JLSleather

I don't fault a guy for ASKING, and people are used to seeing "buy one, get one 25% off" (or something like that). But YOU set your pricing. I think your mistake - if there was one - was "explaining". I have been known to charge what some don't want to pay. AND I have GIVEN AWAY work I had a lot of time in. But in both cases, I figured 'my work, my choice', and do not offer "explanation'.

I'm not much on using "paint", though I have dabbed a bit of acrylic here 'n' there on rare ocassion. As a rule, strictly dye around here with the infrequent bit of [penetrating] stain. But the "fade" or "sunburst" is simple enough... can be done with "traditional" brush, sponge, airbrush, cloth, whatever. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OMVHrTPf1AQ

hand cramps sounds like a knife that is either too short or too small in diameter. If cramps in your hand aren't normal for you, try adjusting the knife longer, or either increase the diameter of your knife or try one larger in diameter. Because some smart mouth more interested in arguing than knowing will be here in a minute to say HOW THE !@!# do you make the diameter bigger?@#!! ---- it's called a SLEEVE

I'm not actually complaining about the knife.. it's prolly fine. But no better than others I have which cost about 1/3 the price.

on a more positive note, this new samsung note9 is almost TOO fancy

Aw, shucks This great lookin' work right here is YERS!

suit yourself -- no matter to me But if not-good reviews aren't "appropriate", then no review is valid.

RIght. IF I wouldn't spend MY money on it, then I certainly wouldn't spend YOURS on it. No trouble.. got a new phone up and working now, I'll just call in the morning. A bit arrogant that there's nothing on there site about how to do returns ...

I don't emboss -- just aint got much use for it myself. I have done it - back in the 80's - and did own that stohlman book about plugs n such. STILL, I can recognize skills even though it "aint my thing", and your depiction looks quite good. Er ya fixinta color it? Cuz I'd really like to see that! NICE WORK! True. I got a buddy who is an AVID (all the time) runner. He always says 'if you want to be good at running two miles, you have to practice running FIVE"

I just received a barry king 1/2" swivel knife and straight blade. Was sent to me by another fella what works with leather (I'll let him chime in if he wants his name used here). NOT that I don't appreciate the thought (unless, or course, the thought was that my carving needs some help ), but at $70 I'm gonna say this knife is overpriced about triple. Doesn't seem to be any nicer than my $20 knives from S-T leather. Well, it's brass (or maybe bronze), so it may be more corrosion-resistant than my steel barrel ones. So maybe just DOUBLE overpriced. Machining looks good, but nothing a first year machinist student couldn't have done. Or if it's already programmed in the (CNC) controller, my SISTER could stand there and watch it spit out. Some of their geometric stamps look pretty good (from pics - I don't have any of them here), but if this knife is characteristic of the quality I can expect, maybe I won't try the stamps after all... My phone died and the wife isn't back with the replacement just yet, or I'd call and find out if I can just return this myself from here and have em refund HIS card billing.

Simple airbrush work, OR these days, you could likely PRINT that directly onto the leather.

Uhhh... that what I dun sayd.

You are not factoring in the PRESSURE behind the sprayed dye. Shoot a gun next to something. "tiny particles" (in the form of powder and packing) will actually EMBED in the material. That's an extreme example, but the principle is the same. More pressure, deeper drive. (in fact, that's true of ANYthing).

Must be the size of the package -- and then the next ones aren't much at all. I have an order from recently where 3 backs (sides minus bellies) shipped for $38.29 - PA to MN.

If it's NOT 'pasted', how would you tell it was split? WEAVER once sent me leather DAMAGED on teh back from splitting .. looked like the blade was BOUNCING (back looked like those serrations on the road to warn you of an upcoming stop. But not from W/C. Ever.

"Stiffener" or "reinforcement" panel largely just 'for pretty'. Pretty STORY, to be precise. Years back, somebody told a story about how "beneficial" that was to have another layer on the front. And then a few thousand people copied that - to the extent it became fairly common. When I put out a pattern, I generally include one simply because some people look for one. And hopefully it adds to the look of the finished rig, not take attention away from the rig. Problem is, those "pancake" holsters rely on tension of the belt for retention of the gun, so if there's no "reinforcement" of the back, then it collapses anyway (from the back). Better solution is to make the holster on a curve, much like what he has done here --- front piece longer than the back piece. And if you want to further firm it up, try two layers of 4 oz leather instead of a single layer of 8 oz. Note -- Wickett & Craig sells pre-dyed skirting leather in roughly this color, which they call 'chestnut'. All you have to dye is is the edges (and please, inside the slots -- don't be lazy ). They will split this leather to the thickness you want - no extra charge. It can be stamped, tooled, dyed, and oiled as "usual" - so if you're doing a lot of "saddle tan", might save some time and effort. Here's a piece shown stitched with natural color thread.

I like it No stitch at top of stiffener? Oversight or design?

http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/pattern-making/leather-pattern-notebook-layout/ http://www.jlsleather.com/diy/other-diy/

AutoCad? So that would be a revolved surface then?

Already there - though not in teh same place (sold that one, too). Now I can jump in the car and be bothering my nieces in about 15 minutes

Yeah, uh.. I don't see anything like that, at least in teh free version. But I'm not tlaking about individual buttons, either. I mean I have two "draw" menus, and two "modify" and two "snap" ...

Don't know the "cutting speed", but I've seen ppl on this forum going on about a 2" diameter burnisher running at 3600 rpm, which I have always thought was WAY too fast. I get very nice edges running a stick less than 1"diameter (effective dia. down in the groove closer to 1/2" / 13mm) in a drill press at about 500 rpm. Honestly, I think some people just like to have more tools, necessary or not. If you understand "cutting speed", you likely don't have any trouble making your own "blueprint".

Too many Democrats Oh, and the methamphetamine runners and shootings could be a consideration. Not so much in Sartell, but it wasn't far enough away from Minneapolis, where apparently calling police to report a crime can get you shot. By the police you called. https://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/minnesota-officer-involved-justine-damond-s-death-can-t-handle-n907036

Just a thought out loud here .... you guys know that you can buy 1 1/4 - 1 3/8" diameter oak dowels for a few bucks, right? Building materials stores (menards, lowes, etc) call them closet rods.

I downloaded the 'trial' version of this - and I WAS able to make a pattern with it. Since I'm familiar with several CAD programs and I already had the measurements of the gun, it didn't take very long to "transfer" it to this software. Except for some reason I have double menus (?#@!), it seems to work pretty well. Don't see any way to eliminate ONE set of the duplicate command buttons (TWO "draw line", TWO "draw ellipse" , etc.)