Tree Reaper

Hi Phil; Yes the leather is soaked under water until saturated then placed over the mold and worked into the cavity with a rounded end of a wooden dowel to get the shape started. I wrote the company that makes Great Stuff and asked them what the lbs./cu. ft. is of their product so maybe we can get a comparison of other products on the market. I would guess that you would require at least two to three times the force of Great Stuff in order to mold 5 oz. leather into a 1 inch deep pouch.

I have their specs but I can't find the specs on Great Stuff to compare lbs./ft pressure.

I found the foam only works with small projects using thinner 2-3 oz. leathers. It doesn't have enough pressure for molding thick leather. I tried the large gap foam hoping to get more expansion from it but didn't get any better results. There might be another product out there but insulating foam just isn't strong enough. The advantage is you can fill shallow, odd shapes with the foam, it worked really well on the pick case. I'm back to using wood and now wood or clay to match the mold and getting great results, a huge improvement over tacking leather around a wooden block and trying to form it. Kevin.

A drum sander works.

Anyone know a supplier for hammer hangers etc. for tool pouches? Thanks. Kevin.

Wiz, when I'm in mid-Michigan I'll be taking you out for dinner. Kevin

Forstner bits work really well for that.

You would probably not want some acid tans against your sweating skin as they will burn the skin and cause a rash.

That's fantastic Wiz, another wealth of information for the vault. Thanks for all your help. Kevin

Thanks Cheryl, that is a bit case for screw driver bits. It has a spring clip in the back to clip on a pocket or belt.

Just get on it. I made cases for a few of my tools to get familiar with it. You'll make mistakes and learn from them, I still do. To lock the stitch I start about four stitches down and reverse to the edge then switch to the forward stage and stitch over the first four then keep going. That's it, class dismissed. Kevin

I use it, it works for me. I top it off with trag and wax.

I think they want you using carnauba creme with that dye according to their book of instructions. I usually use super shene but spray it on.

Call the manufacturer.

The hides are only of value between November and March in North America. Summer coats are pretty thin and damaged.

http://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Head-For-Nylon-Hammer/dp/B005KL3UB0

Try a marine supplier. http://www.iboats.com/Marine-Snap-Hooks/dm/view_id.257726

Ok, thanks Bob. My problem is I don't know how to solve a problem when I run across one so I rely on the guys here and when I can't get it resolved here I'll be sure to give you a call. The more I get to sew with it the more familiar I"ll be with it. Kevin.

Thank you, I called Bob this morning and he has one on the way but I appreciate the help and assistance. I wasn't aware these plates were even available until the guys here made mention of it. Kevin.

Will do, thanks guys. Kevin

Can I leave the feed dog in place and just use the stirrup plate? I am assuming the pressure foot tension must be reduced as well?

I do, now that you mention it Ferg. Just looked at it and I think it will work with the cases I'm producing and I don't think I'll have to remove the feed dog. I'll have to get a flat plate for it if I can.

I have these two plates marked stirrup and holster but I don't know how they work with stirrups or holsters. They both have a raised surface where the needle slot is, I might be able to use the stirrup plate or is there something better?

I'm having a problem with my leather projects falling down into the hole on the plate. Is the only solution leaving a wider lip on the project then trimming it off after? Thanks. Kevin.

You should have zero clearance where the blade runs through the table otherwise the leather can get pulled down inside the table causing the blade to break or the leather damaged or both.