Northmount

Look at http://leatherworker...one#entry203688 for some ideas Here is one for a BB Torch 9800 ripped apart. BB Case 9800.pdf This pdf has not been scaled, so if you turn off scale to fit, it will print actual size. I suspect you may have trouble reading some of my notes. My writing has become very shakey some days over the past 5 years. The OEM BB Case was sewen on a serger likely so has almost zero seam allowance. So probably add at least 1/8" all the way around. For thicker leather, use more. The front and back magnets turn off the screen when in the pouch. Sensor is in the back of the BB. So with a magnet on the front and back, it doesn't matter whcih way it goes in the case. Cut the strap extra long. Depends on your leather thickness as to how long it actually needs to be. Thicker the leather, longer strap required. The microfibre lining is not shown in the photo. You could use any soft leather with the suede (flesh) side against the phone. Kind of wipes it like the microfibre stuff does. Dimensions for BBs are available on their site, for the Torch 9800, see http://ca.blackberry...-specifications If the case is made too snug, the little switches on the sides of the phone will be activated when the BB is forced into the case. That will cause software/firmware problems and can cause the BB to hang. Then the battery has to be removed, so the phone can reboot. Your client won't like that (even if it is for your phone). Tom

Variable speed drills are cheap and readily available, already have a chuck, and only need a simple shop made fixture to hold them. Agree with st8. Don't need to over think the problem. Also don't need to thread the motor shaft. Should be lots available for real cheap at garage sales and flea markets. Tom

Search for drill chuck or Jacobs chuck. Be careful of the mount you select. Threaded are available in 3/8" x 24 tpi or 1/2" x 20 tpi. So you will need to use a die to thread the shaft. Note that this is fine thread, not coarse thread. A couple links: http://www.jacobschuck.com/images/products/JC-003%20200%20Series%20No%20Crops.pdf http://www.sears.com/jacobs-3-8-in-keyless-replacement-drill-chuck-with-3-8/p-00920970000P Lots of replacement chucks around with key or keyless. Take one off a junked drill that's no good any more. Some are locked to the drill shaft with a screw from the inside. Open the jaws up all the way so you can see the bottom. The screw (if there is one) will have left hand thread instead of the normal right hand thread, so it doesn't come loose when you reverse the drill. Tom

I have seen people use either oil or water on carborundum stones. Most use oil. Which ever you use, don't swap back and forth between oil and water. Waterstones are a soft stone (usually) and use only water. They need to be soaked first before being used. They also need to be flattened periodically. Carborundum can be used dry. But you will get a smoother more polished surface on your blade with oil. Sort of makes a thin grinding compound. Tom

Great detail. Like the cow's whiskers!

Do a search for clicker, die, press, jack. Try the search in different combinations. Lots of recent discussions. Tom

Depends on the size of drill press Depends on the size of the drill press. Also the drill press table will be in your road. So a cradle for your electric or cordless drill would be much easier to work around. A cradle is easy to make from a few scraps of wood and can be clamped or bolted to the bench. If you have an old drill you don't use much since you got a cordless, you could permanently attach the drill to the cradle with a long hose clamp. Tom

Here are a couple for you to salivate over: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=34075&hl=%2Brope+%2Bcan http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=30770&hl=+rope%20+can#entry192532 Tom

The appearance of this one is much improved in my opinion. You could sew around the bottom edge of the front flap (below the snap) as well. Looks like it was missed. (Looks lonesome) Practise sure makes a difference doesn't it. CTG

The metal bookshelf type frame material looks a little on the weak side, even though is is under tension rather than bending. Here is one that I think will stand up to heavier usage and still be low cost to build. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22164&hl=%2Bholster+%2Bpress+%2Bjpg CTG

I likle my Techsew 2700. Does a great job. You can add a flat table adaptor to it so you have both the flat bed and cylinder arm. If you are going to work on the heavier end like 2 layers of 8 oz, I would add a speed reduction pulley as well. CTG

TurtleFeathers.net will get you farther than .com will. http://turtlefeather...ngelus/dye.html for dyes.

