JLSleather

Actually, I've seen yours. I think I'll just stop there.

Pretty sure that's what I said. AND, Aaron's correct -- the craftools currently for sale 'over-the-counter' are not the same ones available years back. AND, you're correct -- I sometimes say things my own way. You don't really need to spend all that energy suckin' up if people know the leather will be done right. I leave the long-winded facebook/tweetybird/pinholer stuff to people who talk better than they carve.

Yeah, it aint always in the right pile, that's true. That .155 "should" be in the 9/10 pile, but it doesn't hurt to check. Of all the complainin' about Tandy, I actually LIKE their 'Royal Meadow' leather, but I know ahead of time that the 3/4 is actually going to measure more like 4.5 oz. Long as I know that it's fine. For myself, I prefer a belt in the 10-12 oz range (7/8 or 8/9 backed with a 3/4).

Thanks, Aaron .. and those stars are stamped (yep, cheap crap, Tandy Z-something) Oh, and jus fer fun, here's the rest of that design. I think these are hard. NO part of the design is original, except the size and shape of the binder. With an original design, you can do whatever shape you think of, and you can make it any color you want to. With this, and a few others, some Coast Guard boys went nuts needing these for some kind of rank thing. The design had to adhere to the original and the colors had to be at least quite close. The anchor design is standard USCG 'stuff', and the grey (which was a bit difficult to match) is some kind of job classification (hydraulic guy, I think). So, the emblem and classification courtesy of the USCG boys, the banner mine, and the color belongs to a little chubby girl. Still, I kinda liked it.

Oh, and all these belts made with the same useless 'junk' (some by me, some by that chubby girl). Crap - I should just throw those old tools away, maybe ... (I admit it seems a bit rediklus to use a compressed file to talk about detail )

That sounds heavy for double - 8/9. I've made them about .240-ish, but that doesn't like some belt loops. Lately, seems folks have been wanting them 3/16-ish", which is about double-6/7oz, and skive the inside so it goes all the way through to the end. And, 1.5" wide is definitely most popular.

It depends on what you call "small" and "detail". I bought that B197 a LONG time ago, still use it. There's always some monkey wanting to talk you into buying some more stuff around the leather shop. YOU decide if you need it, or it's just someone repeating something they heard from someone who heard from someone .... If you want to spend more money, get the best grade of leather available. learn the proper moisture content, and have fun. These were done with those "cheap" craftools (including the 197) with chubby little fingers ... (oh, yeah, the anchor picture actual size is 6" circle, chain links are about 1/4" long x 1/8" wide).

Lookin' good Musta took like over a ower ta lace that thing ....

Buy the side. It's going to be less expensive. Beyond that - define 'useable'. Ordinarily with a side, it's all useable, less i cut a bit off of the neck / outer shoulder area (whre it joins the belly) to use for testing colors / setting sewing machine tensions, wiping my feet at the entry, etc. And the bellly is generally noticeably "looser" grained, really not for tooling. Still, it lines belts just fine. If you're making billfolds, I'd go with a 3/4 oz (some prefer a bit on either side of that) and get the side. Depending on where you shop, you may get away with 1/2 side (but expect a cutting charge). As a rule, figure about 3.5 billfolds per square foot. This will depend on the style wallet you make, obviously. Short version, I like to buy backs most of the time, whicih is a side with the belly removed (for the reasons already stated).

I usualy get Barge by the gallon, but ran out early a while back so I picked up a qt of the "Tanners Bond" stuff at Tandy I was passing by. VERY strong grip, but also VERY strong chemical. I used it all, and it works just fine, but you really need to have a ventilated area to use it in.

Thats a teeny picture, so ...some guesswork. If it's actualy skippin the stitch, make sure you go all the way down and start to come back up before pivoting. If it's not skipping, but actually pulling the bottom thread up and over (which is how it looks in that little pic) then yes, tension issue. But, keep in mind that tension can be altered a bit by the needle size (bigger hole, easier to pull up). If it appears fine elsewhere, and issue is at the corners - I would check to see that I'm not pulling (distorting) the hole or pulling on the top thread when the leather turns. Doesn't take much to cause that with the foot up. I might try the same material with a size smaller needle (or maybe a fresh, sharp one the same size) before altering everything else. I'm certainly no 'pro' behind the wheel of these things, and if Wiz chimes in and tells you I'm wrong, then the smart money says go with what HE tells you But, I do thinnk this is worth a shot ...

