any of it. BEAUTIFUL saddles were being crafted from leather CENTURIES before anybody here. They didn't use Craftool brand.

Yep, I use some. Thread Exchange got several brands, too - and the service is good.

There's a stack o' machines kin stitch leather. By double, I assume you mean about double 7 or 8 ounce leather. That's under 1/4", so most machines you hear about around here are going to work. The larger issue is one that will sew smoothly with the thread size you'll want. Lotsa boys around these parts use 277 thread on holsters / belts. My personal opinion - while I've used 277 (including today) I think 207 thread makes a belt / holster just fine. Point is, I wouldn't go smaller than that on the holster (though I HAVE stitched belts with #138 thread). Not sure why you'd have an issue finding a holster for the RIA. Maybe i'll go look that up, see what the issue is. If it's just a matter of 'blue guns', the real gun worrks just fine I order from Rob over at bluegunstore.com (composite material) and also from Scott up at duncansoutdoor.com (aluminum). Between the two, they usually have what I need.

Hey Jon - I vote for the correct reducer also (Fiebings with Fiebings, Angelus has their own, etc.). These certainly are the top two popularity-wise. I've used both with good results, but I can tell you a couple things you'll want to NOT do. Don't use that denatured alcohol stuff. Yes, it's cheap. But it doesn't work nearly as well, and the stuff's main function is to destroy brain cells. Don't mix the Fiebing's with the Angelus - not even the reducer. "Everybody" said it's the same, so I've tried it. Fiebings dye with angelus reducer leaves a sickening 'tie-dye' look that normal people don't much care for. Well, perhaps if you're into that zombies n skulls thing, might work for ya You can oil before or after dye, or BOTH. Trick is to use the oil SPARINGLY. Like kinda hold up a jug of oil, take the leather in the other hand, and then TALK about oil for a bit. Then put both down NOt TOO much more than that. As a rule, I oil after dye is finished, but each his own. I HAVE dyed leather that was previously oiled, and I dare say I'm not the only one. Beyond that, depends on HOW you dye. If you're dipping the leather in a bowl of dye, then I'd let it set at least over night. I've airbrushed leather, and slapped oil 10 minutes later. Then finish on in the morning and stitch in the noontimes....

http://www.usacuttingdie.com/services.html Do you know what the size and radii are?

Depends on what you mean by "punch". You might talk with that little feller from TX custom dies. Never dealt with him, but people I know who have, say good things about them folks. And they do make "mallet dies", in case you weren't aware of that.

Are you talking about veg tanned 3 oz, or garment type leathers? For chrome tanned leather in a 'bag' weight, you might check with http://stleather.com/ Their on-line catalog is pretty lame, but the leather is just fine.

No pics of the holsters made with that pattern? Well,.. maybe too soon ..

Welcome Maybe get this holster stitched, and then work on something about HOW those patterns are done. Looks like rain coming again anyway ...

Okay, having done a google fer JLSleather + needle, I found SOME of that older info. Here's one thread, where a few of us went on about needle size, sittch length, etc. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=59875 I see in that thread there was a couple o the boys asking where I got needles, and I must have missed their question. So then.. I'll try to find that deal where i got the LR point needles. I got them by MISTAKE (or malice) -- since I didn't order them - they were sent INSTEAD of what I ordered. Alrightey then.. for speed... The top pic shows the SAME stitch length, same tensions, same needle SIZE, but different needle POINTs. Bottom is a clos-up of - well - exactly what it says Nice straight line stitch without gaping holes or wide leather tears... Note that the LL appears to have a shorter stitch length (it doesn't) due to the stitch being pulled down better (neither of these was grooved first).

I took a picture a good while back, showing rows of stitching, all with the same 207 thread and #23 needles. One row with a "LL", one with a "S" (or was it a "D"), one with a 'LR'. Same thread, same stitch spacing, same tension -- no changes there. And you could clearly see the difference in stitches between the assorted needle geometry. Can't find that pic now, and I didn't see my post in a search. I found posts that were older, so it's proably not that ...

There have been a LOT of ways leather has been done - in different colors and shades, using different techniques, on different leathers. Some use color only, others are tooled for shape and then colored - all called "wood grain". You might check Tandy's 'doodle pages', I know there have been some done about creating wood textures. Kat Kuszak (not sure that's spelled right) did one back in the 80's that I found particularly memorable.. .

I certainly DO like the color contrast with that bag, AND the uniform contrasting stitching. Nice work. Only "minus" - isn't really a 'minus'. I don't care for the pictures in the trees or grass.. but maybe just for your info and not intended to be an issue. ..

Keep in mind that those 793 needles are not "diamond point" - they're round point needles. Not "bad", just so you know. Beyond that, it looks like they sell a "D" point, and "S" point, and an "LR" point. All of these are "leather" needles, and are the same shank diameter and length (meaning they're interchangeable). But the stitch left by each is different. Personally, I like the "LL" point needles, and use them almost exclusively. In fact, one place I ordered 'LL' and they sent "D" and "S". I suppose I'll use them somewhere, but I have never called those people again...

Yep. Don't know where my other comment went about this, so I'll say it AGAIN -- these are AMAZING! Not like the munkys who tool (including me) -- these take some SKILLS

YIKES, that is STUNNING! I always said I kin teach any monkey what aint drunk to tool leather, but this here is AMAZING!

Perhaps you are correct - that may be a bit easier to follow if one of the patterns was shown so a guy could 'follow' what's going on. Usually, it's the other way around... someone purchases the pattern, and then downloads the free instructions. But, don't let nunna them sidewinders say I kaint be reasoned with .... Pancake style holster pattern for G19 / 23 / 32 now up on that link (this is just another design to fit the same gun as the other pattern for the same models). http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/holster-diy/

Thanks, fellers Got the one with the reinforcement panel (that some foks seem to like) drying out right now ...

I don't glue em (nor do I have a "breather hole"!). I make the belt to a thickness that will "just" slide into the tip-- all the WAY in. Mark through the holes in the back with a scratch awl (or similar tool), remove the belt, punch small holes where the marks are (like maybe #00 holes, or whatever is just under the size of your screws), put the tip back on, and twist the screws (TWO of em) into the holes in the leather. Try to pull it off, you'd destroy the tip before the leather came out ... Sorry, not seeing where I have a picture of the back side of one ...