Carving gouges are better, shorter length, 4 to 8" long roughly. Lathe gouges (except for miniature work) are 24" or more long. Carving gouges should be a little lower priced too. CTG Here are a couple links to carving gouges: http://www.woodcarverswarehouse.com/_e/dept/04-001-001/Flexcut_Palm_Tools.htm http://www.chippingaway.com/Search.htm?q=gouge

See also http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42706#entry267682 CTG

Read the whole thread. Alternate site, currency conversion. Alternate woodcarving tools. CTG

Bags and hand pump http://www.roarockit.com/proddetail.php?prod=01301 so nice and quiet! CTG

They will work great on inside corners too! Didn't need to buy my big punches! CTG

If you are handling just a small amount of dye at a time, a simple fan in the window sucking the fumes out will not get to an explosive mixture. Also if you pick a fan with no starting winding (no electrical switch contacts inside the motor), there will be no sparks to initiate combustion. So most box fans and window fans that start slowly and take time to get up to speed are none sparking. If you are handling large amounts of dye, or spraying, two windows would be nice, blow air in one and let if find its way out the other. Different inflamable fluids have differing lower explosive limits (LEL). You can look up and compare alcohols, naphtha, diesel fuel, gasoline, natural gas, propane, butane and see what the LEL for each happens to be. It will give you some idea of how much risk there is. Also look at the flash temperature to see what temperature a hot surface has to get to before it will cause ignition. Like if you have an electric heater in the room!. One of the worst fluids for a wide range from LEL to higher explosive limit is hydrogen. It is explosive from 5% to 98% in air. I have seen a 99% hydrogen atmosphere in a compressor house. I asked the supervisor if he wanted me to shut of the power to the building remotely at its source. He said no, we'll just ventillate it. The fire crew brought in water powered fans and placed in the doorways. They brought the concentration down from 99% to next to zero, safely passing through that explosive zone. Then they couldn't find the source of the leak! As you are doing, it is important to consider the the risks of explosion when handling inflammable fluids. I know of many instances where serious explosions and fires have occurred due to cleaning paint brushes near an open flame, trying to repair leaking gas tanks in an enclosed space (garage), etc. Buying drum dyed makes a lot of sense! CTG

Here is another interesting link. Shows you can get by without buying a lot of expensive tools http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42981&hl= until you know what you really want. There are many things you can do to work around not having exactly the right tool. CTG

You can get hole punches of any size for inside corners. Just bought a 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and 1". For outside corners, take a look at http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=42883&hl= CTG

I kind of thought there was some sarcasm here considereing your past work and non-Snap-On tools. But I just couldn't let it go by. I still use a lot of different and cheaper tools in the several hobbies I work with. Some tools obviously have to be replaced, and you soon find those ones. Like a $30 impact wrench that won't undo wheel nuts! CTG

Take a look at http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=40461&hl=starting#entry251728 and follow some of the threads. The advanced search function can be your new best friend too. CTG

Flour and sugar sacks that are sewen closed are done with a chain stitch. As a kid, I used to collect the string from them for other projects. If you start on the right end, you can "unzip" the whole thing with one good pull. So like on boots and shoes, the needle/thread has to be sized tight in the leather, and bees wax, etc. to lock it in place. And layers are usually glued, so if the surface thread is damaged, it doesn't fall apart. Like TwinOaks says, no machine does saddle stitch or anything close to it. CTG

Tools and toys don't make the man! Some tools definitely make the job easier, and that is one of the reasons we buy them, often starting out with the cheap ones until we see their short lifespan or other problems. What makes the man is what you do with them. And as you have done with other work, how you have done work-arounds to get the job done satisfactorily. Some people buy tools and toys just to show them off. Others really use them. CTG

Try Denise http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showuser=5669 Or their business site http://www.rodnikkel.com/content/index.php/contact-us/ CTG