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I don't know a whole lot about what goes into making leather armor, but I can imagine it takes plenty of time, effort and creativity. Absolutely incredible work. This stuff could easily be in a Lord of the Rings movie -- it's as good as any costume designer in Hollywood is making IMO... -Alex

Welcome.... and very nice work! Alex

Azmal, here are two related posts. Perhaps this information can help you figure out the solution: http://www.leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=707 http://www.leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=282 Personally, I don't dye the inside of leather items... I leave the insides of belts and wristbands natural. However, after seeing some of your work, I can see how a two-tone effect would be less desirable on black armor. Hope this helps! -Alex

W, I haven't tried the black dye yet, but I used the next darkest dye (Dark Coco Brown), and rub-off was virtually non-existent when dry. Alex

Glad to have you here! Alex

John, you might be surprised how many future seats that one sells. One benefit of keeping an example of your work is that you have something to show in the flesh (so to speak ) when someone asks about your leatherwork. Plus, those "first" projects, whether a wallet or a motorcycle seat, are special and deserve to be enjoyed! So have fun with this one! Best, -Alex

Azmal, First of all, welcome to Leatherworker.net. Regarding a heavier and more durable mallet, I'd suggest you try Hide Crafter. On page 40 of their catalog, they have Garland poly mallets. I purchased the 14 oz. model from a distributor, and it's wonderful -- a good bit heavier than what Tandy offers. And the 19 oz. is a brute, carrying most of its weight in the head. Best of all, these will last forever and cost less than $20. I really like the one I have. Good luck, -Alex

The smilies of Leatherworker.net wish you a happy birthday! :hug:

Art, you might want to try the new Eco-Flo All-In-One if you weren't satisfied with the older Tandy product. I've tried the new All-In-One in Desert Tan, Fudge Brown and Primrose Red, and I've found they're easy to apply and produce really attractive colors. Alex

Amazing! I've never seen anything like that done in leather... Great job! Alex

John, don't be disappointed -- the carving looks great to me (but keep in mind I'm a non-carver). Really like the color and the grommets were a nice touch. Thanks for posting your pics -- that's a really nice seat! Alex

Really glad you weren't hurt, Peter... You must have a guardian angel looking out for you! I don't use any power tools when working with leather, so my mishaps are usually limited to something minor like pricking a finger. But I've had some more serious wounds caused by belt sanders, etc., so I know what you're talking about when you say how lucky you feel! Alex

Love those snakes -- I really do! I just saw your Mother Goose spur straps, as well, so I've gotta ask: What inspires your designs? They're very original! Alex

Love 'em. Definitely a departure from the normal western floral motifs, and very creative! Alex

You may not be at your goal yet, Peter, but it sounds like you have a good start *plus* a detailed action plan for getting where you need to be. Kudos to you for thinking that out, and thanks for sharing it with the rest of us. Lots of wisdom in your words there. Regards, -Alex

Well said on all points, Art. Plus, all the Tandy stores I've dealt with have always had exceptional customer service. Alex

Thanks, Kate. Let us know how the color holds up in the sun. BTW, I've been using these dyes for a few weeks now, and I have a couple of observations: The colors are not quite as vivid as those of spirit dyes. In my experience, it's best to apply these when the leather is completely dry, since wet leather seemed to act as a bit of a resist. Although they won't rub off when dry, they are a bit sensitive when wet -- applying a coat of Lexol and wiping off when still wet will remove some color. Same goes for Satin Shene. So you have to be gentle when conditioning and finishing. On a related note, I actually prefer the All-In-One Stain and Finish over the straight leather dye. It goes on easier, provides a bit of antique contrast, and leaves a really nice mellow finish. Plus, the colors are as vivid as spirit dyes. I'm finishing up a couple of projects using All-In-One, and I'll be sure to post some pics soon. -Alex

Thanks for the leads and the advice, fellas. Best, -Alex

I like the standard heel-bar buckles that Tandy carries, but I'd like to find a supplier that carries a much wider variety of shapes and styles, most especially some buckles that are up-scale looking and would look good on a belt made for a woman. Does anyone have any recommendations? (I'm just a hobbyist, so please don't suggest wholesale-only companies like Ohio Travel Bag). Thanks in advance, -Alex

Very nice! Thanks for sharing both the "before" and "after" pics! Regards, -Alex

I'm not running a leather business, but I'd like to share my two cents anyway if folks here will indulge me. I personally think that until leather reaches the level of a fully accepted craft medium (like clay, glass, metal, fiber and wood), then the work is going to be generally considered "gear" and not "art," and the former just isn't going to pay as well as the latter. I believe leatherworkers should join their state craft guilds (even if they're the only leatherworker belonging to the guild), and they should also produce at least a few decorative and expressive pieces a year (for example, murals or masks) to engage folks who are interested in art (and not necessarily just horse gear, holsters and motorcycles). I'd love to see leatherworkers be able to easily command prices in the thousands just like the major ceramics and glass artists do, but we've got to work on being considered "artists." Alex

Wow. Impeccable work. p.s. I also like the idea of starting one "Show Off" thread and adding to it over time. Bright idea!

Johanna, I agree 100% with all the points you bring up in your post. And they're all reasons why Leatherworker.net is so important to the leathercraft community. In the absence of classes and other educational opportunities, this site is the next best thing. Speaking of which, thanks to everyone who contributed recent tutorials. I know these take time and effort to create, and they're much appreciated! -Alex

Dan, As you mentioned, there's good information in this thread on the same topic. I personally prefer a heavier poly mallet, but I'm sure there are plenty of folks here who like rawhide ones, or even prefer mauls to mallets. I guess my first question would be, are you dissatisfied in some way with your current mallet? There's no reason to change if you aren't. I started off with a lighter poly mallet and changed to a 14 oz. model when I needed more force to drive punches through heavy leather. I don't know the answer to your question about why use a maul instead of a mallet. I like a mallet's flat face, and it seems to me that a maul would be hard to use. Maybe a maul user could add his or her two cents on the virtues of this tool???? -Alex

Nice work! Welcome aboard! Regards, -Alex