Gregg From Keystone Sewing

Just some notes on this machine and needles...we normally sell this machine type with either a system 1000H or 6X3. Standard machine from the factory has 9/16" presser foot lift, and most often we convert this machine to 1" of presser foot lift by cutting and welding parts, including cutting away part of the frame of the machine arm. Also common was the now discontinued system 5X15 as well. This machine originally from the factory uses a 7X1, still available from NM120~250 and can be used. This does need does not have a scarf, or cutout for the hook point where the 794 (AKA 7X3) does have a scarf. The 794 has a pretty good range of available sizes points and finishes where the 7X1 does not. In other words...keep using the 794!!! Don't want to be confusing, but as you can see over the many years this machine has been in service since the 1930s people have used various needles for different reasons to keep this machine up and running for their applications.

I'm assuming that that the hook's timing didn't stand a chance against the power of the speed reducer. I can't find the DDL-5550 but I have a link that should work for a Juki DDL-8700 CLICK HERE. Hook timing, needle distance to hook point, and needle bar height adjustments are all in there.

Don't mess with the old motor. This can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing. And I would recommend a clutch motor 3/4 Horse Power. Usually 1725RPM, but I've seen 3450RPM as well. I'd go with the 1725RPM. Servo is not going to give you the low end torque that your machine needs.

If you are using up to a V69 thread and happy with the performance of a Juki DDL-5550N, and you are trying to bang out these dog collars...a full function under underbed trimmer machine may be in order. A new Juki with auto presser foot lift under bed trimmer needle positioner automatic back tack and servo motor than can be programmed for certain repetitive functions with great control. A machine like that cannot do anything more or less than your current machine, but has what would be called labor saving devices and in the case of dog collars can really do a lot to move you forward at really an economical price. Many folks here on leather worker may explain that you need to go big as in speed reducers and such, but the correct machine is really what you are after. And by the way never get rid of your Juki DDL-5550N. It's the best back up machine you can get no matter what motor is on there.

YouTube link for video that I wanted to share. I waned to share this video on Youtube of a guy making a replacement pulley from stock aluminum. I know some people here may enjoy this type of thing like I did.

Learned two things here; Singer has a synchronized binder machine. Second, they have a brochure in Spanish for a machine from that era. Never seen that either. 108W20,W21 SPAINSH.pdf

Usually these machines are a copy of Mitsubishi, Seiko, or Juki. I can't find anything from anyone on this machine.

On most industrial sewing machines the solenoid is actuated with a 24 volt DC signal. On some motors that have a control box there are features for input and output options that can widely vary. Typically, these motors are electronically controlled with the use of a digital input. Rule of thumb, chances are if you have to ask, no, your motor probably does not have a 24V DC output for presser foot lift. Or the machine would have it. Or it's broken. Just kidding here. If you made it this far, and the machine does in fact offer auto foot lift, most often they are going to have a pretty user friendly way to do it. One of the most common options for foot lift can run off of the foot treadle with a heel back on the motor control foot treadle, instead of a more common toe down, or forward. Many people prefer this setup. Also, input buttons can be mounted almost anywhere. In this case here you are asking about a switch mounted under the table top close to where a normal knee lifter presser pad would be. The electronic ones can be adjusted higher or lower and to a comfortable distance when operating the foot treadle. The nice thing about this is that you do not have to move the knee lifter very far, just enough to activate the short stroke of switch button. And you can get full presser foot clearance, or lift from the machine, by specifications, every time. Another nice way to do this setup is with an extra foot pedal for the foot lift. Again, using only a short stroke to activate the foot pedal. Some like it to the right or the left of the sewing machine's foot treadle. Hope this helps.

This is great, very practical to sewing machines, even even just as interesting to me is calculation for a third pulley such as a speed reducer.

I've seen handwheel, balance wheel, and pulley all being used for the same thing. The only technical term that can be a variance is handwheel vs a balance wheel. The balance wheel has a counter weight or material cut away to prevent the machine from bouncing as it operates where a hand wheel does not. Other than that, I'm sure there are some more technical specific terms used out there for this stuff. In my world, if you can differentiate between the machine hand wheel and the motor drive pulley, we're good.

That Efka looks old, maybe too old to service. What's the control box model number? You should make sure you can get this service and support for this motor before diving in. Could be 110V as well, for sure.

I have limited information from this thread, but from what I read, the 1st thing I would be concerned about is a very very good Efka motor on a very good LU-1510-7 machine? Juki from the factory uses a proprietary motor, and control box like an SC-510. That said, it's 100% possible that someone hooked up an Efka motor and control box that can do needle positioning, presser foot lift, underbed trimmer, input buttons, anything the Juki can do the Efka can do. And in some cases the Efka may have more torque. Most Efkas are Single Phase 220V, the newer ones anyway.

When you say fur, are you looking at a Bonis type machine?

Most of the servo motors with control boxes fire off 24VDC signals for things like presser foot lift, back tack, among other things.

That's a nice machine you got there, good luck.

Efka DC1550AB321 (Only in 220V single phase) or Mitsubishi XLG-554-10Y. Solenoids for air are going to be required as well. This sewing machine setup is not for the faint of heart, and requires extensive setup to get this project up and running.

I know this machine well. Made in Japan, by Seiko Sewing Machine Co., Ltd. What's the serial Number? Also, for dust, use if you can compressed air, and then oil with stainless sewing oil.

Concept Setup efka dc1550aB321 durkopp adler model 366 Hope you enjoy, maybe a little technical for some to follow for seven minutes, thanks so much for watching. A lot of work went into this for sure. 1080P Available within settings, clear video of control panel gauges buttons presser foot roller

Quick story before I get to some work here. We had a customer from Guatemala who came in, asked for a rebuilt Singer 20U (Japanese made, one of the good ones). He was specific that the knee presser worked with the zig zag bight or width as stated, and that we setup the machine to very very fast for this model. I really didn't know if he was a serious customer or if he even knew what he was doing. I was busy and didn't feel like setting up a machine specific for someone who was not a serious buyer. Boy was I wrong. When he came in to test the machine setup as we had it, I was still very skeptical. Until he sat down and started sewing. He produced this beautiful two color embroidery by hand without even a hoop. Clearly in under one minute. I still show this to people, and use it as an example of how not to ever underestimate what someone can do. ***I was reading through, Singer 20U has an embroidery plate where you remove the feed dog and presser foot. Many of these Singer 20U models and aftermarket machine came with these as an accessory.

UWE did it again this video is fantastic.

Good looking machine, and it does appear to be a discontinued part number from Durkopp Adler.

I believe that this is a Pfaff Eco 45. Russian made, Pfaff was NEVER able to obtain parts. EVER. Many of the parts are hand fitted. Oddball presser feet. Pfaff was embarrassed when they offered this machine for a short period of time and unable to provide ANY parts. The factory had a short run and closed. My father has one in his basement working. We can't sell a machine like this that we cannot in anyway support. Don't bother calling Pfaff for anything to do with this machine, you'll waste your time.

Sounds like your better off with a top bottom feed if you can find one.

Very nice, good job.