Try to keep in mind the POINT for the tools you're using. I certainly WOULD reverse the vein tool as suggested. The idea is not 'cause it's in some pattern' so much as the idea is to give the illusion of roundness and shape to the leaf. This seems common for new guys, and long as you are aware of it you likely won't fall prey to it. Don't think about placing a tool that looks like veins -- think about making a leaf. And, if you don't have one already, I would suggest picking up a modeling spoon. A few minutes at the end rounding those hard bevel lines will make a world of difference in the final look. Keep it up.

As a rule, I don't know why people use that antique stuff. Looks a bit like someone puked on perfectly good leather Here, Bob (Klenda) has used it to make a VERY simple design (not intricate or time consuming) look VERY nice. Now, that could be an antique PASTE, or a GEL, or even an antique DYE (and one old boy used to put Fiebing's dye in Tan-Kote for a nice effect). Best bet, if you really want to know, I'd send a message to Bob -- he just might have the time to tell you what he used.

Other way around. Carve it FIRST, do any coloring you want, THEN stick n stitch. Much better defiinition in the carving. You 'could' tool it after it's one piece - much as you could emboss layers - but it's easier to tool first. One exception, a fella might stitch it together before coloring if you are planning to dip dye both sides. Also, pretty popular to put white (or natural) thread on brown or black leather. This can only be done by coloring FIRST, then stitching (go ahead, somone paint in between stitches to prove thats wrong )

Welted construction, contrasting welts and straps, full length zippers, ... I'd say your "fail" is off to a great start! TWO things to note about this bag. 1.) The wrinkles and 'fuzzy' flesh side makes this bag look like the leather may not be the top-o-the-line. Looks dry, actually. 2.) I've never been a fan of pre-punched holes, for stitching or otherwise. 3.) I obviously can't count, and since the bag is yours then my opinion is only worth "so much" anyway. Great start!

That zipper is stitched to vegetable tanned leather "gussets", which are then attached to the case. Not sure the reason for "multi-directional" on a case this small. I think the 'norm' with this type of case is a zippper running the length with a hole in the pull large enough to fit a lock, and a "dee" or sqare ring on the end that the lock attaches to when it's closed. As for the actual constructing of the gussets, absolutely check out Stohlmans book on leather cases. The cases shown are largely outdated now, but the principles are still used. The style you are looking for are clearly outlined in the book cover, notebook, and briefcase (variations at each). Purchase at store or download here.

It's just copper ... a wire cutter will do it.

One more nod for the thread exchange. Lots of sizes and a wide range of colors. Shipped quick. http://www.thethreadexchange.com/ And, temper this with the thought that if where you bought the Cobra is treating you well, and has the thread you need, thre's something to be said for loyalty

Don't see any pictures, actually, but if you're getting a stain from the buckle then it's steel. Use brass buckles and you won't have that.

I've used Saddle-Lac for years. I like the way it looks (and the way it works) but I don't put it on everything - some things just don't do well wit the gloss. And, yes, if I had to guess I'd say you applied it way too heavy. You CAN get that off, with deglazer. Depending on the size of the project (and the tannage, and a few other things) it may be easier to replace the project. About the only time I ever strip the finish off of anything is for a repair, and I don't repair stuff someone else did, so ... Keep in mind that these days there are two different versions of Saddle-Lac. One is much like it always was, the other says right on the jug "new higher gloss blah blah" and they are NOT kidding. I grabbed a couple a whle back, not realizing i was getting one of each. Big difference.

Got it .... two votes for grain side.

I see they have TWO listings for the 100 pack -- one says stainless and one doesn't (black phospate finish). I assume that's your issue with the magnetism? So, while it doesn't SAY stainless, you might ask them over there. I dare say the folks using hacksaw blades are NOT using stainless. Two things here, though. Being magnetic does not mean the metal is not stainless. There are THOUSANDS of stainless steel alloys, many of which are magnetic. Some of the listings over there DO say "stainless". Now I'm wondering if these are stainless steel COMPOSITION or merely stainless COLOR.

Never tried the biker wallet version, as biker wallets might tend to attract (EWW) bikers. Some of the other interiors - like you said - can be time savers. And, it does keep a fella from havin to buy a whole skin of lining leather and all that's associated.

that does seem to be the trend. And, for a chubby girl who hasn't made holsters for a while, that aint bad

As a used-to-be tool n die man, Autocad wasn't a choice, but a requirement. Seemed to translate to a number of other things, inluding leather. Not necessarily better, just what I was used to.