Aven

Books available from Tim Skyrme at shoemakingbook.com Bespoke Shoemaking, A Comprehensive Guide to Handmade Footwear * Simple Sandalmaking, Sandals Anyone Can Make Shoe and Boot Designing Manual * Step by Step Pattern Cutting Sole Press Patterns - not a book, but useful information none the less. * Also available from Walrusshoe.com

I agree it isn't a shoe making book per se, but it does a great job of breaking down inlays/overlays. I'd call it an advanced style technique book. Thanks for the link! Unfortunately my French is nonexistent so I'll have to stick with Saguto's translation.

I thought it would be good to gather up a list of shoe making books with authors and ISBNs. We can do this as a running list of books. M. De Garsault's 1776 Art of the Shoemaker translated by D.A. Saguto ISBN 978-0-89672-650-5 The Art of Leather Inlay and Overlay by Lisa Sorrell ISBN 978-0-7643-5121-1 Bespoke Shoemaking by Tim Skyrme ISBN 0-9802937-0-7 The Make-it-Yourself Shoebook by Christine Lewis Clark no ISBN Make Your Own Shoes by Mary Wales Loomis. Book is available from her website. The Art of Boot and Shoemaking, A Practial Handbook by John B. Leno ISBN 978-1-57898-972-0 Handmade Shoes for Men by Konemann ISBN 3-89508-928-1 Pattern Cutting, Step by Step Patterns for Footwear Edited by Frank Jones ISBN 978-0-9554086-0-1 Last Designing & Making Manual (DVD sold separately) by George Koleff no ISBN Available from walrusshoe.com and Tim Skryme Shoes for Free People by David & Inger Runk ISBN 0-913300-44-6 Stepping Through Time, Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Time until 1800 by Olaf Goubitz Available from Oxbow Books Make Your Own Medieval Clothing, Shoes of the High and Late Middle Ages by Stefan von der Heide ISBN 978-3-938922-25-5 Shoes and Pattens by Frances McGrew and Margrethe De Meergaard ISBN 978-1-84383-238-6 DVDs The Art of Shoemaking featuring Glen Leasure available from healthyhandmakeshores.com Make Your Own Scandianavian Turnshoe with Jason Hovatter available from laughingcrowe.com

I get that. Now's the time to gather while shipping isn't an issue and get the stuff you don't want to freeze in route, like glue. Walrusshoe.com has Tim's Bespoke Shoemaking. He also carries George Koleff's Shoe and Boot Designing Manual and his Last Designing and Making Manual with DVD. The Bespoke Shoemaking isn't really cheaper through Larry, but it might get to you quicker.

Thanks Wiz. Sounds like it would be an upgrade that I really don't need.

I have a 29K70 in relatively decent condition. After playing with it for a while I got to wondering would it be possible/would it worth moving the hand wheel from the side to the front of the machine?

Hey Jake, I'll second Jason's classes . I just took my third class with him this past weekend. This time it was the internal stitch down boot class. The same one as the DVD. He really does have a process that makes shoe/boot making approachable by anyone, even the complete novice. Sewing the upper to the sole can be hard on the hands, but it's doable. It's definitely worth the money to get the DVD when it comes out in July if you can't attend one of his classes. If you have a leather sewing machine, you might want to check out Healthy Handmade Shoes for their how-to DVDs. I learned a lot from them as well. Its not a totally different style of craft from Jason's. The upper construction is similar, but the designing/patterning is very different and of course closing is different, its a stitch down shoe. Jason's is totally custom made to your feet, Glen has a basic pattern that is used, (it comes in a range of sizes, you use the one closes to your size) and you fit that to your feet. In a nutshell, you have plenty of extra leather to trim off after you get it attached to the sole using your foot as the last. There are a couple of books out there that are from the '70s that might be worth tracking down. The one I can remember off the top of my head is Shoes for Free People by David Runk. The styling and construction is simple, kind of crude, but it'll give you the basics. And once you know the basics, you can refine them.

Nice start. I like the style. Looking forward to watching your progress.

Pictures please! If you can't get a hold of a copy, send me a PM.

Lasts seem to show up in sporadically on the Bay. When you find a last you think will work for you, ask them to measure it (length and width at the very least) to make sure that you're getting close to what you need. The less you have to modify, the better off you are. Walrusshoes.com and Lisa Sorrell Notions carry lasts.

SheltathaLore I'm impressed. I would never have thought to take Jason's style of shoe making and couple that with heels. I applaud your work so far and I'm looking forward to seeing the finished pair. You might want to check out Mary Loomis' book on shoe making. She decided to make her own shoes when she couldn't find what she wanted back in the 70's (?). She reversed engineered heels that she had and came up with a method that works and its pretty low tech. She uses a last of sorts, plaster of Paris casting of your feet to work on. It a bit different from what you're doing, but I'm sure that she covers some of the issues you are working through. Well, I'm pretty sure she does. Its been a while since I read it. King County Library does have a copy if you want to check it out.

