Sanch

The lace cutter I spoke of looks like this one I fabricated it my self there are a few changes made so as to not infringe on the original it can use both injector blades and box cutter blades. It's just not to friendly when it comes to having to maneuver a double shoulder to cut a belt.

So I know there's allot of choices but I'm looking for a fairly priced draw gauge does anyone own a Heritage and how is their quality compairitivly speaking say when put up against Tandy,Osborne etcetera. I currently have a lace cutter that is fine for lace but want to start doing belts,also I don't want a wooden strap cutter like the "original" thanks

who owns one? who prefers wood over metal why? why not? name brand doesn't matter even home made, show pix if possible and pix of results of using a wood one vs. metal or plastic....thanks for any input.!! Stealf

guessing you're talking about the ferrule on the far left awl it strengthens the place where the haft and the blade join. the antler awl is made out of a tap used for making threads in metal, the portion that cuts the threads is like a screw I used that end to "fasten" it into the hole I drilled into the antler, after this I just called it done it hasn't come out during use yet. for the other two I drilled a undersized hole (smaller than the blade) added a few drops of super glue and set the blade ala AL STOHLMAN method.

love them all

Cost in equipment alone would scare anyone under a rock the jigs look fairly simple but dimensions need to be had for any machist to be able to replicate $$$$$$$$!

I cant seem to find the thread that has the beautifully engraved edge burnisher made out of some exotic wood any help please!? almost sure it was made by Ed "Bearman"?? Thanks in advance!

thanks for the kind words!

Monica,thanks the brass just happened to be in the scrap bin in the machine shop so I used it rather than SS. Thanks again for the kind words.

Thanks,now I have to start using them I've tested both and they feel WAY better than the cheap Tandy and the Tandy ergo grip so I'm happy.

Had to add another picture

I was able to salvage my failed attempt!I was also able to make it adjustable 1/2" it's not a lot but it is just right for me.

Jeremy, thanks for the offer but I think I am going to convert it to a regular swivel saddle style knife come Monday.

Michelle, thanks for the kind words one of the main reasons I decided to make the knife was the knurled barrel on my cheapo irritates, plus the larger diameter gives plenty to hold .

think of it this way if your hitting your tools hard enough to cause damage 1. you have very poor quality tools 2. you will most likely go through what ever thickness leather your tooling unless its saddle skirting 3. polyurethane will "bounce" more than rawhide, Delrin and or wood....more bounce=more work for your arm=less time tooling, plus more chances of injury IMHO. also if your dead set on polyurethane as a maul/mallet why not just find a skate shop and buy some already cut and drilled skateboard/longboard wheels? Whew! that was more than 2 cents worth!

the tool aconstruction posted looks like a chunk of steel with holes drilled at different depths and diameters? tool steel maybe? hmm? annealed coppe wirer (copper wire heated red hot then water quenched to soften) only what about the washers? you'd still need to source them...sounds like enough trouble to just stay with speedy rivets.....

I have airbrushed that same exact shamrock on a HD Sportster gas tank! many many years ago....

I would use acetal (Delrin) not urethane..just my HO.

I made another one but put the swivel in the blade holder instead of the saddle and the thing was a failure the bearing needs to be a thrust bearing so it can rotate freely...shame really cause it was a comfortable size and shape....oh well back to work

1k,6kand 12k then white compound for swivel knife blades same for head knife blades except green compound finish....

1000 grit, 6000 grit, then finish on 12000 grit all Japanese water stones leftover from my straight razor making days.

Has any one on the forum attempted to make or made their own edgers Bissonnette or other wise? If so can you please post a PIC of the culprit! Also for those that use them (Bissonnette Edgers) can you please post a close up image of the business end?!? Thank you in advance!! Stealf.

well I tried a "new" acrylic finish tonight I recently ran out of mop and glo 50/50 water mix so I went on the hunt for it (mop and glo) after trying to remember if it was always the "lemon fresh" citrus smelling stuff or just "regular unleaded" so I stuck my sniffer in a few bottles of the stuff and found not only a lemony fresh smell but a distinct smell of ammonia hmm that's the cleaning part of mop and glo that's what has been "leaching my dyes even after an over night dry time...well anyway I found some Dollar General floor finish (label has nothing about cleaning properties) didn't smell like ammonia nor did it smell like fruit....decided to pass on it though...so after just tossing the towel and deciding to PM a certain man who hooked me on the mop and glo (you know who you are hehe!) I said hmm acrylic floor stuff leme see, ....scratching and thinking here...looking under kitchen sink..this bottle says ACRYLIC finish and says no cleaners lets eggspierment alittle....distilled water check..PLEDGE with FUTURE floor finish check empty bottle check....mix 50/50 good to go scrap piece of freshly dyed leather (USMC BLACK cause the mop and glo leaches the tar out of it) three light coats later BAM!!! looks fine smells like leather flexes no white cracking...and best of all NO leaching...im sold and hope I can still find this formula.on shelves... so why floor polish and not a purpose made product you may ask? well why not its worked well and its different..also this "new stuff" is CLEAR not milky, does not smell like AMMONIA and I used a brush(hairy stick) with it... smooth finish and no streaks...the finish is the same nice warm glow I love from the smelly stuff...score..hope this helps someone...Stealf.

Langston, the artwork and carving on the second seat are fabulous not to mention the dye and lacing if this is truly your second seat you are fast tracking my friend! In your first post you mentioned a "stitcher" what so ever do you mean? please tell us you don't want a speedy stitcher....also another question what have you been producing before the seats because that is not the work of a novice?! anyway awesome stuff!

I have worked will many different thicknesses and combinations of varying thickness and only recently did I try making the holes in the leather before stitching but it was from necessity