Aven

It'll work and I think rather nicely, but be mindful of the allowance the book has you build into your pattern of the wool. The book suggests an ideal nap thickness is 15mm. You might want to mock up the first pattern in craft foam and see how it fits you.

I just love your style.

Your bag is looking good so far. I'm looking forward to seeing it finished. Thanks for the pictures. It helps me to understand how a bag is constructed.

CowboyBob is who you are looking for.

Silverd, any chance you have a manual for the 5 in 1? I've look high and low for one and have come up empty handed.

I have arthritis in both thumbs, in the bottom joint. I can't grip things like I used to anymore. I've found a few things that help with hand sewing. Using a stitching clamp to hold it so I don't have to grip the work piece makes a big difference for me. I found a leather thimble years ago that I wear on my thumb. It has a metal disk that you push against. Mine is made out of 2+ oz soft leather. It's three times as thick as the one I found at JoAnn's. If you search for coin thimble you'll find something like it. The closest I see is Clover Coin thimble, but it's easy to think the leather is thick looking at the picture, but it could be an illusion. But if you pick up one of the cheapies, you'll have the coin insert and a pattern to make your own. I found an awl on ebay that is a long slender one. The point is fine and the taper isn't aggressive. I use it to stretch open the holes I've punched with a stitching chisel. Once it's opened up a bit, the needle slides through and they close back up afterwards. Tools help, but they can do only so much. I found that cutting out wheat, potatoes and tomatoes (night shades) makes a big difference in how much my hands hurt or don't hurt. If I have a couple slices of bread or white potatoes at dinner, I know my hands will ache the next day. This is my trigger. Yours may be different.

I'm just getting my machines up and running. Honestly, thread sizes (not as much) needle sizes, thread types and manufactures are all a mystery to me right now, but please do keep me posted. Send a PM if I've gone quiet. I've got a might bit on my plate right now, now that the weather has turned nice.

Looks great. I really like the style. The only critique I'll offer is to suggest you put a flap over the zippers. They look like they could be in just the right place to be annoying on bare skin.

The copper rivet looks like it was chucked into a hand drill and polished.

Those turned out nicely, especially for a first attempt. What was the machine and thread combo that didn't work out for you? Just curious because I'm still hand sewing and haven't ordered machine thread yet.

As far as I can tell, there isn't that much stress, unless the base is warped. The gap isn't as big as I've pictured. It fits together rather nicely. There a few crumbs missing. My guess is someone dropped it on the point. So welding it is. Now to find someone who can do it and doesn't want an arm and a leg. I don't want to spend more on the welding than I did for the sewing machine. Thanks for the input.

Those were way too big!

Thanks Tom. Much appreciated.

I don't know if I have something check that shouldn't be or don't have something checked, but I have immediate notification selected for all the threads I'm following, but the only time I'll get an email is when I'm quoted in someone's reply. Is there something else I need to toggle on/off so I get the email notifications when someone responds to a thread I'm following?

I'll borrow a camera this weekend and post a picture. Ouch! That looked like an ugly break. Nice save.

Nice fix. I'm a fan of JB Weld, but I have never tried it on cast iron.

I have a 29k that the base broke at the hole for the wooden table top upright. Would JB Weld be a good choice to fix it? I don't think I'll ever make/use the table, but I'd still like to fix it.

Thank you so much! I appreciate you taking the time to write that all up. That answers a lot of my questions. I just wish there was a chart with the at least a couple of the last measurements. I am a huge fan of Lisa and her work. I know that doing the videos are a major pain and time sink for her, but they are invaluable to those of us who will never make it to Guthrie. Not all boot/shoe makers are willing to share, especially to the degree she does. Thanks again for sharing.

Was that with the Help:Choosing a Last $40 option? How did you make your pedigraph? Mind if I ask what size you normally wear and what size last you received?

Good to know. Thanks.

What's unclear? The guy didn't like the needle position servo. Found it too complicated for his tastes and is selling it for a third of new. I will agree the "!" for the hp isn't helpful, but if you are interested, ask.

The face on a cobbler's hammer is a bit domed and larger than a ball peen. The one I have is about an inch and 5/8 across. This allows you to hit the leather and not have the edge of the face dig in and leave a mark. You can get cobber hammer heads off of eBay for any where from $5 w/shipping to the seller is emotionally attached to it and won't part with it for less the $200. You can buy a French style hammer new for about $50. The other, less sexy style, about $30. But if you have a ball peen hammer head that is large enough and a belt sander, you can put a slight dome on it yourself.

You and me both.

Lisa Sorrell is carrying a smallish collection of lasts. She has cowboy boot lasts, ladies pumps and flats lasts, men's dress shoes, sandal lasts and athletic shoe lasts. They are reasonably priced at $85 a pair. You can buy them by the pair. You don't have to buy an entire run of a design. Next month I'm hoping to be able to order a pair of the athletic lasts to use for flat soled shoes. Heels in general mess with my back. The athletic last looks like it'll work for everyday style of shoes.