I'm headed to Portland tomorrow after work. I'm spending four days in Jason's Internal Stitch Down Boot class. This will be my third class I've taken with him. Each class was so worth the time and the money. I'm so looking forward to the boot class and the DVD when it comes out in a few months. I have no qualms what so ever recommending his classes and/or the DVDs. I have the turn shoe DVD and it really is like taking his class. He's a great down to earth teacher who has been sewing shoes together for a long time. Another source for books is Walrusshoe.com. They carry a few different books: Shoe & Boot Designing Manual, Bespoke Shoemaking, How to Make Ugg Boots, The Manual, and Last Designing & Making Manual. The Last book is on my list of books I want/need. They also carry a few lasts. I don't know anything about their lasts other than what the website says.

That turned out great. Your brother has got to be super happy with it. Great job on the holster and being a big brother.

I agree Handmade Shoes for Men is more of a coffee table book than not. I got a bit out if it, but I admit it wasn't much. Having looked at your stuff for a while now, as long as your last is a good fit to you and the style you're looking to make, I know that you'll get it figured out. Your lasts sound like they are loafers/deck shoes. They'll work, as long as you aren't going to put much of a heel (if any) on them. Last are really tricky to buy off ebay. If you think you found something that will work, ask them to measure it with a cloth tape, the length, the ball of the foot and the instep. That should let you know if it will work for you. You can build them up or carve them down only so much. And as far as I know (which I readily admit isn't very much), you can't mess with the heel height of a last. You pretty much have to use the heel height it was made to use. For what its worth, Jason is in the process of doing a video for his stitch down boots. You can see the trailer on Laughing Crowe, internal stitch down shoe class. He also did a video for his turn shoes that I think is really well done. Jason is a great teacher in person and it came though on the video as well. Calen did a great job shooting the first one, I don't expect anything less for this one. I believe the video will be done and ready to ship sometime in July.

The Bespoke Shoemaking is very informative, but it doesn't address patterning for boots. Tim has a pattern cutting book that has a derby boot pattern, as well as several other styles. If you are considering making more than one pair and plan on teaching yourself, the book will be indispensable. You might also want to add Handmade Shoes for Men to you library. It isn't a step by step how to book per se, but it does fill in a few tidbits that that the other two leave out. You don't have to work on a last. The shoes/boots made that way tend be a bit more refined than an unlasted shoe/boot, but that's more about aesthetics than fit and function. Check out Healthy Handmade Shoes DVD. It's five DVD's that walk you through the process of making an outstiched shoe using the foot as your last. He does use a sewing machine and a sander to make the shoes, but if you have more time than money for a sewing machine, you can sew them by hand, it's just going to take you a lot longer. If you would like to take a class, I would highly recommend Jason Hovatter's classes at Laughing Crowe. He does an internal stitch down boot and a chukka boot class. Classes are small so you get to see what he's doing and you don't get lost in a crowd. They are in Portland and most are 4 days long. I have been through two of his classes and will be going for a third in April. In the vein of Healthy Handmade shoes, see if you can find a copy of Shoes for Free People by David and Inger Runk. It's a 1976 DIY book that approaches making shoes/boots like the HHS DVD does. They are all unlasted and are sewn by hand.

Let me just say WOW! I'm beyond impressed. If that is truly your third bag, then you are seriously talented and a quick study. Your bags are going to be a smashing success. Please considering making them in other colors, you know, for those of us who can't keep white clean.

Mocivnik, check out Goods Japan leather tools offerings. I have purchased a few of their pricking irons and their smallest edger. I've been very happy with all of them. I can't imagine that their punches wouldn't be the same quality.

I love it. I'm not a fan of pink for the most part, but I love that color. It turned out awesome. I wouldn't have liked it of it was "professional". It would have looked factory made. One glance and you can tell it was make with skill and love. Great job Dad. Don't forget to post the sheath and backpack when you get them done.

The Step by Step has a pull on boot, but its more of a Wellington, as I know it, than a cowboy boot. You might be better served with a different source. Check out Lisa Sorrell's Notions and Findings site. She has a notebook/DVD combo. Definitely more spendy, but cheaper than a one on one class and comparing the two books is like comparing apples and oranges. Lisa is all about the cowboy boots.

I ordered mine from Tim. Don't know what the exchange rate is right now, but last year I paid about 15 ~ 20 % less than asking price because of the exchange rate. It took about 3 ~ 4 weeks for the books to arrive. I ordered three of his books, one at a time. It was an easy transaction.

I've not dealt with the Buckle Guy a lot, but I have never had an issue with an order, be it customer service or quality.

Thank you! I have had no luck trying to track one down on the net. Much appreciated.

Dave84, did you ever receive the larger manual? I just picked up an Adler 167 and I'm not finding anything other than the 12 multilingual user manual and the one in German. Und mein Deutsch ist schrecklich. I hoping you can point me towards a better manual that's in English.

Weaver Leather also offers a military and first responder discount. http://www.weaverleathersupply.com/learn/military-discount

Jim, thank you for taking the time to put this together and for sharing it. I really appreciate you letting me, a nooby, in on your trade secrets.