Northmount

Moved to Leather Sewing Machines

Looks good to me Stewart.

Here is the Tandy doc. Leather Splitter Tandy.pdf I think I saw instructions for a very similar splitter by Bruce Jonson, either here or on his website.

@TheFatBob moved your post to leather sewing machines.

Probably hotter in the sun if you remove the 'furry' stuff. The furry stuff would act as insulation since it would trap air, same as most other insulations work. Since much of the top of my head is mostly bald, my leather hat becomes very hot to wear in the sun. That bit of insulation I used to have made a lot of difference.

I assume that this is only in the USA, not Europe, etc.? Don't forget this is a global forum.

Easy on the neatsfoot oil. Too much and it will become a soppy mess. Add light coats, let soak in for 12 to 24 hours before adding another coat. There are several posts here about having saturated leather and the person wanting to know how to remove the excess oil. You can treat both sides of the leather. It will look blotchy, but will even out as you let it soak in for a few hours. Use pure NFO, not NFO compound.

@Noydini Please post photos here in the future. Third party hosting often results in the pictures disappearing and renders the thread useless for future reference. Third party hosts change policies, users delete photos from their account or close the account, etc. I have downloaded your photos and pasted them into your post.

Also parts were available for a straight stitch needle plate and feed dog. I picked a set up about 5 years ago.

@AbelJojua Moved your post to leather sewing machines.

Looks a little too wet. It loses definition and doesn't hold the shape of the tool. Try a trial with a couple stamps. When you moisten the leather (case) stamp a single impression, wait 1 minute, then stamp again, continue until the leather is getting too dry to make a good impression. Then you will be ale to see the difference, what the burnished colour looks like, and the definition, and hoe many minutes it took to get there. Not all pieces of leather will behave exactly the same. Different tanages, thicknesses, etc. But it will give you a better measure of how wet/dry it needs to be. This was my biggest mistake when I started many years ago.

@TheMackinaw Moved your post to leather sewing machines. Lots of visitors in this part of the forum Welcome to LW.

You are doing OK here. You can drop several pictures on a post. Then click the plus (+) sign to put them where your cursor is in the text of the post. Thanks for making the effort.

@johnnydb Please post your photos here. Third party hosting often results in bad links due to people changing permissions, moving files, deleting their account, host going out of business or changing policies, etc. When this happens, the posts in the thread lose relevance and become useless to future readers. If you are having trouble posting here, reduce the size of your photos to 800x600 or 1024x768 pixels and you can post maybe hundreds of photos in a single post. See this thread for help if you need it. Lots of options https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/15122-how-to-post-pictures-on-lw/?do=findComment&comment=551171

Even with the bushings dripping with oil (really over oiled) I've seen several seized up. Only happens with bushings. Never on ball bearings. For my own, I switched to a sealed ball bearing motor and never had any problems with it. Main reason for switching was to change to a 2 speed motor so I could run low speed all the time to maintain circulation through the whole house and run at high speed when heating or a/c kicked in. Ran for years that way, then installed a high efficiency furnace.