JLSleather

I have the 206RB-5. Pretty painless, and no problem with a couple layers of 5 oz. Runs good. Still, unless it's new, that price seems a bit severe.

Nice sheen to the color. I like it! Oh, and the web site looks good too

Chubby girls and their paint brush

No, no accident. They'll cut you a piece. I think this piece was off a side -- they cut 'em down and sell backs n bends, so this is 'left'. But they'll cut for you. A while back, i had ''em sell me a side, then cut some strips off the side , then skive the strips thinner. Yikes, I paid for it! Still, saved me some jerkin around, so ....

I just got a 2/3 single shoulder at Springfield. Not sure,but I think they cut it there. HO leather, and order says item # 911-4005, for what that's worth. This is purdy darn thin, really. I got the single shoulder - must be 5-6 feet - cuz I needed ONE piece this light (holster lining). Then decided with some mahogany stain some more of it could become that wallet that lady wants. Point is, this stuff is thin enough I'm INVENTING ways to use it

The 16 is a chisel point. The 17 is a cone point. And yes, you want the 22.

Yep, thread comes off the top, but I'll give that a shot. THANKS

Ah, got it. Actually, I was just replying to HER post, and you had just commented so I used some of what you said. No offense intended - and no offense taken.

That's a tough question. Supposedly, there's more 'control' in the so-called higher grades. But I don't know that anyone is testing - say - tensile strength of the fibers. Short version, I've bought some Tandy leather over the years. Some of it was fine. The craftsman stuff tends to be dry, loose grained, and sometimes even had visible 'stuff' on the surface that Im pretty sure dye won't penetrate evenly. In the past - oh, say two years - I have purchased a few of the 'live oak' double shoulders when I needed a small piece of 8/9 or 9/10. Not SO bad, though it seems like their quality is NOT improving lately. I'll give them this much, though. If you're talking about 'grades' or 'brands', their "Royal Meadow" seems pretty good (though I admit I don't buy any without going to the store and picking it out). The belly is spongey as any, but cut that off to use for linings, for testing dyes, and setting machine tensions, and the rest is fine

Yep, didn't think about that one. I suppose I assumed that we all knew the difference between full grain leather and bonded leather. Point taken. When I said "looks the same" I perhaps should have said IS the same. All things equal, 2 pieces of leather cut from the SAME hide, tooled and / or colored the same (looks same), should cost the same - regardless of how it was sewn (IF it was done properly). What I dont care for is all the 'hype-ing'. You know, my stuff sucks but I'm on 3 or 5 or 6 "social networking" sites going on and on about it, so you should buy it anyway. Or the one about "doing leather for 10 years" (or 20, or ...). Here's a tip.. if you've been 'doing leather' for 10 years and your stuff sucks, then you sucked for 10 years (duh). But, I'm grown. If you want to sell it, and you can, then do that. We all know people have paid good money for crap, and it won't be the last time. The "pet rock" made MILLIONS. It ws a rock. In a box. With air holes.People bought them for YEARS. Did the fact that people spent their money make them "better"? Personally, I don't honestly care what someone charges or why. That's what "mine" means - if you own it you can do whatever you want with it. Even if you suck. Or if you're Chinese. Or if you're not. BUT, sometimes posts take a turn. The gal originally asked about pricing her own belt DESIGN.

Thanks, fellas! Yeah, thats the manual I have. Pretty much useless. And the first thread was black bonded nylon. Switched to a almost new spool of white bonded nylon, which got a little further before doing the same thing. I switched needles, threads, backed off all tension cleaned disks, rethreaded, and then re-set the tension. Somewhere in there, stuff started working. Now, if I only knew which one or combination of those things was the trick. It was a good lesson, though. Silly me for only having one machine (sold the other one over a year ago). I got orders to fill, and I can 't have something like this shutting the place down. Guess I can justify spending some money -- now if I just actually HAD some ... Appreciate the responses, fellas!

Ohhhhh... well, that explains it. I didn't realize that there was a "ACTUAL guitar strap - I was just using a "what if" scenario. Yikes, that explains the claws out reaction.

