Tree Reaper

Can you leave the bolt handle out of the case or does it have to be enclosed?

I would go with 8-10 oz. Latigo leather. A sewing awl would most likely work well for you. You could also add rivets if you wanted extra holding strength. Kevin

I just received my foam from knife kits and it's softer than the 40 durometer. I'm looking forward to testing it.

I'd go to a better quality #24 for the 1/4"barrel. The 20's are too flimsy for me. You can trim the twenty's down if you're stuck and don't require too many. They list a 3/16 barrel here http://www.spaenaur.com/pdf/sectionM/M39.pdf

Mike; Check this out, you might see something different. https://www.google.c...biw=884&bih=482 You can step the strap down and use a buckle the same width as the larger part of the strap.

For another $25 you can get one ready to go if it fits your machine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Table-Top-206RB-226R-LU-563-DNU-1541S-111W-155-3115-/300889790286?pt=BI_Textile_Equipment&hash=item460e6dd74e What they call 1 inch is usually dressed out to 3/4, not very strong. If I was making that I would go with laminated hardwood, starting with 2 inch lumber and planing it to 1 1/2 once laminated. You would need the tools, saws,,jointer, router, clamps and then you have to get it planed. The cast iron pipe and fittings would be much better than the copper , you would be able to adjust the legs for an uneven floor surface.

Bigger is better, you lose space when you start adding chucks, stamps and bases to stamp on. A shop press is a better choice for a little more money.

Thanks for the comment! I was able to use some scrap leather and wanted to sew some loops with my machine, needed a case for a metric and SAE set of nut drivers so the opportunity was there.

I had the ram drilled and threaded to accept a drill chuck. For the stamp use a piece of plate steel the same size or slightly smaller on top of the stamp. It will help distribute the pressure over a larger area.

The deer hide is usually more grainy and different in colour, veg on the left, deer on the right.

Thank you both, the letter set is the cheapy 1/4 inch set from Tandy.

Here's a case for those nut drivers you buy that don't come with a case.

I have a 10 ton that would sit on a bench. It has a pressure gauge but I seldom use more than 3 tons for molding, cutting may take 5 or less, I haven't any cutting dies for it yet. Stamping is a ton and a half.

That's good, If it begins to smell you can always store it in a zip lock bag with baking soda changing the baking soda out after a few weeks will help.

A coil spring might work. (die spring)

I've used neatsfoot oil and then sprinkled the baking soda, both on the flesh side. Leave it on for a few days.

I don't have any experience with stingray but if it was tanned it shouldn't smell. It will likely smell again when it gets damp. Baking soda might help to draw some of the smell out. Kevin

http://www.ebay.com/itm/locking-carabiner-80-mm-for-accessories-coyote-brown-rothco-214-/360659887327?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53f90124df

I can see it being done with spent .22 casings, they are the same approximate size of a tubular rivet. The same peening tool could be used.

Hi Bob; This is how it's illustrated...

For sure look on u tube. This is how I would start a pattern for a pancake. Fold a piece of paper down the middle and scribe a line on it. Place the gun on the paper with the center line running down the center of the slide or barrel. Trace a 3/4 outline around the gun using a compass. Draw the design YOU want on the paper with pencil and use a marker on the finished design. Cut out the paper and lay it on the gun for a fit and make necessary adjustments on another new sheet of paper if required.

If you use the stamps for stamping metal you could probably get by using two rubber O-rings to hold them together. Kevin.

Hi Bob; That didn't register with me when I read it, it's been a while since I made a pancake but I'll try and put something together tomorrow to give you a better idea. Kevin

Stohlman suggests 3/4" outside the gun and that's a good starting point. Don't forget the thickness of the welt will add space to the fit. What I do with the paper is fold it in half and then trace the gun plus 3/4". Put the gun inside the folded paper to see how it fits. The paper will give you a good idea how close you are to what's needed. When you cut the trace mark and open up the paper you can then transfer that to the cardboard. Check out the gun holster forum and search for patterns to see what the other makers are doing. 8-10oz. is a good weight for a holster. Kevin

Bob; I usually start with a paper trace of the gun until I get the fit I want, trace that onto cardboard and then trace that onto the leather. Stitch the holster and welt, soak it in warm water for a few seconds, put the gun in a plastic bag, put it in the holster and form it around the gun. If you plan on making several holsters get a machine press, some foam and blue guns. Boiling water will damage the leather. Kevin