Goliger has HO "A" grade at $8.32/ft, at least for the full sides

Anyone know anything about these 206-rb5? I suppose i'm spoiled, cuz the thing has always ran without incident. The manual is useless. Today, the thing is twisting the thread above the needle. Project ruined - fair enough. Now to get the thing back on the road. Machine loaded with #22 and 138 thread. What I tried: Could be the needle (most delicate link and thus maybe most likely). Changed out the needle, still got issues. So, changed out the thread spool, and just in case, another new needle (case I buggered it with step 1). Better, got down one side of a belt before I get the twist again. The twist is appearing ABOVE the needle.

You have enough pressure, that's not an issue. With the hardest of leather (except rawhide) that press should cut those rectangles easily. Shear strenght at just over half of that to blow a hole in 8-10 oz leather, but the knife action in a steel rule should further reduce the tonnage. Obviously, you'd need plates heavy enough top and bottom to support the perimeter of your dies, and even the pressure. Some folks have modified these - if you havent tried the search already - but I don't know if they were punching that broad a piece. Not that the thing doesn't have the force, but you'd need to span quite a bit wider than that thing is (front to back). Not to talk you into or out of anything, but if you are cutting straight lines, and only need 5 a day, I'd just use a long straight edge and a knife. Now, if you have other things to blank out ...

Thank you. Finally, someone else who isn't afraid to say it. I've bought Tandy leather. And I've bought "B" grade HO from SLC (well, 'she' did). Some of the Springfield leather was actually pretty nice. Some of it, not so much. Yet, all marched "B".

Hmmm.. I'm not trying to talk anybody into anything here. Just one more cynical thought (or maybe just realistic). I've heard people say they charge more becuase they dont have a machine and therefore "have to" hand sew. True, it WILL take longer. But, say I'm applying for a job. It pays what it pays. The "boss' isn't going to hear how I should be paid more becuase I dont have a car, and thus have to walk to and from work, which will take me an hour a day (or 3 times that if you're in St. Paul). Oh, yeah, and the Picasso -- no row of people lined up to make another one just like it. Thus, in demand.

Got it. Raymond called a bit ago (friendly fella, too).

Agreed.

Keep in mind, people largely don't care HOW you got the item the way you did. You might find the occasional munkey (yeah, deliberate) wiling to pay $100 for a 'guitar strap', which is nothing more than a colored piece of leather stitched around the edges. MOST people are a little smarter than that, I think. Long speeches about how you "hand-sewed" it or "hand-painted" are meaningless if it looks and performs like a $39 off the shelfy. So, how many hours it takes it irrelevant. Cyber doesn't like that some would "undervalue" other's work. Probably some truth to that. Sometimes I get people saying "I could do that myself", and I reply "Yes, yes you can" -- before leaving. The reverse is also true, though. IF you already had the materials out on the bench, it would take like minutes to dye that strap, and then a few minutes to glue and line it, and then a few more minutes to stitch the edge. Not including dry time, there's a whoppin half hour to the mailbox. BUT, hand stitch it and you are no longer talking about a few minutes. BUT, the strap is not then WORTH MORE. It's still a solid color strap with stitched edges. If the leather is the same quality, and the stitching is well done, sems like these two should cost the same. All of that to say this ... I think lots of people remember that old tv commercial ...'If you can't TELL the difference, then why PAY the difference". So perhaps the question is - what can you do that the next guy can't (or wont). Where in MN? Just around the corner from me?

Somebody wants a 'bucket' for a revolver. But wants it on a straight belt, and butt of gun at or just below belt line. Now, is it just me, or is that gun gonna "flop" all over the place?

http://www.toolexperts.com/hole-punch-set-leather-sheet-metal-gasket.html?gclid=CMP1uc2ZqLoCFSgSMwodO3AAdg This just one that comes up in a search. There are a bunch of em out there.

No phone number on their site? I filled out the "request" - really hoping I don't wait days for someone to call and tell me they don't have it!

Sweet, thanks! See there .. get away from the gun leather for a couple of decades and everything changes